CONTENTS Editorial 18 Contributors 20 In partnership with 22 Bruno Vanzan the challenge of quality drinking 26 Style icons 32 Gelato cocktails 34 PuntoItaly wire 38 Let’s think out of the box 44 Digital mind 48 Freya’s AI-mazing Christmas 52 Overcoming the rules 56 Paprika shapes 60 The Companies 64 32 48 56 60 34 THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 13 - No. 38 - JULY 2024 - € 1.00 16
EDITORIAL THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 13 - No. 38 - JULY 2024 - € 1.00 These are definitely complicated times: Europe in perpetual anxiety over an ongoing war between Russia and Ukraine that sees no end; the Middle East in flames with significant consequences on everything, from commerce to international trade; a suffering economy. Despite all this, Made in Italy products are successful everywhere and their prestige is growing throughout the world. Specifically in the food industry, Italian specialties are in great demand and valued, even if they are often imitated or counterfeited unfortunately. With our puntoItaly magazine, we participated firsthand in several international exhibitions which took place during the first half of the year. Starting with Sigep in Rimini, we went on to be present at Gelatissimo in Stuttgart, Expo Sweet in Warsaw, Alimentaria in Barcelona and FHA in Singapore. A virtuous journey to promote Italian artisanal confectionaries through the industry protagonists: gelato chefs, pastry chefs, bartenders, chefs de cuisine and, of course, companies in the industry. In this new issue, we dedicate our cover and opening article to a well-known bartender, Bruno Vanzan, who has a futuristic and passionate vision of a trend-setting profession. We will continue our tour of tradeshows and events, with our next top being Südback in Germany, followed by Roma Food Excel in the Italian capital city. Follow us and come visit us, as always at the tradeshows or online at www.puntoitaly.org Made in Italy is trending around the world! 18
CONTRIBUTORS Pierpaolo Magni Master gelato chef Antonio Mezzalira Master gelato maker Eugenio Morrone Master gelato maker Alice Vignoli Master gelato maker Federica Serva Reporter Riccardo Magni Master gelato chef Bruno Vanzan Bartender puntoITALY Milan – Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Six-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 13 - No. 38 - July 2024 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca, Patrick Hopkins Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv srl - Milano Editrade srl – Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - 20133 Milan, I Tel. +39 02 70004960 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Pentagraf - Bernate Ticino (Milan, I) Cover Alberto Miranda All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. 20
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH ALVENA DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 2 98280138 www.alvena.it info@alvena.it ANSELMI DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.anselmi1892.com ACCADEMIA BIGATTON Tel. (+39) 421 271554 www.accademiabigatton.com info@accademiabigatton.com BABBI Tel. (+39) 543 448598 babbi.com info@babbi.it BIGATTON PRODUZIONE Tel. (+39) 421 271554 www.bigatton.com bigatton@bigatton.com BRAVO Tel. (+39) 444 707700 www.bravo.it info@bravo.it CAFFÉ MILANI Tel. (+39) 31 280778 www.caffemilani.it info@caffemilani.it CARPIGIANI Tel. (+39) 51 6505111 www.carpigiani.com info@carpigiani.it CARTOPRINT Tel. (+39) 2 96399911 www.cartoprint.com infocartoprint@sedagroup.org CIAM Tel. (+39) 075 80161 www.ciamweb.it info@ciamgroup.it COLALUCCI Tel. (+39) 6 92099203 www.colalucci.it info@colalucci.it COMPRITAL Tel. (+39) 2 95770829 www.comprital.com comprital@comprital.com CONI PERFETTO Tel. (+39) 81 5050033 www.coniperfetto.it info@coniperfetto.it DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333 600 www.disaronnoingredients.com info@disaronnoingredients.com EXPO SWEET Tel. (+48) 22 4659623 www.exposweet.pl ezig@exposweet.pl FABBRI 1905 Tel. (+39) 51 6173111 www.fabbri1905.com commerciale@fabbri1905.com FRIGOMAT Tel. (+39) 377 415011 www.frigomat.com frigomat@frigomat.com FRUCTITAL Tel. (+39) 121 56587 www.fructital.it sales@fructital.it FUGAR Tel. (+39) 541 679470 www.fugar.it fugar@fugar.it GELATITALIA Tel. (+39) 35 4824335 www.gelatitalia.it info@gelatitalia.it GELDUE Tel. (+39) 51 6132910 www.geldue.it info@geldue.it 22
GRANULATI ITALIA Tel. (+39) 35 4824335 www.comeiltiramisu.com info@comeiltiramisu.com ICAM Tel. (+39) 31 6346101 www.icamprofessionale.com info@icamprofessionale.it I-CONICA Tel. (+39) 55 3870097 www.i-conica.it commerciale@microandi.it IMBALLAGGI ALIMENTARI Tel. (+39) 577 660353 www.imballaggialimentari.it info@imballaggialimentari.it ITAL DAIRY Tel. (+971) 547043074 www.italdairy.com info@italdairy.com ITALPROGET Tel. (+39) 75 987038 www.italproget.it info@italproget.it LEAGEL Tel. (+378) 549 999435 www.leagel.com info@leagel.com MARTINI GELATO - UNIGRÀ Tel. (+39) 545 989511 www.martiniprofessional.it info@martiniprofessional.it MEC3 Tel. (+39) 541 859411 www.mec3.com mec3@mec3.it MEDAC Tel. (+39) 89 301466 www.medac.it info@medac.it MIG Tel. (+39) 437 577577 www.mostradelgelato.com fiera@longaronefiere.it MONTEBIANCO DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.montebiancogelato.com info@montebiancogelato.com NUTMAN GROUP Tel. (+39) 141 835225 www.nutman-group.com info@nutman-group.com ORG. VITTORIO CASELLI TEL. (+39) 55 284292 www.caselli.it caselliorg@caselli.it PREGEL Tel. (+39) 522 394211 www.pregel.com info@pregel.it ROMA FOOD EXCEL Tel. (+39) 6 6634333 romafoodexcel.it info@romafoodexcel.it SIGEP Tel. (+39) 541 74111 www.sigep.it helpdesk.rn@iegexpo.it STELLA DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.prodottistella.com info@prodottistella.com SÜDBACK Tel. (+49) 711 185600 suedback.de info@messe-stuttgart.de TADDIA Tel. (+39) 51 944973 www.taddia.com info@taddia.com TORRONALBA Tel. (+39) 173 361140 www.torronalba.com torronalba@torronalba.com UNIGEL Tel. (+39) 35 883154 www.unigelitalia.com info@unigelitalia.com IN PARTNERSHIP WITH 24
INTERVIEW by Federica Serva - images by Alberto Miranda the challenge of quality drinking Bruno Vanzan 26
How would you define Bruno Vanzan in one sentence? The definition I like the most right now is the following: “I earned the title of World Champion bartender twice, I founded BV Holding and I am an entrepreneur who today believes in quality drinking in all of its aspects”. Which have been the most significant stages of your professional growth? One always starts out in the trenches. My journey as a young man, when I was 16-17 years old in a bar in the outskirts, shaped not only my professional life but also my character. I learned that I would need to make many sacrifices and have lots of passion and dedication to reach my goals. Nonetheless, if I may mention some important milestones, they include the first World Championships that I won in 2008, then the intense period when I lived between Africa and the United States. It allowed me to enter the prestigious list of the top ten barman in the world in 2010. There were also many other important events that all contributed to a significant journey. With his constant passion along with his amazing track record of victories and experiences, he dedicates himself to training and to the culture of quality drinking. Which cocktail are you most attached to? I am most attached to not one but three cocktails. Sushi Martini, which won the IBA World Championships in 2016, represents my last competition, so there is a special connection. Iovem&- Tonic, a signature drink with salt foam created for the launch of my first liqueur, represents my new entrepreneurial life in 2019. Moka Martini, a drink prepared with Black Sinner, a coffee-flavoured liqueur, represents my second liqueur in 2023 and celebrates the Espresso Martini made Italian style. 27
INTERVIEW agement courses regarding bars and more; enthusiasts, for those who are not professional bartenders, but want to learn and quench their thirst for knowledge through concepts, stories and special tastings connected to the cocktail world. Do you have any new projects in the pipeline? Absolutely, as I always have for about fifteen years now. In October, we will open a private bar in our headquarters. It will be a truly fascinating experience that I will be talking about in the next few months. The greatest project that I am working on is a project on inclusion. I am working on making the first workstation for people with disabilities allowing them to work in this profession even if they are in a wheelchair, something that is not possible today. Just a few months ago, the new headquarters of the Bruno Vanzan Academy were opened in Sesto San Giovanni (Milan, Italy). What activities are held in this centre? The Bruno Vanzan Academy was established with the goal to become the point of reference for education internationally, but especially for Italy. The school was created by uniting three fundamental aspects: technology, design and people. For me, it is fundamental that these three elements mix well together, just like in a true drink, to offer the most, both from an educational point of view as well as regarding the experience one has here. The Academy serves three profiles: professionals, who aim to execute this job in the most professional manner possible; managers, who desire to grow with man28
Has out-of-home cocktail consumption increased? What are the latest trends for ingredients and recipes? Out-of-home consumption has grown, and it is probably done in a more conscious way. The pandemic and post-pandemic times have made an important impact on our lives. The Italian-style aperitivo is trending, which is everything that encompasses the world of conviviality, so bitters, vermouth, historic recipes and spritz, which is a bit of the king right now. On one hand, consumption is linked to the classic ritual of being together and enjoying cocktails. On the other hand, research in mixology by restaurants and hotels is happening. In the past, they did not dedicate that much attention to beverages. Another trend is low-alcohol options, because quality drinking and drinking well do not have to mean drinking hard. This is a very important message to be transmitted. How much has the search for pairing food and drinks grown? From my point of view, food pairing has never existed because it can be very subjective. Just like between chefs, also so among bartenders, there are those that have learned to give value to ingredients and they always try to do that, which wasn’t a very common habit until now. What the Earth offers us is elaborated through research, development and techniques to create exceptional ingredients to be used in cocktails. What developments could be used in the pastry world? The world of pastry represents, in my opinion, the maximum expression of refinement and precision. All the ingredients must be precisely measured to 29
INTERVIEW create sweets, and I too have a particular sweet tooth. Pastry and cocktails would truly signal an important step in the terms of garnishing. We make many preparations that come from the pastry world to make our cocktails look nice, sometimes with a special “wow” effect. For example, chocolate with all its different types can be used with moulds to obtain geometric or innovative shapes, making attractive garnishes. What we should all learn a little bit from the pastry world is precision. Can the gelato shop represent a new frontier for mixology? For me, gelato is not a new frontier. About ten years ago I was a consultant for a chain of gelato shops in Croatia whose core business was offering gelato-based cocktails. I do not think gelato can be the main ingredient in mixology. It can, however, stimulate creativity by revisiting classic drinks during the warmest months. What future do you see for mixology in Italy? Mixology is a growing career since consumers are no longer interested just in what they are drinking but also in the story, the knowledge. They desire to understand what’s behind the tradition. I foresee a great return to simplicity, to our origins. We need to give value to our history, for example, up until the end of the 1700s, Italy dictated the trends and consumptions of the Italian-style happy hour, but even before that if we think about how the Ancient Romans used a fortified wine, known as “mulsum” (a wine-based drink with honey, editor’s note). Mixology’s future in Italy is bright because we are creative people with a rich culinary tradition. Our country lives of tourism. Those who visit Italy do so not only to enjoy our cuisine and our wine, but also to enjoy our 30
cocktails. We need to be conscious of this and responsible, and thus raise the bar with premium products so that bars all over Italy can serve high-quality cocktails that (and this is a small message) don’t just serve a barman’s personal flair but that respond to people’s preferences. What is the role of a bartender today in guiding responsible drinking? Knowledge. Everything must go through our knowledge. We cannot guide responsible drinking if we do not know what we are doing. The fundamental importance of education stems from this. Too many people just wing it. Furthermore, we need to give more stimulus to a generation oriented towards other professions. Today, there is no longer that desire to be a bartender due to the sacrifices one has to make in their private life. I will continue to fight until this profession is made public, is supported and is also “risen up”, elevated by a series of professionals that inspire new generations by their behaviour and by their results. Guiding others is an act of love and responsibility. Before we can guide others, we must first guide ourselves. When we are able to guide ourselves into knowledge, only then we can give advice to others. This is a very, very important step, otherwise we risk having others do what in fact we don’t even know how to do ourselves. 31
RECIPES STYLE ICONS By Bruno Vanzan Signature drinks by Bruno Vanzan which represent innovation in the way of drinking, thanks to the surprising combination of ingredients and an elegant presentation. 32
INGREDIENTS: • Iovem liqueur 5 cl • premium tonic water 10 cl • salt foam DECORATION Multicoloured limes TECHNIQUE Build FLAVOUR PROFILE sweet: 4 out of 10 acidic: 3 out of 10 bitter: 2 out of 10 ALCOHOL BY VOLUME: 4,5% INSTRUCTIONS To make this drink, it is built directly in the glass, specifically a tall tumbler which has ideally already been chilled. If it is not possible to chill the glass previously, chill it by filling it up with ice cubes. Take the glass, fill it to the brim with ice, pour the Iovem liqueur first, then the premium tonic water. With a bar spoon, stir from the bottom to the top of the glass, mixing the ingredients well. Add a few more ice cubes and top the drink with the specifically created salt foam. Garnish with multicoloured lime. World Champion Cocktail at IBA 2016 in Tokyo INGREDIENTS: • gin 4 cl • lychee syrup 2 cl • cold-extracted mango juice 3 cl • fresh lemon juice 2 cl • basil leaves 3 • wasabi 2 g • soy sauce 1 drop DECORATION Hosomaki and rice wafer TECHNIQUE Shake & Strain Purple Tonic with Salt Foam Sushi Martini FLAVOUR PROFILE sweet: 5 out of 10 acidic: 3 out of 10 bitter: 1 out of 10 ALCOHOL BY VOLUME: 11% INSTRUCTIONS Pour all the ingredients into a chilled shaker. Fill the shaker to the brim with ice, close it, and vigorously shake it for about 7-10 seconds. Open it and strain the liquid into a chilled champagne glass, with the help of a strainer and a fine mesh strainer (a technique referred to as a Double Strain). Decorate with a “festival” decoration, made with homosaki, banana leaves and chopsticks. 33
RECIPES GELATO COCKTAILS By Antonio Mezzalira Whether it is gelato or sorbet, these ideas to diversify the offer in the display case will spark the curiosity of the clients. And if you make these recipes even more original by adding some alcohol, happy hour will become a truly unforgettable moment. 34
with fruit base 50 INGREDIENTS: • Campari liqueur 60 g • orange juice 480 g • lemon juice 10 g • water 200 g • sucrose 100 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 85 g • fruit base 50 35 g • inulin 30 g Total 1000 g with fruit base 100 INGREDIENTS: • Campari liqueur 60 g • orange juice 480 g • lemon juice 10 g • water 200 g • sucrose 90 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 70 g • fruit base 100 70 g • inulin 20 g Total 1000 g Add the zest of half an orange to the Campari liqueur. INSTRUCTIONS Juice the oranges and zest the peel, making sure to not grate the pith. Mix the base with the sugars, then blend these dry ingredients with the water. Cool the mixture to 4°C, add the lemon and orange juice, then blend. Pour into batch freezer and start the freezing cycle. Add the Campari liqueur with the orange zest during the last phase of freezing. Extract the sorbet and blast freeze for 5 minutes. Then place in display case set a -11°/-12°C. Garibaldi 35
RECIPES with cream base 50 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 535 g • cream with 35% fat content 120 g • skim milk powder 50 g • sucrose 75 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 75 g • cream base 50 35 g • coconut paste 60 g • tequila 20 g • white rum 20 g • lemon juice 10 g Total 1000 g with cream base 100 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 535 g • cream with 35% fat content 120 g • skim milk powder 40 g • sucrose 65 g Coco Loco • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 60 g • cream base 100 70 g • coconut paste 60 g • tequila 20 g • white rum 20 g • lemon juice 10 g Total 1000 g INSTRUCTIONS Mix all the ingredients together except for the coconut paste, alcohol and lemon juice, then heat to 85°C. The coconut paste should be added when the mixture is at 4°C. Add the mixture to the batch freezer and start the freezing cycle. During the final phase, slowly add the mixture of rum, tequila and lemon juice. Extract the gelato, while adding ribbons of coconut flakes. Blast freeze for 5 minutes then transfer to display case set at -11°/-12°C after having decorated with slices of lemon, if desired. 36
with fruit base 50 INGREDIENTS: • water 200 g • blonde German beer 400 g • lemon juice 75 g • sucrose 120 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 120 g • fruit base 50 35 g • inulin 50 g Total 1000 g with fruit base 100 INGREDIENTS: • water 200 g • blonde German beer 400 g • lemon juice 75 g • sucrose 110 g • dry glucose syrup 30 DE 110 g • fruit base 100 70 g • inulin 35 g Total 1000 g Radler INSTRUCTIONS Blend all the ingredients except the beer and the lemon juice. Pour the mixture into the pasteurizer and heat to 65°C, then cool to 4°C (if the base does not need to be heated to a certain temperature, blend all the ingredients to make the mixture smooth and uniform, then proceed to batch freeze). Pour mixture into blast freezer and with help of a mixer, pour in the lemon juice with lime zest. Add the beer during the last phase of freezing to avoid damaging the structure of the gelato. Slowly pour in 5 g of rice bran oil or sunflower seed oil to avoid the formation of any beer foam. 37
By Davide Pini FAIRS TOUR SIGEP Rimini (Italy), January 20 - 24 One aspect that always stands out while walking through the stands of Sigep is the international environment that you can feel. After all, it only takes a quick look at the official data provided by the organizer Italian Exhibition Group to realize that the profile of visitors and exhibitors is increasingly projected towards a global exchange. The 45th edition of the exhibition saw the participation of professional operators from 160 countries. There were one thousand two hundred exhibiting brands with booths and more than 5 thousand business meetings were held with over five hundred top buyers arriving from 84 countries. This confirms the key role A chronicle of the trade fairs visited by puntoItaly during its travels abroad. A first-hand reportage of meetings, emotions, and experiences. puntoItaly wire Sigep plays in the sweet foodservice world, with its complete offer of products and technologies for gelato, pastry, bakery, coffee and chocolate. Sigep 2024 saw the return of the biennial Gelato World Cup competition. You can understand our emotions when the jury announced the winner of this tenth edition: the Italian team. The team, consisting of Vincenzo Donnarumma, Rosario Nicodemo, Filippo Valsecchi, Domenico di Clemente and Davide Malizia, excelled over the other ten nations in the race. Second and third place went respectively to South Korea and Hungary. Danilo Cinelli won the title of Best Gelato Artisan of the year 2024 during the contest organized by the Italian Gelato Artisans Association and he won the “Lorenzo Cagnoni Memorial – A thousand ideas for a new flavour” competition. In the historic “Alberto Pica Memorial - stracciatella gelato flavour”, the gold medal went to Alessandro Squatrito. The fiftieth stop of Gelato Festival World Masters, the worldwide travelling competition that will end in 38
2025, saw the French flag on the top podium with Sacha Copigneaux. GELATISSIMO Stuttgart (Germany), February 3 - 7 It is always a pleasure to travel to Stuttgart, a city that is famous not only for its noteworthy economic vocation oriented towards the automobile industry (Mercedes-Benz and Porsche were born in this area) but also for its centuries-old history enclosed in a centre full of charm. Gelatissimo, which took place simultaneously with Intergastra as usual, returned this year after a forced interruption in 2022 due to the last remnants of the pandemic. Thus, we joined the large crowds (over 85 thousand visitors from over 98 nations) to experience firsthand the varied offer on exhibit, including everything necessary to produce and sell gelato along with the furnishings for the point of sales. The Senior Italian Pastry Championship was won by Marco Deidda, whereas the Junior Italian Pastry Championship saw Giuseppe Bonfiglio triumph. The 17th edition of Comunicando, the prize promoted by our publishing house Editrade and reserved for the best communication campaigns in the industry, saw I.CO. Cialde as the overall winner as it was awarded the “Unica 2023” award. Other awards were given to Disaronno Ingredients, Ipsa and Elenka (Best Visuals), Carpigiani, Frascheri and Leagel (Best Copywriting), Fugar, Mec3 and Valmar (Best Creativity), Nutman, PreGel, Unigrà Martini Gelato (Digital Strategy). Special Brand Awards went to Babbi, Fondazione Carlo Mendozzi and Casa Optima. The award ceremony was preceded by a video dedicated to the twenty years of Editrade and of the puntoIT magazine. The next edition of Sigep is scheduled for January 18 – 22, 2025. 39
FAIRS TOUR Among the most prominent trends, this year once again attention to the health aspect of food was important: vegan, organic, gluten-free and no added sugar ingredients have entered the product ranges of companies in this industry. During Gelatissimo, we participated in many workshops held by the best gelato maestros in Europe, and we witnessed the passionate competitions. Among these, the fifth edition of the Grand Prix, won by Angelika Doriana earning the “Gelatissimo Cup”, and the first edition of Intercoppa, which saw Cornelia Chila climb to the top step of the podium. The Robert Widmann Cup, dedicated to young pastry chefs, had the theme “Casino” this year. The individual competition was won by Svenja Mielke with her cake decorated with dice and poker chips, whereas the couple’s competition was won by Sandra Haberer and Marie Niederreiter, who created an elegant female cigar smoker sitting at a casino table. At the PuntoDe magazine stand, which is published by our publishing house Editrade, two lifetime achievement awards were given to gelato chefs Sergio Dondoli and Dario Fontanella. The idea of this award was born from a collaboration between Editrade, Italcam (the Italian-German Chamber of Commerce) and the Gelatissimo team. During the event, Massimiliano Lagi, Italian Consul General in Stuttgart, Alessandro Marino, general secretary of Italcam and Stefan Lohnert, CEO of Messe Stuttgart, presented and congratulated the two gelato chefs for their work in the industry. The 26th edition of the IKA Culinary Olympics, promoted by the German Chefs Association, saw over 1200 competitors from 55 nations compete. The title of Olympic champion of the national teams was given to Finland, whereas Sweden won the junior chefs category. The gold medal for “cold cuisine” went to the South Korean team, whereas the Italian team took gold in the “Restaurant of the country” award, silver in Chef’s Table and bronze for Community Catering. Gelatissimo 2026 is scheduled for February 7-11. 40
EXPO SWEET Warsaw (Poland), February 25 - 28 Here we are again in Warsaw for the now habitual annual appointment with the biggest Polish pastry and gelato tradeshow. The 2024 edition was considered by the organizers as a record-breaking one: over 20 thousand visitors and 150 exhibitors which included the main European companies from the dessert, bakery and HoReCa worlds. Three huge pavilions were completed packed. An area was dedicated to highly creative decorations for desserts, a symbol of the capabilities of local professionals. The exhibition has progressively grown over the years and today it is a true centre of skills, where high-level chefs and pastry chefs offer live demos and training sessions. Different competitions took place: theChampionship of Poland in Dessert Preparation, the Polish Championship of Students of Confectionery Schools, and the Confectionery Decoration Competition. The spectacular demonstrations by world champions Renata Martyna and Angelika Chwyć took the crowd’s breath away. Both were awarded the “2023 Cake Designers World Championship” in Milan, Italy. The next edition of Expo Sweet is scheduled for February 16-19, 2025. 41
FAIRS TOUR ALIMENTARIA & HOSTELCO Barcelona (Spain), March 18 - 21 Yet again, Alimentaria has confirmed its role at the forefront of the food & beverage, foodservice and hospitality equipment industries. The trends showed the proposal of more sustainable and healthy products, which was confirmed by the artificial intelligence and robotics solutions for the HoReCa industry. In a space of nearly 100 thousand square meters, the exhibition was divided into thirteen areas to make the visit more practical. Among these Snacks, Biscuits & Confectionery, Fine Foods (gourmet products), Organic Foods, Coffee, Bakery & Pastry, Alimentaria Trends, which included quickly growing segments such as vegetarian, vegan, free-from, halal and functional food products. Hostelco hosted an articulated offer of equipment, products, services and technological solutions dedicated to the restaurant, hotel and catering industries. More than 3.200 exhibiting companies from 68 countries participated in the event, with a large presence of Italian companies. About 107.900 professionals attended, with 25 percent coming from 120 countries. For the director of Alimentaria J. Antonio Valls, “This edition demonstrated how attractive this event is, which has returned to its pre-pandemic numbers and attracted buyers from strategic countries such as China. The event has confirmed itself as one of the main international business events in the industry”. The next edition will take place in two years, scheduled for March 23-26, 2026. 42
FHA - Food & Beverage Singapore, April 23 - 26 Temperatures much higher than those we were used to in Italy (over 30°C) welcomed us when we arrived in Singapore, and they accompanied us throughout the exhibition. But the weather was not a surprise for us, since we have been participating in this show for years now. Overall, there were four days of dynamic B2B exchanges, with over 1600 exhibitors and over 72 thousand visitors from 91 countries. Ms. Low Yen Ling, Deputy Minister of Commerce and Industry, declared: “The strong participation rate from local and global exhibitors demonstrates how Singapore continues to be a vibrant centre of trade and business for the territory’s F&B industry”. The Hosted Buyer program attracted over 350 international professionals, who took part in six thousand meetings with exhibitors. This year’s edition also represented a virtuous example of environmental sustainability. The organizers made it known that over 11.680 square metres of carpeting were not used in the hallways: a choice that saved over 33 tons of carbon emissions and over nine tons of trash to be disposed of. Furthermore, 450 kg of used cooking oil were collected, which will be converted into biodiesel. Lastly, the collaboration with a local specialized company allowed for the recycling of more than 10 tons of wood coming from the booths, platforms and furniture. FHA-Food & Beverage will return April 8-11, 2025, greener than ever. 43
RECIPES LET’S THINK OUT OF By Alice Vignoli Images by Studio Phototecnica 44
Caipirinha and strawberry THE BOX The use of alcoholic or wellness ingredients can help give a touch of exclusivity to soft gelato. Here’s how to make this artisanal specialty a summer alternative to the more usual cold drinks. INGREDIENTS QUANTITY (G) SUGARS (G) SUGARS (%) Strawberry (edible pulp) 731 58 8% Cachaca 40 16 40% Lime juice 15 1 5% Sugar 164 164 100% Dextrose 45 41 92% Neutral 5 stabilizer cold method 5 0 0% Total solids 1000 280 28% In the gelato shop alcohol is seen as an enemy of good texture as it performs a strong antifreeze action, but if appropriately balanced in a soft gelato recipe it can add an intriguing aftertaste. In this sorbet the quantity of the distillate is not excessive and therefore pleasing even for those who aren’t specifically looking for a gelato with alcohol. Soft gelato based on Caipirinha can be used as is in single portions or portioned into silicone moulds of various shapes, to then be used as a special ingredient for cocktails, cakes, or sundaes. 45
Nutraceutical sorbet RECIPES The preparation of this nutraceutical sorbet is the same as for other soft sorbets, you just have to remember that a few hours before its use it is necessary to place the mint leaves in infusion in the celery juice that has already been acidified with the lime juice. Before adding the rest of the ingredients you should filter and remove the mint leaves. The rest of the process remains unchanged. The added value of this nutraceutical sorbet is in its versatility of use. It can be portioned into the bottom of cups and used as an ingredient ready for use in freshly made juices, frozen in mini-sticks to be served in restaurants as a sorbet half way though the meal, or in the gelato shop as a fresh and tasty sorbet with a nutraceutical value. INGREDIENTS QUANTITY (G) SUGARS (G) SUGARS (%) Celery juice 645 13 2% Lime juice 60 3 5% Sugar 230 230 100% Dextrose 60 55 92% Neutral 5 stabilizer cold method 5 0 0% Total solids 1000 301 30% Mint leaves for infusion 40 46
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TRENDS When one thinks of artificial intelligence in the world of hospitality, one tends to associate it with robots programmed to make impeccably executed speciality dishes, well enough to substitute their human counterparts. However, even if this is no longer a futuristic scene (several venues already do this), it is not Digital mind For the past few decades, artificial intelligence has been used by venue owners to optimize multiple processes. Here is how it is revolutionizing the approach to bars, restaurants, pastry shops and gelato shops in offering their clients increasingly tailored services. image by Freepik the most common way that digital technology is changing the industry. In addition, the tools to implement it do not require any specific skills, therefore they can be used by everyone. We know well that artificial intelligence reproduces human behaviour, but it is not limited to the simple acquisition of information. By using algorithms, it can “learn” from past situations to offer users continually improved experiences. A classic example of automated learning is that used by platforms such as Netflix and Spotify, which over time learn the preferences of the users to offer new content that they will like. Smart support Artificial intelligence exists conceptually since the 1950s, but only in the last few decades has it evolved enough to guarantee an acceptable level of reliability in carrying out important business activities. The first applications in food & beverage establishments date back to the beginning of the 2000s, and essentially regarded how to automate different processes. Today, it can greatly use its capacity to analyse 48
a wide range of complex data, foresee trends and make intelligent decisions. Taking advantage of its potential, establishments can offer highly personalized experiences, simplify operations by making them more efficient, and improve customer service with chatbots and virtual assistants. For example, smart technology allows for the optimization of the food in stock by rotating the products based on their expiration date: it is also a way to reduce food waste, energy consumption and operational costs. Some hospitality companies use facial recognition on stands so they can identify their most loyal customers and offer them their usual products or guide them to alternative options based on their personal preferences. A mix of the future Artificial intelligence has heralded the beginning of a new era in mixology. Thanks to it, bartenders can be more creative, offering a high level of personalization. After all, even though there are countless cocktail recipes, consumers increasingly want to experiment with unique drinks made just for them. This goes beyond just simply choosing ingredients, since it also involves the singular components of flavour, such as the individual perception of sweet and bitter. And it is precisely in this that artificial intelligence systems prove to be valuable allies. They are able to analyse the clients’ preferences based on what they ordered in the past, and they can suggest new recipes that meet their expectations but with often surprising combinations. Thus, new innovative cocktails are created, the result of the encounter of technology and human skills. Iter, a cocktail bar in Milan (Italy), has developed a drink list with a series of cocktails created with ChatGPT’s support that were then elaborated by their bartenders. Axelrad, a bar in Houston (USA), recently prepared a menu with four drinks titled “Man against the machine” generated by artificial intelligence, all conceived by ChatGPT by taking inspiration from classic drinks. When asked to create a spicy mocktail, AI came up with Sweet Heat: mango nectar, lime juice, honey syrup and a light dusting of cayenne pepper and paprika. The bartenders came up with a warm Paloma: grapefruit and Squirt soda, with peppers that elevate the feeling of warmth. The clients could order a tasting of each drink then vote for their favourite. In the end, the winning creations made it onto the menu. Naturally, the competition continues. image by azerbaijan_stockers on freepik image by frimufilms on freepik 49
TRENDS image by rawpixel.com on freepik Virtual training Artificial intelligence is also revolutionizing the way bartenders are trained. Thanks to AI-based virtual reality simulators, future baristas can immerse themselves in a digital learning environment to acquire and practice different techniques, to improve skills and to experiment with new flavours. All of this, without being afraid to make a mistake or to waste ingredients. image by DC Studio on freepik Technology at the table In the restaurant industry, artificial intelligence has virtually unlimited potential. In the kitchen, it can help automate processes by performing repetitive and time-consuming tasks. In the past, these “co-bots” (collaborative robots) were complex and expensive, but today with artificial intelligence they are much more compact and easier to use. Smart kitchens combine automation, client location and predictive analytics to create a more streamlined culinary experience. Artificial intelligence can connect data acquired through digital payment tools with sales trends, allowing for the optimization of ingredient purchases and the reduction of the amount of food kept in stock. Furthermore, since AI technology can help foresee consumer trends, the owners of establishments can more easily make decisions regarding which menu to offer and which prices to charge. 50
In the name of tradition The use of innovative technologies also opens new avenues in the world of pastry and gelato. The only imperative for the artisan is to find the right balance between the use of artificial intelligence and respect for tradition. This challenge has already been accepted by the pastry chefs of the future. The students of the Institute Culinary De France in Bordeaux, whose educational president is Pierre Hermé, took part in the “Pastry 3.0 competition”, with the creation of original desserts starting with a few images generated by artificial intelligence. During their first attempt, the students tried to visually approach the image, but then, they realized that the texture was not satisfactory. In the end, the winning group preferred to use a more pleasant texture even if the dessert was not an exact visual replica of the original. Even in producing artisanal gelato, artificial intelligence can lead to significant improvements. By analysing recipe data, together with consumer preferences and their sensory feedback, algorithms can pinpoint the perfect balance between the ingredients. It is about fine-tuning every aspect of flavour, texture, creaminess and nutritional value. image by freepik image by freepik 51
RECIPES FREYA’S AI-MAZING By Eugenio Morrone Images by Matteo Lonati 52
CHRISTMAS COMPOSITION • Chocolate rum gelato • Strawberry grape sorbet • Vanilla semifreddo • Classic biscuit • Almond and hazelnut brittle • Glaze CHOCOLATE RUM GELATO INGREDIENTS: • whole milk 642 g • sucrose 145 g • pure cocoa paste 50 g • 70% dark chocolate 50 g • rum (42% abv) 50 g • cocoa (22-24) 30 g • glucose 30de 30 g • carob seed flour 2 g • guar gum 1 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat the milk and rum to 40°C, add sucrose, glucose, carob seed flour, guar gum and cocoa that have been previously mixed together. Bring the mixture to 85°. Pour 1/3 onto the pure cocoa paste and chopped chocolate, and carefully emulsify. Add the rest of the mixture and blend. Cool to 4°C and let rest preferably for 6-12 hours. Mix and batch freeze. A single portion with a Christmas vibe, made with a chocolate rum gelato, a strawberry grape sorbet, and a vanilla semifreddo. It was invented by the award-winning Maestro Eugenio Morrone, winner of the Gelato World Cup in 2020, who used the potential of Artificial Intelligence in the recipe. 53
RECIPES STRAWBERRY GRAPE SORBET INGREDIENTS: • strawberry grape 710 g • sucrose 120 g • water 87 g • glucose 30de 30 g • inulin 30 g • trehalose 20 g • carob seed flour 2 g • guar gum 1 g INSTRUCTIONS Mix together the dry ingredients, except sucrose, then pour water heated to 80°C onto the mixture, carefully mixing. Let cool. In the meantime, wash the grapes thoroughly with water and baking soda to remove yeast from the skin. Quickly extract the juice, mixing it with the sugar, then add to the previously prepared syrup. Batch freeze immediately. CLASSIC BISCUIT INGREDIENTS: • fresh egg whites 300 g • sugar 250 g • fresh egg yolks 200 g • 150-180w flour 200 g • starch 50 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat egg whites stirring occasionally with a whisk until they reach 45°C. Whip egg yolks together with 100 g of sugar. In a second stand mixer, whip the egg whites with 150 g of sugar. Sift the flour and starch together, then incorporate into the whipped egg yolks. Adding a small amount at a time, incorporate whipped egg whites using a spatula. Spread out onto a silicon mat at a thickness of 3 mm then bake at 160°C for 10 minutes with the valve closed. Remove from oven and blast chill to +3°C. VANILLA SEMIFREDDO INGREDIENTS: • sugar 180 g • fresh egg whites 150 g • water 60 g • trehalose 40 g • vanilla (pods) 2 • semi-whipped cream 570 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat water, sugar and trehalose to 121°C. Slowly pour onto the egg whites while whipping them in the stand mixer together with the vanilla seeds. Keep whipping until cool. Whip the cream to soft peaks. Carefully and delicately blend whipped cream with the previously prepared meringue. DARK CHOCOLATE GLAZE VANILLA SEMIFREDDO BISCUIT CHOCOLATE RUM GELATO STRAWBERRY GRAPE SORBET ALMOND AND HAZELNUT BRITTLE 54
ALMOND AND HAZELNUT BRITTLE Almond crumble INGREDIENTS: • almond flour 150 g • sugar 250 g • flour 200 g • butter 200 g • salt 50 g Almond and hazelnut brittle INGREDIENTS: • almond crumble 215 g • hazelnut praline paste 150 g • hazelnut paste 130 g • corn flakes/pailleté feuilletine 110 g • milk chocolate couverture 85 g • cocoa butter 50 g • vegetable oil 20 g INSTRUCTIONS Melt couverture and cocoa butter. Add vegetable oil, hazelnut paste and hazelnut praline paste and emulsify. Add to crumble and pailleté feuilletine, then mix together. Pour 400 g of the warm mixture onto the biscuit arranged into a 34x34 square and level off with a spatula. GLAZE INGREDIENTS: • sugar 250 g • glucose 42de 145 g • dextrose 145 g • water 448 g • nh pectin 9 g • citric acid 2 g • red food colouring 1 g INSTRUCTIONS Mix dry ingredients except citric acid, then add to water. Bring to a boil and chill immediately using a blast chiller. Add the citric acid when the mixture reaches 40°C. Let rest for 12 hours. Before using, it is recommended to heat the glaze to 38°C. ASSEMBLY This single portion is made up of three concentric spheres: the innermost one is made with chocolate rum gelato; the middle one with strawberry grape sorbet; and the outer one with vanilla semifreddo. It is completed by a red glaze and a hook made of dark chocolate couverture. The sphere rests on a biscuit base combined with an almond and hazelnut praline. Fill the smallest sphere mould with chocolate rum gelato and blast freeze. Fill the intermediate sized sphere with strawberry grape sorbet. Insert the chocolate rum gelato sphere into the centre, pushing any excess strawberry grape sorbet out of the mould. Blast freeze. Fill the largest mould, which will be the external sphere, with the vanilla semifreddo and insert the previously made sorbet sphere with the gelato core into the centre. For the base, place the biscuit in a 34x34 square and pour on top 400 g of liquid brittle. Level with a spatula. When cooled, using a round cookie cutter with a diameter of 4 cm, cut out a disc, which should be inserted under pressure into the mould. Blast freeze. Extract the single portion from the mould, then blast freeze again. Place on a chilled rack, then glaze with the glaze heated to 38°C, removing any excess. Position on the serving plate and complete the decoration by adding a dark chocolate hook. 55
Claudio Ceroni and Paolo Marchi EVENTS by Federica Serva – images by Brambilla-Serrani Claudio Ceroni and Paolo Marchi 56
Paolo Brunelli In the kitchen as in pastry, gelato and mixology, being disobedient does not mean being contrary to everything, but rather shifting the attention from one point to another. Don’t blindly repeat a recipe but break the mould. This thought was at the base of the 2024 Identità Milan. “There is no innovation without disobedience: the revolution today” was the theme of the 19th edition of the international congress of gourmet cuisine, pastry, mixFrom the kitchen to the tables Identità Milan was held March 9-11 at the Allianz MiCo Convention Centre in Milan (Italy). Created with the goal of accompanying the growth of Italian chefs, the congress has become the international point of reference for gourmet cuisine with in-depth insights into the areas of pizza, pastry, gelato, wine, mixology, high-quality products, restaurant service and hospitality. Disobedience for innovation was the leitmotif of the 2024 Identità Milan, which provided space for creativity, not only for chefs de cuisine and pastry chefs, but also bartenders. Overcoming the rules ology and serving. Therefore, disobedience is to be understood as a source of innovation. Breakout sessions According to Paolo Marchi, organizer of the event alongside Claudio Ceroni, today there is a desire to be original, different, just as the different testimonials confirmed. 155 Italian and foreign speakers took turns on the stage presenting and were involved in 85 masterclasses divided into main topics such as Identità Cheese, Identità Pizza, Identità Books, Identità Pasta, Italian-style breakfast, Identità Dessert, Golosi di Identità (a session promoted by the Cotarella Foundation to talk about territory, 57
Creations by Luca Villa EVENTS International line-up Identità Milan hosted many chefs from abroad (Argentina, Denmark, France, Germany, Japan, Mexico, Peru, Spain and Turkey), who presented and illustrated their experiences offering an international vision. The guest country chosen this year was Peru, which has an ancient culinary history, characterized by prized raw ingredients and ancestral cooking techniques that give life to a cuisine that is unique in the world and that is constantly evolving. Sweet and savoury At Identità Dessert, how creativity sparks innovation was experienced thanks to testimonials from one of the convention’s veterans, that is Paolo Brunelli, accompanied by Omar Busi and Luca Villa. Sorbets, tartlets and viennoiseries were all reimagined to give unique emotions to the palate. Gelato and pastry specialties were the protagonists of two other sessions, respectively Italian-style breakfast thanks to original pairings with coffee, and Identità Cheese thanks to unusual tastings with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. health, education and eating disorders), Identità Vegetables and Identità Cocktails. New sessions included Identità Seafood and Hospitality Special, dedicated to hospitality in Italy. Japanese creativity Arriving from Japan was Shingo Gokan, founder of the SG Club and of the new Sip&Guzzle in New York. He is also the winner of many recognitions. By using Japanese ingredients, he sparked curiosity and revealed the characteristics of his Rising Sun mix. He also revealed which future products could be in a mixed drink. Daikaku Vesper, Tomato Sake and Negroni Bento were his proposals. Shingo Gokan and Edoardo Casarotto 58
Creations by Andrea Aprea and Jessica Rocchi Creation by Sossio Del Prete Among the booths This year, greater attention was given to mixology. As if a sort of continuation of the first launch of Identità Golose’s Pizza Guide and the Signature Cocktail Bars Guide, during Nonsolococktails (Notonlycocktails) Rodrigo Urra- ca, Eric Van Beek and Rogelio Gamboa performed. Members and founders of the renowned Handshake Speakeasy, in Mexico City, they prepared interesting recipes with Latin American ingredients, to be enjoyed at happy hour with pizza, salami, and fried finger foods prepared by the convention’s partner companies. Plates and glasses A large audience gathered for the Identità Cocktails session. Through seven masterclasses, current trends and the most interesting pairings between dishes and drinks were revealed. This was proven by Chef Andrea Aprea and the maître d’ and sommelier of his restaurant, Jessica Rocchi, with pairings for his signature dish Caprese… Sweet and Savoury and for the dish Duck with langoustines with radicchio, apple, eucalyptus, along with the respective cocktails Neapolitan Soul and Contemporary Impulse, created specifically to highlight the dishes. Careful research for the ingredients, excellent technique, and use of high-quality liquor are the secret to the success of a drink, to which you can add a pinch of provocation like with the Blue Angel by Sossio Del Prete, a revisited version with a dry and fragrant formula where the blue hue is given by a dolphin-shaped candy. 59
RECIPES PAPRIKA SHAPES By Pierpaolo and Riccardo Magni Recipes from the book “Reverse fusion” Images by Francesca Lazzarini F2 Studio 60
COMPOSITION • Strawberry and pepper gelato • Partially salted almond and paprika wafer • Julienne of candied peppers STRAWBERRY AND PEPPER GELATO INGREDIENTS • water 280 g • strawberry puree 273 g • cooked pepper puree 173 g • sugar 126 g • maltodextrin 55 g • glucose syrup 42 De 45 g • dextrose 45 g • neutral fruit stabilizer 3 g INSTRUCTIONS Mix the neutral stabilizer into the sugar, add to water with the other sugars and heat to 82°C. Cool and add the purees. Mix thoroughly. Freeze in the batch freezer. Place in a 0.5 cm frame and chill in the blast freezer. INGREDIENTS • water 280 g • strawberry puree 273 g • cooked pepper puree 173 g • sugar 114 g • maltodextrin 55 g • glucose syrup 42 De 45 g • dextrose 25 g • fruit base 50 35 g PARTIALLY SALTED ALMOND AND PAPRIKA WAFER INGREDIENTS • white almond flour 230 g • sweet paprika 4 g • sugar syrup 28 De 250 g INSTRUCTIONS Combine ingredients, mix well to form a thick mass. Spread a thin layer between two silicone mats and bake at 180°C valve open for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and cut into 5x4 cm rectangles. Cool. JULIENNE OF CANDIED PEPPERS INGREDIENTS • yellow and red peppers 250 g • water 125 g • sugar 125 g • glucose 25 g INSTRUCTIONS Bake the peppers in the oven and remove the peel. Boil the water and sugar, add the peppers cut into julienne strips and return to a boil. Add the glucose and boil again. Finally, cool and store. ASSEMBLY AND DECORATION Take the frame with the gelato, remove the mold, and cut rectangular plates slightly smaller than the shape of the almond and paprika and chill in the blast freezer. Take the paprika wafer, overlay the rectangular piece of gelato, and top with another paprika wafer. Chill in blast freezer. Position the petit fours vertically and decorate with candied pepper julienne and caramelized almond. 61
RECIPES TOMATO GELATIN INGREDIENTS • tomato pulp 450 g • inverted sugar 90 g • maltodextrin 55 g • granulated sugar 75 g • dextrose 30 g • Stolichnaya vodka 40 g • water 30 g • pectin 8 g • gelatin 6 g INSTRUCTIONS Mix sugar, pectin, dextrose, maltodextrin, inverted sugar, and part of the tomato pulp. Heat in the microwave. Add the remaining tomato pulp and hydrated gelatin, mix, and add the vodka. Pour in 3 mm frames and cool. Dice. Keep refrigerated. COMPOSITION • Baby spinach • Pear gelato • Sheets of Parmesan cheese aged 30 months • Sorrento lemons • Rye bread • Tomato gelatin • Fresh raspberries • Emulsion of extra virgin olive oil, lemon, salt, and Penja black pepper BABY SPINACH INGREDIENTS • baby spinach 150 g INSTRUCTIONS Thoroughly clean and immerse in boiling water with 15% sugar for 15 seconds. Drain and cool on ice. Store. PEAR GELATO INGREDIENTS • water 243 g • lemon juice 9 g • pear pulp 487 g • sugar 158 g • glucose syrup 42 De 49 g • dextrose 49 g • neutral fruit stabilizer 3 g • inulin 2 g INSTRUCTIONS According to best practice. Store. INGREDIENTS • water 243 g • lemon juice 9 g • pear pulp 487 g • sugar 158 g • glucose syrup 42 De 33 g • dextrose 33 g • fruit base 50 35 g • inulin 2 g Ice salad ASSEMBLY AND DECORATION Assemble in the following order: thin slices of toasted rye bread, spinach leaves, fresh raspberries, diced tomato gelatin, quenelle of pear gelato. Complete with sheets of Parmesan cheese and some drops of emulsified oil, lemon, salt and Penja black pepper. 62
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