CONTENTS Contributors 19 Editorial 20 In partnership with 22 Paolo Brunelli, beyond a gelato chef 30 Beyond the cone 36 PuntoItaly wire 38 Sacher Glacé 44 A Star has risen 48 Classic winter look 52 Gelato and pizza 56 The year of the dragon 60 Citrus fruits galore 64 A very sweet Jubilee 68 The Companies 70 36 56 60 48 THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 14 - No. 39 - JANUARY 2025 - € 1.00 64 17
CONTRIBUTORS Paolo Brunelli Master gelato chef Riccardo Magni Master gelato chef Antonio Mezzalira Master gelato chef Alice Vignoli Master gelato chef Federica Serva Reporter Pierpaolo Magni Master gelato chef Beppo Tonon Master gelato chef puntoITALY Milan – Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Six-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 14 - No. 39 - January 2025 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca, Patrick Hopkins Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv srl - Milano Editrade srl – Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - 20133 Milan, I Tel. +39 02 70004960 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Pentagraf - Bernate Ticino (Milan, I) Cover Wilson Santinelli All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. 19
EDITORIAL THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 14 - No. 39 - JANUARY 2025 - € 1.00 These are definitely complicated times…This is how I opened the editorial of the last issue of the puntoItaly magazine. Six months have passed, and almost nothing has changed, if not an intensification of world fibrillations, which certainly do not benefit international trade. But we must persevere and continue to move forward keeping the helm steady, ensuring to not embark on the wrong course. With our magazine, we were directly present at various international trade shows held during the second semester of 2024. We made landfall at Roma Food Excel, at Sial in Paris, at FHA in Singapore, at Südback Stuttgart and at Mig in Longarone. Everywhere we went, there was strong appreciation for Italian food! Ours is a consolidated path, promoting Italian artisanal confectionaries through its true protagonists: gelato chefs, pastry chefs, bartenders, chefs de cuisine and, of course, companies in the industry. In this new issue of puntoItaly, which sees its first official release of the new year during Sigep in Rimini, we dedicate our cover and opening article to Paolo Brunelli, a highly esteemed and respected professional of the Italian gelato industry. Keep following us and come visit us, at the trade shows or online at www.puntoitaly.org Moving forward with determination! 20
22 IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE SHOWS EXPO SWEET exposweet.pl ezig@exposweet.pl @ExpoSweetEZIG @exposweet FHC CHINA www.fhcchina.com fhc@imsnoexpo.com @FHCshanghai FHA HORECA fhahoreca.com enquiry@foodnhotelasia.com @fhahoreca @fhahoreca GELATISSIMO www.gelatissimo.de info@messe-stuttgart.de @GELATISSIMO.Stuttgart @gelatissimo_stuttgart GULFOOD www.gulfood.com gulfoodmarketing@dwtc.com @Gulfood @Gulfood HOST host.fieramilano.it host@fieramilano.it @host.fiera.milano @hostmilano HOSTELCO ALIMENTARIA www.hostelco.com hostelco@firabarcelona.com @Hostelco @hostelcobcn INTERNATIONAL PIZZA EXPO & CONFERENCE pizzaexpo.pizzatoday.com marketing@pizzaexpo.com @PizzaExpo @pizzaexpo LEVANTE PROF www.levanteprofbari.it info@levanteprofbari.it @levanteprof @levanteprof MIG www.mostradelgelato.com mig@longaronefiere.it @mig.longarone @miglongarone ©Frank Foucha
24 IN PARTNERSHIP WITH SIRHA www.sirha-lyon.com sirhalyon2025@gl-events.com @sirhalyon @sirha_lyon SÜDBACK suedback.de info@messe-stuttgart.de @suedback THE SPECIALITY FOOD FESTIVAL www.speciality.ae specialitymarketing@dwtc.com @SpecialityFoodFestival @specialityfoodfestival TIRRENO CT www.tirrenoct.it info@tirrenotrade.it @tirrenocttirrenotradesrl @fieratirrenoct MONTE-CARLO GASTRONOMIE montecarlogastronomie.com info.carolicom@groupecaroli.mc @MonteCarloGastronomie @montecarlogastronomie NRA SHOW www.nationalrestaurantshow.com nraexhibitinfo@winsightmedia.com @NationalRestaurantShow @NationalRestaurantShow ROMA FOOD EXCEL romafoodexcel.it info@romafoodexcel.it @romafoodexcel @romafoodexcel SIGEP WORLD www.sigep.it helpdesk.rn@iegexpo.it @SigepWorld @sigepworld
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH ACCADEMIA BIGATTON Tel. (+39) 421 271554 www.accademiabigatton.com info@accademiabigatton.com ALVENA DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 2 98280138 www.alvena.it info@alvena.it ANSELMI DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.anselmi1892.com BABBI Tel. (+39) 543 448598 babbi.com info@babbi.it BIGATTON PRODUZIONE Tel. (+39) 421 271554 www.bigatton.com bigatton@bigatton.com BRAVO Tel. (+39) 444 707700 www.bravo.it info@bravo.it BRX Tel. (+39) 721 499611 www.brxitalia.com info@brxitalia.com CARPIGIANI Tel. (+39) 51 6505111 www.carpigiani.com info@carpigiani.it CARTOPRINT Tel. (+39) 2 96399911 www.cartoprint.com infocartoprint@sedagroup.org COLALUCCI Tel. (+39) 6 92099203 www.colalucci.it info@colalucci.it COMPRITAL Tel. (+39) 2 95770829 www.comprital.com comprital@comprital.com CONI PERFETTO Tel. (+39) 81 5050033 www.coniperfetto.it info@coniperfetto.it DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333 600 www.disaronnoingredients.com info@disaronnoingredients.com FABBRI 1905 Tel. (+39) 51 6173111 www.fabbri1905.com commerciale@fabbri1905.com FB Tel. (+39) 731 61531 www.fbshowcases.com info@fbstyle.it FRIGOMAT Tel. (+39) 377 415011 www.frigomat.com frigomat@frigomat.com FRUCTITAL Tel. (+39) 121 56587 www.fructital.it sales@fructital.it FUGAR Tel. (+39) 541 679470 www.fugar.it fugar@fugar.it GELATITALIA Tel. (+39) 35 4824335 www.gelatitalia.it info@gelatitalia.it GELDUE Tel. (+39) 51 6132910 www.geldue.it info@geldue.it ICAM Tel. (+39) 31 6346101 www.icamprofessionale.com info@icamprofessionale.it 26
I-CONICA Tel. (+39) 353 4406133 www.i-conica.it commerciale@microandi.it IMBALLAGGI ALIMENTARI Tel. (+39) 577 660353 www.imballaggialimentari.it info@imballaggialimentari.it ITAL DAIRY Tel. (+971) 547043074 www.italdairy.com info@italdairy.com ITALPROGET Tel. (+39) 75 987038 www.italproget.it info@italproget.it LEAGEL Tel. (+378) 549 999435 www.leagel.com info@leagel.com LINEA DORI 3000 Tel. (+39) 6 65671626 www.lineadori.com info@lineadori.com MARTINI GELATO - UNIGRÀ Tel. (+39) 545 989511 www.martiniprofessional.it info@martiniprofessional.it MEC3 Tel. (+39) 541 859411 www.mec3.com mec3@mec3.it MEDAC Tel. (+39) 89 301466 www.medac.it info@medac.it MODECOR ITALIANA Tel. (+39) 332 658311 www.modecoritaliana.it modecor@modecor.it MONTEBIANCO DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.montebiancogelato.com info@montebiancogelato.com NUTMAN GROUP Tel. (+39) 141 835225 www.nutman-group.com info@nutman-group.com ORION Tel. (+39) 731 61531 www.orionstyle.com info@orionstyle.com PERNIGOTTI MAESTRI GELATIERI ITALIANI Tel. (+39) 541 859411 www.pernigottigelatieri.com info@pernigottigelatieri.com PREGEL Tel. (+39) 522 394211 www.pregel.com info@pregel.it SALVALACQUA Tel. (+39) 0721 499611 www.salvalacqua.com info@salvalacqua.com STELLA DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.prodottistella.com info@prodottistella.com TADDIA Tel. (+39) 51 944973 www.taddia.com info@taddia.com UNIGEL Tel. (+39) 35 883154 www.unigelitalia.com info@unigelitalia.com VALRHONA SELECTION Tel. (+33) 4 75079090 www.valrhona.com scvalrhona@valrhona.fr IN PARTNERSHIP WITH 28
INTERVIEW by Federica Serva beyond a gelato chef Paolo Brunelli, Image by Wilson Santinelli 30
How would you define Paolo Brunelli in one sentence? For a while now, I define myself as going beyond a gelato chef; certainly not to discredit gelato, which will always remain my biggest love, it is quite the contrary. The industry of cold desserts today has been turned upside down, contaminated by pastry, foodservice and chocolate arts. Me defining myself as going beyond a gelato chef serves as a way to include my whole world, which has increasingly malleable boundaries with other disciplines, not only with the contiguous ones but also with those that are extraneous to cuisine, such as music and design, two other great passions of mine. The greatest professional intuition of your career? The Brunelli cream, a pastry cream with dark chocolate chips, caramelised hazelnuts and anise. It contains all of the aromas of my region. It has the magical power to unlock memories of amusement parks and a blooming countryside. Still today it has an iconic and evergreen flavour, and it is a real sounding board for my name. The courage to be daring, supported by a strong passion for music and design, and a curiosity that goes beyond the production kitchen. Image by Lido Vannucchi Image by Lido Vannucchi 31
INTERVIEW The most significant professional mistake of your career? Opening a gelato shop in the middle of the pandemic. The shop in Marzocca, Senigallia (Ancona, Italy) first opened at the turn of 20192020, a time period of restrictions, fear, and confused and delusional institutional messages. More than a mistake, it was a mixture of bad luck, forced decisions and uncertainty with staffing, caused by the terrible period we were all experiencing. Today it is a joy, but it took us four years to revive it. In your life, both personal and professional, music, painting, design, and literature play an important role. Why? Because I am curious and I let myself get carried away by different worlds. Inspiration doesn’t just come from studying in the lab. A bit because of my age, because I have been doing this job for many years; partly because I have also dealt with other things, but always related to the world of taste, fine living, culture. After that, transferring all the discoveries, teachings and, why not, contrasts into my gelato was a fluid, natural process. What does gelato represent for Paolo Brunelli? A huge love. It is a fascinating product because it changes over time; it melts and this makes it captivating; it is popular but at the same time rests elegantly on starred dishes. Sexy, yet an everyday thing, it is an immortal product. How has the creation of chocolate gelato and chocolate sorbet evolved? Until twenty years ago, chocolate gelato did not exist; there was cocoa-flavoured gelato. The evolution, therefore, is given by the use of chocolate (in my case, pure), of which I preImage by Wilson Santinelli Image by Lido Vannucchi 32
serve the intrinsic origin and aromas. Chocolate sorbet, on the other hand, just didn’t exist. Which factors have influenced this change the most: technological progress, consumption and lifestyle trends, gelato chefs’ desire for experimentation? All this together, but above all the pleasure of eating not only to nourish oneself or as a release, but also to research, explore and give value to agricultural products. Today we are all more educated and competent, so I would say that it is a social change, before I would say it is a culinary one. What is your approach to gastronomic gelato? It’s not exactly a branch that suits me. I love traditional gelato and how its recipe works: it must pamper you. Then it can be enriched or blended with flavours that are unrelated to desserts or it can take particular forms, as in my famous reproduction of the Bosco Verticale (Vertical Forest), presented at Identità Golose 2018. So, I’m not at all against innovation and exploration, but I don’t like to distort just to provoke: the taste must be balanced and pleasant. What fascinates you about chocolate? It’s erotic, sensual. One of life’s pleasures. Plus, it takes on different shapes and textures, so it’s also a fun material to play with. The chocolate I prefer is definitely dark chocolate. However, I have discov- Image by Lido Vannucchi Image by Wilson Santinelli 33
INTERVIEW ered, in the last few years, the wonder of a certain type of milk chocolate, which should not be denigrated as it has been in the past, when it was seen as chocolate for children. Every chocolate has a reason for its characteristics. The Brunelli Cake is made with a single-origin milk chocolate from the Dominican Republic. You are a Brand Ambassador of Valrhona. Why did you accept this role and what projects are you developing? I respect Valrhona first of all as a customer and this already says a lot, with them there is a relationship of trust that has continued over time. Ten years ago I started my journey as a Brand Ambassador precisely to experiment with chocolate gelato and it was exciting because I followed firsthand the transformation that I mentioned before. At the time, there was no knowledge of cocoa mass and with Valrhona, I have followed and continue to follow the evolution of chocolate gelato. Today, with Valrhona’s “Gelato Mondo” project, we are traveling to bring Italian gelato and our gastronomic and professional culture to the world. The first stop was China. Other dates are scheduled in 2025 that we will soon be able to reveal. Internationally, how is Italian gelato and pastry perceived today and what future do you foresee? The savoir-faire of our gelato and pastry professionals; the ability of the Italian Maestros to illustrate, teach, fascinate; the extreme respect for ingredients; all of these factors have given a very precious value to these products. Like haute couture, Italian gelato and pastry make people talk about them with that discreet and immortal elegance, which cannot be forgotten. Image by Lido Vannucchi 34
The Brunelli Cake has been defined as “Wealth in subtraction”. For what reason? Because it’s made with only two ingredients: hazelnuts from a very small producer in Piedmont - whose name I do not declare because I have jealously guarded it for years - and single-origin chocolate from Santo Domingo. “I apologize for the length of my letter, but I didn’t have time to write a shorter one”, this is how Blaise Pascal, around 1656, opened one of the best-known of his Lettres Provinciales. The same is true for the Brunelli Cake: finding the perfect formula for such a simple product was a titanic undertaking. What is your favourite dessert recipe? I love zuppa inglese and hazelnut gelato. However, if you mean which is my favourite recipe “to make”, I like everything that contains egg yolk, too mystified in recent years. The yolk is a magical product. It is what allows you to emulsify gelato and to soften it. A cream without egg yolk is not a cream, just as a tiramisu without egg yolk is not a tiramisu. Obviously, as with other ingredients, it is important to make a balanced and contained use of them. After Alchermes. and a perfume for an important luxury company, what would you still like to explore? First of all, since this year I have been working closely with my daughter Vittoria, who has always been a point of reference at the shop counter and with the public. Today she has taken the reins of the company with me. She is a burst of youthfulness, and she has a very practical approach (the sign of Taurus rarely contradicts itself) and a different point of view from mine, which disrupts routine and does a lot of good for the creativity of the production kitchen. Then, going into detail about new creations, at Identità Milano 2024 I presented PAUSA., a one hundred percent plantbased product, to be used instead of butter or to be grated on top of a sorbet or any other dish, even a risotto. I’m using it in gelato, panettone and savoury leavened products. It is an extraordinary amplifier of flavours. Image by Wilson Santinelli 35
Image by Carlo Baroni RECIPES BEYOND THE CONE By Paolo Brunelli INGREDIENTS: • whole milk 564 g • Guanaja 70% chocolate 207 g • inverted sugar syrup 94 g • dextrose 85 g • skim milk powder 47 g • neutral 3 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat the milk together with the inverted sugar. Once the mixture reaches 40-45°C, add the dextrose, skim milk powder and neutral which have been thoroughly mixed together previously. Reach pasteurization temperature (85°C), then proceed with the emulsion technique: with the help of an immersion blender, blend the liquid mixture together with the chocolate. Proceed to batch freeze or store as needed. Chocolate gelato Discover the thousand forms of gelato by experimenting with chocolate, then by reinterpreting traditional Italian dishes. 36
ZABAGLIONE INGREDIENTS: • vino cotto from the Marche region 500 g • egg yolk 500 g • sucrose 250 g • trehalose 250 g INSTRUCTIONS To speed up pasteurization, heat the vino cotto in the microwave until it reaches a temperature of about 60°C, then pour it into a saucepan where the sugars and egg yolk have been previously mixed together with a whisk. Proceed with pasteurization until the desired creaminess is obtained. Cool immediately by placing the saucepan in a bucket full of water and ice or place it in a blast chiller (in both cases, the mixture needs to be cooled to 4°C). PLATING Place the zabaglione on a serving plate. Immediately top with a quenelle of almond gelato, a generous sprinkling of pecorino romano cheese, guanciale chips and pepper, each to taste (better to have a lot than a little!). Image by Lido Vannucchi Recalling a carbonara This recipe reproduces the flavours of this famous dish, in a sweet version. The almond gelato takes the place of pasta; the zabaglione with vino cotto takes the place of the eggs. The pecorino romano and pepper remain the same. The idea is to stimulate a recollection of carbonara while firmly maintaining the recipe for a good almond-flavoured gelato, without distorting it. ALMOND GELATO INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 653 g • raw almond paste from Etna 99 g • sucrose 109 g • dextrose 64 g • egg yolk 20 g • skim milk powder 50 g • neutral 3 g • sea salt from Cervia 2 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat the milk and egg yolk to 40-45°C, then slowly sprinkle in the dry ingredients that have been previously mixed together. Once the pasteurization temperature has been reached (85°C), proceed to batch freeze or store as needed. Or rather: almond gelato, zabaglione with vino cotto from the Italian Marche region, grated pecorino romano cheese, crispy guanciale and pepper. 37
By Davide Pini FAIRS TOUR ROMA FOOD EXCEL Rome (Italy), October 13 - 16 (Images provided by RFE - D.M.P.) It was an engaging and lively second edition of Roma Food Excel. What immediately struck us was the high professional profile of the visitors to this B2B fair, as they wandered among the exhibitors’ stands to get to know the best of Made-in-Italy agri-food and foodservice. Participation in the full calendar of collateral events was remarkable, with masterclasses, workshops, seminars, competitions, demonstrations and cooking shows. In particular, there was a lot of interest in the seminar “Territorial Identity on the Label: WinA chronicle of the trade fairs visited by puntoItaly during its travels abroad. A first-hand reportage of meetings, emotions, and experiences. puntoItaly wire ning Strategies for Made-in-Italy food”, which focused on the importance of the label as a means of storytelling and creating value for Italian products. Among the numerous initiatives promoted by AIG - Italian Gelato Chefs Association – the in-depth analysis of gelato with alcohol by Paolo Cappellini and world champions Eugenio Morrone and Rosario Nicodemo, is worthmentioning, as they presented original creations with limoncello spritz. The Gianicolo d’Oro competition dedicated to the flavour Roman ricotta saw Gianluca Montervino triumph whereas at the Aventino d’Oro competition, Paolo Costantini and Davide Pillitteri tied for first place. Roma Food Excel’s spotlight was also focused on the world of pizza. The City of Rome Trophy competition offered participants the opportunity to express their creativity and technical skills. Vanessa Savi climbed to the highest step of the podium, followed by Gianluca Piersanti and Domenico Sancamillo. The Master Pizza Champion crowned Carlo Ammirata as the winner, earning a place in the national finals of the Master Pizza Champion 2025. 38
The Sial Innovation Gold Award was awarded to a French Company for its plant-based mix for crackers. A Mauritian company received the Africa award for its drink with moringa, a plant with multiple nutritional and medicinal virtues. A Finnish company won the Sial Innovation Bronze Award, with its line of konjac rice sushi bases, a natural, gluten-free and low-calorie ingredient. The Start-up Village has taken on new dimensions, doubling its exhibition area when compared to the previous edition. With over 650 start-ups present at Sial, it has become the beating heart of the event, and a symbol of the ascent of young companies in the transformation of the food industry. The next edition is scheduled for October 17-21, 2026. “The second edition of Roma Food Excel”, said the organizer of the event, Ezio Amendola, “has demonstrated its potential in promoting Made-in-Italy products in the agri-food and foodservice industries and in facilitating the gathering of and dialogue between professionals in the industry. We are satisfied with the participation and interest in the event, but we’re already looking ahead. We are preparing to return to Bari with Levante Prof scheduled for March 9-12,2025, and we are ready to meet again in Rome in 2026”. SIAL Paris (France), October 19 - 23 When we arrived at the entrance of the Paris-Nord Villepinte exhibition centre, we found ourselves literally immersed in a crowd of visitors from all over the world. And these were just a fraction of the 285,000 professionals who passed through the turnstiles during the five days of the show, counting for a record 8 percent increase in attendance. After all, the offer on display was characterized by staggering numbers: 7 thousand and five hundred companies representing 127 countries; over 400 thousand food and beverage products on display; an exhibition area of over 270 square meters. The Sial Innovation competition made it possible to focus on the most innovative concepts of the fair. ©Xavier Muyer ©Loran Dherines ©Frank Foucha 39
FAIRS TOUR FHA Singapore, October 22 - 25 (Images provided by FHA Food & Beverage) Temperatures well above the Italian average welcomed us at Singapore airport and, in a certain sense, heralded the frenzy of business that awaited us at FHA. In an exhibition space of 50 thousand square meters, eight hundred exhibitors from 34 countries presented their innovations in the Horeca world. This created a dynamic space that fostered professional contact and exchange, while at the same time allowing for the exploration of the most recent proposals in the foodservice and hospitality industries. The competitions were particularly numerous. The atmosphere was electrifying as talents from all over the world competed for top honours at events such as the Bakery Challenge, Asian Gelato Cup, Asian Pastry Cup, Global Pastry Chef Competition, Global Vegan Chef Competition, Global Chef Competition, Barista Speed Challenge, Café Menu Challenge... The TechCamp provided valuable insights to operators interested in integrating the most cutting-edge technologies into their business. This allowed them to learn how to implement key systems, from POS terminals and online ordering to AI-powered solutions, influencing guest experiences, back-office efficiency, and management. Next year, FHA-Food & Beverage and FHA-HoReCa will team up to create an even bigger event, scheduled for April 21-24, 2026, also at Singapore Expo. 40
südback Stuttgart (Germany), October 26 - 29 The biennial meeting with südback is always full of great expectations. And in 2024, it was even more so. The exhibition, an international reference point for the bakery and pastry industries, celebrated a special birthday: its 30th edition. The event was attended by 560 exhibitors, ranging from market leaders to emerging start-ups, who presented innovative ideas for work and operation technologies, raw ingredients, furnishings and furniture for stores, sales promotions and services. There were more than 34,700 visitors. “südback is driving the success of the bakery industry, taking different approaches to create a unique and informal atmosphere where inspiration and exchange flourish” commented Andreas Wiesinger, Vice President of Messe Stuttgart. “The fair proved this once again and the enthusiasm of the participants was tangible”. The focal point of the 2024 edition was the joint development of the bakery and confectionery industries. Live demonstrations, workshops and practical discussion panels allowed visitors to test new products and trends. The Confectioners’ Trend Forum discussed topics such as the further development of training and exclusive ideas for the takeaway business. Emerging talents from the industry demonstrated their skills at the 15th edition of the Carlo Wildt Cup, with the theme “Living in the countryside” as a backdrop for the event. The public particularly appreciated the rich calendar of initiatives promoted by Conpait (Italian Pastry Chefs Association). The events included live demonstrations (chocolate making, mignons, desserts for gastronomy, modern desserts), along with interactive workshops and tastings, which offered the opportunity to discover creations of the Italian confectionery tradition. Topics such as artificial intelligence, sustainable production processes and the recruitment of skilled workers via social media were the focus of attention during the Bakers’ Trend Forum. An absolute novelty, the “Back Star” competition awarded the most creative recipes with the motto “Food Porn” and “Serial Love”. Julijana Cavic won over the jury with her tartlets, made with a matcha shortcrust pastry with a fruity layer of lychee, garnished with a jasmine tea gelato and a meringue. A special event of the last edition was the “Eis-Bühne powered by Alfred Pfersich”, which highlighted 41
FAIRS TOUR MIG Longarone (Belluno, Italy), November 23 - 25 (Images provided by Mig - Longarone Fiere) The 64th edition of the Mig was characterized by a new look. As a historic event in the industry, it reaffirmed its commitment to protecting the most authentic artisanal gelato. “This year we have decided to position the fair differently”, informs Michele Dal Farra, president of the organizing body, Longarone Fiere Dolomiti. “We want to support a more natural and creative gelato, which above all respects the craft, the raw ingredients and its traditions. It is also a cultural path that allows artisans to stand out with a quality product”. The objective of the exhibition was also to tell the story of gelato as a product of haute cuisine, creating value for artisanal craftmanship and the uniqueness of typical regional products and beyond. The “Flavour journey” event involved twenty-four Maestro gelato chefs from various parts of the world, each of whom presented a unique specialty: from the bottarga and candied celery flavour from Sardinia, to the rice, tea and jasmine flavour from China. In addition to the numerous masterclasses and cooking shows that animated the three days of the fair, the Coppa d’Oro Competition, now in its 54th edition and aimed at rewarding the best milkbased pistachio gelato, is worth mentioning. First place was earned by the very young Vanessa Piantari, who among other things, also won the Under 32 award with a traditional pistachio starting from dried nuts from Bronte. The contest dedicated to granita saw many professionals compete against each other. The Italian Chiara Saffioti excelled with her “Bewitched Apple” flavour. During the last edition of Mig, the “Fuori Salone” was inaugurated with Gourmet Circular Dinners, an event format that celebrates the fight against food waste and the ethics of making the most out of food. The event saw the participation of gelato chefs and starred chefs who proposed menus new ideas for bakeries and pastry shops interested in integrating gelato into their businesses. During the national preliminary round of the World Chocolate Masters, which took place live for the first time at südback, the candidates from Germany and Austria showcased their technical prowess with authentic chocolate masterpieces. Johannes Warmuth was crowned at the new Chocolate Master of the two countries represented, and will participate at the International finals in Paris. The next edition of südback is scheduled for October 24-27, 2026. 42
based on the integral use of ingredients. Mig 2024 placed a strong emphasis on training and technological innovation in the artisanal gelato industry. Highlights included conferences on nutrition and new technologies, including the ADI (Italian Association of Dietetics) and CNR (National Research Center) conferences. The most recent results of CNR’s multidisciplinary research project NutrAge, which studies the relationship between nutrition and aging, were presented. A great celebration was had during our publishing house’s event, celebrating the tenth anniversary of our puntoDE magazine, entirely written in German and dedicated to industry professionals operating in Germany and Austria. During the 64th edition of Mig, the 2025 Flavour of the Year was also presented, the protagonist of the European Day of Artisanal Gelato held annually on March 24th: “Hallelujah”. Inspired by the Jubilee, it desires to send a message of peace, hospitality and community, not just to pilgrims but to all gelato lovers. 43
RECIPES SACHER GLACÉ By Pierpaolo and Riccardo Magni Recipes from the book “Reverse fusion” Images by Francesca Lazzarini F2 Studio 44
The famous Austrian chocolate and apricot jam cake, created in the 19th century at the Viennese court, is revisited here in an unusual square version, with a decorative detail that adds a touch of class. COMPOSITION • Reconstructed crispy shortbread base with chocolate and hazelnut • Dark chocolate gelato • Apricot gelatin • Semi-candied apricots • Dark chocolate parfait • Shiny cocoa glaze RECONSTRUCTED CRISPY SHORTBREAD BASE WITH CHOCOLATE AND HAZELNUT INGREDIENTS • butter 135 g • brown sugar 150 g • almond flour 135 g • flour 115 g • salt 1 g • cocoa 20 g • milk chocolate 160 g • hazelnut pralines 50 g • PGI Piedmont hazelnut paste 140 g • puffed cereals 50 g INSTRUCTIONS Combine butter, sugar, almond flour, flour, salt, and cocoa. Mix unevenly and cool. Bake at 160°C valve open, cool, and add the melted chocolate at 40°C, the hazelnut paste with pralines, and the puffed cereals. Roll out squares that are 3 mm shorter than the finished dessert. Chill in blast freezer. DARK CHOCOLATE GELATO INGREDIENTS • milk 500 g • water 126 g • sugar 98 g • dextrose 30 g • glucose syrup 42 Be 24 g • inverted sugar 24 g • nonfat dry milk 18 g • neutral stabilizer 5 g • cocoa paste 175 g INSTRUCTIONS According to best practice. 45
RECIPES SHINY COCOA GLAZE INGREDIENTS • water 150 g • sugar 300 g • glucose syrup 300 g • sweetened condensed milk 200 g • gelatin 25 g • water 125 g • dark chocolate 350 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat the sugar and water to 103°C. Add the condensed milk and heat again to 103°C. Combine the hydrated gelatin, dark chocolate and emulsify. Chill. Use at 35°C. APRICOT GELATIN INGREDIENTS • apricot pulp with 10% sugar 450 g • inverted sugar powder 165 g • sugar 75 g • dextrose 30 g • apricot brandy 43% 40 g • pectin 8 g • gelatin 6 g • water 30 g INSTRUCTIONS Mix sugar, pectin, dextrose, inverted sugar powder, and a part of the fruit pulp. Heat to 60°C. Add the remaining apricot pulp and the hydrated gelatin. Mix and add the apricot brandy. Store in airtight container. SEMI-CANDIED APRICOTS INGREDIENTS • apricots in syrup 350 g • syrup 100 g • sugar 150 g INSTRUCTIONS Boil the syrup and sugar. Add the apricots and bring to a boil once again. Chill and store at 4°C. DARK CHOCOLATE PARFAIT INGREDIENTS • pasteurized egg yolks 110 g • syrup 30 Be 180 g • inverted sugar 45 g • Concha dark chocolate 70% 205 g • whipped cream 650 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat the egg yolks with the syrup and inverted sugar to 82°C. Emulsify and beat in the planetary mixer until reaching 30°C. Dissolve the covering at 50°C and emulsify with a part of whipped cream. Combine with the cream and complete with the rest of the whipped cream. Use immediately. ASSEMBLY AND DECORATION Assemble the dessert in square molds that are 4 cm high in the following order: shortbread base, chocolate gelato, apricot gelatin, semi-candied apricots, dark chocolate parfait. Cover with a sheet of acetate, flip, and chill in the blast freezer. Remove from the mold, place on a grill, and glaze completely with shiny cocoa glaze. Decorate with chocolate and gold pieces, polished dried apricot. 46
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by Federica Serva - photos provided by Minimal TESTIMONIALS 48
At the end of August, when the news came out of the assignment of the first Michelin star to a gelato shop, Minimal in Taiwan, the media echo was vast. First of all, there was astonishment that the Guide had crossed the threshold into a gelato shop; then there was the unprecedented choice of having nominated a restaurant in Asia; added to this was regret of a missed opportunity in Italy, the historical cradle of gelato. Minimal, however, is a gelato shop that differs from the Italian model. Minimal Gelateria in Taiwan has obtained the prestigious recognition from the Michelin Guide. A decision that has caused discussion… A Star has risen 49
TESTIMONIALS -5°C Cantaloup, white cheese, bergamot orange The establishment, a spin-off of the gourmet restaurant Sur in Thaichung, opened its doors in 2021 offering exclusively desserts and gelato made by the pastry chef Arwin Wan. The refined creations are served at the table, following a seven-course tasting menu that varies according to the seasons and the availability of ingredients. Gelato thus becomes a dish, the result of an extreme study of flavours, textures, temperatures. Taste is accompanied by sight, thanks to refined consideration of the aesthetic aspect of each composition. -196°C Strawberries, roselle, cream 50
Not just fine dining The 2024 Taiwan Michelin Guide reviewed 343 establishments, 22 more than the previous edition. “The selection - explains Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the guides - reflects Taiwan’s remarkable ability to honour the roots of cuisine while embracing new trends, showing a harmonious mix of innovation and tradition which sets no boundaries”. -12°C Sorrel, perilla, fennel The affinity with the world of fine dining is also revealed in the attention paid to pairing with non-alcoholic drinks, sake and tea. In an environment of frozen essentiality, the high-level service along with the innovative approach to batch-freezing based on modern techniques while interpreting simplicity won over the guide’s inspectors who promoted Minimal from Bib Gourmand to One Michelin Star. Beyond the tasting menu, which is seven courses and lasts two and half hours, the establishment also offers gelato from the counter, six flavours a day and one flavour of the week. It also delivers gift boxes. The gelato cups are enclosed in an elegant box, allowing you indulge in the pleasure of a cold treat directly at home. 40° Longan, osmanthus 51
RECIPES CLASSIC WINTER LOOK By Alice Vignoli Images by Studio Phototecnica Two single-portion desserts perfect for the coldest months, and that help deseasonalize products at your point of sales. Small masterpieces that can be admired in the showcase and offer unforgettable flavour combinations even to the most demanding consumers. Suitable for... • Single-portion desserts • Cakes 52
Black & White INGREDIENTS Amounts for two silicon moulds that are Ø 6 cm, h 5 cm SEMIFREDDO • Fresh cream with 35% fat content 750 g A • Italian meringue 200 g B • Coconut flavour paste 100 g C RECIPE AND ASSEMBLY Prepare 12 disks of chocolate roulade cake with a Ø 8 cm and another 12 disks with a Ø 5 cm. In a bowl, blend the Italian meringue together with the coconut flavour paste. In a stand mixer, whip the fresh cream. Add the whipped cream to the other mixture with a spoon, making sure to not deflate it. Assemble the hemispheres upside down, alternating the coconut semifreddo with the chocolate roulade, following the pattern. Finish the single-portion dessert by topping it off with a roulade disk that is 8 cm in diameter. Place the moulds in the blast freezer until completely hardened. SUMMARY • Blend B + C together • Whip A in a stand mixer • Add A to the rest of the ingredients • Portion into silicone moulds following the pattern DECORATION • Remove the hemispheres from the silicone moulds and place them on the racks • Cover with a chocolate mirror glaze • Place the single-portion desserts on serving trays • Decorate based on the occasion STORAGE The blast-frozen and decorated product can remain in the display case at -19°C for a week. The undecorated product that has been blast-frozen to the core (e.g. -32°C for 1 hour) can be stored at -19°C in a freezer for 3 months. ON THE MARKET You can substitute A + B with a neutral-flavoured whipped base product. Chocolate mirror glaze Chocolate roulade cake Coconut semifreddo Coconut wafer garnish 53
Decoration on theme Black cherry mousse Marbled neutral gelatine Black cherries drowned in the mousse Roulade soaked in bergamot orange syrup Black cherry mousse RECIPES INGREDIENTS Amounts required for ten single-portion desserts that are Ø 5 cm, h 4 cm MOUSSE • Fresh cream with 35% fat content 1000 g A • Italian meringue 300 g B • Black cherry flavour paste 100 g C • Sheet gelatine 10 g D • Juice of one lemon E RECIPE AND ASSEMBLY Prepare the moulds by cutting thin disks of sponge cake or roulade with a circle cookie cutter. The disks need to be the same diameter of the single-portion mould. Protect the inner edge with some acetate cake collar of the same height as the mould. Wet the sponge cake with a sugar syrup flavoured with a bergamot infusion. In a bowl, mix the black cherry paste and lemon juice together. Add the sheet gelatine that has been previously rehydrated in cold water then melted in the microwave. Gently incorporate the Italian meringue into the mix. Whip the fresh cream to soft peaks in the stand mixer. Add the whipped cream to the rest of the ingredients, one spoon at a time making sure to not deflate the mixture. Quickly portion the semifreddo into the moulds remembering to “drown” in the middle of the semifreddo some black cherries that have already been drained from their juice. Place the moulds in the blast freezer until completely hardened. SUMMARY • In a bowl combine E + C • Rehydrate D and add to mixture • Incorporate B • Whip A in a stand mixer and add to the rest of the ingredients • Portion into the moulds while adding the black cherry insert DECORATION • Once the mousse has hardened, cover with thin layer of neutral gelatine and marble as desired • Remove the single portions from the moulds using the dedicated extractor tool • Place on small trays and proceed to decorate based on the occasion 54
Suitable for... • Single-portion desserts • Cakes • Loafs on a baking sheet STORAGE The blast-frozen and decorated product can remain in the display case at -19°C for two weeks or in the display case at +4°C for 3 days. The undecorated product that has been blast-frozen to the core (e.g. -32°C for 1 hour) can be stored at -19°C in a freezer for 3 months. ON THE MARKET You can substitute the whipped products A+B with a neutral-flavoured base product for mousses. 55
RECIPES GELATO AND PIZZA By Antonio Mezzalira 56
with fruit base 50 INGREDIENTS: • lemon juice 200 g • grapefruit 50 g • water 430 g • thyme 5 g • sucrose 120 g • dextrose 60 g • dry glucose syrup 30 de 100 g • fruit base 50 35 g Total 1000 g with fruit base 100 INGREDIENTS: • lemon juice 200 g • grapefruit 50 g • water 430 g • thyme 5 g • sucrose 110 g • dextrose 45 g • dry glucose syrup 30 de 90 g • fruit base 100 70 g Total 1000 g SUGGESTION To flavour more intensely the sorbet, during the batch-freezing process, add the zest of one organic lemon for every 4 kg of sorbetto. INSTRUCTIONS Mix well the base with the sugars then blend with water. To this sugar mixture, add the lemon juice and the grapefruit juice that has been passed through the extractor. When the mixture reaches 4°C, add the thyme and blend, then batch freeze. Make portions of about 40 g and arrange them on a white pizza topped with sauteed artichokes and grated salted ricotta. Cynara Two products that identify Italy as a country and that represent authentic icons of Italian-made excellence. In a classic menu, they can be enjoyed together as a perfect combination. And for the artisan, here are some ideas to create inviting savoury gelato together with specialty baked items, ranging from savoury to sweet, reserving unexpected surprises and lots of flavour. 57
RECIPES with cream base 50 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 530 g • cream with 35% fat content 200 g • skim milk powder 25 g • trehalose 90 g • dextrose 50 g • dry glucose syrup 30 de 40 g • anchovies in oil 30 g • cream base 50 35 g Total 1000 g with cream base 100 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 530 g • cream with 35% fat content 200 g • skim milk powder 20 g • trehalose 80 g • dextrose 30 g • dry glucose syrup 30 de 40 g • anchovies in oil 30 g • cream base 100 70 g Total 1000 g Add to the milk one clove of garlic with the germ removed for every kg of gelato, then boil it. INSTRUCTIONS Drain the oil from the anchovies and boil the garlic with a part of the milk from the recipe. Heat to 85°C all the ingredients that have been blended well, except the anchovies and the garlic. Cool the mixture to 4°C, then add the anchovies and the garlic and blend. Then pour into the batch freezer. Extract the gelato and blast freeze for ten minutes to stabilize it, or fill silicon moulds then remove from moulds to put on the pizza. Place the gelato on a tomato pizza, add oregano if desired or fill puff pastry baskets with tomatoes to obtain a reinvented Marinara pizza. SUGGESTION If you want to use the gelato on a hot pizza, you will need to portion the gelato into small baskets made with the pizza dough to avoid direct contact with heat that would cause it to melt quickly. Marinara 58
with cream base 50 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 650 g • mascarpone 50 g • skim milk powder 35 g • sucrose 80 g • inverted sugar 20 g • dextrose 30 g • spreadable hazelnut cream 100 g • cream base 50 35 g Total 1000 g with cream base 100 INGREDIENTS: • fresh whole milk 650 g • mascarpone 50 g • skim milk powder 20 g • sucrose 70 g • inverted sugar 20 g • dextrose 20 g • spreadable hazelnut cream 100 g • cream base 100 70 g Total 1000 g INSTRUCTIONS Blend well all the ingredients, except the spreadable hazelnut cream and the mascarpone, then heat to 85°C in the pasteurizer vat. As the mixture cools, once it is at a temperature below 40°C, extract the mixture. Add the two remaining ingredients and blend well. Add the obtained mixture to the batch freezer. Dolcè Extract the gelato, blast freeze at below-freezing temperatures for five minutes, then transfer to display case. This gelato is to be paired with a focaccia or a white pizza with raspberries and mint leaves. You can also add some hazelnut pieces and a few drops of spreadable hazelnut cream. SUGGESTION If you want to use the gelato on a hot pizza, you will need to portion the gelato into small baskets made with the pizza dough to avoid direct contact with heat that would cause it to melt quickly. 59
COMPETITIONS According to the Chinese zodiac, 2024 was the year of the dragon. And it was precisely a gelato chef from China, Bang Gai, to earn the 2024 Procopio Cutò award at Sherbeth, an event held every year in Palermo (Sicily, Italy). The professional is the owner, together with his wife Ivy Li, of “Sette” gelato shop in Hangzhou, and he knew how to win over the jury with his flavour “Lemon Tree”. It is a creation made with Aquilaria, an ancient aromatic plant native to Asia that is used in traditional medicine and in creating fragrances. The recipe was formulated with the addition of lemon, a traditional citrus fruit from territory in which the competition is held, and a drop of Sicilian olive oil. “The idea”, commented the winner, “was to create a gelato that could unite Chinese and Sicilian traditions”. The Italian Alessia Palmitessa earned second place together with Giacomo Banchini, from the Cioccolateria Banchini gelato shop, with their flaThe maestro gelato chef Bang Gai from Hangzhou (China) won the 2024 edition of Sherbeth, a prestigious event dedicated to artisanal gelato. Second and third place were awarded to two Italian professionals. From left Riccardo Primiani, Bang Gai, Ivy Li, Alessia Palmitessa, Giacomo Banchini, Sherbeth 2024 winners. The year of the dragon 60
vour “Fior di cascara”. It is a fiordilatte infused with the husks of cocoa beans and sweetened with cane sugar, then infused with Tagete Minuta flowers. The gelato is then ribbonedwith a gel madewith cocoa bean mucilage and a vtuber Ecuador 80% chocolate. The Italian Riccardo Primiani from the Da Teo gelato and pastry shop earned third place with his gelato made from cascara (fermented coffee husks) infused in milk and cream and enriched with alianthos honey and Andaliman pepper. From all over the world The 2024 edition of Sherbeth offered many booths that stood out from the typical fuchsia colour of the event, with 48 flavours from all around the globe, in particular from France, China, the Netherlands, Finland, United Kingdom, Switzerland, Belgium, Japan, Taiwan, and Poland. During the Procopio Cutò competition, the maestro gelato chefs prepared a new flavour that was revealed only to members of the jury, which was composed of: Michele Fino, from the University of Pollenzo (Cuneo, Italy); Fabio Marasti, winner of last year’s Sherbeth; Nerina Di Nunzio, professor of the Gastronomic Sciences class at the Roma Tre University; Massimiliano Magli and Stefano Pedrieri from the Italian National Research Council (CNR); Pamela Francescato, a journalist from Italian Foreign Press Association. Among the aspects considered for awarding the best gelato, the decisive factors are respecting the best production techniques, carefully selecting raw ingredients, and presentation. “We are proud to have an event in Palermo that is known all over the world” declared Davide Alamia, who with Piergiorgio Martorana, have organized the Sherbeth Festival for over sixteen years. “Considering the international spirit of the event, we are especially happy that the Procopio Cutò award has starting using its passport again, this time to fly to China. This will definitely 61
COMPETITIONS help spread the culture of Italian-style artisanal gelato in the Far East even more”. Among the most interesting new developments of the event, an “open air” kitchen allowed visitors to discover how real Italian-style artisanal gelato is produced. Hospitality and freedom During the past edition of Sherbeth, two new initiatives were presented: the creation of two special flavours, one dedicated to hospitality and another dedicated to freedom. The flavour of hospitality was created as a part of the social and professional inclusion project Moltivolti, which promotes food as a tool for dialogue between people from different cultures. Born ten years ago in the Ballarò neighbourhood of Palermo, the project involves a group of people from eight countries (Senegal, Zambia, Afghanistan, Bangladesh, France, Spain, Gambia and Italy) who opened, among other things, an artisanal gelato shop. Gelato has thus become a vehicle for inclusion, hospitality and opportunities. All the gelato chefs present at the festival reiterated their commitment to teach “the art of making gelato” to those who have arrived from far away. The flavour of freedom was produced exclusively with ingredients from land confiscated from the mafia. The gelato chefs Vincenzo Lenci, Ilenia Zoli and Francesco Citarda proposed a honey and saffron flavour. 62
A big family For the organizers of Sherbeth it is not easy to select the fifty flavours that then compete for the Procopio Cutò prize every year. In fact, hundreds of applications are submitted coming from every continent. “Sherbeth is not a classic and sterile competition”, comments Antonio Cappadonia, the technical director of the initiative. “Sherbeth is now a large family of professionals scattered all over the world. Because every year, those who have participated in the competition, want to return, even if they were not selected, either to help with the organization of the event or to enjoy the behind-thescenes experience. And, perhaps, that’s exactly what we wanted when we came up with this competition almost twenty years ago”. Together with Cappadonia, there are longstanding personalities of Sherbeth, such as Arnaldo Conforto and Vittorio Pasquetti, who are members of the technical committee. Joining them is Giovanna Musumeci, the daughter of one of the best Italian gelato maestros, who was especially connected to the Sherbeth “family”. 63
RECIPES CITRUS FRUITS GALORE By Beppo Tonon Images by Studio Phototecnica The choice of typical winter fruit leaves ample room for creativity. With skilful carving, oranges, mandarin oranges and grapefruits give life to a spectacular choreography that makes your lunch break, snack or dessert unique. 64
This carpaccio, which ensures a spectacular effect, is very simple to make. Oranges, pink grapefruits and Satsuma mandarins are the protagonists of this sparkling elaboration. Place a candied apricot in the centre to give a touch of sweetness to a dish that is perfect for a lunch break, for a light snack or as a refreshing dessert. ChooseaChinesemandarinwithsmoothskin, Riberaoranges, andpink grapefruit, which, when compared to the yellow one, is less bitter and has a thinner skin. The fruits must not be too large, so that they are easier and quick to handle. They should be of medium ripeness to prevent the pulp from being excessively resistant to being cut if unripe and from falling apart if too ripe. First, wash and dry them very well before cutting. Slice the three types of citrus fruits by adjusting the slicer to a thickness of about 2 mm. Arrange the Satsuma mandarin carpaccio in a circular direction. Very carefully fold in half the orange and grapefruit slices, then fold again, and arrange in a circle. Choose a candied apricot and, with the help of a small carving knife which should be held tilted inwards, make four incisions, creating what will then be the petals of the flower. Then remove the central part of the fruit by rotating it; in the centre, place a small, folded slice of Satsuma mandarin. For the lateral decorations, use a small orange, and with a suitably sized V-shaped fruit carving knife, make several vertical incisions on the peel to obtain ornamental grooves; once you have finished cutting grooves into the entire fruit, with a sharp knife, cut slices width wise with the same thickness. Choose the slices with a small diameter and fold them in half, then again, and place them on the plate. Finally, place the pedicel with the leaf. All-around 65
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