Citrus also plays an important role, farmed and crossbred amongst themselves; the juice, zest and peel were used. Sardinians were so skilled that they were able to make appetizing even fruits that were inedible when raw; this is the case for “sa pompia”, a type of citrus that today has been rediscovered in the pastry arts and in mixology. Decorations tend to continuously reference wedding cakes, even though with a rustic appearance; plant- and bird-shaped forms symbolize rebirth, the cycle of life, good luck, and nature’s fertility. The salvaged fruit “Sa pompia” is a fruit plant with an uncertain history. It is probably a cross between citron and grapefruit, but others believe it is a type of citron or a cross between citron and lemon. Due to the lack of documents, it is impossible to establish if it is a Sardinian plant or if it was imported from other countries. Legend has it that it comes from the period of Alexander the Great’s disastrous expedition to Asia. Today, it is cultivated in Siniscola, a Slow Food Presidium; it is used in the pastry arts to make desserts, as well as to produce liquors and cocktails. Harvesting the fruit is done by hand around mid-November until January. Being that it is very tart, to make it edible, the rind was cooked in wine or honey before it was eaten. Flavours from our memory It is difficult to codify Sardinian recipes. The same ingredients and techniques correspond to an endless collection of names, shapes, flavours and uses, each depending on the different areas on the island. It isn’t easy to find recipe books. Each family has its own recipe, passed on from generation to generation. One common trait of Sardinian’s sweet arts is its connection with farmer’s and shepherd’s traditions. There were sweets made to be eaten nearly every day, as well as those only for special occasions, simple in their image by Maddalena Goddi 35
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