CONTENTS Editorial 5 Contributors 7 The essence of emotions 8 Tea dream 12 Rediscovering time 16 Dark chocolate mousse 22 Berliners 26 All in one shell 32 Pistachio Namelaka 38 Hemp, ancient history 42 Bakery products with hemp 46 Pastry collection 50 In partnership with 80 Year 11 - No. 32 NOVEMBER 2022
EDITORIAL Some certainties, too many unknowns! As we leave the 2022 summer behind us, here we are heading towards a new season of international trade fairs, and thanks to some of the important exhibitions, we can gauge how the industry is faring in these times that are definitely not easy. In the past few months, we attended three of the top tradeshows: Südback in Stuttgart, FHA in Singapore, and Gulfhost in Dubai. All three shows were full of visitors with lots of interest for anything Made in Italy. We ran out of our magazines available at our booths. Everywhere you turned you could see the desire to get out and start up again. The post-Covid times, crossing our fingers, are in full growth. Europe is in a difficult situation. Inflation is at historically high levels, and therefore the price of money is rising. There is the war in Ukraine which continues nonstop and there is no end in sight. It is a delicate situation which has resulted in an energy crisis that is putting lots of pressure on businesses and on all populations in general. And yet, the feeling that if only the “winds” would change then the economic restartwouldbephenomenal iscertainand is felt throughout the food industry, especially regarding the world of sweets. We need to hang in there and continue to look to the near future with hope, even with the uncertainties currently present. In the meantime, enjoy this issue of SweetMood, as always full of suggestions, recipes, ideas. We will certainly see you around at the upcoming tradeshows. Franco Cesare Puglisi 5
CONTRIBUTORS SWEETMOOD-puntoITALY Milan - Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Three-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 11 - No. 32 - November 2022 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Monica Viani Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv Milan, Italy Editrade - Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - Milan, Italy Tel. +39 02 70004960 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Aziende Grafiche Printing Peschiera Borromeo, Italy All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. Manuela Casalini Bakery chef Giuseppe Lisciotto Master chef Marco Franchini Master chef Gianluca Fusto Pastry chef Stefano Bulgarelli Master chef Monica Viani Reporter Johannes, Greta, and Tobias Schmidt Schmiedl bakery 7
8 FROM THE COVER
THE ESSENCE OF EMOTIONS For Gianluca Fusto pastry arts mean the capability of combining ingredients with style, to give unique sensations to one’s palate. To introduce Gianluca Fusto simply as a pastry chef is an understatement. He is in fact a contemporary alchemist who plays with ingredients, consistencies, and temperatures to give unique sensations to one’s palate while instituting an aesthetic and structural minimalism. Each one of his creations is a story to be savoured and enjoyed with every bite. He has an eclectic offering ranging from the most important classics to experiential cakes, and it includes desserts that transform into conceptual expressions. Years of experience After graduating from the Carlo Porta Hospitality Institute of Milan, Gianluca moves to London and works at Harry’s Bar with Chef Alberigo Penati. He then moves to Paris to the Hotel de Castille where under the guidance of Alain Ducasse, he discovers to have a certain predisposition for pastry arts. When back in Milan, he joins the staff of Gualtiero Marchesi’s Bistrot, followed by La Scaletta with Aldo Bellini. But the big turning point both professionally and personally happens thanks to meeting with Aimo Moroni, patron of Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia. With him, he learns to respect the ingredient and to internalize the importance of technique as a means for giving it value. At 28 years old, he enters professional training program of École du Grand Chocolat Valrhona in Tain-l’Hermitage, as the first foreign pastry chef of the teaching staff. Working with the food chemists, physicists and engineers allow him to perfectly understand the world of flavour, consolidating his rigorous and scientific approach to using ingredients. But Gianluca doesn’t stop there. He continues to travel, going from the Middle East to China, from the United States to Japan. The common thread of each trip is the relentless practice of keeping updated his mental encyclopaedia of ingredients. In 2008, he founds Gianluca Fusto Consulting, an entity of consulting, analysis, high-level training and courses aimed towards all areas of the food world. It confirms his love for technique, knowledge of ingredients, design, colours and aromas reminiscent of his travels. 2013 is a year with an important turning point created with Linda Massignan, Fusto’s partner in both work and life. Linda combines her experience in communication, marketing and musical management with the creativity of her husband. Thus, the “Fusto” brand is born. Recent history 2020 was supposed to be an By Monica Viani 9
important year; the opening of his Atelier in Milan was foreseen with an adjoining Pastry School along with the development of a pastry and chocolate brand, Fusto Milano. The objective was to create a research and training hub and not just a productive “gym” for pastry Chefs, an idea credited also by the choice of location for its birth: a former gym from the 1930s on via Amilcare Ponchielli, a stone’s throw from Corso Buenos Aires in Milan. The pandemic imposed a change of direction and instead, a “speakeasy” boutique-laboratory was created. It isn’t visible from the street, and you can only enter by ringing the doorbell between 10 AM and 7 PM every day except Mondays. It is a space dedicated to the study, production and sales (online, retail and takeaway) of “Contemporary Artisanal Pastries and Chocolates.” The main protagonist of the production is chocolate, to which Gianluca dedicated in depth research, allowing him to become one of the most creative maître chocolatiers of the world. His high-quality artisanal pralines, shipped to many foreign countries, have impressed the public, colleagues and critics. In particular, “Emotions in 3 cm2” represent a trip into memories of flavours. Tasting them allows you identify and fully experience emotions given by texture, aromatic profile, shape, dimension and respect of time and of technique. These small treasure chests are able to give value to ingredients such as Sardinian saffron, porcini mushrooms from Piedmont, white truffles from Alba, balsamic vinegar from Modena and a selection of both Italian and non-Italian foods of utmost quality. No compromises For Gianluca Fusto, pastry arts mean the capability of combining ingredients with style and with technique, while considering the creativity and uniqueness of each pastry chef. The choice of ingredients and the pursuit of excellence are the foundation of his pastry arts. In order to not forgo flavour, structure and consistency, one must study and respect the ingredients. In this way, for example, chocolate doesn’t exist but rather there are different types of chocolate to offer based on the season and the flavour pairings. The secret to success for an artisan is to know how to evaluate the quality and seasonality of the products used, without forgetting one’s style and one’s heart. A great pastry chef doesn’t assemble ingredients, but mindfully builds a true cultural project. Definitively, the sweet arts gift the possibility to have the knowledge to understand oneself. It is the journey within that helps us understand the world, humanity and various cultures. Pastry arts, like life, are a continuous pursuit of the laws, colours, aromas and flavours of nature, which are to be combined with the desires of one’s clientele, avoiding trends and whatever is currently in style. It means constructing a pastry art “of the senses”, pastries that can give value to the ingredients, the seasonality and the territory. Gianluca Fusto has explained well his journey and his philosophy in important books. Design, sustainability, ethics and quality Beyond technique, Fusto Milano pastry shop is also about lifestyle, design, arts and inspiration. It is a cutting-edge space just like the equipment used. The different areas, divided by transparent walls, allow you to live the space in its entirety, which creates an experience based on hospitality. At the foundation of every detail and choice, there is a philosophy based on minimalism, ecology and quality of work. Great attention is paid to packaging. Everything created in the space is intended for delivery or takeaway, therefore it needs to arrive perfectly and in an original way; each size and shape of the packages is personalized and decorated, thus becoming a small work of art on par with the content it will be carrying and giving a complete sense to both items. 10 FROM THE COVER
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A creative dessert that mixes ingredients with technique, innovation and research, in the name of chocolate and flavour. TEA DREAM COMPOSITION • cocoa and Earl Grey tea streusel • Jivara velvet cream • raspberries • raspberry glaze • neutral cold glaze By Gianluca Fusto 12 RECIPES
photo by Giovanni Panarotto 13
COCOA AND EARL GREY TEA STREUSEL • butter 320 g • sugar 320 g • Sicilian almond flour 320 g • stone ground pastry flour 255 g • cocoa 60 g • Earl Grey blue flower tea 15 g • sea salt 5 g Weight all the ingredients separately. Cut the butter into cubes and put into the refrigerator. Put the castor sugar and the tea in a peppermill and grind into powder. Mix the following ingredients together in a mixer with a paddle attachment: flour, almond flour, the sugar compound, cocoa powder and salt. When all the ingredients are well amalgamated, gradually add the butter and mix until the dough is smooth and even. Keep refrigerated for 3 hours. Pass through a suitable size grill and store in the freezer. Bake in a convection oven with the vent open at a temperature of 160°C. JIVARA VELVET CREAM • custard 460 g • Jivara 40% couverture 46 g • powdered gelatin 3 g • water to dissolve the gelatin 15 g • soft, fresh mascarpone 460 g Weigh the ingredients separately. Rehydrate the gelatin in abundant cold water and let it dissolve in the custard at a temperature of 65°C. Gradually pour the custard onto the couverture previously melted at 40-45°C. Stir vigorously until shiny and elastic, a sign of a successful emulsifying process. Repeat this operation 4–5 times in order to maintain the structure. Mix to reform the structure and add the mascarpone. Store in a refrigerator at a 4°C covered with a cling film. 14 RECIPES
CUSTARD • fresh cream 35% fat 180 g • whole milk 180 g • pasteurized egg yolks 70 g • sugar 35 g Weigh the ingredients. Boil the milk and cream in a suitable sized saucepan. Beat together the castor sugar and yolks to melt the lecithin. Pour the boiling milk and creammixture onto the yolks in 3-4 stages to prevent thermal shocks. Cook the mixture until it coagulates at 82-84°C then stir to maintain the structure. Cool rapidly. RASPBERRY GLAZE • neutral nappage 265 g • raspberry pulp 30 g • raspberry liquor 10 g Weight all the ingredients separately. Heat the neutral nappage, the raspberry pulp and the liquor in a saucepan of proper size. Sift into another container and cover with a cling film. Keep in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours. NEUTRAL COLD GLAZE • neutral nappage 450 g • water 50 g Heat the neutral nappage glaze and the water in a saucepan of a suitable size. Sift into another container and cover with a cling film. Keep in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours. Heat the glaze to 15-20°C before using. ASSEMBLY Put the 16 cm perforated square moulds onto a perforated baking tray provided with a perforated mat and then place about 200 g of streusel in each one. Wet the surface with water to facilitate fat cohesion. Bake in a preheated convection oven to 160°C for about 22 minutes. Seal once cooled. Using a pastry bag with a nozzle, pipe the Jivara cream onto the surface. FINISHING Using pastry bag, pipe the raspberry jelly into the raspberries. Bring the neutral glaze to the boil and spray the surface of the dessert by means of a compressor. DECORATION Decorate with raspberries and milk chocolate squares. STORING For this kind of tart it is recommended to keep the preparations ready for use and assemble them daily. RECOMMENDATIONS Put in a refrigerated display case at a positive temperature for no more than two days. 15
Image courtesy of Venice Wine Consortium Few people know it, but Venice has a strong relationship with wine. In the past, vineyards spread along its canals and squares, and the “nectar of the gods” was an important product for trade. REDISCOVERING TIME 16 TRADITION
Venice is a dream, an unforgettable memory. As the Venetian composer Luigi Nono wrote, “in Venice you learn to see the invisible and hear the inaudible. Stones, bricks, darkness, water, light: things speak to us.” In “la Serenissima” (the Most Serene Republic), modernity is practically inexistent, and the past is the present. And in Venice’s past, vineyards and wine played an important role. According to an old Venetian saying, in the lagoon “no garden exists without Marzemina, Recaldina or Rabosa.” Grapevines were cultivated everywhere. This can still be proven today thanks to some toponyms painted on the walls to indicate the names of streets, squares and sotoportegos. One example is Malvasia, a toponym which baptizes the streets where the sweet wine was once successfully sold. 17
It may surprise you to discover that some vineyards still exist in Venice, such as the pergola at the Corte Sconta tavern (which literally translates as “hidden courtyard”), just as few steps away from the Arsenal, or the Discalced Carmelites’ garden, a mystical place close to the Santa Lucia train station. The history of wine Venice, the queen of trade for a long time, imported Malvasia from Peloponnese during the fifteenth century, and it was a wine that contributed to the financial riches of Venetian merchants and innkeepers. It quickly became one of the most requested varieties throughout Europe. “La Serenissima” was successful in transforming wine into an object of worship, a trend, a medicine for the body and the soul; all this in a Europe that was afflicted by the plague. Malvasia’s success laid the foundation for creating wine culture. Wines were no longer distinguished only by their colour or their variety, but most importantly by where they were cultivated. It was a true marketing operation that allowed for high prices. Sweet wines such as Malvasia or Vin Santo thus became luxury goods. At the same time, the city of Doges was able to make Marzamino well known, a wine that testifies the trend of producing robust and high-alcohol-content wines, which were more favourable for transportation and storage. The success among Venetian aristocracy is proven by Mozart who, in Don Giovanni, cites it as a much appreciated and sought-after wine. The mystic garden A stone’s throw from the Santa Lucia train station stands the Saint Mary of Nazareth Church with the adjoining Discalced Carmelites’ Convent. The Scalzi’s Garden of Wonders overlooks the Grand Canal and houses a vegetable garden, an orchard, and an area where medicinal herbs are cultivated along with about twenty different varieties of grapevines recovered from the lagoon area to protect the biodiversity of Venice. The garden is divided into seven flowerbeds, each representing one of the seven mansions of the Interior Castel of Saint Teresa of 18 TRADITION
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An important project The Mystical Garden’s restoration project has been supported by the University of Padova, the University of Milan and the Venice Wine Consortium since 2015, and it has contributed to the rediscovery of local wine cultivation. To achieve such excellent results, many different explorations and analyses were carried out before being able to plant ancient indigenous varieties in the vegetable garden. All of this has allowed for the production of fifteen thousand bottles with the Venezia DOC classification. Ad Mensam is a white wine, obtained from a selection of sixteen varieties that retrace the history of Venice; Prandium is a red white, whose blend is composed mainly of Raboso, Marzemino, Regatino and Turchetta varieties. Avila. Each flowerbed recalls a mystic theme. The grassy meadow is associated with the fullness of life. The simple garden, where the medicinal herbs are cultivated, is connected to the mystic meaning of the purification of love. The vegetable garden, in the third flowerbed, expresses the synergy between humans and nature. In contrast, the vineyard recalls sacramental wine, reminding us of the white wine that transforms into blood. It represents the evangelical image of the communion of life between Jesus as the vine and the disciples as the branches. The orchard demonstrates the generosity of the earth. In the last two flowerbeds, the olive grove recalls the friendship between Jesus and the apostles and with all humans, whereas the grove with trees that recall the Passion of Christ alludes to the invitation to enter the interior castle of your own existence. The “bacari” heritage The birth of “bacari” testifies the waning of the Levantine market, which was quickly replaced by the production of Italian wine. Pantaleo Fabiani, a producer from Puglia, opened the first wine retail with wines coming from Trani. The establishment’s success attracted various producers from Puglia, and it instituted the figure of the innkeeper-producer-entrepreneur. This new reality imposed the creation of an original name for serving wine. Leg20 TRADITION
Venice Wine Consortium The Venice Wine Consortium was born in September 2011 thanks to the union of the historicDOC-conservationconsortiums, Lison-Pramaggiore and Vini del Piave DOC. The current consortium contains five classifications: Venezia DOC, Lison-Pramaggiore DOC, and Piave DOC along with two DOCG classifications, Lison and Malanotte del Piave. end has it that a gondolier, after drinking wine from Trani, exclaimed: “Bon! Bon! This is truly a wine… a wine of a bàcaro!” “Bacara” in Venetian dialect refers to companions who make a racket. Indeed “bacari” spread throughout overpopulated districts of the working class, where people lived in the common areas and the streets to escape the tight spaces of their private homes. Especially when the weather was nice, the streets became noisy, filled with chairs where women flirted and street vendors sold their products. These activities centred around the “bacari” where you could eat, discuss and, most importantly, drink. The shadow In the past, wine was not bottled but was sold on tap. One would drink “l’ombra” which literally translates into “a shadow”: an expression that would soon become a unit of measurement. “Un’ombra de vin” (that is, “one shadow of wine”) refers to one eighth of a litre, the same amount as a glass. Regarding the origin of this name, there are many different schools of thought. The most accredited one describes an ancient Venetian custom, that is, in San Marco square, the taverns would place their tables in the shade of the bell tower, moving them as the sun did ensuring that they were always in the shade. The saying became “andiamo a bere all’ombra” (let’s go grab a drink in the shade) which transformed into “andiamo a bere un’ombra” (let’s go drink a shadow). 21
This cream dessert is a celebration of chocolate that meets the refreshing and delicate flavour of mandarin oranges. It is enriched with the caramel flavour that is brought out thanks to the addition of salt. DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE By Giuseppe Lisciotto Giuseppe Lisciotto, executive chef of Les Petites Madeleines restaurant in Turin, Italy 22 RECIPES
COMPOSITION • dark chocolate mousse • milk chocolate cream • mandarin orange gel • mandarin orange powder • candied mandarin orange • Creme Anglaise with salted caramel DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE • milk 150 g • sheet gelatine 6 g • 72% dark chocolate 225 g • cream whipped to soft peaks 225 g Lightly whip the cream to soft peaks using a stand mixer if possible. Chop the chocolate and add the gelatine that has been previously bloomed. Heat themilk, and when it boils, pour it over the chocolate. Blend with an immersion blender without incorporating any air. Then, add the obtained mixture to the lightly whipped cream and mix well. Pour mixture into silicon moulds. Freeze the product then remove from moulds. 23
Tetiana Bykovets on Unsplash MILK CHOCOLATE CREAM • milk 100 g • glucose 6 g • sheet gelatine 3 g • milk chocolate 160 g • cream 220 g Chop the chocolate, then add the gelatine that has been previously bloomed. Heat the milk together with the glucose. When it is boiling, pour it on the chocolate then mix with an immersion blender. Add the liquid cream while continuing to mix. Cover the obtained mixture with plastic wrap directly in contact with the cream, and leave in the refrigerator for 12 hours. MANDARIN ORANGE GEL • mandarin orange juice 300 g • sugar 60 g • water 40 g • sheet gelatine 7 g Add sugar to the mandarin orange juice then bring to a boil. Melt the gelatine in the water, and when it starts boiling, add it to the juice. Spread the mixture onto plastic wrap and let thicken in the refrigerator. Then blend and push through a sieve. MANDARIN ORANGE POWDER • mandarin oranges 4/6 Peel the mandarin oranges and dry the peels. After 24 hours, reduce them to a powder in a blender. CANDIED MANDARIN ORANGE • mandarin orange peels • water • sugar Starting with cold water, bring the peels to a boil three times. Then, weigh the orange peels. In a small saucepan, add the same weight of water and half the weight of sugar together with the boiled orange peels. When the peels with the syrup have started boiling, place them in a vacuum-packed bag and leave them overnight to dry at 70°C. The next day, place them on a perforated pan and bake in a steam oven at 70°C for 30 minutes. Cut them into cubes for the dessert. 24 RECIPES
CREME ANGLAISE WITH SALTED CARAMEL • granulated sugar 150 g • cream 50 g • butter 35 g • fine salt 7 g • whole milk 500 ml • fresh cream 100 g • egg yolks 3 • granulated sugar 70 g Melt the sugar on medium heat until it becomes an amber colour, then slowly add the cream that has been previously heated. Add butter and salt, then mix until a smooth and uniform caramel has been obtained. In another saucepan, heat milk and cream and, at the same time, mix the egg yolks and sugar together. When the milk and cream have started boiling, add the caramel carefully melting it. Then, add the egg yolk and sugar mixture to the caramel mixture, placing it back on the heat and cooking it until it reaches 85°C, taking care to continue to mix it. Transfer the mix to a gelato machine and serve frozen. Jonathan Pielmayer on Unsplash 25
In Lana, South Tyrol, the Schmiedl bakery has been popular with lovers of baked goods since 1890. BERLINERS Left to right: Johannes, Greta, andTobiasSchmidt 26 RECIPES
INGREDIENTS • flour 1000 g • milk 230 ml • clarified butter 220 g • egg yolk 200 g • sugar 100 g • yeast 80 g • egg 1 • vanilla sugar 20 g • salt 20 g • malt (active) 15 g • grated lemon peel 9 g Use a whisk to mix together milk, malt, yeast, egg yolks, egg, sugar, vanilla sugar, and grated lemon peel. Then add the flour and mix all the ingredients. After 3-4 minutes add the butter and immediately after the salt. Mix well until the dough has an elastic consistency. Weigh 50-60 g portions, roll them into balls, and place them on floured sheets. Leave to rise at 28-30°C with sufficient humidity. Shortly before the berliners have doubled in size, remove them from the heated area and place them in a ventilated space for a few minutes so that a light film forms on the surface. Fry the berliners in boiling fat at 170°C-180°C until golden. Once cooled, fill the berliners with apricot jam and sprinkle with powdered sugar. TIP The apricot jam can be replaced with raspberry or plum jam, with chocolate cream, vanilla cream, or Zabov or pistachio cream. The decoration identifies the filling. 27
Berliners decorated with powdered sugar. For a striped decoration on vanilla berliners use wooden or iron strips that are then removed after sprinkling the powdered sugar. 28 RECIPES
Berliners glazed with chocolate and coloured sprinkles. Berliners with chocolate cream and chocolate stripes. 29
Berliners glazed with chocolate and cocoa powder. 30 RECIPES
Pistachio-glazed berliners. From the past to the present In the heart of every small town there’s always a bakery. In Lana, in the province of Bolzano, the Schmidt family of bakers has been in business for over 130 years. In 1890 Josef Schmidt founded the bakery in Via Cappuccini 3, where Schmiedl is still located today. The bakery passed from one Josef to another, and to yet another, until Hans took the helm in 1975. His work continued to reflect the original quality and craftsmanship of his ancestors. These values he then passed on to his children Johannes, Greta, and Tobias, with whom he now shares his wise counsel. In addition to using natural yeasts, the bakery’s greatest strength is its attention to slow, natural fermentation, capable of creating an intense, full-bodied flavour and making the products much more digestible. To make the most of this potential, a partnership was established some time ago with Marco Gobbetti, professor at the Free University of Bolzano, researcher at NOI Techpark, and an absolute luminary in the field of natural fermentation. 31
ALL IN ONE SHELL Taisiia Shestopal on Unsplash 32 INGREDIENTS
Eggs are an essential ingredient in the pastry and culinary arts, often transformed into airy desserts or a light meringue. Eggs are very versatile. Egg yolks and whites can be used either separately or together, in the dough or in a cream, and can be utilized to create gelato flavours. In the pastry arts, their main function is to give structure to doughs and mixes. Egg proteins, when mixed with the flour ones, create a framework that gives consistency to desserts. Furthermore, if well beaten, they incorporate air, fundamental for many preparations. The identikit The general term “egg” almost always refers to chicken eggs. When not, it is necessary to specific the bird species from which it comes. Egg laying chickens (laying hens) are almost always raised in battery cages, and only in some cases it is possible to have larger enclosures or a freerange system. Eggs can vary in weight, ranging from 45 g to 70 g, and they consist of a shell (about 10 percent of the total weight), the egg white (about 60 percent) and the egg yolk (about 30 percent). It is an error to consider the colour of the shell when choosing eggs, whereas the colour of the yolk depends mostly on the feed used to raise the bird. Reading the code stamped on the shell, which is basically an id card for the egg, can help you pick the best quality product. Laura Goodsell on Unsplash Estudio Gourmet on Unsplash 33
In pastry arts The physical and chemical properties, which can be observed after being mechanically processed or after being cooked, include their abilities to incorporate air and increase in volume, to bind and emulsify (that is, to combine a fat component with a liquid) and to modify consistencies. In pastry arts, egg products are used instead of eggs in their shell for practical reasons, for food-safety and health reasons (being that egg products are already pasteurized) and to reduce costs both in terms of time and money. Furthermore, the shelf-life of egg products is longer than that of fresh eggs. Egg yolks The yolk has a more complex composition in comparison to the egg white, as it contains fats such as cholesterol, triglycerides and phospholipids jcomp on Freepik Freepik 34 INGREDIENTS
in addition to water and proteins. For various basic pastry preparations, the yolk acts as a leavening agent thanks to the air that is incorporated into the dough when the yolks or whole eggs are beaten. The yolk gives structure and most importantly it adds flavour to the dessert. It is also an excellent binder that helps hold together sugar and starches. It is fundamental in many creams thanks to its gelling action. By raising the temperature, the proteins present in the yolk denature and, subsequently, coagulate forming a three-dimensional lattice which traps water. It is also an excellent emulsifier, especially when used in batters. Egg whites Egg whites are used in pastry arts mostly thanks their ability to be whipped to hard peaks while incorporating lots of air. They are utilized to prepare meringues, amaretto cookies and torrone nougat, but also in making cookies, where egg whites serve two purposes: making the final product lighter as well as less expensive. In order to obtain excellent results when using egg whites, one must take care of many different aspects, such as the amount of beating time, the age of the eggs (as eggs age, their PH changes and becomes more alkaline), the temperature (denaturation occurs faster at room temperature in comparison to eggs that have been in the refrigerator at 4°C), water (it is possible to add up to 40 percent), the PH level (which can be altered by adding acids, such as citric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid or cream of tartar, which helps to whip), sugar (to delay the formation of foam), the choice of the material of the bowl used to whip, and starch syrup (as a stabilizer). Isabella and Zsa Fischer on Unsplash 35
Nutritional value Eggs contain lots of vitamins. There is a good amount of vitamin A (two eggs provide nearly a quarter of the daily requirement) and B vitamins, in addition to a decent dose of vitamin E. The quantity of calcium and iron can be compared to the amounts provided by meat, 33 mg and 0,7 mg respectively (with most of the calcium coming from the yolk). In addition, the sough-after antioxidant properties are provided by the presence of carotenoids. A 55-gram egg (medium-sized) provides 70 kcal, supplying a low-calorie intake. A trick: egg whites are most digestible when whipped to hard peaks then cooked. For the egg yolk, the opposite applies. Alex Lvrs on Unsplash 36 INGREDIENTS
Coagulation temperatures Using eggs, the temperature of coagulation plays an important role. Eggs exposed to heat coagulate, transforming from a liquid state to a solid one at precise temperatures. At 60°C, the egg white starts to coagulate; at 65°C the egg white has finished coagulating and the yolk begins; at 70°C, the egg yolk finishes coagulating. By adding other ingredients, such as sugar or liquids, the temperatures must be higher to reach coagulation. A textbook example is provided when preparing pastry cream, which can reach very high temperatures thanks to the presence of sugar, starches and milk. On the contrary, adding salt lowers to coagulation temperature. A possible marriage A widespread opinion is that eggs are difficult to pair with wine. But in fact, a smooth and aromatic white pairs wells with many egg-based recipes. If well balanced, it doesn’t create unpleasant contrasts between food and wine. Even a light red wine, such as Merlot from the Colli Berici or a Freisa d’Asti can be well suited for an egg dish. unaihuiziphotography on Freepik topntp26 on Freepik 37
By Marco Franchini and Stefano Bulgarelli Pistachio Namelaka with peanut streusel, cocoa crumbs and lemon gel. A unique recipe from Opera Magna Bistrò restaurant located in Granarolo, in the province of Bologna, Italy. It is an establishment that unites tradition and innovation in a new vision of cuisine, interpreted by the creativity of its chefs, Stefano Bulgarelli and Marco Franchini. PISTACHIO NAMELAKA Images by Massimo Gennari 38 RECIPES
COMPOSITION • Namelaka cream • lemon gel • cocoa crumbs • peanut streusel 39
NAMELAKA CREAM • white chocolate 160 g • pistachio paste with no added sugar 80 g • whole milk 100 g • glucose 5 g • gelatine 3 g • cream 200 g Melt the chocolate in a bain-marie. Once a fluid consistency has been obtained, add the pistachio paste and mix well. Let cool for a little bit. In the meantime, pour milk into a small sauce pan and heat until almost boiling. When the milk is hot, add the glucose and the gelatine that has been previously bloomed in cold water. Add the milk to the white chocolate and pistachio mixture in three parts. At first, the cream will have a lumpy texture, but by adding the milk as indicated, it will become smooth. Once all the milk has been added, pour the mixture into a tall container and add very cold fresh cream. With a blender touching the bottom of the container, mix well without incorporating too much air. Transfer the mix into a container with a lid and let it rest for at least 12 hours in the refrigerator. What is Namelaka Namelaka is a light, creamy, velvety mousse first created in Japan. It differs from a ganache as it uses both fresh cream and fresh milk in addition to gelatine as a stabilizer. LEMON GEL •granulated sugar 150 g • water 80 g • juice of 4 lemons • agar-agar 2 teaspoons Add all the ingredients, except the agar-agar, to a small sauce pan and bring to a boil. Then add the agar-agar and let boil for another minute. Let the syrup cool in the refrigerator until it has a gelatinous consistency. Blend well with an immersion blender. Racool studio 40 RECIPES
Racool studio COCOA CRUMBS • butter 100 g • granulated sugar 100 g • bitter cocoa 50 g • 00 wheat flour 75 g • almond flour 100 g • semolina flour 75 g • egg yolk 20 g • Maldon sea salt 3 g Place all the ingredients in a blender and mix until they have a consistency of fine sand. Spread the mixture onto a baking sheet that has been lined with a silicon mat or baking paper and bake in a preheated non-ventilated oven at 170° for 20 minutes. Once it has been baked, let cool then break into pieces with your fingers. PEANUT STREUSEL • cold butter 100 g • raw cane sugar 100 g • toasted and salted peanuts 125 g • 00 wheat flour 100 g Chop the peanuts with 50 grams of flour taken from the total amount until it has the consistency of a flour. Place all the ingredients in stand mixer equipped with the paddle and knead until a workable dough has been formed. Place the dough between two sheets of baking paper and roll it out with a rolling pin to a thickness of 4 mm. Let it rest in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours. Once cool, cut it or use a round cookie cutter of the desired size to cut out a circle, then bake in a preheated oven at 160° for 20 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool very well before proceeding with the composition. Racool studio ASSEMBLY Add a drop of lemon gel on the plate and place a peanut streusel cookie on it. Make a quenelle with the Namelaka cream and delicately place it on top of the cookie. Cover the quenelle with a thin layer of lemon gel and cover with a sprinkling of the cocoa crumbs. 41
Crispin Jones on Unsplash HEMP, ANCIENT HISTORY 42 FROM THE PAST
jcomp - freepik A small guide to learn about the world of hemp and its extraordinary uses. Considered a “nutritional vaccine”, essential for those seeking wellness, today it is the star of several sweet and savoury recipes. Hemp has ancient traditions in Italy. History says so. Hemp farming was born in Italy around 1300, but numerous sources recount that it had already been introduced in Piedmont and the Po Valley by the Roman legions. But perhaps we can go back even further. Thanks to the discovery of some pollen diagrams in Lake Albano and Lake Nemi, a study conducted in 2002 by the University of Modena and Reggio Emilia showed that hemp was known more than ten thousand years ago. With the Industrial Revolution, its cultivation and processing experienced a real boom, especially in the Emilia and Campania regions. Particularly in Emilia, the volumes of hemp fibre ranged between three thousand and five thousand tons. In 1910, in Emilia Romagna, there were forty-five thousand hectares of land being used for its cultivation. In the fifties, Italy was the second largest producer, preceded only by the Soviet Union. In addition to textile use, it occupied an important role in the kitchen thanks to its healthy virtues. Since the seventies, the costs 43
Obtained from the Cannabis sativa seeds, the flour is rich in essential fatty acids, but also in vitamins and minerals, especially phosphorus and iron. It is also a food with fewer calories than 00 wheat flour (about 21 percent less). Uses in the kitchen Hulled hemp seeds can be added to yogurt or salads, or to garnish recipes that have pilaf or basmati rice as a main ingredient. It lends itself to the preparation of vegan dishes (it is more digestible when compared to soy) as well as culinary options suitable for those and the inability to modernize its production have made it almost disappear, but today the attention to its cultivation and processing is growing. It was then a victim of the inability to distinguish between Cannabis sativa and Cannabis indica. In the seventies, the laws against drugs also affected hemp farming. Since 1998, the cultivation of industrial hemp has been legal again. Its properties Hemp is an annual crop, and it is environmentally friendly since it does not need a large quantity of water and it does not require excessive fertilization. It plays an important role in nutrition as its seeds are rich in essential fatty acids, such as Omega 3 and Omega 6. Precisely because of this, hemp seeds regulate cholesterol levels in the blood and keep the heart healthy. They are rich in fibre, help maintain regularity, and strengthen the immune system. In the kitchen, mainly hemp flour is used. Elsa Olofsson on Unsplash Testeur de CBD on Unsplash 44 FROM THE PAST
Canafé, a gourmet drink Near Piacenza, in San Protaso, just a few kilometres from the medieval village of Castell’Arquato, the Landini agricultural business, a family business that deals directly with the cultivation of alternative crops such as flax, hemp and the processing of the harvested products, has launched an innovative product that incorporates the properties of hemp and coffee, reducing the caffeine and its harmful effects: Canafé. More than 50% of hemp seeds are blended with low-roasted coffee. The result is a VeganOk-certified drink, which provides energy even with a low amount of caffeine, less than 1/4 compared to traditional coffee. In addition, the low roasting of the coffee provides lower acidity when compared to the standard. Three varieties of Canafé are offered, similar in taste, but different in the grain size of the grinding. The first type is the classic Moka grind which, when using a Moka pot, releases all the hazelnut aroma of the hemp seeds while maintaining the coffee flavour. The drip coffee grind, known as American coffee, is perfect to ward off the cold and it is recommended after physical activity, for a recharge of energy and minerals. As for the espresso machine, it is a more full-bodied drink, very similar to a classic espresso but with a sweeter aftertaste. who suffer from gluten intolerance or allergies, since it is a gluten-free food. If a product involves leavening, it is recommended to use 10 percent of it, mixing it with other flours to obtain the total amount needed for the dough. Thanks to its nutty flavour, it is used to produce bread, sandwiches, sweet and savoury cakes, focaccia, pizzas, cookies, cheesecake, panettone and pasta. It can also be used to thicken puddings and soups, to flour and bread, or as a protein supplement in smoothies or juices. Today we are also beginning to appreciate hemp oil with its nutty flavour. Even if it is not suitable for frying, it is a great ingredient for baked goods. It is considered a health oil, having been declared as anticancer and a valid aid for patients with Parkinson’s and Alzheimer’s. Luis_Molinero - freepik Canafè ambientata 45
By Manuela Casalini Manuela Casalini and Maurizio Collenghi The Casa Del Pane pastry & bread shop and café in Castell’Arquato (Piacenza, Italy) offers sweet and savoury options prepared with hemp flour, an ingredient rich with nutritious qualities. BAKERY PRODUCTS WITH HEMP 46 RECIPES
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PIACENZA-STYLE DOUGHNUTS • 00 wheat flour 400 g • canapa sativa hemp flour 65 g • granulated sugar 200 g • butter 200 g • whole eggs 3 • potato starch 50 g • honey 15 g • vanillin 5 g • chemical leavening agent for sweets 20 g Mix butter, sugar, starch, honey and vanillin flavouring. Add eggs, then add the two flours together with the leavening agent and mix until well blended. Form a ball of dough, cover with plastic wrap and let rest for a few hours. Once rested, form ring-shaped cookies. Bake at 180° for 20 minutes. Manuela Casalini, in the small medieval town of Castell’Arquato located in the hills near Piacenza, Italy, produces various specialties with hemp flour. Twenty-two years ago, with the architect Maurizio Collenghi, she remodelled an old, abandoned bakery, choosing to specialize in both a sweet and savoury specialties that unites tradition, innovation and creativity. Thus, she decided to offer some products that recall the culture of the surrounding territory by using the canapa sativa variety of hemp, a crop that up until the 1950s was cultivated in many parts of Italy, especially in the Emilia region. Hemp is not an easy ingredient to work with as it does not contain any gluten; for this reason, it is recommended to mix it with 00 wheat flour not only to improve the flavour but also to help diminish its fibrous and sharp edges. Today, this type of flour is more and more requested thanks to its health benefits. The most desired products are bread, schiacciatina traditional flat bread, and crackers, without forgetting rustic desserts. 48 RECIPES
SCHIACCIATINA • 00 wheat flour 800 g • canapa sativa hemp flour 150 g • salt 20 g • extra virgin olive oil 100 ml • cake yeast 15 g • water 300 g In a stand mixer, add 00 wheat flour, hemp flour, yeast, salt and oil. Knead, adding the water in a slow stream so to obtain a uniform dough. Let rise until it has doubled in volume. Once it has risen, oil a pan and spread the dough out on it. Let rest another half hour. Make small balls of dough and roll them out giving them the classic “schiacciatina” flat shape. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C until golden brown. CRACKERS • 00 wheat flour 400 g • canapa sativa hemp flour 100 g • salt 20 g • extra virgin olive oil 100 ml • cake yeast 10 g • water 100 g Mix 00 wheat flour, hemp flour and salt. Add olive oil and water a little bit at a time to obtain a soft dough. Place the dough onto a baking sheet that has been lined with baking paper. Roll it out into a very thin layer, wetting it with a few drops of olive oil to make it easier to roll out. Pre-cut squares in the desired size and bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for 15/20 minutes. Let cool before breaking up the crackers. 49
BABBI know-how linked to technological product innovation. In fact, these are gelato bases developed with the only use of polyols as sugars’ substitutes, specifically maltitol: complete and without aromas, the structural yield of both bases is guaranteed by an emulsifying-stabilizing core suitable for the hot and the cold process, supported by a mix of vegetable fibers and flours; Base Latte B-Free is also enriched with powdered cream. Golosa Peanut Butter B-Free is a soft and velvety sauce that not only hides a unique and intense taste, but also presents a refined and innovative formulation: the use of cocoa butter and peanuts as the first and only characterizing ingredient gives to this Golosa a dense and full-bodied structure. The new Babbi B-Free family is also enriched by two complete products that are the result of the company’s desire to innovate two historic lines of complete powder ingredients, such as Lattelatte and Fruttafrutta. We are talking about an “evergreen” taste like the Lattelatte Yogurt B-Free and a more refined proposal like the Fruttafrutta Matcha B-Free: the last contains the precious Matcha tea which gives the sorbet all the taste of this finest raw material, with no added aromas or vegetable fats; Lattelatte Yogurt B-Free allows the creation of a yogurt gelato in a quick and easy way, with the only addition of milk. For information: babbi.com - info@babbi.it The development of the new line of Babbi B-Free products comes from the company’s desire to grasp and analyze every signal coming from the market. The goal is to offer solutions that meet the consumer’s dietary habits and their requests, constantly evolving both for health and cultural needs. Babbi B-Free communicates a clear concept: “free” as “without”, something less but with an added value. This new range includes indeed all the new Babbi ingredients marked by the nutritional claim of no added sugars. The Latte B-Free and Frutta B-Free bases contain all the company’s Free to be free 50
BABBI For Babbi, pistachio is a family passion, a passion that mirrors since 1952 into the careful selection of the raw materials and into the continuous and meticulous search for quality. It is that same passion that lives on thanks to the family’s fourth generation currently working in the company. Only the best pistachios that are worthy of becoming Babbi Pistachios are chosen. The most advanced technologies are used to process ingredients, always under the guidance of expert hands that know how to pick, toast, process and work such a prized ingredient and realize each time unique masterpieces. The whole line of Babbi Pistachio products is made under these ideal conditions: pure Pastes, elegant Creams, high-quality Granules, exclusive Wafers with pistachio cream. The Pistachio Pastes are different from one another according to their specific blend of pistachios, various toasting conditions, and the type of processing. The experience in processing nuts has led the company to select the best Pistacchio Verde di Bronte DOP (PDO-certified Green Pistachios from Bronte) and to adorn its products with the Babbi-quality guarantee. This is how these expertly crafted ingredients become every day amazing creations in the most prestigious gelato and pastry shops, as well as in the kitchens of many gourmet haute-cuisine restaurants. For information: babbi.com - info@babbi.it Pistachio: a family passion 52
54 Myriad of features for your recipes BRAVO Mixcream is the next generation cream cooker designed to prepare a big variety and quantity of pastry products quickly and with ease. The heating system of the stainless-steel tank in 36 and 56 models permits the machine to reach high temperatures with low energy consumption in a non-aggressive homogeneous way, which doesn’t burn even most delicate ingredients. Double circuit of the intelligent dry cooling system allows automatically decide for full or partial cooling of the tank down to +4°C with low thermal inertia. Thanks to the speed variator and thoroughly developed software with various preset and free programs, the machine can optimize mixing speed of the cream in accordance with the cream features, to obtain a perfectly structured product. The software of Mixcream is the outcome of more than 50 years of Bravo experience in the world of artisanal pastry, you can customize cooking temperatures and times, cooling temperatures, stirring speed, etc… easily adapts the production process to the personal recipe of the chef. Thanks to a particular spring, the special junction of the side blade pushes the mixture towards the tank wall, making it more and more refined at every turn of the stirrer. The scraper then collects the residual cream from the tank wall and puts it back into circulation for further refinement. The high-performance technology behind the Pâte à choux stirrer ensures a perfectly homogeneous and uniquely textured finished eclairs, cream puffs, and many other choux pastry products Evo Mix is a patented optional, a functional immersion blender which can be used automatically or manually in both heating and cooling phase. It is a perfect tool to grind fresh or frozen fruits, emulsify or rub creams, sauces, jams, lemon curd, soft cream cheese. Easy to use, disassemble, and clean. Thanks to a connection pipe and to a special additional cover, Blow enables the cream cooker machine Mixcream to work in sousvide mode. Products made by Blow+Mixcream offer great improvements for those recipes with eggs and milk from both a taste point of view as the flavours are enhanced to their maximum level as well as from an aesthetic point of view as colours remain brighter. Creams boast a perfect texture and the exalting of colours and taste both with fresh product with stored one.
In 2022 Carpigiani presented the new Pastochef RTL-I, the latest generation of one of its most popular pastry technologies, the Pastochef RTL. The machine is equipped with an inverter that can vary the speed of processing to improve mixes’ texture and structure. It is available in three versions: Pastochef 18 RTL-I, Pastochef 32 RTL-I and Pastochef 55 RTL-I, each having a different production capacity. The pastry machine has 18 different pastry programs, 9 chocolate programs, 8 special programs for desserts, 7 savory programs and 4 gelato programs to pasteurize the mixes and age them. The entire Pastochef RTL range, with and without inverter, is designed to automate all recipes that require time and manual effort. Heating and cooling are carried out in a “dry bain-marie”, thus avoiding potential incrustations on the cylinder’s surface and guaranteeing heat exchange, performance, and energy consumption. The display guides the operator, showing the production phases, temperatures, and suggestions for adding ingredients. In 2022 Carpigiani presented also the Lab-O-Chef 5 a multifunction machine, currently only available in a limited edition. This countertop Focus on the world of pastry CARPIGIANI machine is designed to be the perfect companion for pastry chefs and chefs who can use it to produce creams, ganache, jams, béchamel, and other hot and cold specialties with consistent results over time. Its use is simplified by a control panel with touchscreen technology allowing access to 66 preset programs and the creation of new custom programs, not to mention monitoring all stages of production. A world of recipes at your fingertips! In fact, the machine comes pre-loaded with 21 pastry programs, 8 for chocolate, 6 for topping sauces, and 14 for savory foods and specialties. Moreover, the machine turns into a countertop batch freezer for artisanal gelato with 15 pre-installed programs, allowing chefs and pastry chefs to expand their menu by adding delicious sub-zero creations. For more information: www.carpigiani.com 56
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