A team effort
Placing an emphasis on the relationships between people is the invitation launched by Identità Golose.
According to Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni, creators of the international food convention held in March in Milan, while the Internet has “expanded” our world, allowing the sharing of knowledge, techniques, and recipes, relationships with colleagues, customers and suppliers and a sense of togetherness are values that we need to rediscover.
“The Human Factor” was the theme of Identità Golose, a topic discussed by more than 120 invited speakers including chefs, pas- try chefs, gelato artisans and hospitality professionals.
New this year was a doubling of the focus on pastry, Dossier Dessert being joined by a day of contemporary Italian Pastry, and the debut of Identità Cocktail dedicated to mixed drinks.
Sorbets made with green sauce, horseradish and Barolo vinegar prepared by Stefano Guizzetti accompany the classic dish of boiled meat (tongue, veal head, cotechino) proposed by chef Giovanni Ricciardella.
Thanks to Dario Rossi, the simple dish created by Roman farmers called panzanella is transformed into an elaborate Italian flag made with home-baked bread, cherry tomato gelato, and basil essence foam.
With Giovanna Musumeci and Gianfrancesco Cutelli the cocoa bean becomes the main character of a story that begins with a metate grinding stone to produce bars leads and leads to a cold chocolate drink following the historical recipe of Michele Marcega and today’s chocolate sorbet made with almond water.
AND GELATO TOO
In the past few editions gelato has found its place among the dishes of haute cuisine.
Thanks to the in- creasingly intense dialog with chefs and the courage to innovate of gelato artisans, the “frozen sweet” has lent itself to various interpretations as illustrated by the experiences presented at the Identità di Gelato session.
Perfect with succulent meat dishes or traditional recipes, a fascinating ingredient with an ancient history, the result of intense local research, the original interpretation of a personal vision of the future, an innovative salty dessert for the menu of a restaurant. Gelato can be all this.
The Stigliano pistachio and the Cuneo hazelnut from local producers are the result of Osvaldo Palermo’s research into gelato offering a truly rich flavour.
The memory of a dinner prepared at Ratanà restaurant near the Vertical Forest residential towers in Milan is the starting point for Paolo Brunelli’s “Vertical Forest on a Plate,” a futuristic cucumber and mascarpone gelato with parsley meringues and arctic char eggs.
Finally, the trio of taleggio, gorgonzola and fossa cheese combined respectively with strawberry jam, celery and chocolate developed by Moreno Cedroni for his restaurant’s menu.
From production to the display case
In some cases daring ideas, some suitable for the shop display case.
Beyond these experiments, Identità di Gelato focused its attention on the relationship between the gelato artisan and the serving staff, a key point for the success of a shop.
It is important to transfer knowledge of ingredients and production techniques to those in contact with the public.
The consumer should be given more information to make it clear that artisanal gelato is the result of experience, stories, local communities, and ingredients.