PUNTOITALY No29 - January 2022

of authentic 80Aromitaliareachesanimpressivemilestone in its history woven with tradition, research and dedication to true Italian gelato. Aromitalia’s history is studded with abundant passion for one of Italy’s products of excellence: artisanal gelato. Its product catalogue is rich with creations that blend tradition with innovation, reflecting the family’s vocation that has been handed down from generation to generation. Since 1942, the company has offered quality ingredients designed to give concrete support to the daily work of gelato chefs. The company offers to its partners all the support and experience it has gained over the past 80 years. The pursuit of excellence Aromitalia’s commitment is constantly aimed at the selection of ingredients. Only genuine products of the utmost quality are used. The classic recipes reflect tradition and aim to reach a perfect balance between the different ingredients that are mixed together. These classic products are continuously joined by innovative ones, obtained through the pursuit of excellence in ingredients and their flavour pairings. The stages of its history It all begins in the early years of the last century, when, under the name of Norzi SA, the company starts producing aromas and essences for the confectionary industry. In 1942, Guglielmo Ferrero takes over the company and changes its name to Nectar. years

craftsmanship Thanks to the acquisition of Gillio company in 1956, production is expanded to include the preparation of professional-use ingredients for gelato. The company name becomes Aromitalia. Two years later, production of DoppiaPanna Olandese 50 starts, one of the first base products introduced on the market. This is followed by the first flavoured pastes for fruit and classic creams; then in 1959, the DoppiaBase Frutta 50 debuts. The years go by quickly, marked by the constant growth of the company. In 1967, Guglielmo’s son, Cristiano, joins the company as head of warehouse and shipping, then he moves to the R&D department. In 1972, Gruppo Essenziero Italiano (G.E.I. Spa) is founded, which actualizes Guglielmo Ferrero’s dream, that is to create a complete company where both Aromitalia and Nectar brands have space to grow together. 1976 marks an authentic revolution in the gelato market, with the launch of the DoppiaPanna Olandese 100, the first base with a 100-gr dosage. Three years later, the DoppiaBase Frutta 100 base is presented, which definitively resolves consistency problems with sorbets. These are very active years, even regarding commercial expansion. Gelimport is born in Germany, Aromitalia Iberica is founded in Spain, which are joined by Aromitalia SA in Argentina, Aromitalia do Brasil and Natural It Mexico SA in the following decades. A leap in history brings us to the new Millennium. In 2008, the company moves to the headquarters in Settimo Torinese, with a production site of over 27 thousand square meters of which 11 thousand are covered. Three years later, the factory reaches energetic self-sufficiency thanks to solar panels. In the meantime, the opening of branches all around the world continues non-stop: Romania, Hungary, Poland, Ecuador, Turkey, USA, up until the opening a branch in 2018 in China, followed by Russia, Peru and Colombia. In 2017, a new plant to produce chocolate from cocoa beans is constructed and the Gioari brand is born. In the meanwhile, the history of Aromitalia continues in the name of the most authentic craftsmanship.

CONTENTS Editorial 15 Contributors 17 Antonio Mezzalira, a chef in love with gelato! 22 Citrus variation 28 PuntoItaly wire 32 From land to sea 38 Back on stage 42 Sweet orange fennel 48 Marinated salmon with seasoned raw vegetable gelato 50 Creative correlations 52 Like impalpable petals 58 Sold out 62 The Companies 66 The Shows 180 22 42 52 58 32 13

EDITORIAL We had left each other talking about complicated times and economies suffering due to a pandemic that shows no signs of leaving us. Today, we are in a difficult winter again, with many unknowns, especially regarding the events that characterize our industry at an international level. We are preparing for Sigep in Rimini, an event of great strategic importance for the entire worldwide dessert industry. We will be there, equipped to follow the safety rules, but nonetheless we will be there, together with hundreds of exhibitors ready to give momentum to new products. As I am writing this editorial, Italy, although with the necessary prudence, is running better than everyone in Europe, with a GDP higher than expected and well above the average of the old continent. Perhaps the very strong vaccination campaign put in place during all of these months is helping us, even though I believe that the entrepreneurial spirit, the tenacity and the imagination that characterize “Made in Italy” are what always puts us one step ahead, regardless of the place or the circumstance. All we can do is hang in there and hope to see each other soon, in some corner of the world! Italy is running, catch us if you can! 15

CONTRIBUTORS Sergio Colalucci Master gelato maker Davide Pini Reporter Riccardo Magni Master gelato maker Mattia Spadaro Master chef Alice Vignoli Master gelato maker Pierpaolo Magni Master gelato maker Federica Serva Reporter Antonio Mezzalira Master gelato maker Beppo Tonon Master gelato maker puntoITALY Milan – Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Three-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 11 - No. 29 - January 2022 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca Patrick Hopkins Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv srl - Milano Editrade srl – Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - 20133 Milan, I Tel. +39 02 70004960 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Pentragraf Bernate Ticino (Milan, I) All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. 17

The market of semi-finished products for gelato andpastry nowhas a newstrategic asset D ecember 10, 2021 represents a historic date both for ILLVA SARONNO HOLDING and for the industry of semi-finished products for gelato, preparations for pastry, bakery products and service products for gelato. Precisely on this date, THE NEW STRATEGIC ASSET OF ILLVA GROUP is born: Disaronno Ingredients. Lead by CEO Aldino Marzorati, the Holding group’s interest towards artisanal gelato is the result of the company’s passion for Made in Italy and products of excellence. This passion has led it to invest important resources into this strategic industry since the 1990s. Important leading companies in the industry such as Prodotti Stella S.p.a. and Montebianco S.p.a. were acquired thanks to an important commercial intuition and this allowed the group to obtain an important positioning within the

market of semi-finished products and ingredients. The new Disaronno Ingredients today represents A UNIQUE AND INTEGRATED REALITY capable of positioning itself on the market as a single representative for its numerous clients, while maintaining the particular characteristics of each brand that makes up the group: Anselmi, Prodotti Stella, Montebianco, Chiaravalle, Eurobisco and Selection. The decision to create a new business entity was born over the years, since players such as Montebianco and other industry companies have had to face increasingly difficult challenges in a mature market. This has happened especially in countries historically linked to artisanal gelato, such as Italy and Germany, where an increasingly less constant growth and a mostly limited market penetration have been recently faced, despite the average per capita consumption being among the highest. Disaronno Ingredients was thus born with the objective to present itself on the market with a different approach and with new strengths, focusing considerably on the integration between the different realities of the business group and on a project that aims at the rebirth of a GELATO & BAKERY industry in the name of excellence. Furthermore, with its strong “Brand Awareness”, the Disaronno brand allows the new company to increase its credibility and strength in a market increasingly full of threats, equipped with a greater visual identity especially at an institutional and corporate level. From a strategic point of view, the ambition of the project is to lead the new-born company in achieving a level of prestige within the relevant industry. To support this strategy, important and consolidated production sites both located in Italy are present: in the factory in Altavilla Vicentina (Vicenza), the production of GELATO ingredients has been consolidated through modern industry technologies, whereas in Chignolo Po (Pavia), a technological centre dedicated to the production of BAKERY products is located. Both production areas distinguish themselves by using a selection of the best ingredients along with the use of sophisticated tools and innovative technologies that conserve the pure organoleptic qualities of the ingredients. Numerous certifications have been obtained in terms of safety and quality: FSSC22000, ISO 9001, RSPO SG, KAT, UTZ MB, HALAL and KOSHER certifications.

Disaronno Ingredients presents itself on the market with a mission to be a true partner, capable of helping and supporting clients from a 360° perspective. This is in regards not only to ingredients and raw materials, but also in undertaking new business ideas and finding new solutions. This group has an international vocation with a constant presence abroad which aims to oversee the most strategically important outlet markets thanks to five operating branches around the world: USA, France, Poland, Germany and Spain. The values that guide this new company to face a booming market are united by the desire to excel in terms of passion, innovation, quality and competence. Excellence is and will always be synonymous with Disaronno Ingredients as it performs its numerous activities, while recognizing the specific peculiarities of the individual brands of the group and having a corporate target to be competitive in a strongly expanding market. In terms of product excellence and quality, one of the most important cornerstones of the new Disaronno Ingredients is the brand-new Institute of Food Science & Innovation: an innovative research and development centre established by Disaronno Ingredients. It is made up of a team of the highest level of researchers at an international level in the field of food technologies. Through the analysis of market trends, collaborations with prestigious universities, formulation of new ideas and new processing techniques, the objective is to research excellence, essential to offering its customers the best support possible. Research of multisensorial experiences with the development of creative knowledge along with the possibility to savour and analyse a good gelato with all 5 senses will be respectively the tasks of the Institute of Creation, Application and Education and of the Sensory Analysis Laboratories.

Equally central to ILLVA Group’s path of growth and development is the concept of Sustainability: starting from 2021, the company has set itself targets to integrate sustainability into its business strategies with the desire to create a new and modern company culture. Understanding the needs of the various stakeholders and redistribution of the value generated by them are only some of the various actions to be carried out so that the company can review its business model while looking to the future in the name of sustainability. Brands such as Anselmi, the first brand of a historic producer of gelato ingredients, and Montebianco and Prodotti Stella, both historic companies for their attention to innovation and for the constant consistency of their products, represent strategic assets for the ILLVA Group, and they are positioned to guarantee a solution for all the needs of professionals in the industry. Eurobisco, Chiaravalle and Selection supply complementary products for points of sale, and they complete the range of products offered, guaranteeing clients total support that is continuous throughout time. The future appears full of opportunities for growth and development today, and Disaronno Ingredients wants to undertake this process of spreading “Made in Italy” products around the world in the best of ways. Because at Disaronno Ingredients, we are PROUD AMBASSADORS OF ITALIAN EXCELLENCE IN THE WORLD.

INTERVIEW By Franco Cesare Puglisi MA ezzalira, a chef in love ntonio A smart experimenter of unusual ingredients and pairings, the Italian Maestro of gourmet gelato tells us his story. with gelato! 22

How would you define in a few words Antonio Mezzalira, a well-rounded chef with a passion for gelato? I’m stubborn, precise, an experimenter and fortunately very curious. I’m passionate about food, I always search for balance between different textures, temperatures and flavours, searching for a “Wow” effect in what I taste. What were the milestones of your career? I started at the very bottom of the ranks. To pay my way through hospitality school, I did a little bit of everything, from a barista to a fast-food employee. Everything is useful, but not really… Then, I finally reached a turning point, working in a laboratory with the Alajmo family, in an environment of continuous learning to love and respect ingredients. I discovered gelato in Trento, with the Chef Alfredo Chiocchetti (the first to obtain a Michelin star in the Trentino region). It was with him that I experimented my first gourmet gelato (an illumination). More than twenty years ago, the winning idea was not just to add an ingredient, for example gorgonzola cheese, in a base mix, but to start from the specific ingredient and develop the recipe around it, balancing it to obtain the final flavour together keeping in mind the other ingredients present on the plate. That process is now the norm. After studies, books, courses, further apprenticeships, sleepless nights and continuous experiments (which never end), I opened my gelato shop that made me grow, Golosi di Natura. The following year, I won the Coppa D’Oro award at Mig Longarone, considered one of the most important awards in the gelato world, with a Prosecco-flavoured gelato. In 2011, I discovered trehalose: some colleagues returning from Japan told me about a sugar that is not very sweet, which was used in gelato there because the Japanese people do not love overly sweet products. Here was the missing piece for gourmet gelato. In 2012, I started to collaborate with various companies, and I have the possibility to have two recurring columns on the magazines Punto.It and Punto.De, which allowed me to get to know the world of gelato chefs. In 2013/2014, I was nominated the director of Gelato Festival Italy-Europe. 23

INTERVIEW 2017 marks for me a very important year: I received the Treconi award from Gambero Rosso, which was confirmed again in the following years. In 2019, the “Gelato a Due” competition, of which I am the founder, together with Mig Longarone and the company Vecogel, is born. In this event, teams formed by a gelato chef and a chef de cuisine compete to present two dishes: one with gourmet gelato and one with a dessert gelato. In 2020, Gambero Rosso awarded me with the “Best Gourmet Gelato Chef of Italy” and the following year, I was an international judge at the Gelato Festival World Masters. I’d say it has been a good start… In these difficult times, what advice can you give to a gelato chef looking to grow his/her business? Definitely to invest in marketing and in training. Then, to search for ingredients that will always keep your customer’s curiosity alive. The clientele of a small town where I have my gelato shop is very different than that of a place with high foot traffic. In the first case, it is not a just a “hit and run” clientele, but rather a stationary one. It needs to be 24

constantly pampered for it to come back. The value of a client over time is fundamental throughout the years. Loyalty programs and continuous promotions help achieve this difficult goal. If, on the other hand, you have a shop in a location with high foot traffic, I would suggest transforming your shop with a set designer, to attract the attention of passers-by, offering a display case full of attractive options. Further advice: do not lock yourself up in your production laboratory; participate in events and competitions. They will make you grow (thanks to discussion) and maybe they will help make you get noticed, increasing the value of your brand. How much does the quality and originality of the “dessert course” as an option in a restaurant menu affect customers, in terms of prestige and appeal? Considering that gelato is finding more and more admirers in this realm. Dulcis in fundo: dinner was delicious, but the final dessert was not… unfortunately (or fortunately for us), customers remember 40% of the last course they tasted, and if it was not good, negative reviews start flowing. Freshly churned Italian gelato certainly helps chef create flavour combinations that are very tasty for the palate. Different textures and even temperatures are what can decree the success of a sweet dish. 25

INTERVIEW Artisanal gelato is living an incredibly positive moment, even with the forced limitations due to the pandemic. It remains a simple product that is affordable and is an excellent value for money. Do you agree with this assessment and what future do you foresee? Artisanal gelato wants to grow, and gelato chefs want to put on the same level as chefs de cuisine and pastry chefs. The biggest mistake that unites all gelato shops is having the same price for all flavours. This puts all the ingredients on the same level, and unfortunately, in the eye of the consumer, puts all of us on the same level. I think that everyone can agree on the fact that pistachios cost more than a lemon, and there is a difference between a pure pistachio and another pistachio that has been cut together with other products. But all the different flavours are sold at the same price, creating a sort of “boomerang” effect for the inexperienced customer who perhaps does not see the difference. 26

For many years now, I have been offering gelato with different prices, for example for the flavours with alcohol or for my gourmet flavours, and my customers understand the price difference due to the ingredients without commenting. It would be like charging the same price for a Margherita pizza made with the utmost quality products and with a long leavening time, and a low-level Margherita pizza: they have the same name, but they are two completely different products. Furthermore, we are craftsmen, and we are free to work as we see fit. I see a future in which great artisans can pave their own way with excellent products, at the right price, even in areas other their own “shop.” The greatest intuition of your professional career? Definitely the use of trehalose in gourmet gelato, to improve recipes that lacked something fundamental. The most significant mistake of your career? Trusting people too much. Unfortunately, I learned at my own expense from the Italian saying, “Trusting is good, but not trusting is better.” Not everyone is how you wish they were. What is the primary objective in Antonio Mezzalira’s future? To succeed in bringing gelato on par with the other culinary arts such as cuisine, pastry and chocolate. To ensure that gelato chefs are proud to be called such, and that they can be defined as Artisanal Maestros thanks to their preparation, and not just as a mere self-proclamation. I also have a dream on the back burner: to have a store in a place where I can express even more my passion. 27

RECIPES CITRUS VARIATION Refreshing, delicate and healthy: citrus-flavoured gelatos are a must-have item in any gelato shop all year round. With a pinch of creativity, they can be paired with unconventional ingredients, making the flavours even more appealing. For example, by adding meringue crumbs, butter biscuits or Kaffir lime powder (a fruit from Madagascar), you can obtain creamy gelatos with various flavour nuances that make them real delicacies. By Antonio Mezzalira 28

SURRIENTO (Sorrento lemon cream gelato with meringues) with cream base 100 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 470 g • cream with 35% fat content 125 g • skim milk powder 40 g • sucrose 105 g • dextrose 30 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 40 g • cream base 100 50 g • egg yolk 60 g • Sorrento lemon juice 80 g Total 1000 g INSTRUCTIONS Blend well all the ingredients except the lemon juice, and heat the mixture to 85°C. As the mix is cooling, when it reaches 4°C, add the lemon juice. To intensify the lemon flavour, grate in the zest of an untreated lemon with a microplane. Batch freeze and extract the gelato. Decorate the pan with baked meringues. Blast chill for five minutes then transfer to display case. BAKED MERINGUES INGREDIENTS: • pasteurized egg whites 200 g • sucrose 430 g Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks, adding the sugar in two batches. Pipe into disks or puffs. Bake at 90°C, with the valve open (or with a spoon propped to keep the oven door slightly open so that steam does not form inside) for four hours, or at 130°C for an hour and a half. with cream base 50 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 470 g • cream with 35% fat content 125 g • skim milk powder 40 g • sucrose 110 g • dextrose 40 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 50 g • cream base 50 25 g • egg yolk 60 g • Sorrento lemon juice 80 g Total 1000 g 29

RECIPES SWEET KAFFIR LIME (yogurt gelato with Madagascan Kaffir lime powder and white chocolate corn flakes) with cream base 50 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 75 g • cream with 35% fat content 165 g • skim milk powder 35 g • low-fat yogurt 500 g • sucrose 100 g • dextrose 70 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 20 g • cream base 50 35 g Total 1000 g Add 5 g of Kaffir lime powder and 1 g of citric acid for each kg. with cream base 100 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 75 g • cream with 35% fat content 165 g • skim milk powder 25 g • low-fat yogurt 500 g • sucrose 90 g • dextrose 60 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 15 g • cream base 100 70 g Total 1000 g Add 5 g of Kaffir lime powder and 1 g of citric acid for each kg. INSTRUCTIONS Mix thoroughly all ingredients except the Kaffir lime powder and the yogurt, then heat the mixture to 85°C. Add mixture to batch freezer and as it is cooling, when the mixture reaches a temperature under 30°C, add the yogurt that has been previously mixed with the Kaffir lime powder and the citric acid. Extract the gelato and place it in blast freezer for about ten minutes. After a day of resting at -18°/-20°C, mix in white chocolate corn flakes and transfer to display case set at -12°/-13°C. WHITE CHOCOLATE CORN FLAKES INGREDIENTS: • white chocolate 300 g • sunflower oil 50 g • corn flakes 400 g Slowly melt the chocolate together with the sunflower oil, using either the microwave or a bain-marie. In a bowl, mix it together with the cornflakes and transfer the mixture to a baking sheet that has been lined with baking paper. Transfer to blast chiller, then it can be mixed into gelato after having been broken into pieces. 30

CLEMENTINES (mandarin orange sorbet with cardamom and butter biscuits) with fruit base 100 INGREDIENTS: • mandarin orange juice 450 g • water 275 g • sucrose 95 g • dextrose 40 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 70 g • fruit base 100 70 g Total 1000 g Add 3 g of cardamom powder for each kg. INSTRUCTIONS Mix the base together with the sugars, then add the quantity of water indicated in the recipe, heating it previously. Blend well with an immersion blender. Then follow the instructions indicated on the technical sheet of the base product. When the mix has been cooled and is at a temperature of 4°C, add the mandarin orange juice and the cardamom powder, then blend well. Pour the mixture into the batch freezer. During the last phase of batch freezing, add the butter biscuits that have been broken into pieces. Extract the sorbet and transfer to blast freezer for five minutes. Decorate the pan with slices of mandarin oranges and butter biscuits. Display in showcase set at -11°/-12°C. BUTTER BISCUITS INGREDIENTS: • butter 180 g • sugar 120 g • salt 3 g • egg 100 g • flour 300 g • zest of one lemon Proceed as if making a shortcrust dough, then roll the dough out to a 3 mm thickness. Form the biscuits and place them on baking sheets. Brush with beaten egg and cover them with granulated sugar that has been mixed with the lemon zest. Bake at 180°C for 10 minutes. with fruit base 50 INGREDIENTS: • mandarin orange juice 450 g • water 275 g • sucrose 100 g • dextrose 50 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 80 g • fruit base 50 35 g • inulin 10 g Total 1000 g Add 3 g of cardamom powder for each kg. 31

FAIRS TOUR SIRHA Lyon (France), 23 - 27 September 580 days have passed since the last major international event where we were able to represent the voice of Italy: between Gulfood 2020 and Sirha 2021, there was only silence in the halls of exhibition centres around the world. That is, when they did not turn into battle scenes, fighting against the pandemBy Davide Pini PuntoItaly wire A chronicle of the trade fairs visited by puntoItaly during its travels abroad. A first-hand reportage of meetings, emotions, and experiences. ic that has conditioned the life of the entire planet. Even with evident signs of abnormal conditions while respecting all the correct safety protocols, it was still extremely pleasant to have personal dialogue with professionals from some of the industries most affected by the pandemic, and to try and throw around with them timid plans for future actions. 32

The general climate was extremely cordial; there was a desire to discuss and to taste attentively; much pleasure was had in simply exchanging glances: these are the emotions that characterized the five days of the event. The surprising appearance of the President of the French Republic Emmanuel Macron in the hallways of Sirha on the last day of the show, an event that happened for the first time in 40 years, to express the support of the authorities to the protagonists of the HoReCa world, represents the most significant representation of the desire to return to live the world “outside of the home.” Registered visitors were less than the past classic editions, but they still reached an important number. They were also attracted by the numerous events, 33

FAIRS TOUR one which saw the Italian Team triumph in a particularly exciting edition of the Pastry World Cup, and another which saw the French Davy Tissot achieve success in the prestigious Bocuse d’Or. LEVANTE PROF Bari (Italy), 26 - 29 September It was one of the first trade shows to open its doors after the forced closure of events throughout the world, so it was very exciting to pass through the turnstiles to the event. The numbers amply rewarded the organizers’ efforts, because in an area of nearly 18 thousand square meters, there was a real “crowd” of visitors, many of which were foreigners coming mostly from the Balkan Peninsula. It was understandable the general satisfaction of this week-long international exhibition specialized in the wheat supply chain (bakery, pastry, pizza and fresh pasta), gelato, beer, wine, café, restaurant, packing, hospitality, agri-food machineries and technologies. The 12th PuntoIT Trophy saw the participants try their hand at creating a speciality which followed the theme of “A gelato to be paired with panettone.” Winning first place was Maria Chiara Sanna with “Dositheo,” a cream gelato with vanilla beans, Dositheo passito (a sweet wine obtained with the drying of Cacchione and Malvasia Puntinata grapes on racks, with white vinification at a controlled temperature), and Malaga raisins soaked in the passito wine. Levante Prof also confirmed its role in training through masterclasses, laboratories, workshops and seminars on the world of agri-food and on quality professionalism in processing. In the meantime, organization of the eighth edition, scheduled for March 10-13, 2023, has already started. 34

HOSTMILANO Milan (Italy), 22 - 26 October Such a complete exhibition offer has never before been seen. The 42nd edition of HostMilano, organized simultaneously with Tuttofood, covered every aspect of the hospitality world: professional foodservice; bakery, pizza, pasta; coffee, tea, bar, coffee machines, vending machines, with Sic - Salone internazionale del caffè (International Coffee Fair); gelato, pastry; furnishings, technology, table. The support of the Italian Trade Agency and partnerships with industry associations made it possible to attract a highly specialized audience not only from main European countries but also from the United States, Canada, Russia and the Middle East. The scheduled events were over eight hundred, with a rich program of cooking demos, in-depths seminars and national and international competitions. The Smart Label - Host Innovation Award, an authentic international point of reference for innovation in the hospitality sector, awarded products from twenty-five companies, with a particular focus on sustainability. “Luxury Pastry in the World” by Iginio Massari was very popular, with the participation of leading names in the dessert world, who discussed emerging trends of high-end pastry. At Host, the finals of prestigious pastry awards were held: the Fipgc World Pastry Awards and The World Trophy of Professional Tiramisù Fipgc. The Japanese Yosuke Otsuka, Yusaku Shibata and Kazuhiro Nakayama won the best chocolate creation, the most beautiful composition in pastillage and the best sugar sculpture. The Italian Maria Concas won the award for the fourth category in the competition, Wedding Cakes. The competition dedicated to Tiramisu was won by the French Nabil Barina. 35

FAIRS TOUR SPECIALITY FOOD FESTIVAL Dubai (UAE), 7 - 9 November The stop in Dubai represented our return to an international exhibition outside of European borders, a fantastic milestone that we lived with great enthusiasm and particular attention, enjoying the satisfaction of being in business again while respecting all the health and bureaucratic procedures to guarantee and completely safe event. Winter in Dubai, if we can use this term for the most dry and pleasant period of the year in the United Arab Emirates, is the stage of one of the most delicate and significant events which marks a phase oriented at trying to emerge from the pandemic. With the long-awaited Expo, it wants to demonstrate its desire to move forward without fear. Many other events that take place during the 6 months of the Great Expo entered this backdrop, especially regarding the food world: Gulfood Manufacturing, Yummex and Speciality Food Festival. The latter is where the puntoItaly magazine returned to manning a stand in the heart of the exhibition halls after a few years, where we found a pleasant confirmation of the interest in our country’s agri-food offering. Even if visitors from parts of the world that are a higher health risk were missing, half of Dubai confirmed its inimitable ability to attract competent and interested professionals from all over the world, allowing the exhibitors present to have a very concrete, significant and current vision of the industry today. 36

MIG Longarone (Italy), 28 November - 1 December 2021 A total “green” look characterized the 61st edition of the Mostra Internazionale del Gelato of Longarone. The exhibition put the spotlight on companies that develop and build (and in some cases, patent) zero-impact gelato machines. In this context, the “Mig Green” award, aimed at those entities that have most distinguished themselves for their commitment to sustainability, went to Franco Cesare Puglisi, editor of our puntoItaly magazine. To him we owe the promotion of an engaging media campaign in favour of the sustainability of artisanal Italian gelato, with the support of prestigious national media and an expanded online network. As usual, there were numerous events that formed the backdrop of the exhibition. The second edition of the “Gelato a Due” competition affirmed the team formed by gelato chef Marco Reato and pastry chef Gianluca Campigotto, which won after a fierce international competition between eleven teams, coming also from Eastern Europe and Central America. An absolute novelty was the competition reserved for gelato chefs and dedicated to the realization of chocolate pralines. The initiative aimed to promote the diffusion and integration of the chocolate arts at artisanal gelato shops: a way to increase the product offer and remove the seasonality from the business. The winner of this first competition was Marco Battistuta. The 51st edition of the Coppa d’Oro concluded the Mig exhibition. The flavour of this year’s competition was lemon. And first place was taken by gelato chef Curzio Baraggi. The mission for the next edition of MIG? To become even more green! 37

RECIPES FROM LAND TO SEA By Alice Vignoli photos by Studio Phototecnica The aromas and delicate nuances of citrus fruits offer strong distinguishing flavours to two refreshing preparations than can enjoyed with a spoon. 38

CASSATA Suitable for... Single portions, cakes, loafs on a baking sheet Doses for two 16x8 cm loafs, h 8 cm SEMIFREDDO INGREDIENTS Fresh cream with 35% fat content 1000 g A Fresh sheep ricotta 400 g B Italian meringue 300 g C Candied fruit 200 g D Powdered sugar 50 g E Orange blossom flavouring 1 g F RECIPE AND CONSTRUCTION Prepare the mould by cutting a 16x8 cm rectangle of an almond-flavoured cake. Wet the cake with a non-flavoured sugar syrup. Protect the inner edge of the mould with an acetate cake collar. In the stand mixer, blend the ricotta, powdered sugar and orange blossom flavouring, then push mixture through a sieve. Delicately mix the meringue with the ricotta cream until an even mixture is obtained. In the stand mixer, whip the cream to soft peaks, and add to the rest of the mix, one spoon at a time to avoid deflation. Add the candied fruit. Portion the semifreddo mixture into the mould until it is filled completely. Place mould into blast freezer until completely hardened. SUMMARY Mix B + E + F. Add C to ricotta cream. Whip A and add to mixture. Add candied fruit. Fill mould and place in blast freezer. DECORATION Once the semifreddo is ready, remove from mould, form a loaf and place on top of a cake board. Decorate with pistachio-flavoured almond paste. STORAGE If the decorated product has been blast-frozen, it can be stored in the display case at -19°C for two weeks. If it has been blast-frozen to its core (for example: at -32°C for 1 hour) it can be stored in a storage freezer set at -19°C for three months. ON THE MARKET The whipped product A can be substituted with a semifreddo base product with a neutral flavour. The ricotta and candied fruit can be substituted with a cassata flavour paste for gelato, following the amounts indicated by the producer. Cassata semifreddo Themed decorations (ribbon) made with pistachio-flavoured almond paste Almond-flavoured sponge cake 39

RECIPES MEDITERRANEAN SEA Suitable for… Single portion Doses for thirty medium-sized glasses INGREDIENTS Mandarin orange sauce Mandarin orange juice 900 g Sucrose 450 g Dry glucose 50 g Zest of 3 mandarin oranges Blood orange sauce Orange juice 800 g Sucrose 600 g Dry glucose 60 g Zest of 2 oranges TRADITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS Pour juice and zest into a small pot and start heating. Mix sucrose and glucose together, then add the sugars when the juice reaches 70°C. Remove from heat. Cool and store at +4°C. Mandarin orange semifreddo Mandarin orange sauce 500 g A Fresh cream with 35% fat content 1000 g B Mascarpone 300 g C Italian meringue 350 g D Blood orange semifreddo Blood orange sauce 350 g A Fresh cream with 35% fat content 1000 g B Mascarpone 300 g C Italian meringue 350 g D RECIPE AND CONSTRUCTION Place glasses on a tray that has been lined with parchment paper. To each glass, add some lime-flavoured topping or sauce that has been mixed with a neutral-flavoured gelatine, then place in blast chiller for 10 minutes. INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH SEMIFREDDO RECIPES Blend Italian meringue with the citrus sauce. Whip the cream and mascarpone in the stand mixer then add to rest of mixture. Add mixture to a pastry bag. Pipe the Mandarin orange semifreddo into each glass until half full, then transfer to blast chiller for 10 minutes. Pipe the blood orange semifreddo until the glass is full, then blast chill. SUMMARY Mix A + D. Whip B + C in stand mixture and add the rest of ingredients, then portion. DECORATION Decorate with strips of semi-candied citrus peels. STORAGE If the decorated product has been blast-frozen, it can be stored in the display case at -19°C for two weeks. If the product has been blast-frozen to its core (for example: at -32°C for 1 hour) and it has not yet been decorated, it can be stored at -19°C for 2 months. ON THE MARKET The whipped products B + D can be substituted with a neutral-flavoured base for semifreddo. The citrus-flavoured semifreddoes can be prepared by substituting the fruit sauces with flavour pastes for gelato. Themed decorations: strips of yellow lemon and orange peels Mandarin orange semifreddo Blood orange semifreddo Lime topping Neutral gelatine 40


Davide Rampello and Paolo Marchi Photos by Brambilla Serrani EVENTS By Federica Serva Identità Golose Milan, an international conference on fine cuisine, pastry and dining service, has overcome its challenges. On September 25-27, the in-person conference finally took place in Milan’s MiCo convention centre. The event returned to its original format, after a digital version held in 2020. This edition focused on the value of work in the restaurant industry, an industry that in Italy lost over 40 billion euros due to the pandemic. Bstage ack on IdentitàGoloseMilan took place in September, and it focused on a very current issue: work in restaurant and pastry kitchens. 42

Andrea Tortora Carlo Passera and Iginio Massari Acting with long-term vision “Building a new future: work” was the theme of the sixteenth edition of Identità Milan, represented by a symbolic dish with a very effective visual representation: “This is no game”, created by chef Matias Perdomo and chef Simon Press. For Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni, creators of the event, “it will be increasingly necessary to act with intelligence and discipline because we cannot go far with intermittent openings and brigades to need to be put back together.” The pandemic turned the restaurant world upside down and this conference carried out the important task of bringing together important protagonists face-to-face on the same stage to try and imagine the future. 43

Mattia Pastori Ida Di Biaggio and Giovanna Musumeci EVENTS Protagonists on the runway It was a success to bring to Milan personalities such as Alain Ducasse, Mauro Colagreco, Joseph Roca, Joe Bastianich. Others did not miss out either, such as Massimo Bottura, Carlo Cracco and Andrea Berton; and many more participated, including Antonia Klugmann, Cristina Bowerman, Isabella Potì, Massimiliano Alajmo, Enrico Bartolini, Mauro Uliassi, Salvatore de Riso, Corrado Assenza, Davide Oldani, Franco Pepe, Moreno Cedroni, Pino Cuttaia, Matias Perdomo, Riccardo Camanini, Niko Romito, Enrico and Roberto Cerea, Ciccio Sultano, Philippe Léveillé. Emotions and experiences Over 100 speakers took turns animating over 70 master classes divided into 10 in-depth topics. Difficulties experienced during the pandemic, but also ideas and innovative forms to get up and start again were shared by the chefs, pastry chefs, gelato chefs, bartenders, pizza chefs and maître d’s. Common in all these figures was the emotion of meeting up again and the desire to not give up, aware of the need to stay united and to focus on young people and training in order to not shatter an exceptional heritage of traditions and knowhow. 44

Simone Padoan, Focaccia Pan Polenta Carlo Cracco, Spaghetto Il Valentino Between talks and cooking demos The 3-day program always commenced with a meeting on the subject “Building a new future: work”, followed by various thematic sessions on Pasta, Gelato, Pastry, Cocktails, Cheese, Pizza, Natural Cuisine, as well as one on the job of the maître d. The sessions placed cooking demos at the centre of attention, which allowed for sharing of experiences, preparation techniques, raw ingredients and tastings of dishes, desserts, cocktails: the result of continuous work in the kitchen and the laboratory. 45

Federico Sisti and Salvatore Castiglione Nicola Olivieri, Fugassa alla grappa EVENTS 46

Marco Pedron, Sorbetto di pane Fabrizio Fiorani and Ciccio Sultano From pasta to gelato Much anticipated were the sessions on Pasta and Pizza, which have always been symbols of traditional Italian cuisine. Chefs de cuisine and pizza chefs demonstrated their ability to always invent something different such as ingredient pairings or processing procedures. The sessions on Cocktails gained more and more space, thanks to the strong interest in deepening the relationship between bartending and cooking. Honey, truffles and extra virgin olive oil were the ingredients highlighted in the creations presented during Identità Naturali. The world of desserts proved to be of the utmost level during the Gelato, Contemporary Italian Pastry and Dossier Dessert sessions, which included references to tradition along with movement towards innovation in the creation of gelato, cakes and single portions. 47

RECIPES SWEET ORANGE Fennel is used in a surprising semi-candied version together with orange and carrot, to create a specialty with unusual taste notes and an original look. By Pierpaolo and Riccardo Magni Photos by Francesca Lazzarini - F2 Studio The recipe is taken from the book “Reverse fusion” published by Editrade 48

FENNEL COMPOSITION • Semi-candied fennel • Orange and fennel gelato • Crunchy carrot chips ORANGE AND FENNEL GELATO INGREDIENTS: • lactose 38 g • sugar 29 g • glucose 96 g • maltodextrin 10 g • dextrose 13 g • nonfat dry milk 13 g • inulin 3 g • neutral stabilizer 3 g • orange pulp 459 g • fennel juice 336 g INSTRUCTIONS According to best practice and chill in the blast freezer. CRUNCHY CARROT CHIPS Slice the carrots lengthwise and dip into the hot syrup 30° De, drain thoroughly, and arrange on a silicone sheet. Dry in the oven at 70-80°C valve open and store in an airtight container. ASSEMBLY AND DECORATION Form a ball of orange and fennel gelato and place on a piece of semi-candied fennel. Chill slightly in the blast freezer. Complete with carrot chips and wild fennel sprigs. Serve immediately. SEMI-CANDIED FENNEL INGREDIENTS: • water 250 g • sugar 250 g • glucose 50 g • fennel 450 g INSTRUCTIONS Boil water, sugar, and glucose. Cool to 60°C, add the slightly boiled fennel pieces. Let soak and cool. Repeat the operation three times, always heating the syrup to 60°C. When finished allow to soak until completely semi-candied. Refrigerate. 49

RECIPES By Claudia Santoro MARINATED SALMON WITH SEASONED Refreshing and flavourful, it is ideal for a light meal. Citrus-marinated salmon with seasoned raw vegetable gelato will delight your palate. The dish is well structured, and the gelato obtains its texture thanks to the addition of vegetable fibres. THE INGREDIENTS VEGETABLE FIBRES Useful for providing structure and body to the gelato, vegetable fibres slow down the melting point. Colalucci is a trailblazer of the use of vegetable fibres in the gelato arts. They are natural and they help the artisan work better; even the semi-finished food products industry uses them to make its creations more natural. Vegetable fibres come from foods such as chicory, lemons or peas. Some act more as an emulsifier, such as lemon; others serve more as a thickener. Furthermore, vegetable fibres act positively on our metabolism, leading to satiety and the improvement of intestinal function. Most vegetables have both soluble and insoluble fibres in varying proportions. SALMON Salmon has a prized meat with a delicate flavour. The most widespread quality is the salmon that come from Norwegian waters. While some doubts have arisen about farmed salmon, its nutritional properties make it an ideal and complete food. In fact, it contains many Omega-3 fatty acids which reduce cholesterol levels, slow down the ageing process and help fight osteoporosis. It is also rich in protein, polyunsaturated fats, vitamins and some minerals such as phosphorus and selenium. To recognize if a fish is fresh or not, it is necessary to check that it has a delicate smell, its appearance is bright and free of any red streaks, the gills are pink and that the eye protrudes with a black pupil, not reddened. Sergio Colalucci Maestro Gelato Chef Mattia Spadaro Chef 50

RAW VEGETABLE GELATO photos by Morguefile and Sxc.hu SEASONED RAW VEGETABLE GELATO INGREDIENTS: • milk 187 g • cream 50 g • dextrose 163 g • salt 3 g • olive oil 80 g • glucose powder 20 g • celery 100 g • bell pepper 150 g • raw fennel 50 g • carrots 150 g • vegetable fibres 44 g • pepper to taste INSTRUCTIONS Blend all vegetables and let marinate. Pasteurize all the other ingredients until they reach a temperature of 85°C then let cool. Add vegetable puree to mix, then batch-freeze. COMPOSITION Place the salmon on the plate with two quenelles of gelato. Serve with fresh vegetables and a sauce made with aromatic herbs. SALMON INGREDIENTS: • slice of salmon 1 • citrus fruits (lemons or oranges) 2 • mixed vegetables to taste • salt to taste INSTRUCTIONS Salt the salmon and let it marinate together with the citrus peels in a vacuumed packed bag for one day. Remove salt then let marinate with citrus and vegetables. 51

EVENTS By Federica Serva Ccorrelations reative 52

Photo by Sistemamanifesto In September, Milan returned to being the international capital of design with the reopening of the in-person Salone del Mobile. It was held as a new exhibition format called Supersalone at the Rho convention centre, along with the simultaneous Fuorisalone events. Showrooms, galleries and exhibition spaces in the various design districts came back to life thanks to a substantial calendar of about 600 events. These events let us experience that atmosphere of creative fervour and pursuit of innovation as we did in past editions, even if a part of the international visitors was missing due to travel limitations. Tortona, Brera, Durini, 5VIE, Isola, Triennale, but also new locations such as Alpha District and the Teatro degli Arcimboldi attracted an unexpected number of spectators. Like on the beach Among the many exhibitions, there was no lack of At Fuorisalone inMilan, several exhibitions and installations highlighted evocative mixtures of design and food, and they proposed multisensorial itineraries surrounded by nature. connections with the world of food and the table. Once such example was the installation “A beach in the Baroque” curated by Studio Aires Mateus for the “Design Variations” exhibition, located at Palazzo Litta. The central element was an oversized beach cabana, a prototype of a customizable equipped Super-cabana. As a natural completion of the imaginary beach, a gelato cart was positioned not too far away. It did not serve just as an iconic symbol, but also as a true “storage cart” for gelato cups and cones offered by Cioccolatitaliani to enjoy fun, flavourful moments. The installation underlined the desire for celebration and renewed cohesion through a game of contrast with the place where it was inserted: the provisional nature of the site-specific work, in contrast with the permanence of the building’s courtyard; bright colours in contrast with the sobriety of the materials that make up the surrounding architecture. 53

Photo by Stefano Scarano Photo by Stefano Scarano EVENTS Art de la table on show Aubergine was the predominant colour of “Art&Design creative lab,” signed by Andrea Castrignano. In the architect’s large loft, the exhibition showed which mixtures can be obtained from the encounter between design and art, also in the world of the table, set up with collections by Weissestal. The protagonist of the Lux Table Corner was the luxurious table told through an elegant and sophisticated mise en place with plates, bowls and mugs from the Loop line. These alternated pure white with nuances of Amethyst, Petrol, Rouille, Slate, Balena and Army. In the Tangram Corner, impactful elements on the table focused on vases and bowls from the Tangram collection, along with charger plates, fruit plates and bread plates from the Wallpaper collection, which portrayed the same patterns of a new series of wallpapers designed by Andrea Castrignano. 54

illy Art Collection Iconic espresso cups The illy Art Collection espresso cups and illy’s unmistakable 100% Arabica, blends have given life to special moments at the Villa Necchi Campiglio café. Illycaffè, already present with its blend at the convention centre and in various showrooms, has emphasizes its partnership with the world of design and contemporary art thanks to the support of FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano (The National Trust of Italy), starting with support of the café in Villa Necchi Campiglio. Here during Design Week, it was possible to drink a coffee or enjoy a cappuccino in one of the iconic cups created by Matteo Thun and decorated by the most celebrated artists of contemporary art (Michelangelo Pistoletto, Marina Abramovic, Jeff Koons, Ai Weiwei, Marc Quinn etc.) as well as admire the spectacular installation made with a selection of espresso cups. 55

Signature Kitchen Suite EVENTS Multisensorial itineraries From Villa Necchi’s garden to the garden created by Signature Kitchen Suite: LG Electronics group’s brand for high-end built-in appliances turned “green” thanks to the installation designed by P’arcnouveau. This installation offered a tasting itinerary titled “True to Food Garden Show” to discover flavours and the company’s philosophy. The visitor followed a multisensorial itinerary which started outside underneath the portico, where a pop-up farmer’s market came to life. The visitor then proceeded to the entrance where a garden with aromatic herbs was located. In the cooking demo area, different types of flour to bake bread were presented. In the basement, pairings of three varieties of olive oil with quality forms of salt were proposed. To complete the tasting, five labels of natural wines were explained. 56