Atelier of stellar delicacies

by Federica Serva - PuntoITALY No40
ph Lido Vannucchi
The Laboratorio Cannavacciuolo, wanted by the chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, is directed by Kabir Godi, who unites organization with experimentation to make high-quality desserts and gelato.

Babà with Limoncello, Hazelnut Caprese Cake, vegan Christmas star cake with chocolate and pears, Gianduja Colomba cake, pistachio spreadable cream, biscuits, even plum and Armagnac gelato. These are just a few of the delicacies that are created at the Laboratorio Cannavacciuolo located in Suno (Novara, Italy). In 2019, a centre dedicated to creating sweet and savoury creations opened not far from the wonderful Villa Crespi on Lake Orta in the municipality of Cinzia Primatesta where Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s professional and life adventure began, a place where he took them to the utmost level of hospitality (Relais & Chateaux 5 stars) and of foodservice (*** Michelin). It is led by Kabir Godi, former pastry chef of Villa Crespi and then head of the Cannavacciuolo Bakery shop in Novara.

Artisanal inspiration

With advanced equipment in a one-thousand square metre space, Kabir Godi and his staff, well organized in shifts, bake fragrant croissants and Viennoiserie for breakfast, airy leavened products for the holidays, delicious biscuits; they create inviting pralines and gelato based on the season; they produce luxurious specialties such as Cheesecake, Pastiera, and Casatiello using jar cooking. All these preparations are executed with much respect for the raw ingredients and with great attention to quality, giving life to unique products that reflect Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s idea of pastry arts, that is, excellence with an artisanal soul. “As sales increased – highlights Kabir Godi – and so did the number of establishments to be served, the pastry brigade has expanded. Today we are eighteen people, which are joined by more seasonal staff during the high seasons such as Christmas and Easter”.

Driven by growth

“I was contacted in 2015 – Kabir Godi recounts – to start gaining experience in the Cannavacciuolo group. Since production had grown, the kitchen in Novara was no longer sufficient to meet all the demand. Hence the move to a former ravioli factory in Suno, capable of better serving not only the group’s facilities in the area, including Villa Crespi; Antonino, Il Banco di Cannavacciuolo in Vicolungo by Orta San Giulio; and Laqua by the Lake in Pettenasco, in addition to E-commerce sales”.

Also sold online

Part of the production is destined for e-commerce. “Business – explains Kabir Godi – after the boom in 2021-22 when there were the Covid lockdowns, has stabilized. Shipments take place throughout Italy. The holiday leavened-products, that is Panettone and Colomba-cake, are the most popular, followed by Easter Eggs, jar-cooked desserts, biscuits”. The offering also includes books by Antonino Cannavacciuolo as well as branded food products, such as pasta and olive oil. Special attention is given to the packaging to ensure the integrity of the products.

Between cream-based gelato and sorbets

The kitchen produces between 100 and 150 kilos of gelato a day. Antonino Cream gelato, Chocolate and Tonka beans, Piedmont Hazelnuts, Plum and Armagnac, Pistachio, Mango, lime and basil sorbet are the iconic flavours that never change. “We always have a few special flavours – adds Kabir Godi – which we periodically offer, or we recreate in a new light, then we evaluate whether to permanently include them in the assortment based on customer feedback. A few examples include the Mascarpone and fig leaf or the Avocado and lemon grass sorbet”.

The gamble on gelato

As spring arrives, the production of gelato and sorbet commences. “The kitchen – says the pastry chef – started producing gelato in 2019, on the occasion of the first store opening of the Antonino, Il Banco di Cannavacciuolo format, located at the Vicolungo outlet mall. Next to the offering of packaged products and a line of savoury items inspired by Neapolitan traditions, the decision was made to add one display case with fresh pastries and one with gelato. The decision stems from the awareness that, especially during the spring and summer months, gelato could represent one of the flagship products offered”. The gelato and sorbet, prepared daily, are also delivered in carapina pans to the Orta San Giulio and Pettenasco establishments, delighting customers with both classic and special flavours.

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