Sweetmood No30 - May 2022

CONTENTS Editorial 7 Contributors 9 Talent, passion, creativity 10 Chestnut pudding 16 The new year at the table 20 Carbonara 26 Green revolution 30 A renaissance for butter 34 An ancient but current ritual 38 Chocolate dessert 42 Pastry arts and climate change 46 Tuna burgers 50 Pastry collection 54 In partnership with 88 Year 11 - No. 30 May 2022

EDITORIAL Made in Italy is growing strongly! All the indicators show a renewed revival of Made in Italy products throughout the world, except for the territories affected by the surreal war that was unleashed madly in the 21st century, just when the notorious pandemic was beginning to decline in intensity. In recent months, we have listened to many national and international professionals, and we have felt the pulse of the market. Everywhere we went, we found that we have started up again with a great desire to work! Trade fairs have returned to their in-person formats. Sigep, even though later than originally scheduled, went well, as did the Spanish fairs Intersicop and Alimentaria; we had excellent feedback during ExpoSweet in Warsaw, and Gulfood in Dubai was a great success. In these contexts, “Italy” as a product is very strong, both in the foodservice industry, as well as in the artisanal sweets industry especially. In this issue of SweetMood, you will find different ideas and recipes to discover new and unexpected ingredients. We address the theme of sustainability and we have dedicated the cover and the feature to Annalisa Borella, creative pastry chef with great talent and ability. Happy reading, and we will see you again this upcoming autumn, hoping that in the meantime the world will come to its senses. Franco Cesare Puglisi 7

CONTRIBUTORS SWEETMOOD-puntoITALY Milan - Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Three-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 11 - No. 30 - May 2022 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Monica Viani Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca Patrick Hopkins Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv srl - Milan Editrade srl - Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - 20133 Milan, I Tel. +39 02 70004960 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Arti Grafiche M. & G. Pirovano Segrate (Milan, I) All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. Giuseppe Iannotti Master chef Annalisa Borella Pastry chef Errico Recanati Master chef Monica Viani Reporter Daniele Rebosio Master chef 9

10 FROM THE COVER Photo by Alessandro Madami

11 TALENT, PASSION, CREATIVITY Annalisa Borella isn’t just a pastry chef, she’s a creative artist. For her pastry is more than a job, it’s a form of expression. She’s a woman who has embarked on a journey that - if you’re always on the lookout for the beautiful and the good - never ends. Born in Brescia in 1984, she boasts a truly prestigious curriculum. Since she was a teenager she has been attracted to art and its ability to express energy and freedom. So to meet her parents’ expectations without denying her penchant for art, she graduated from a scientific high school with an artistic focus. After moving to Rome, she chose dance as her form of creative expression. She is attracted to movement, to the plasticity of bodies that are freed from all constraints. She became a professional dancer, all the while exploring a new passion, cooking for herself and friends. Important milestones The desire for a child and diminishing opportunities to work drove her to follow her love for sweets, becoming a cake designer. She achieved great success and so decided to perfect her technique by enrolling at the Les Chef Blancs school directed by Igles Corelli. Here she learned from Loretta Fanella and Andrea De Bellis, sharing By Monica Viani ideas and passions. It was her first encounter with modern pastry. A true breakthrough. From Andrea De Bellis she learned the latest trends of international pastry, while Loretta Fanella guided her on an exploration of plated desserts. After returning to Brescia, she applied to work as a pastry chef at the best restaurants. One of these was Albereta, at that time directed by Gualtiero Marchesi, the Master of Italian cuisine. Her application was accepted and so she had the chance to work with a man who Annalisa describes as “a personality beyond classification, brilliant, capable of expressing himself in a thousand ways”. On a technical level the job taught her simplicity, while on a human level she learned how to create something to give to others. Annalisa followed Marchesi to Marchesino, but soon she felt the need to gain experience abroad, and so she participated in an internship with the Roca brothers. For her it meant rethinking her education, calling into question all the rules she’d learned. Jordi Roca is a pastry chef who expresses himself with ex-


13 ceptional creative freedom. His statements in which he says he thinks backwards and wants to speak only through his work have become legendary. The Spanish pastry chef claims the priority of aroma over flavour, so much so that he takes inspiration for his creations from the woods and the smells of nature. He taught Annalisa that pastry is freedom, the ability to surprise and amaze. Back in Italy, she continued her training at the two-star Villa Feltrinelli restaurant, where she met chef Stefano Baiocco, the professional who most influenced the construction of her way of understanding the art of desserts. Baiocco’s pastry shop was the essence of organization, rigor, and technique. Annalisa didn’t stop there, and in 2019 she landed at Mauro Colagreco’s prestigious Mirazur, the year the restaurant earned three Michelin stars and third place as the best restaurant in the world according to the 50th Best Restaurant List. Here she created sweets, constantly inventing new recipes. Annalisa

14 FROM THE COVER described this experience as “a beautiful, incredible adventure, at times a bit crazy. I still remember one morning when the chef showed up at 11:30 am with some zucchini picked from the garden, asking me for a dessert for lunch!” An experience that taught her the importance of studying the ingredient. Today sheisaconsultant forplateddesserts at Alta Formazione in Tione (in the province of Trento), and she also works as a pastry consultant with important starred restaurants. Annalisa now feels the need to share her knowledge, to teach and create new formats such as, for example, the concept of the “long breakfast,” a gourmet breakfast with both sweet and savoury dishes. Love for learning Annalisa was late to the profession of pastry chef, she struggled to find her way, she missed the time offered by traditional schooling. She learned the value of hard work, not to mention the importance of teamwork, and that’s why she wants to make her experience available to future pastry chefs. Pastry is more than a job, it’s a form of expression. It’s a search for elegance, beauty, taste, but also energy and kindness. It’s a way of interpreting life, of searching for lightness and the right balance. By its nature, it eludes definition. Different occasions, different seasons give rise to different methods of creation. Tradition and innovation alternate as if in a dance, as in the flow of water that effortlessly takes on different forms without ever losing its essence. This is what Annalisa teaches young people. Talking to her, we discovered that she still has a dream to strive for, to publish recipes in a magazine so as to create a direct line with professionals and inaugurate a new mode of communication capable of overcoming prejudices, the competition with others, to instead focus on becoming one’s best self. Only when pastry chefs become aware that a dessert is the conclusion of a journey, of an experience, will the art of dessert be recognized as essential to the success of a lunch or dinner. In order for this to happen, it is necessary to learn to dialog, debate, and cooperate.


Delicate and tasty, refined and nutritious, chestnut pudding is a great dessert for parties and important ceremonies. The addition of coffee brings out the aroma of the chestnut, the autumn fruit par excellence. CHESTNUT PUDDING By Annalisa Borella 16 RECIPES

COMPOSITION • chestnut cream • chestnut pudding • coffee shortcrust • chestnut petals CHESTNUT CREAM • roast chestnuts 1500 g • cream 3 l Vacuum pack the ingredients and leave overnight in the fridge. Blend well and recover the liquid by filtering it, straining it with a fine-meshed strainer, or using a cheesecloth. Add cream as necessary to reach the weight needed to make the pudding. CHESTNUT PUDDING • chestnut cream 480 g • sugar 30 g • isinglass 6 g • salt 2 g Heat the cream with the sugar to 60°C. Remove from the heat, add the previously rehydrated isinglass and salt. Pour into moulds or fill cups and place them in the freezer. 17

COFFEE SHORTCRUST • butter 280 g • powdered sugar 90 g • flour 285 g • salt 4 g • soluble coffee powder 5 g In a planetary mixer mix the butter with the sugar, then add the flour, salt, and coffee powder. Leave the dough to rest in the fridge for two hours. Take the dough and roll it out between two sheets of baking paper to a height of 2 mm. Bake in a static oven at 170°C for 6 minutes. Remove from the oven and use a cutter of the desired diameter to cut some shortcrust discs. Finish cooking the dough for another 4-5 minutes. You can also use the shortcrust as a crumble or give it the shape you prefer. Since it’s very crumbly, it’s best to handle it delicately only when it has cooled off. CHESTNUT PETALS • chestnuts 5 Peel and laminate the chestnuts. Bake in the oven at 160°C for 10 minutes. ASSEMBLY Assemble everything starting from the shortcrust. Place the pudding on top and finish with the chestnut “petals.” 18 RECIPES Designed by xb 100 / Freepik



Technology for the foodservice industry, the comeback of desserts, and alcohol-free drinks are just some of the trends of 2022. Some of them are evergreen classics, but some interesting news ones are making their way. Even though the uncertainty of Covid makes it difficult to make predictions on culinary trends for 2022, some direction is emerging clearly. In addition to the consolidation of interest for transparency, ethics, reliability and sustainability, the desire to create a life which identifies with values that respect nature and humankind are evident. For example, the international experts of Whole Food Market highlight great interest in greenhouse vegetables grown with natural sunlight and with one hundred percent renewable energy. At the same time, there is interest in regenerative agriculture, whose goal is to avoid agricultural soil depletion. In this context, we try to identify which will be the behaviours of consumers this year, underlining some of the critical points that have emerged from rapid technological advances. Technology and foodservice Today, the food world is increasingly attentive to new technologies. The latest development comes from the US, where home deliveries are made by drones. Currently, the service is provided only in towns located outside of urban cities and in places where the weather allows for it, but soon it could also be offered in metropolitan areas. This terrorizes restauranteurs that fear radical changes in foodservice concepts. Louis Hansel Shotsoflouis-on Unsplash 21

thanks to those who have financial strength and are promoted by chefs that have been transformed into television stars. The changes will not stop there. In addition to delivery apps, new technologies are being developed for cooking and reheating to better preserve the aromas and warmth of ordered dishes. In the meantime, research continues for synthetic meat production for sustainability’s and for health’s sake. Playing between sweet and savoury 2022 is the year of the dessert. Google Trends confirms that in the first months of the year, many people searched for the word “desserts”, focusingmore on traditional options. The theme is going back to your orFor a few years now, ghost restaurants, that is, shared spaces for chefs without restaurants that are supported by perfect logistics able to provide take-away, have made it possible for anyone to create and expand a restaurant brand without the costs and worries of maintaining a physical space. Now, technology seems to promise overcoming even the geographical boundaries of a city, lowering time limits. These sudden changes lead us to question the possibility that in the not-so-distant future there could be restaurants that exist only online, enjoying the same charm of the digital stores that sell clothes or beauty products. Not only that, there is fear of a boom of a new generation of fast food, that will succeed Gubana ph. Giorgio Bertuzzi 22 TRENDS

igins. The baby boomer generation - those born between the second half of the forties and the second half of the sixties - after having forgotten their passion for molecular gastronomy, is now re-evaluating traditional and forgotten flavours. As often happens, the imposition of a trend can also lead to the affirmation of the complete opposite. Those who have always chosen innovation have accepted the challenge and are proposing deconstructed traditional or classic recipes. They are studying the presentation of a dish or a dessert that is completely different from the original one. The idea is to offer a recipe that is unrecognizable to your eyes but similar in flavour; it means using all of the ingredients foreseen by tradition but assembling them in a way that surprises your eyes. Not only are they playing with forms, but also with textures and temperatures. An additional gamble is to offer as dessert dishes that have always been considered savoury: this trend is occurring in both the foodservice and the pastry industries, the latter finding a new way to set up surprising display cases. In restaurant settings, menus are offering appetizers, such as a mushroom crème brulé, made with eggs and mushrooms and the caramelized top made with sugar and porcini mushroom powder, or offering desserts such as a sweet fondue. The most daring go further and are pushing to add or eliminate an ingredient that is usually considered fundamental for the success of a classic recipe. The less daring limit themselves to small changes like substituting fruit with vegetables, or adding to a classic pear cake some black sesame seeds to enhance the overall flavour. Alternatively, there are those who want to “contaminate” their offer by using exotic ingredients that recall far-off culinary cultures, making desserts such as Matcha tea tiramisu. Internet also suggests which trends will be the new ones for the next few years. On Google, searches for “unusual cake ideas,” “artistic ideas for desserts” and “3D cakes” are growing. Only the next years will be able to tell if traditional or innovation that also uses technology will prevail. Regarding ingredients, the search of alternatives to 00 wheat flour continues. Joining the success of flours made from ancient grains, we are witnessing the search for products such as rice, almond or coconut flours. 23

Alcohol-free drinks Consumer’s search for alcohol-free drinks is growing. This year is the launch year for new lines of drinks that combine the flavour and elegance of alcohol without containing any. Removing alcohol is a practice allowed by the European community since 2009 for general wines at a maximum of 20 percent. The alcohol content afterwards cannot be less than 9 percent. Originally this procedure was accepted in order to respond to problems caused by climate change. The market has acknowledged it, also following indications that come from analysing young people’s behaviour. According to recent research, 56 percent of millennials consider themselves “conscious drinkers,” worrying more about the quality than the quantity of what they are drinking. To tell the story of those who are not teetotallers but who attentively consider the effects that alcohol abuse can have on their bodies, the writer Ruby Warrington coined the term “sober curious,” which quickly became a claim for a new lifestyle. Not only drinks similar to wine, in 2022 a modern version of tea-time is taking off: a new trend that includes “vintage tea parties” or “tea hour snacks” which are leading to the rediscovery of select teas that are less well known, such as Butterfly Pea Tea. International cuisine intrigues Online research reveals the growing interest in international cuisines. Right now, it is time for Filipino, Russian, South Africa and Arabic cuisines. This increases the consumption of ingredients from afar, such as algae, which are the star of many different Asian and vegetarian dishes, as well as the increased use of spices. The most sought after is turmeric, or the Golden spice. Loved by vegetarians and considered a supplement, it is used mostly for adding flavour to soups, pancakes, fruit and vegetable smoothies, plant-based gelato, teas, coffees and numerous entrees. Moringa, a highly enjoyed spice in India stockimagefactorycom 24 TRENDS

The success of Instagram Food Instagram is a great way to gauge future trends. If you scroll through the profiles dedicated to desserts, you find that cakes that disobey the rigid rules of modern pastry are increasingly successful. Cakes that have gone viral are the ones that are richly decorated, so much so to seem almost bizarre, if not kitsch. It is difficult to define the style, and even more difficult to describe them. If on one hand, imperfection is surely the result of the incompetence of those who improvised being pastry chefs during lockdown, on the other hand you notice the desire to contradict the minimalism of expert pastry chefs to impose a new aesthetic style. The desire to not follow the aesthetic rules of desserts that for years have imposed clean and refined lines is evident. Yet these grotesque cakes have won the favour and empathy of users, so much so that Netflix has launched different contests such as Nailed it!, challenges that are not able to entice your sweet tooth, but can definitely make you smile and amaze you. An unexpected triumph that pushed many Instagrammers to sell their creations successfully. for sauces, baked goods and smoothies, is also making its way. Other new trends include sunflower seeds, used mainly for crackers, creamy cheeses and gelato. Rediscovery of charcuterie boards For happy hour or as an appetizer, sliced cured meats boards are making a comeback, often accompanied with cheeses. Italian tradition has it that cured meats are to be arranged, with some slices rolled up while others are left lying flat, and the cheeses are to be sliced. It should all be arranged on a medium sized board and accompanied with small bowls of olives, sauces, honey, vegetables, jams and often figs. The open spaces can be filled with nuts or fresh fruit. The board is always accompanied by a breadbasket, which can be filled with bread or breadsticks. freepik ph. Giorgio Bertuzzi 25

By Errico Recanati Carbonara served as a dessert. A provocation that initially entertains and intrigues the eyes and then immediately after the taste buds. CARBONARA Chef of the restaurant Andreina in Loreto, with one Michelin Star photo by Wilson Santinelli 26 RECIPES


CRISPY COCONUT (replaces the Pecorino cheese) • sugar 250 g • water 250 g • coconut 1 Make a syrup with water and sugar. Vacuum pack the syrup with the coconut and place in the fridge for 24 hours. Strain with a chinois to remove the excess syrup and dry. PUFFED RIGATONI • rigatoni (weight based on the medium-small size of pasta) • sugar • cinnamon • orange peel • lemon peel Cook the rigatoni in water with sugar, cinnamon, orange peel, and lemon for about 30minutes. ZABAIONE MOUSSE • milk 500 g • egg yolk 200 g • sugar 200 g • cream 500 g • isinglass 16 g • Marsala 700 g • cream 500 g Cook the milk, egg yolks, cream (500 g) and sugar like a crème anglaise. Add the isinglass and the last 500 grams of cream. Add the Marsala reduced to 200 grams. Load the siphon with two cartridges. 28 RECIPES

CRÈME ANGLAISE WITH LEMON • milk 500 g • lemon zest 10 g • sugar 125 g • salt 2 g GOAT CHEESE GELATO • water 200 g • glucose 100 g • sugar 150 g • lemon juice 50 g • goat cheese 500 g • stabilizer 3 g Combine the water and glucose. Heat to 35°C and then add the sugar mixed with the stabilizer. At 50°C add the lemon juice. Remove the mix from the heat when it reaches 85°C. Cool quickly and add the goat cheese. Place in the blast freezer. Process with the Pacojet. Three Forks Chef Errico Recanati of the Marche region, owner of the Andreina Restaurant in Loreto, in the province of Ancona, was awarded the coveted Three Forks by the 2022 Italian Restaurant Guide. The award was given to him for his ability to preserve memory and tradition by amplifying it with an avant-garde vision through which the distant sensations of Marche cuisine re-emerge. What particularly struck the jury was his experimentation with local ingredients. His recipes always prioritize the search for combinations that can impress the senses of sight, taste, smell, and touch. 29


Racool_studio - Freepik topntp26 - Freepik Reducing waste in the kitchen is one of the objectives set in the 2030 agenda of the UN Assembly for Sustainable Development. Even chefs are embracing the green revolution. The cooking world is siding with those who firmly ask for attention in defending the environment. For chefs and pastry chefs, this means limited leftovers and paying more attention to the ingredients used. It has now become clear that a real cultural revolution must be carried out: rather than avoiding waste, it must be prevented. To do so, it is necessary to put into practice the so-called “circular food system” or “zero waste kitchen”, which foresees avoiding any waste. To affirm sustainable development, we can start with rethinking the use of fruits and vegetables. The peels, as science reminds us, are rich in fibre, nutrients and aromatic substances. Using them can become a green weapon. Every day, between cores, peels and outer leaves, fifty percent of fruits and vegetables are thrown in the trash. By defeating stupid prejudices, we can finally overcome the dichotomy between the “noble” part and the scraps, studying new recipes that pay attention not only to flavour but also to the health of our Planet. Circular food system Using the peels when cooking is no longer heresy. Sometimes it is necessary to cook them, but often they can be used raw. Of course, not all peels are cre31

Claudio Pantoni on Unsplash Racool_studio - Freepik Topntp26 - Freepik ated equally. Some are hard or fibrous, others are soft. Each requires its own technique to be used or cooked. Specifically, as far as fruit is concerned, it is only a habit, without any motivation, to remove the peel and the seeds. In reality, it is precisely in the peel that we can find the most minerals, fibre, vitamins, flavonoids, polyphenols and carotenoids. An example for everyone is the banana, whose peel is a real treasure chest of antioxidants; it is also richer in fibre, beta-carotene and calcium than the pulp is. In order to not throw it away, you can take advantage of its beneficial properties by adding a few pieces, after washing it, into a smoothie or blended drink. Seeds are another hidden source of great health benefits. Antibacterial properties have been identified in the oil extract from apple seeds, whereas in grape seeds a high level of protein, good fats and fibre have been detected. Seeds are often discarded only due to a cultural prejudice, but they could be added to teas or used to dress salads. Using the peels Sustainable cooking focuses on three cornerstones. Plant-based nutrition, the study of techniques to enhance the properties of each ingredient, and the need to avoid producing waste. Peels can enhance dishes as-is, or they can be used fermented, dried, sprouted, steamed, microwaved, cooked in a pan or in a pressure cooker. The only precautions to take regard the freshness of the raw material, as they cannot be stored for a long time in the refrigerator. In case of needing to preserve them, it is better to use fermentation (which even enhances the ingredient), drying or freezing. When cooking, it is better not to prolong boiling to avoid losing any phytocompounds, so any long cooking times are not recommended. 32 KNOW-HOW

Freepik Stockking Freepik There are thousands of ways to use vegetable and fruit scraps. With carrot tops you can make a dip to be spread on toast; with radish greens you can obtain delicious pesto. After having steamed and seasoned cauliflower or broccoli leaves, you can use them to dress pasta, prepare soups or as a filling for a savoury cake or fresh pasta. Fruit lends itself to numerous uses in both sweet and savoury pastries, as well as drinks for happy hour. An example is watermelon, which you can use to make a watermelon and tomato gazpacho and a juice by adding peppers and strawberries. Not only that, by roasting the seeds you can enhance smoothies and juices or prepare a kind of butter; with the rind, you can make a marinated carpaccio or a mostarda. To decorate sweets, candied peels can be obtained from oranges, lemons or butternut squash. The leftover pulp of oranges and lemons can be used to make cakes, gelato, popsicles or used in fruit salads. Apple cores can be added to a smoothie, or if pureed on their own they can be used when making a cake. 33


Sorin Gheorghita on Unsplash Thanks to a series of scientific studies that have been published since 2014 in the USA, we are experiencing butter’s comeback, an ingredient that is often accused of being harmful to our health. French pastry chefs have always kept a secret: their pastries had to contain a lot of butter. Everyone knew that, but few proudly declared it. Butter was considered an enemy of our health. But what until now was considered unhealthy is now being reconsidered. Recently, science has re-evaluated the organoleptic nobility of one of the most demonized ingredients. To do so, of course, as with all ingredients, it must be a product of utmost quality! Its properties Since ancient times, butter was considered valuable thanks to its richness in vitamins and flavour, as well as for being palatable. Today we know that it is an animal fat, it is low in lactose, and it is rich in vitamins such as A, K and the rare and sought-after D. Furthermore, it is easily digestible, as it does not contain hydrogenated vegetable fats. It also has a good melting point. For a long time, it was considered to blame for high cholesterol levels, unbalanced diets and obesity, despite its nutritional properties. Finally, today it has been given dignity as a product that from a nutritional standpoint is unique and healthy. This is thanks to producers that have improved quality and have started communicating the existence of the many types of different aromas. The production chain has also gained importance, starting with the raising and feeding of the cows and going all the way to the quality of the milk. 35

Butter vs extra virgin olive oil Butter contains less calories than extra virgin olive oil (680 Kcal per 100 g of butter against 920 Kcal for oil). Furthermore, butter is easier to dose, and it is hardly contaminated by chemicals which are often found in low-quality industrial oils. The different types The best butter is centrifuged, made by churning the cream obtained from centrifuged milk. It is a simple physical process. The freshly milkedmilk is placed in a centrifuge: on one side the milk comes out, and on the other there is a very fresh cream. The milk fat all goes into butter. Butter made from surfacing, which is the most common in Italy, comes from the cream that is left over after producing Grana Padano or other cheeses. There is also a third type of butter, whey butter, which is the least prized. Theoretically, it is not a true butter in that it is obtained after the cheesemaking process. An alternative that is quickly gaining consumer’s attention is goat butter, rich in fatty acids. It is formed by molecules that are smaller than those of cow’s milk, making it more digestible. It also contains some substances that have been dubbed “cholesterol scavengers”, keeping the cholesterol content low. Use in the pastry kitchen In Italy, the culture of using butter is more widespread in the central north, also due to problems related to temperature. It is found in many pastry preparations. It is used mostly in sponge cakes 36 KNOW-HOW Sincerely Media on Unsplash Simon Sapper on Unsplash

cakes and crumb coatings, that is, when levelling a cake before covering it with fondant. The melting point The difficulty in using butter in pastry arts lies precisely in the melting point, which can vary based on the season. To overcome this difficulty, the advice is to use quality butter, avoiding substitutes or vegetable-based products. Some pastry chefs prefer to use margarine, conand whipped doughs. In particular, to balance whipped doughs, the four key ingredients must be used in equal quantities, but lighter versions can be obtained by reducing the quantity of butter, sugar and flour. The best-known applications of butter-based doughs are pound cakes, frangipani cakes, muffins, butter cakes and cookies. The butter must have a whipped consistency and at a temperature between 24°C and 26°C, bearing in mind that when the butter is processed in the mixer the temperature of the dough will rise. The choice of using a whisk is made based on the amount of air to be incorporated. Butter is also often used in creams, in traditional homemade The book of the turning point “The Big Fat Surprise”, written by Nina Teicholz, a famous American journalist, is the title of the book that revolutionized the judgment of butter. The journalist retraces the stages on the war against saturated fats, underlining the pressure from lobbies of vegetable fat producers. The book caused such a stir that in 2015 “Time” dedicated a cover to it with a title that left no doubts: “Eat Butter”. It was accompanied by the loud subtitle “Scientists labelled fat the enemy. Why they were wrong”. sisting most of vegetable fats and made to facilitate reaching the melting point. On the market, blends are available, which are a calibrated mix of butter and margarine with the goal of combining the taste of butter with the practicability and workability ofmargarine. Theseproducts, thanks to the lower melting point, are more palatable and are easier to work with, reducing production times especially during the summertime. 37 Sorin Gheorghita on Unsplash


In the past, raising your glass was a tribute to the gods and the deceased, today it is a nonreligious ritual connected to celebrations and conviviality. Toasting has an ancient history that dates to more than 5000 years ago. According to some testimonies, already the Egyptians would often raise their glasses at weddings. The Greeks and Romans carried on the custom. In a cup like a patera, phiale or kylix, in an amphora like a gutturnium or in a large jug like a rython, they would pour drinks, especially wine, to thank the gods or to honour the deceased. Before making a toast, they would put toasted breadcrumbs in the cup to reduce the acidity of the wine, often considered too bitter. In the tumultuous period of the Roman republic, the toasting ritual could have served to poison opponents. Hitting the glasses together would have allowed the poisoned drink to contaminate the enemy’s glass. The shape of the containers made it possible to poison without creating a scandal. 39

During the Renaissance, toasting lost its link to the sacred and became mainly a way to seal deals, to resolve political or economic diatribes or to settle difficult situations. It is precisely during this time that the Italian term “brindisi” is coined, which today refers to a way to celebrate an event or a person. The most accredited hypothesis traces the term back to the Spanish word “brindis”, which is a transformation of the German expression “bring dir’s” (meaning I bring to you, referring to the greeting or the glass, that is, I drink to your health) used by the Landsknechte mercenaries to address Spanish militias. In the Seventeenth century, the toast began to be associated with festive moments and was often accompanied by poetic compositions to make the evenings pleasant. In the Eighteenth century, it becomes the protagonist of parties in homes, cafés and taverns. From the Twentieth century, it turns into a popular gesture for celebrations, birthdays, but above all to welcome the new year. For all cultures “Qui boit et ne reboit/ il ne scet que boire soit”, he who drinks and does not drink again does not know what drinking is. So recites a Sixteenth century quote depicted in a famous painting by Tiziano, The Bacchanal of the Andrians (1523-1526, Museo Nacional del Prado). The musical score lying in the foreground suggests a link between music and Dionysian pleasures. And it reveals that drinking is a pleasure that one loves to repeat. A similar statement can be found in the Japanese culture, where the expression “kanpai!” invites you to drink until the last drop. Matthieu Joannon on Unsplash 40 INTERESTING FACTS

From sacred to profane Today, toasting has transformed definitely from a sacred ritual to a common and secular custom. Whereas in the past it was mostly to thank the gods for having given life and to ensure prosperity, in modern times it has become a moment to rejoice and pleasantly pass time together with the people you love the most. Despite losing its sacredness, it has preserved some of its rituals even if secular. Usually, toasting occurs while sitting around a table and with several people; often one person makes an invitation to a toast, explaining the reason to celebrate. Raising the glasses, uniting them with happy clinking and enjoying a sip of good wine formalizes the feeling of being united and of solidarity. The opening of the bottle encourages everyone to observe the same action. Even the teetotaller is forced to give in, indulging in the conviction that toasting with water brings bad luck. Toasting can also be experienced in intimacy, often by a couple to consolidate love or friendship. Marymarkevich freepik Mosnel Franciacorta 41

After formative experiences with Alain Ducasse in Paris, Ferran Adrià in Barcelona, and Davide Oldani inVenice, Daniele Rebosio now offers his own cuisine at Hostaria Ducale, the gourmet restaurant situated in the heart of Genoa. CHOCOLATE DESSERT By Daniele Rebosio 42 RECIPES

COMPOSITION • namelaka dark chocolate 85% • orange kappa gelatin • pecan crumble • orange gel • orange and cardamom sorbet • candied orange peel 43

The cuisine of Daniele Rebosio Daniele’s contemporary cuisine is sustainable and elegant while still respecting tradition. His dishes show the influence of international cuisine, especially French. The chef chooses to offer recipes with few ingredients but of the highest quality. His success derives from his ability to find the right balance, playing with the sweet, crunchy, savoury, and acidic qualities of the products used. NAMELAKA DARK CHOCOLATE 85% • dark chocolate 320 g • milk 400 ml • glucose 55° 10 g • cream 200 g • gelatin sheets 1-2 Combine dark chocolate, glucose, and milk and heat at 55°C for 6 minutes. Drip in the cream and finally the gelatin. Pour into moulds and blast freeze. ORANGE KAPPA GELATIN • orange juice 500 ml • sugar 100 g • kappa gelatin 6 g Place all the ingredients in a saucepan, bring to a boil, blend, strain, and use. PECAN CRUMBLE • rice flour 100 g • blended pecans 100 g • butter 100 g • sugar 100 g ORANGE GEL • orange juice 500 g • sugar 100 g • agar 6 g Bring all the ingredients to a boil, blend, strain, and allow to cool. Blend and bring the gel to consistency. Store in a bottle. 44 RECIPES

ORANGE AND CARDAMOM SORBET • orange juice 350 g • water 150 g • sugar 150 g • egg white 30 g • cardamom powder 2% Combine all the ingredients when cold. Mix when cold, blast freeze, and process in the Pacojet. CANDIED ORANGE PEEL • orange peel • sugar • water Julienne the orange peel, blanch it three times, and finish cooking in a TBT syrup. 45


Climate change along with the increase in prices for raw ingredients are forcing us to reflect on the choice of ingredients used for making both sweet and savoury dishes. There is no shortage of those who recreate the flavour of an ingredient by mixing different raw ones. Drought, torrential rains with their consequent flooding, hurricanes and forest fires caused by global warming are generating serious problems for agriculture in many countries. All this has two serious consequences: difficulty in finding certain raw ingredients and the continuous increase in the prices of food products, specifically cereals, oil, dairy, meat and sugar. According to the study published by the World Economic Forum, there are twelve foods to which we will probably say goodbye in the near future. Those most at risk are coffee, rice, chocolate, wine, soybean sprouts, maple syrup, chickpeas, peanuts and avocados. Recording the total amount of economic losses caused by climate change is not easy, as it is impossible to distinguish between events that would have occurred anyway due to natural causes from those caused by the new climatic situation. But the most authoritative insurance company in the world, Swiss Re, has determined that the damage caused by meteorological changes, already in the first few months of this year, has caused losses of 40,000 million dollars. Precisely to overcome the problems related to sustainability, many chefs have decided to avoid using some ingredients, but not to give up their flavours. They have proposed mixes using alternative products. The case of the avocado Avocados, used in various recipes, both savoury and sweet, is one of the most used fruits in international cuisines. However, few know that it is also one of the least sustainable ingredients, as it needs lots of water to grow. One pack of two avocados, according to the Sustainable Food Trust, has a carbon footprint of 846,46 grams of carbon dioxide! The increase in its production in Central and South America has significantly damaged the environment and has caused an increase in prices, making it inaccessible in places where it has always been cultivated. Photoroyalty -Freepik 47

Instead of eggs In both sweet and savoury preparations, eggs can be substituted with fruit and vegetables. So, half of a smashed banana or 40 grams of apple puree can replace an egg. In sweet cakes, muffins, pies or sweet batters, you can obtain the consistency of an egg by using 70 grams of yogurt, 3 spoons of peanut butter or two tablespoons of apple cider vinegar to which you add half a teaspoon of baking soda. In puddings and creams, an egg corresponds to a teaspoon of agar-agar that has been dissolved in a teaspoon of water, or to 40 grams of potato starch. In savoury batters or for omelettes, eggs can be substituted with a tablespoon of flaxseeds, 40 grams of cooked and pureed butternut squash or two tablespoons of chickpea flour, to which to add three tablespoons of water and half a teaspoon of baking soda. Other methods of substituting eggs include using 50 ml of co n d e n s e d milk for each egg, or even by using the cooking For these reasons, many chefs have tried to reduce its use without giving up its flavour. For example, several ways have been studied to make guacamole without using the exotic fruit, by substituting it with fava beans, green chili peppers, lime and cilantro. There are some who have used zucchini puree in its place, adding a pumpkin seed or pistachio paste along with fermented sultana raisins. It is also possible to use Jerusalem artichokes (also known as sunchokes) or peas. In the latter case, the peas are blanched and crushed, then the obtained puree is mixed with a plant-based sour cream. The preparation is finished by adding salt, pepper, crushed garlic and lemon. water of legumes. To glaze leavened doughs or pastry doughs, it is possible to use only milk, or a mixture of water and honey. topntp26- freepik ilovehz - freepik mdjaff - freepik 48 LATEST NEWS

Agroecology, the new cultural revolution Born more than eighty years ago as a response to the failure of the Green Revolution that imposed intensive crops everywhere which seriously endangering biodiversity, agroecology represents a unique opportunity to reconnect with the earth, respecting the life cycle determined by nature and not those determined by economic laws of supply and demand. Its system is based on searching for the connection between land, climate, gastronomy, health, food and culture. To do this, it bets on associated crops as long as they feed by proximity. Not only that, it also develops different techniques to promote pollination and, most importantly, it studies systems to improve soil protection. In general, agroecology respects the natural cycle that goes from the seed to plant development, without forgetting to provide the consumer with the necessary information to make informed choices when purchasing. The objective is to achieve productivity, sustainability and equity, while avoiding negative impacts on the environment by imitating nature’s behaviour and preventing the use of chemicals. All this requires a huge cultural change. The first step is to explain why it is so foolish to consume fruits or vegetables that are out of season or exotic. It is much more correct to encourage the recovery of ancient varieties already present in the territory and with them, make traditional recipes. Substituting 00 flour To replace 00 flour, there are many alternative flours made from nuts, vegetables or cereals. For example, for baked desserts or brownies, it is possible to use almond flour, whereas for making batters for frying, crepes, bread or pancakes, chickpea flour is perfect. As for cookies and crackers, amaranth flour can be used. If the recipe is rich in liquids, it is necessary to use a more absorbent flour such as, for example, spelt flour. Many people use coconut flour, but in this case, when there are also liquid ingredients, the recipe amounts need to be recalibrated in order to balance out coconut flour’s ability to absorb more moisture than 00 flour can. Using rice flour also requires particular care: it is important to let the dough rest before baking, to avoid any rubbery texture. It is recommended to add potato starch (for 75 g of rice flour, add 25 g of potato starch). Finally, for recipes that do not need to rise, oat flour is an excellent alternative. lifeforstock - freepik wirestock - freepik KamranAydinov - freepik 49

The Italian starred chef Giuseppe Iannotti, born in 1982, defined by many as creative, avant-garde, and self-taught, in reality defies definition. In the kitchen of Krèsios and at IannottiLab, his creative workshop, we immerse ourselves in a hive of ideas capable of offering tastes that are always different. TUNA BURGERS By Giuseppe Iannotti Photos by Marco Varoli 50 RECIPES

COMPOSITION • buffalo milk buns 1 • tuna burger 140 g • old cheddar 1 • Dijon mayonnaise 20 g • marinated cucumbers 10 g • onions in vinegar 10 g • lettuce leaf 1 • tomato slices 5 • maldon salt to taste The Tang Zhong technique was used for baking. GEL • flour 60 g • water 100 g • buffalo milk 100 g Combine the three ingredients in a saucepan and cook over medium heat to form a gel. Allow to stand for at least one night. BUFFALO MILK BUNS • buffalo milk 120 g • yeast 9 g • flour 00 320 g • salt 7 g • sugar 35 g • whole eggs 1 • egg yolk 1 • isigny butter 42 g After mixing the flour with the previously prepared gel and the buffalo milk, pour the mix and all the other ingredients into a mixer. Knead until a smooth, uniform dough is obtained. Let the dough rise for at least 3 hours. Punch the dough and form buns weighing 140 g each, then set them aside to rise again for another 2 hours. Bake at 200°C for 12 minutes. 51

TUNA BURGERS • lean tuna 80 g • tuna, fatty part (belly) 60 g • salt to taste • extra virgin olive oil to taste Chop the fatty part of the tuna very finely. Cut the lean part into 2 mm cubes. Combine everything in a bowl and season with salt and extra virgin olive oil. With the help of a 7 cm dough cutter form the 140 g burger. Scald on a nonstick frying pan for 6 seconds per side and place the cheddar on it before placing it on the bed of tomato and salad. DIJON MAYONNAISE • dijon mustard 25 g • egg 1 • apple vinegar 20 g • water 20 g • seed oil 200 g • salt to taste Place the egg, vinegar, and water in a narrow, tall container and, with the help of an immersion mixer, emulsify all the ingredients. Drip in the seed oil. When a stable emulsion is achieved, incorporate the mustard and salt. Add Maldon salt for crunchiness. ONIONS IN VINEGAR • red onion (Tropea) 1 • water 100 ml • white wine 10 ml • sugar 50 g • vinegar 15 ml Combine water, vinegar, white wine, and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. While the marinade heats to boiling, cut the onion and blanch it for 10 seconds, repeating this procedure three times. Cool in water and ice before serving. More information • The Tang Zhong method is a baking technique from the Far East used to make soft, fluffy bread. It is a predough with a gelatinous consistency characterized by a very high level of hydration, composed of a mixture of flour and water. • The bread used for hamburger are buns, whose characteristic is to be soft. • Mirin is one of the fundamental ingredients of Japanese cuisine and is one of the most-used condiments in Asian dishes. It’s an alcoholic liquid (about 14°C) obtained from the fermentation of a particular type of rice, glutinous rice or sweet rice, very popular throughout Asia. MARINATED CUCUMBERS • fresh cucumber 1 • mirin 10 ml • soy 5 ml • rice vinegar 2 ml • salt to taste Peel and finely cut the cucumbers to 4 mm in a bowl and let them rest for 10 minutes sprinkled with salt. Rinse them under running water until they lose most of their vegetative water. Season with mirin, rice vinegar, and soy. 52 RECIPES


BABBI know-how linked to technological product innovation. In fact, these are gelato bases developed with the only use of polyols as sugars’ substitutes, specifically maltitol: complete and without aromas, the structural yield of both bases is guaranteed by an emulsifying-stabilizing core suitable for the hot and the cold process, supported by a mix of vegetable fibers and flours; Base Latte B-Free is also enriched with powdered cream. Golosa Peanut Butter B-Free is a soft and velvety sauce that not only hides a unique and intense taste, but also presents a refined and innovative formulation: the use of cocoa butter and peanuts as the first and only characterizing ingredient gives to this Golosa a dense and full-bodied structure. The new Babbi B-Free family is also enriched by two complete products that are the result of the company’s desire to innovate two historic lines of complete powder ingredients, such as Lattelatte and Fruttafrutta. We are talking about an “evergreen” taste like the Lattelatte Yogurt B-Free and a more refined proposal like the Fruttafrutta Matcha B-Free: the last contains the precious Matcha tea which gives the sorbet all the taste of this finest raw material, with no added aromas or vegetable fats; Lattelatte Yogurt B-Free allows the creation of a yogurt gelato in a quick and easy way, with the only addition of milk. For information: babbi.com - info@babbi.it The development of the new line of Babbi B-Free products comes from the company’s desire to grasp and analyze every signal coming from the market. The goal is to offer solutions that meet the consumer’s dietary habits and their requests, constantly evolving both for health and cultural needs. Babbi B-Free communicates a clear concept: “free” as “without”, something less but with an added value. This new range includes indeed all the new Babbi ingredients marked by the nutritional claim of no added sugars. The Latte B-Free and Frutta B-Free bases contain all the company’s Free to B-free 56

BABBI Pistachio: the art of selection For Babbi, pistachios are a family passion, a passion that mirrors since 1952 into the careful selection of the raw materials and into the continuous and meticulous search for quality. It is that same passion that lives on thanks to the family’s fourth generation currently working in the company. Only the best pistachios that are worthy of becoming Babbi Pistachios are chosen. The most advanced technologies are used to process ingredients, always under the guidance of expert hands that know how to pick, toast, process and work such a prized ingredient and realize each time unique masterpieces. The whole line of Babbi Pistachio products is made under these ideal conditions: pure Pastes, elegant Creams, high-quality Granules, exclusive Wafers with pistachio cream. The Pistachio Pastes are different from one another according to their specific blend of pistachios, various toasting conditions, and the type of processing. The experience in processing nuts has led the company to select the best Pistacchio Verde di Bronte DOP (PDO-certified Green Pistachios from Bronte) and to adorn its products with the Babbi-quality guarantee. This is how these expertly crafted ingredients become every day amazing creations in the most prestigious gelato and pastry shops, as well as in the kitchens of many gourmet haute-cuisine restaurants. For information: babbi.com - info@babbi.it 58

60 Trittico Executive Evo: your lab in less than 1 sqm BRAVO Bravo - since 1967 a leader industry in the production of machines for artisan gelato, pastry and chocolate - has grounded his philosophy on successful products, such as Trittico, the first multifunctional machine for the dessert business, with more than 6 generations of continuity and progress since 1974. Trittico is an advanced technology that works with a very simple mechanism and it is of easy interaction with the professional, who, with only one machine and in less than one square meter, can make gelato, sorbets, different pastry creams, whipped products, jams, marmalades, jellies, chocolate and creams, pâte à choux, filling and salted sauces. Trittico is more than just a versatile technology, it’s a customizable tool, so that each professional can configure it, according to his needs! Focus on... Trittico Executive Evo is the ultimate m u l t i - f u n c t i o n machine that represents the bond between artisan tradition and the highest technology. Trittico Executive Evo summarizes the art of artisan gelato and the finest art of pastry, savoury food and chocolate tempering. Trittico Executive Evo is equipped with electronic brain that automatically arranges multiple preset and customizable programs guaranteeing maximum flexibility adapting to the specific necessities of each artisan chef. It is an essential assistant: precise, reliable, constant and tireless! Its features include Patented Ionic System® Control with speed variator to detect the right percentage of frozen water in the mixture in order to obtain the proper gelato/sorbet consistency and volume. It also has a double inverter for upper tank stirrer and batch-freezer mixer with multiple speeds. Among its advantages there is the possibility to work with the Ionic System®: speed variator controlled by a software that ensures maximum overrun for gelato/sorbet and the accurate speed mixing for pastry products. It also offers the possibility to work by setting the time and to work by setting the extraction temperature. Multiple gelato, pastry and chocolate recipes are available.