THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 12 - No. 33 - JANUARY 2023 - € 1.00 Marco Venturino gelato chef of the year
CONTENTS Editorial 9 Contributors 11 In partnership with 12 Marco Venturino, gelato chef of the year 21 Impalpable lightness 26 PuntoItaly wire 30 The country of strawberries 34 The new aesthetics of gelato 40 Elegant bowl 44 Everybody loves Made in Italy 46 Gelato with rice 52 Soft gelato take-out 56 Under the Caribbean sun 60 Discovering Italy through pizza 64 The Companies 68 The Shows 166 26 46 52 64 40 THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 12 - No. 33 - JANUARY 2023 - € 1.00 7
EDITORIAL THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 12 - No. 33 - JANUARY 2023 - € 1.00 International contexts are still restless. Energy and raw material costs have skyrocketed; inflation shows no sign of abating. The ECB and the Fed try to counteract rising prices by raising interest rates. Questionable decisions, to say the least. Consumers already tried by the “high costs of living” see the costs of mortgages and loans increase heavily. Same story for small businesses, of which the food industry represents a substantial part. The result: everyone consumes less. And yet, as already highlighted last semester, “food” is going strong. We have continued participating in several international tradeshows, gathering opinions and verifying the situation. Made in Italy products, especially the ones dedicated to artisanal sweets, are growing strongly and are appreciated globally. Now, we are starting again with our “exhibition tour”, stopping in Lyon for Sirha, in Rimini for Sigep and in Warsaw for Expo Sweet. We will bring, as always, “lightning bolts” of Italian artisanal confectionery culture around the world. We continue to move forward with determination with our work. In this issue, you will find many interesting offerings, with the cover and the opening interview dedicated to Marco Venturino, “gelato chef of the year”, who jumped to the top of the world ranking of Gelato Festival World Masters. Then, you will find recipes, curiosities, the proposals of many companies. In synthesis, this is the new puntoItaly, which has reached and exceeded eight thousand subscribers scattered in the four corners of the globe. Of this, we are very proud. As usual, we will see you at the upcoming tradeshows or online at www.puntoitaly.org. Keep up the hard work and Happy New Year to all! Forwardwithdetermination! 9
CONTRIBUTORS Giorgia Doglioni Reporter Davide Pini Reporter Pino Scaringella Master gelato chef Beppo Tonon Master gelato chef Antonio Mezzalira Master gelato chef Marco Venturino Master gelato chef Alice Vignoli Master gelato chef Pierpaolo Magni Master gelato chef Riccardo Magni Master gelato chef puntoITALY Milan – Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Three-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 12 - No. 33 - January 2023 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca, Patrick Hopkins Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv srl - Milano Editrade srl – Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - 20133 Milan, I Tel. +39 02 70004960 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Aziende Grafiche Printing Peschiera Borromeo (Milan, I) All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. 11
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH ANSELMI - DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.anselmi1892.com ACCADEMIA BIGATTON Tel. (+39) 421 271554 www.accademiabigatton.com info@accademiabigatton.com BABBI Tel. (+39) 543 448598 babbi.com info@babbi.it BIGATTON PRODUZIONE Tel. (+39) 421 271554 www.bigatton.com bigatton@bigatton.com BRAVO Tel. (+39) 444 707700 www.bravo.it info@bravo.it BRX Tel. (+39) 721 499611 www.brxitalia.com info@brxitalia.com CARPIGIANI Tel. (+39) 51 6505111 www.carpigiani.com info@carpigiani.it CARTOPRINT Tel. (+39) 2 96399911 www.cartoprint.com infocartoprint@sedagroup.org COLALUCCI Tel. (+39) 6 92099203 www.colalucci.it info@colalucci.it CONI PERFETTO Tel. (+39) 81 5050033 www.coniperfetto.it info@coniperfetto.it DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333 600 www.disaronnoingredients.com EXPO SWEET Tel. (+48) 22 4659623 www.exposweet.pl ezig@exposweet.pl EMENDATORI&VAYRA 1905 Tel. (+39) 532 900770 www.ev1905.it info@ev1905.it FABBRI 1905 Tel. (+39) 51 6173111 www.fabbri1905.com commerciale@fabbri1905.com FRASCHERI Tel. (+39) 19 7908005 www.frascheriprofessionale.it commerciale@frascheri.com FRIGOMAT Tel. (+39) 377 415011 www.frigomat.com frigomat@frigomat.com FRUCTITAL Tel. (+39) 121 56587 www.fructital.it sales@fructital.it FUGAR Tel. (+39) 541 679470 www.fugar.it fugar@fugar.it GELATITALIA div. GRANULATI ITALIA Tel. (+39) 35 4824335 www.gelatitalia.it info@gelatitalia.it I-CONICA Tel. (+39) 55 3870097 www.i-conica.it commerciale@microandi.it I.CO. CIALDE Tel. (+39) 827 34319 www.icocialde.com info@icocialde.com IMBALLAGGI ALIMENTARI Tel. (+39) 577 660353 www.imballaggialimentari.it info@imballaggialimentari.it ISA Tel. (+39) 75 80171 www.isaitaly.com customerservice@isaitaly.com ITAL DIARY Tel. (+971) 547043074 www.italdairy.com info@italdairy.com 12
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH ITALPROGET Tel. (+39) 75 987038 www.italproget.it info@italproget.it LAWER Tel. (+39) 15 9899511 www.lawer.com sales@lawer.com LEAGEL Tel. (+378) 549 999435 www.leagel.com info@leagel.com LEVANTE PROF Tel. (+39) 6 6634333 www.dmpsrl.eu info@dmpsrl.eu MASTRO INGREDIENTS 1985 Tel. (+39) 2 50303281 www.mastro1985.com info@mastro1985.com MEC3 Tel. (+39) 541 859411 www.mec3.com mec3@mec3.it MEDAC Tel. (+39) 89 301466 www.medac.it info@medac.it MIG Tel. (+39) 437 577577 www.mostradelgelato.com fiera@longaronefiere.it MONTEBIANCO DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.montebiancogelato.com info@montebiancogelato.com NEROLUCE Tel. (+39) 422 967611 www.nero-luce.com info@nero-luce.com NUTMAN GROUP Tel. (+39) 141 835225 www.nutman-group.com info@nutman-group.com ORG. VITTORIO CASELLI TEL. (+39) 55 284292 www.caselli.it caselliorg@caselli.it ORION Tel. (+39) 731 61531 www.orionstyle.com info@orionstyle.com PREGEL Tel. (+39) 522 394211 www.pregel.com info@pregel.it PRODOTTI STELLA DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.prodottistella.com info@prodottistella.com REIRE Tel. (+39) 522 93551 www.reire.com info@reire.com SALVALACQUA Tel. (+39) 721 499611 www.salvalacqua.com info@salvalacqua.com SIGEP Tel. (+39) 541 74111 www.sigep.it helpdesk.rn@iegexpo.it TADDIA Tel. (+39) 51 944973 www.taddia.com info@taddia.com TORRONALBA Tel. (+39) 173 361140 www.torronalba.com torronalba@torronalba.com UNIGEL Tel. (+39) 35 883154 www.unigelitalia.com info@unigelitalia.com 14
INTERVIEW By Franco Cesare Puglisi Since July 14, 2022, a gelato maker from Varazze, located in the province of Savona (Italy), Marco Venturino, has had his life changed. On that date in the International Press Office in Rome, he was proclaimed the “gelato maker of the year”, rising to the top of the Gelato Festival World Masters ranking, the prestigious competition dedicated to artisanal gelato, with thousands of participants from all over the world. With the delivery of the “Three Crowns”, he was awarded for his constant search for quality and his tireless participation in various rounds of the tournament, culminating with earning third place overall in the world, and the first among the Italians, in the grand finale held in Bologna a few months earlier. The ranking, as in many competitions, assigns points based on the placements obtained, on victories at both a national and international level, and it also awards dedication to participating. For over 10 years, Marco Venturino has been “running” his race, being challenged, putting in tireless effort and obtaining prestigious achievements. We met with him and interviewed him for our magazine. With his flavour “Bocca di Rosa”, he jumped to the top of the Gelato Festival World Masters ranking, launching himself into the vortex of professional and mediatic popularity. gelato chef of the year Marco Venturino 21
INTERVIEW on social media. A huge gratification for my job. I suggest all gelato makers to try and undertake the challenge of competing in tournaments and competitions. Sooner or later, an opportunity can arise for everyone. How much has your family influenced your success? My family has had a huge impact. We are a very tight team, my wife, my daughter and me. We play as a team and three heads think and play better than one. Marco, how has your life changed after your success with Gelato Festival World Masters? It has changed a lot. Professionally speaking, the popularity gained from the Gelato Festival title substantially increased the amount of work, bringing us to results much higher than those before Covid. As far as the media aspect is concerned, it was a real revolution. I was launched into a crazy world, going through dozens and dozens of interviews, tv and radio appearances both in Italy and abroad, as well as being on newspapers and popular magazines. A real boom in views 22
How did the idea of proposing the gelato flavour “Bocca di Rosa”, which rose to the worldwide podium of the competition, come about? Bocca di Rosa is a flavour created by my daughter Carola. I perfected it, transforming it from theory into reality. It was born from brilliant combination of music and gelato, through the famous song of Fabrizio De André, the unforgettable Italian singer-songwriter from our Liguria region. Was the choice to focus on local products a winning one? Absolutely yes. We focus heavily on highlighting local products and we always have our local customers in mind. Local products are certainly a great success with tourists, but for us, our local clients are very important: it is important for them to discover and rediscover the pairings and the flavours we propose. We launched years ago our flavour “Liguretto” (a registered brand) which is a lemon and basil sorbet, as basil is a Ligurian excellency. Also “Bocca di Rosa” is made with an infusion of roses that come from our land. What were the other important milestones of your career? Definitely the last ten years represent the true turning point. In 2013, with our gelato shop “I Giardini di Marzo”, we placed seventh at the competition promoted by “Gastronauta”. In 2014, we took first place at “Gelati d’Italia ad Orvieto”, and the following year we won the PuntoIT trophy during the Levante Prof tradeshow, which opened the doors to the Gelato Festival competition. From there, we went on to the Italian selection round, then the European one and to the world finals in December 2021, where I placed third overall and first among the Italians. This journey of participation and professional successes has allowed me to reach the top, becoming the first overall in the world in the Gelato Festival World Masters ranking. 23
INTERVIEW In thesedifficult times, what advicedo youhave for gelato chefs for growing their businesses and to rise to the forefront of the industry? Invest in your business. Always focus on the quality of what is produced and offered to your customers. Participate in competitions and tournaments which always represent a moment of exchange and professional enrichment with many colleagues. Invade social media, which today are essential tools to make yourself known by a large public. Persevere and never give up. Artisanal gelato is experiencing a very positive moment despite international problems and skyrocketing costs of energy and ingredients. Yet it remains a simple product with an excellent value for money. Do you agree with this assessment and what future do you foresee for the industry? I completely agree with the content of the question. Artisanal gelato is in the hearts of consumers of all ages and all professions. It is a product that everyone can access, and I see a rosy future despite the obvious difficulties we face today. It is an Italian excellency that must be produced at its best, sold well and communicated in a perfect way. 24
Which was the most important professional intuition of your career? Definitely it was having come up with “Liguretto”, my lemon and basil sorbet, and having registered it. This flavour opened many institutional doors, starting with my region. It has been considered an excellency of our territory, which has given value to Liguria both nationally and internationally. And I’m very proud of that. The most significant professional mistake of your career? I don’t have any specific regrets, perhaps always having a humble approach to the things that gradually happened around me. But if I had been more arrogant, I wouldn’t have been me. I leave arrogance to others; I think it is always a sign of weakness. What is Marco Venturino’s main goal for the future? To become a judge in gelato competitions both nationally and internationally, and to offer my gelato in restaurants. A perfect marriage of good food with excellent artisanal gelato. 25
RECIPES IMPALPABLE LIGHTNESS By Marco Venturino 26
INGREDIENTS • white base 500 g • white chocolate 300 g • rose water 200 g INSTRUCTIONS Prepare the pasteurized base. Melt the white chocolate in the microwave and add a little bit of the base to the white chocolate, emulsifying everything. When it is well blended, add more white chocolate and the rose water that has been prepared in advance by leaving Rugosa-, Gallica- and Mucosa-variety rose petals in infusion. Pour the obtained mixture into the batch freezer. If possible, decorate with rose petals and serve. Bocca di rosa Rose petals, Genovese basil and lots of artistry to create two specialties that honour the Ligurian territory. 27
Photo by Wolfgang Hasselmann on Unsplash RECIPES 28
INGREDIENTS • lemon sorbet mix 900 g • PDO Genovese basil 100 g INSTRUCTIONS Prepare the lemon sorbet. Leave aside 50 g of the sorbet water, in which the basil leaves should be emulsified. Once it is all well blended, pour mixture into the batch freezer. If possible, decorate with PDO Genovese basil leaves together with a slice of dehydrated lemon and serve. Liguretto (lemon and basil sorbet) 29
FAIRS TOUR A chronicle of the trade fairs visited by puntoItaly during its travels abroad. A first-hand reportage of meetings, emotions, and experiences. puntoItaly wire By Davide Pini SÜDBACK - GELATISSIMO Stuttgart (Germany), 22 - 25 October Inebriated by the irresistible fragrances of pastry and bakery that permeated the exhibition centre of this German city, we visited the various stands with the aim of “gathering” the moods of the public and exhibiting companies. We had no doubts: everywhere there is a renewed desire to invest and restart businesses at full capacity. Over 35 thousand professional visitors who flooded the exhibition halls were able to experience first-hand the most recent developments regarding ingredients, products, technologies, furnishings and equipment in the dynamic bakery arts industry. And commercial trades did not take long to arrive. There was also considerable interest for Gelatissimo, the area dedicated to artisanal gelato organized within the Südback 2022 context. The rich program of collateral initiatives featured a full calendar of in-depth events held at the Bäcker-Trend-Forum and the Konditoren-Trend-Forum. Expectations were high for the allocation of the Südback Trend Awards, dedicated to innovations in the industry. Among the winners, a digital system that regulates CO2 levels during production and a line of completely natural fruit purees that do not require refrigeration, greatly simplifying production. The dates for the next edition have been confirmed, scheduled for October 26 - 29, 2024. 30
FOOD&HOTEL ASIA Singapore, 25 - 28 October We returned to Singapore, after many postponements, in one of the cities where the pandemic was most felt and was strictly monitored with many limitations. The FHA HoReCa 2022 event, whose name comes after halving the event in respects to pre-pandemic levels, ended with resounding success after four enthusiastic days of B2B exchanges among players in the hotel-restaurant-bar industry. This tradeshow is clear proof of the HoReCa industry’s strength, which is recovering all over the world. Its numbers include over 34 thousand participants from 85 different countries, with 34% coming from abroad and 66% local visitors. As customary to the show, there were numerous competitions, including FHA Culinary Challenge and the very popular Barista Team Championship. But special interest was garnered by the Asian Pastry Cup, a selection round for the World Pastry Cup which will be held in Lyon in January 2023. Malaysia triumphed over South Korea and Chinese Taipei, coming in second and third respectively. Our participation was greatly satisfying thanks to being able to meet Italian exhibitors again, who were present in force returning to this location that has always been a point of reference for Far Eastern markets. 31
FAIRS TOUR Gulfhost and Speciality Food Festival, making for a lively terrain of experiences and a meeting place for all that is related to artisanry, good food and exotic ingredients. Specialty Food Festival is the ideal destination for buyers of the foodservice, hospitality and retail industries to discover artisanal secrets. It is an exhibition that unites the best chefs, restaurateurs, hoteliers, resellers and service suppliers for restaurants in the region, and it is where they face the most urgent needs and opportunities of the industry. Our puntoItaly area was located close to Top Table, an area dedicated to culinary masterclasses, workshops and competitions betweenaward-winningChefs.Over a hundred intriguing recipes were prepared and narrated in front of an always enthusiastic crowd. Once again, returning to Dubai proved to be highly satisfying, filled with meetings with international professionals that continue to search for inspiration in the fascinating offer of all that is Made in Italy. SPECIALITY FOOD FESTIVAL Dubai (UAE), 8 -10 November The United Arab Emirates never gave up on their trade fairs in the agri-food world, showing undoubtedly strong organizational skills, even despite the significant multi-ethnic crowd that characterizes every event in this country. As usual, this November edition brought into the Dubai World Trade Centre a partnership of exhibitions each with a strong following: Gulfood Manufacturing, 32
MIG Longarone (Italy), 27 - 30 November It definitely was not a coincidence that the organizers of Mig Longarone chose an entirely green-coloured logo to identify this 62nd edition. Sustainability and connection to the territory were the cardinal rules that acted as a theme for this exhibition. This theme was reiterated by the prestigious MIG Green Award, that aims to recognize the effort of exhibiting companies regarding their care for the environment. As tradition dictates, there were numerous competitions dedicated to gelato chefs, such as the 52nd edition of the Coppa d’Oro 2022. The flavour this year was Malaga raisin, and the competition was won for the second time by Barbara Bettera. The Mastri Gelatieri Award was awarded to the Gio- litti family from Rome, which has reached its fifth generation. They are authentic ambassadors of artisanal gelato in the world with numerous shops open in Europe, America and Asia. The winners of the Artglace competition were also announced. The face-off between Austria and German was won by the Austrian gelato chefs, as they convinced the jury with flavours such as Mozart, Orange Stracciatella and Sacher. The 2nd edition of the “Una Pralina in Gelateria” competition was won by Robbie Pezzuol for best chocolate praline. The next edition has already been scheduled: November 26 - 29, 2023 for a Mig... that keeps getting greener! 33
Image by Evan Wise on Unsplash TRAVEL NOTES The jumbo jet takes off from Turin with Tokyo as its destination, in the Land of the Rising Sun. After fifteen hours of flight, I finally land at the Narita International Airport. The sky is clear and full of light, and the temperature is about 10°C. I have to admit that the discomfort of jetlag starts to set in: it is seven hours ahead of Italian time. I reach the Odaiba district by car. It is a futuristic and surreal neighbourhood of Tokyo. It is built entirely on a recycled terrain made of trash: millions of tons thrown into the Ariake Bay for years. Here you can find the headquarters of the biggest Japanese and International companies together with stores, cafés and restaurants. Nearby there is the Fuji Television building, designed by the architect Kenzo Tange, as well as a French- and Italian-style “Wedding Village” created for people who want to get married the European way. I’m staying at a hotel in front of the Ariake Bay, not far from the building that hosts the exhibition area of Tokyo. Its looks like a huge spaceship ready to take off, with four large upside-down pyramid structures. I am really tired. It is time to go to sleep. Tomorrow, I have a very busy day ahead of me. I need to prepare the room, the ingredients and documents for my class on Italian gelato dedicated to about seventy entrepreneurs specialized in coffee, pastry and foodservice. Choice ingredients The next morning, I take the Yurikamome, an elevated metro that travels at a considerable speed on a monorail. I am heading towards the Shimbashi station, the terminus of Tokyo’s metro. I don’t even consider taking a taxi, due It is the favourite fruit of Japanese consumers, and it is one of the prized ingredients used by Maestro Pino Scaringella during his Italian gelato course held in Tokyo. The country of strawberries image by Roberto Ravera By Pino Scaringella 34
35
TRAVEL NOTES to the traffic. Taking the Yamanote line, I make it to Ginza, the elegant shopping neighbourhood. It is the pulsing heart of luxury and high life, and it’s where you can find cafés, shops and prestigious international fashion brands. Men and women dressed in a western apparel walk next to ladies who wear the traditional kimono. But business calls. I need to purchase the fruit that I will use during my course as ingredients for sorbets and gelato. I jump on the metro and arrive in the Sukiyabashi neighbourhood, home of the large department stores. In a fresh produce shop, I find the ingredients but… holy smoke, they are expensive! I focus my attention on the strawberries, which are the most loved fruit in Japan: they can be found in many pastry recipes. With gelato they are widely used as an ingredient for very refreshing sorbets. An exquisite creambased gelato made with fresh milk, cream, condensed milk and strawberries in a poached sauce is also in great demand. Japanese are so fond of strawberries that they dip them directly into condensed milk! And there are so many varieties. The official website of the Ministry of Agriculture of Japan lists over three hundred, although not all of them are commercially available. There is the “classic” red variety (sold at 10 euros per kilogram) along with varieties that are purple, black and yellow... Particularly sought after are the pure white strawberries, called Hatsukoi No Kaori (which translated sounds like “perfume of first love”). In this regard, my amazement is twofold, not only for the colour but also for the cost: 10 euros for a strawberry that weighs about 80 grams. That means a whopping 120 euros per kilogram! Once I have selected the strawberries, I dedicate myself to the choice of melons, watermelons (round, square and heartshaped) and cherries. The latter are packaged in a box of 15 pieces, just as if they were chocolates. The price? 3.5 euros per cherry... I feel like I’m in a jewellery store: even the cost of mandarin oranges and mangoes is really prohibitive. But I must admit that the quality is certainly high. After completing my purchases, I go to the central railway station of Tokyo, where the fastest train in the world departs, the “Shinkansen”, also famous for its punctuality and considerable frequency. Here I am at the location where I will hold the course. I make sure that everything is in order and then... to bed! image by Freepik image by Roberto Ravera 36
The greatest job in the world The alarm goes off at 6 AM. I get ready and arrive at the headquarters. Three very intense days await me, with non-stop training from 9 AM to 6 PM (only a short break for lunch is planned). I have a delicate task: to convey to the students the enthusiasm for what I believe is the greatest job in the world. It will not only be a matter of “teaching” how to prepare Italian gelato: I need to promote the image of this authentic symbol of Made in Italy excellence... ... That’s it. I presented, discussed, produced, tasted and instilled the idea of gelato. Sometimes I rejoiced and sometimes I suffered, but I am sure I was able to convey the message that is most dear to me. The final applause and the requests to take a picture with me were very gratifying. Someone even told me: “You, sensei (master) Pino, are the ambassador of Italian gelato in Japan”. Who knows. One thing is certain: I was there. 37
TRAVEL NOTES A little bit of relaxation Once the course was over, I allowed myself a couple of days to visit Tokyo. The first stop was in Akihabara, the district for electronics, department stores and shopping. Lots of lights and lots of people in constant movement. Entire multistorey buildings and small shops, a continuous and open-air “discount shopping centre”, neon lights on every building, loud and deafening sounds… As I walk, brightly dressed shop assistants with megaphones yell what’s on sale. I realize as I wander from one neighbourhood to another that Tokyo is a city of a thousand faces. Districts such as Shinjuku and Shibuya, for example, are dotted with department stores, theatres and art galleries. The Ueno district offers a magnificent park to walk in, it has a zoo and is home to prestigious national museums. Half of Japan’s student population lives in Tokyo, and the majority lives in the Ochanomizu neighbourhood: it is a picturesque district known for its musical instrument shops and the Russian Orthodox cathedral, St. Nikolai. As I make it to Sunday evening, I had walked so much in the last few days, my legs hurt. Waiting for me at dinner is a typical and traditional Japanese meal. For my first course I am having Soba, a slightly spicy and tasty specialty. They are noodles made from buckwheat usually served dipped into a sauce made with soybean oil and seasoned with Wasabi sauce (green horseradish), pieces of ginger and a nest of onions. As my entree, I had Tempura, lightly fried fish and vegetables. All was accompanied with a good beer, and to finish, a shot of the classic Sake liquor, a distilled drink made from rice. And tomorrow, I travel back home! Image by Roberto Ravera 38
image by Roberto Ravera image by Freepik Strawberry Cream Gelato INGREDIENTS: • whole milk with 3,5% fat content 1100 g • cream with 35% fat content 650 g • condensed milk with 8% fat content 600 g • sugar 340 g • glucose 29 DE 170 g • cream base 50 with 3,5% fat content 140 g • fresh or frozen strawberry pulp 1000 g TOTAL 4000 g INSTRUCTIONS Mix sugar, glucose and cream base. Add the obtained mixture to milk at room temperature. Add condensed milk, mix well then blend. Heat mix to 85°C, then let cool. Add strawberries, blend well until an even mixture is obtained, then batch freeze to -9/-10°C. 39
RECIPES THE NEW AESTHETICS By Pierpaolo and Riccardo Magni Images by Francesca Lazzarini F2 Studio These pages present a recipe from the book “Reverse fusion. For a (delicious) Gelato Style”, which gathers the creations invented by gelato Maestros Pierpaolo and Riccardo Magni. It intends to present one of the top Italian excellencies with a contemporary spin, offering gelato chefs a unique tool to make themselves stand out not only from a flavour stance but also regarding the display of their gelato: a key element to continue to succeed in acquiring more clients. The world of gelato is thus interwoven with the world of pastries, cuisine, ice and chocolate sculptures, giving life to a fascinating exchange of knowledge and flavours. The book, written in collaboration with gelato historian Luciana Polliotti, is published by Editrade, and it is available in English on portalegelato.it. 40
OF GELATO Frozen fruit soup When a skilful mix of fruit meets unexpected ingredients as the rice, a dish with refined flavours and an absolutely original presentation is created. COMPOSITION • Aromatic syrup • Diced fresh fruit • Zucchini and mint gelato • Sweet rice AROMATIC SYRUP INGREDIENTS • water 650 g • sugar 100 g • apricot juice 200 g • lime zest 1 • vanilla pod 1/2 • peppermint leaves 8 INSTRUCTIONS Combine all ingredients and bring to a boil. Refrigerate. 41
RECIPES SWEET RICE INGREDIENTS • Carnaroli rice 100 g • water 1000 g • milk 500 g • sugar 50 g • salt 1 g • vanilla pod 1/2 INSTRUCTIONS Add the rice to cold water and bring to a boil for about two minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, and finish cooking in the milk. Add the sugar and chill. ASSEMBLY AND DECORATION Marinate in the cold syrup. Keep covered at 2-4°C to allow the different flavours to harmonize. Place the soup in the serving dish, complete with three small quenelles of cooked rice, three of gelato. Decorate with fresh shoots. When serving, close with a glass bell adding dry ice for a smoke effect. DICED FRESH FRUIT INGREDIENTS • bananas 150 g • mango 150 g • apricots 150 g • strawberries 150 g • kiwi 80 g • raspberries 100 g • currants 80 g • pineapple 200 g INSTRUCTIONS Cut the fruit into cubes and marinate in the syrup. Refrigerate. ZUCCHINI AND MINT GELATO INGREDIENTS • water 231 g • zucchini 300 g • onions 30 g • dry milk 40 g • cream 35% fat 150 g • extra virgin olive oil 40 g • salt 4 g • dextrose 130 g • milk base 100 75 g • mint and parsley leaves 10 INSTRUCTIONS Sauté the onion with the zucchini, finish cooking with mint and parsley leaves. Weigh the cooked zucchini. The difference from the initial weight is the water that evaporated during cooking, which must be reinstated. Pasteurize all the ingredients except for the cooked zucchini, which will be mixed and added to the mixture before freezing in the batch freezer. 42
43
RECIPES ELEGANT BOWL By Beppo Tonon Images by Studio Phototecnica 44
This double corolla flower, formed by a mango with a papaya heart, allows you to create an original dessert in a bowl, replicating a typically Asian style. For this type of slicing, select a mango that is perfectly ripe so that it has a firm and elastic texture. This way each slice can be folded without breaking. The first step is to thoroughly wash the fruit, then cut it lengthwise. Delicately remove the seed without damaging the pulp. Set the slicer to obtain about a two-millimetre thickness (naturally this depends on how ripe the fruit is). Delicately fold the slice in two, then fold it again. To create the heart of the composition, a double corolla flower, start by washing a papaya. Cut it horizontally and use the upper half. With a smooth-blade knife with a sharp tip, carve the petals with semi-circular cuts while exerting a slight undulating movement to realize a wavy petal. Continue with a circular cut inside of the fruit and remove the excess. Thus, the first corolla has been obtained. Repeat the four semi-circular cuts, a second circular cut and remove the excess to obtain the second corolla of petals. Continue in the same manner until you reach the centre of the papaya. Suggestion. The fruit carpaccio can be used to prepare sundae glasses with enticing compositions. 45
ITALY ABROAD Many countries have a specific image which identifies its production attitude in the global market. For example, Made in Germany is synonymous with sturdiness and reliability, whereas Made in Japan symbolizes high technology and functionality. And Made in Italy has always expressed excellency regarding creativity, design and quality. image by macrovector_official- Freepik It is an unmistakable brand throughout the world, synonymous with undisputed quality and with creativity at its maximum levels. And in Japan… From prét-à-porter footwear to bicycles and cars, as well as specialty foods and wines, Italian products that bear this title are particularly sought after in every corner of the planet. Often the reasons tourists visit Italy is to discover in-person the locations where Made in Italy products come from, to observe how the products are made, and EVERYBODY MADE IN ITALY image by Freepik 46
Photo by Sistemamanifesto image by Roberto Ravera 47
image by Pino Scaringella ITALY ABROAD image by KamranAydinov-Freepik to connect with the tradition and the culture that created them. And it is difficult to return home without bringing with oneself at least one keepsake. There are countless artisanal and industrial productions that are Made in Italy and that boast international brands and certifications, such as DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata - controlled designation of origin) and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita - controlled and guaranteed designation of origin) wines, or PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) cheeses. Others, such as fabrics, furnishings and clothing accessories are protected by patents that guarantee their uniqueness. Both protection consortia as well as individual producers intervene to guarantee the origin, design and creation of Made in Italy products, whereas independent agencies certify their quality and monitor against adulteration and counterfeiting. Protected by the law Italian Law no. 166/2009 recognized the exclusivity of the 100% Made in Italy label, and it protects it through certification. This certification not only is a status symbol for the product, but it is also an essential declaration for the producer. It can be applied to products from all sectors, and it becomes an integral part of them. Its prestige makes the product unique, and it gives consumers the guarantee of its Italian origins and of the quality of what they are buying. The certification is issued by the Institute for the Protection of Italian Manufacturers, and it complies with all the parameters foreseen by the current legislation: adoption of certification guidelines, definition of procedures, management through forms and records. Producers that have the 100% Made in Italy Certification are subjected to a series of checks to verify that they are respecting the requirements of the law: entire production in Italy, use of Italian materials/ingredients (that must be of top quality), original designs, traditional Italian working methods. In the documentation that they must complete to request it, they provide proof that they meet the requirements. The Institute then carries out an on-site audit to verify the compliance with documented evidence. 48
image by tirachardz-Freepik image by stockking-Freepik Most loved in Japan The Italian agri-food basket exported to Japan is composed of distinct high-quality products located in the high price range. At the top of the ranking, we find excellencies such as extra virgin olive oil, wine, cheeses and cured meats. They are PDO and PGI products, a segment where Italy plays a leading role in Europe not only for the number of certifications it has obtained, but also for its ability to make them a real driving force for its economy and territories. Just think that the Japanese market represents 7% of the Italian olive exports, with peaks of 17% for some of the particularly select oils from the south. Its positioning reflects the strong appreciation of Japanese customers for quality, as well as the excellent perception of Made in Italy goods. Italian wine is considered a second favourite for the country, after French wines, even with the rapid rise of Made in USA wines which holds third place. There is also a boom of Italian cheeses being sold in Japan, a key market for the international expansion of Made in Italy dairy products. Mozzarella plays the leading role as it is the most exported cheese in Japan, followed by Grana Padano, Parmigiano Reggiano andGorgonzola. 49
image by Freepik image by yuya kitada-unsplash ITALY ABROAD Gelato, too Italian cuisine won the hearts of the Japanese a long time ago and the Land of the Rising Sun has often “Japanized” many specialties that combined recipes from the Boot with local ingredients. Italian companies specialized in ingredients for gelato have long since landed in Japan, where they have found partners ready to welcome great artisanal traditions. Even some historic gelato shops have crossed the ocean to open a shop directly in the most populous cities of the country, Tokyo being first. What is offered in the display case is a happy (and sometimes a bit extravagant) marriage of cultures. Next to typical traditional Italian flavours like Stracciatella, chocolate and hazelnut, you can find unique proposals such as corn, purple sweet potatoes and even ramen. 50
image by katemangostar-Freepik Free trade In 2019, the free trade agreement between the European Union and Japan (JEFTA) came into force, thanks to which most entry duties and nearly all the obstacles due to technical regulations that limited growth potential (specifically those regarding food safety, brand protection, and the automotive industry) were eliminated. Food & Beverage is one of the industries that benefits the most fromtheagreement thanks to the elimination of Japanese duties on many products and to the recognition of over two-hundred European geographical indications (PDOs) defined by member states, including 45 Italian ones. Italian Sounding Following the popularity of Made in Italy products, over time a parallel economy has developed, which causes incalculable damages to Italian companies as it steals market shares from protected products. This phenomenon is known as “Italian Sounding”, that is, using geographical names, images and brands that bring to mind Italy to promote and market products that cannot be attributed to Italy. It is the most blatant formof unfair competition, and it misleads consumers, especially in the agri-food industry. In the world, Italian Sounding products generate an estimated revenue of about 54 million euros per year (147 million euros per day), more than double theactual valueof Italianagri-foodexports. At least two thirds of all products sold abroad with assumed Italian origins are only seemingly connected to Italy. 51
RECIPES GELATO WITH RICE By Antonio Mezzalira images by Lisa Fregosi 52
with cream base 50 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 550 g • cream with 35% fat content 110 g • skim milk powder 30 g • sucrose 100 g • dextrose 40 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 50 g • cream base 50 30 g • egg yolk 90 g Total 1000 g with cream base 100 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 550 g • cream with 35% fat content 110 g • skim milk powder 30 g • sucrose 90 g • dextrose 30 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 40 g • cream base 100 60 g • egg yolk 90 g Total 1000 g INSTRUCTIONS Blend well all the ingredients then heat to 85°C in the pasteurization vat. As the mixture cools, use an immersion blender to add the seeds from one vanilla bean and the zest of one lemon for every 4 kg of gelato. At 4°C, extract the mix from vat, then stir in 125 g of cooked Carnaroli rice for every kilogram of mix. Batch freeze then extract the gelato. Decorate with lemon zest, pieces of crumble and two cinnamon sticks. Tortino di riso (Italian rice cake) Carnaroli rice preparation • whole milk 2000 g • Carnaroli rice 500 g • ground cinnamon 20 g • dextrose 600 g Bring milk to a boil. Rinse rice then pour it into the pot with the milk. Wait 15 minutes then add cinnamon and dextrose. Cook rice for about another ten minutes. Taste to see if the rice is cooked, then drain. Reuse any leftover milk for the gelato mix. Blast chill the rice to 4°C and store in the refrigerator at the same temperature. Crumble • 00 wheat flour 220 g • cubed butter at room temperature 200 g • raw cane sugar 100 g • granulated sugar 100 g • salt 2 g • vanilla bean 1 Mix all the ingredients in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Place a steel pastry ring on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Fill ring with the crumble dough that has been freshly prepared in the stand mixer. Bake at 150°C for about ten minutes. Rice, a staple of Japanese cuisine, is a novel ingredient that can be used to create intriguing and light flavours. These recipes include the use of black rice, rich in nutrients and minerals; red rice with antioxidant properties; and Carnaroli rice.These three churned gelatos, ribboned with spiced fresh fruit sauces, are characterized by intense flavours. 53
RECIPES with fruit base 50 INGREDIENTS: • water 660 g • sucrose 120 g • dextrose 80 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 55 g • inulin 50 g • fruit base 50 34 g • salt 1 g Total 1000 g with fruit base 100 INGREDIENTS: • water 660 g • sucrose 110 g • dextrose 75 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 45 g • inulin 40 g • fruit base 100 69 g • salt 1 g Total 1000 g Add 1 g of bay leaf to every kg of gelato INSTRUCTIONS Blend well all the ingredients (except the bay leaf which will be added later), then heat to 85°C in the pasteurization vat. Once the mix has been pasteurized, cool it to 4°C. Add crushed bay leaves and let steep at 4°C covered in the refrigerator for at least twenty-four hours. Strain, then add 125 g of cooked whole grain red rice. Stir into the mix without blending. Pour the mix into the blast freezer and start the freezing program. Extract the sorbet and ribbon with mixed berry sauce. Decorate with bay leaves. Red forest Mixed berry sauce • mixed berries 2000 g • inverted sugar 1400 g • apple pectin 40 g • sucrose sugar 200 g • dry glucose 30 DE 150 g • lemon juice 30 g • xanthan gum 2 g Heat whole berries and inverted sugar to 96°C. Mix well pectin, xanthan gum, sucrose and glucose then add to berry mixture when it reaches 65°C; lastly, add the lemon juice, then cool to 4°C. Use after one day of rest. The sauce can be stored in the refrigerator at 4°C. Whole grain red rice preparation • water 2000 g • whole grain red rice 500 g • dextrose 600 g • salt 4 g Bring water to a boil then add red rice. Wait forty minutes then add dextrose and salt. Cook rice for another thirty minutes. Taste to see if the rice grains are soft, otherwise continue cooking. Drain. Blast chill rice to 4°C and store in the refrigerator at the same temperature. 54
with fruit base 50 INGREDIENTS: • water 660 g • sucrose 120 g • dextrose 80 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 55 g • inulin 50 g • fruit base 50 34 g • salt 1 g • chili peppers to taste Total 1000 g with fruit base 100 INGREDIENTS: • water 660 g • sucrose 110 g • dextrose 75 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 45 g • inulin 40 g • fruit base 100 69 g • salt 1 g • chili peppers to taste Total 1000 g INSTRUCTIONS Blend well all the ingredients (except the chili peppers), then heat to 65°C in the pasteurization vat. Once the mix has been pasteurized, cool it to 4°C. Add finely chopped fresh chili peppers and the previously cooked black rice. Stir well without blending. Pour mix into the blast freezer and start the freezing program. Extract the sorbet and ribbon with mango sauce. Add fresh red chilis to the gelato pan. Kalì Whole grain black rice preparation • water 2000 g • whole grain black rice 500 g • dextrose 600 g • salt 4 g Bring water to a boil then add black rice. Wait forty minutes then add dextrose and salt. Cook the rice for about another twenty minutes. Taste to see if the rice grains are soft, otherwise continue cooking until soft. Drain. Blast chill to 4°C and store in refrigerator at the same temperature. Mango sauce • mango puree 2000 g • inverted sugar 1400 g • apple pectin 40 g • sucrose syrup 200 g • dry glucose 30 DE 150 g • lemon juice 30 g • xanthan gum 2 g Heat mango puree and inverted sugar to 96°C. Mix well pectin, xanthan gum, sucrose and glucose then add to mango mixture when it reaches 65°C; lastly, add lemon juice, then let cool to 4°C. Use after one day of rest. The sauce can be stored in the refrigerator at 4°C. 55
RECIPES SOFT GELATO TAKE-OUT By Alice Vignoli Images by Studio Phototecnica 56
It is necessary to carefully introduce the take-off softener. Looking at the composition, there are no reference percentages totally different from the pulse soft product. In general, the product is higher in solids and in single recipes the flavouring ingredient is increased in order to be clearly perceived at the service temperature of -14/-18°C. How to overcome this great gelato service gap, -4/-6°C of a freezing 45% at -14/-18°C of a gelato takeaway? Once identified that the enemy who makes the cold in the gelato is the total water of the recipe, you can intervene on two parameters: the overrun and the percentage of total recipe solid. Increasing the absolute value of both parameters decreases automatically the available water space in the recipe. The service temperature of the soft gelato to take away at -14/-18°C allows this product to be stocked and sold in a totally different way from the traditional pulse soft gelato, to the advantage of shelf life that extends considerably. One of the major advantages of producing soft portions is the versatility of making different subjects across the same line, just as it happens in catering. The products can then be completed at different times, depending on the needs of the counter. For a gelato maker, the possibility of planning the production of gelato for takeaway several days a month is important not to overload the laboratory daily with other productions in addition to the gelato and to have always “semi-pasta” different pastries, mignon up to pie. They also offer a good profitability, since they are sold on a piece and not by weight. Soft gelato to take away is a great business opportunity for the artisan. It also offers the advantage of being able to plan the production. SOFT TO TAKE AWAY BALANCE PARAMETERS Ingredients From To Sugars 19% 24% Fats 7% 11% Lean milk solids 8% 11% Other solids 0% 5% Total solids 38% 45% 57
Savory RECIPES Mini cannoli filled with savory soft gelato and served as finger food for buffets or aperitifs COMPOSITION • Neutral-flavored cannoli • Savory soft gelato of your choice • Bamboo finger food sticks • Roasted peanuts • Cocoa beans • Candied lemon peel 1. Dispense the savory soft gelato directly into the cannoli using the portioning accessory. 2. Once the cannolo has hardened in the blast freezer cut it in half with a diagonal slice. 3. Insert a finger food stick in the slanted end. 2. 1. 3. 58
4. On the outside of the cannolo apply a savoury mousse. 5. Add some crunch with peanuts, beans, or lemon peel as desired. 6. Place on trays and serve without waiting for them to warm up, or store them at -18°C. 5. 4. 6. 59
image by Giorgia Doglioni TESTIMONIALS by Giorgia Doglioni It all started in 2013 with Gerry’s idea to move with a friend to Guadeloupe, in the Caribbean, after having worked in the artisanal gelato sector. Since the island is part of Europe, the administrative process to open a food establishment is much simpler. And so, a small gelato shop on the beaches of Sainte-Anne was born, where true Italian-style artisanal gelato is made “like in the good old days”. Things go well for the business so, in 2015, his sister Sylvie together with her husband Cristian decide to leave Italy and join Gerry. In this way they can share a magnificent adventure where Italian gelato is king. They decide to move the shop to the main street of the city. The inhabitants of the island didn’t know what true Italian-style gelato was. They were convinced that Gelato “à l’italienne” (as they still call it) was soft serve. Despite this small initial Gerry and Sylvie’s gelato shop rests in a dreamy location and in its ten years of business, it has become an authentic point of reference for those with a sweet tooth in Guadeloupe. Under the Caribbean sun 60
cultural obstacle, Gerry and Sylvie’s gelato quickly starts to win over the residents of Sainte-Anne. After two years of hard work 7 days a week, the Gelato shop changes its look. Gerry and Sylvie purchase an old house on the main street. They renovate it and convert part of it into a gelato shop, which has an amazing large 80-square-metre terrace: the ideal place to welcome, spoil and take care of their clients. The name, Gelato E Cappuccino Maitre Glacier Italien, was not just randomly chosen. In addition to the gelato, they also offer the prized illy-brand coffee in whole beans, used to make an exquisite cappuccino. Gerry and Sylvie truly are ambassadors of Italy’s gelato and coffee culture in Guadeloupe! They also offer breakfast options and homemade sweets that can be easily enjoyed on their terrace. 61
TESTIMONIALS Only natural ingredients The production is rigorously artisanal, and it starts with the bases created by Gerry and Sylvie. They do not use ready-made bases as it is against their idea of “true artisanal gelato”. They use mostly local products, especially fresh fruit purchased directly from the local market. Gerry and Sylvie’s research and development activities are focused on the continuous search for new flavours made with typical fruit from Guadeloupe such as dragon fruit, soursop, papaya, avocado, mammee... They also heavily use flowers, including shell ginger (which the locals use in infusion to make an herbal tea) and red sorrel (a variety of hibiscus). 62
Shell ginger in particular is considered an “elixir for long life”. This flower is rich with properties that are anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antipyretic, antioxidant, diuretic; it also regulates blood pressure and resolves gastrointestinal issues... it is easy to say that a scoop of this gelato is not only good for the body but also for the soul! As for their cream-based flavours, their latest developments include black sesame, pralines, cashews and salted caramel. Guadeloupe is famous for its rum: this is why it is never missing from the shop’s offer. It is used to make a rum raisin flavour and a rum chocolate one. These two specialties are highly requested, and their secret lies in the use of Damoiseau rum aged 7 years, characterized by its smooth flavour. Other flavours that are always present in the display case are vanilla, chocolate, peanut, ginger, coconut (made with fresh local coconut), mango, green lemon and a papaya and passion fruit mix. Gerry and Sylvie even make their own cones. They are prepared fresh every morning and are available in three different sizes. 63
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy MTE3NTA0