Sweetmood No34 - May 2023

Paolo Griffa - The freeze in the mountain garden Directly from nature Paolo Griffa, chef at Caffè Nazionale (Aosta), was inspired by nature’s fruits for his dish “The freeze in the mountain garden”. Starting by observing the effects of winter freezes on farming, fundamental for the texture and properties of vegetables, he created a composition made with deer tartar, beets, Brussel sprouts, a purple cabbage and mustard sauce, and a defrosted kohlrabi, that is, a kakigori made with icy kohlrabi. The Japanese dessert, kakigori, provided an effect that made it seem like tasting flakes of snow. It was as if to say that gelato isn’t only the churned type. 21

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