CONTENTS Editorial 7 Contributors 9 A big dream 10 Marta 14 “Pan di Stracci” from Prato 18 The rediscovery of Rhubarb 22 Chocolate, anise and tamarind 28 History and secrets 32 An idea for a Pandoro 38 Is it really French? 42 Leccese coffee and… 46 Smoked Tiramisu 52 The simplicity of “Panigacci” 56 Pastry collection 62 In partnership with 94 Year 12 - No. 36 OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2023
EDITORIAL Uncertainties and prospects! The trade fair season for the food industry has started again, especially for the artisanal pastry world. The Host tradeshow in Milan has just concluded, which had over 180.000 visitors from 166 different countries. It was a successful edition, filled with multiple events and where good deals were made. Unfortunately, the dramatic situations that are occurring in different geographical areas throughout the world, with ferocious wars that have not been seen in a long time, make everything very uncertain. It is difficult to plan anything, not even in the mid-term. The foodservice industry, strongly connected to tourism, saw a strong recovery this past year, almost returning to pre-Covid levels. Italy recorded a significant increase in foreign visitors, which offset a decline in domestic tourist flows. This decline is strongly influenced by the considerable increase in costs of all services, from transportation to hotels, to out-of-home food consumption costs. We will continue with our work, dedicated to publicizing the Made in Italy artisanal pastry world. We will be present at various international shows with our publications: at FHC in Shanghai, at MIG in Longarone, at Sigep in Rimini, at Gelatissimo in Stuttgart, to end at Expo Sweet in Warsaw. We hope that at the end of our “tour”, in the meantime, the world will have less conflicts. Happy viewing and reading to all! For everything else, we will see you as usual during the international tradeshows, or online at www.puntoitaly.org. Franco Cesare Puglisi 7
CONTRIBUTORS SWEETMOOD-puntoITALY Milan - Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Three-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 12 - No. 36 October - December 2023 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Monica Viani Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca Patrick Hopkins Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv - Milan, Italy Editrade - Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - Milan, Italy Tel. +39 02 70004960 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Pentagraf - Bernate Ticino (Milan, I) All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. Alessandro Berlanda Sous chef and pastry chef Felice Venanzi Pastry chef Marta Boccanera Pastry chef Denis Dianin Pastry chef Arcangelo Audino Pastry chef Monica Viani Reporter 9
ABIGDREAM Companions in life and at work, Marta Boccanera and Felice Venanzi are two young pastry chefs that have revolutionized the pastry arts in Rome with their shop, Grué. Pasticceria Grué is the realization of Marta Boccanera and Felice Venanzi’s dream, two young adults who have fuelled their love by sharing a passion for the pastry arts. Their sweet story should be told again and again because it demonstrates that you should not be afraid to change your path to realize your dreams. Marta and Felice know this all too well. These two pastry chefs and entrepreneurs that, unsatisfied with their educational careers, decided to bet on their passion for the sweet arts. Felice paused his degree in political science and international relations, and Marta put her studies in mechanical engineering on hold just shy of obtaining her degree. A future of love and passion awaits them. More than a few difficulties Marta and Felice do not love compromises; they want to be happy. They believe that the pastry arts are the right By Monica Viani Photos by Alberto Blasetti 11
Specifically, they decided to declare war on the customary use of margarine, which is utilized to save money and for the ease of processing in the laboratory. Margarines, in fact, have a higher melting point than butter, that requires more technical processing and has higher costs. In addition, Marta and Felice choose to use only single-origin chocolates. Signature sweets The Grué pastry shop is a bright space with large windows and high ceilings. Sofas and armchairs around the tables are arranged after a long counter, which runs throughout the establishment, full of mignon pastries, single choice to build a future together. Their previous studies from before starting this new journey give them the strength and the open-mindedness to undertake the courses with Cast Alimenti and to do internships with the most important production kitchens in Italy. Pastry arts require discipline, scientific knowledge, technique and precision. It is what they are looking for; it is what they want. They are confident, aware of the difficulties and the hardships they will have to face. They know they are starting a job where they will be judged every day. Pastry arts are one of the most meritocratic and concrete activities that you can choose. Despite all these difficulties, they decided to open their shop and production laboratory in Rome, a city where there seems to be little space for modern pastry. A city in which, when Grué opened its doors, the beauty of a dessert was considered a bad thing: if it is beautiful, it certainly cannot be good! Haute pâtisserie in Rome In 2014, they opened their pastry shop in Viale Regina Margherita 95 in Rome with a sign that attracted curiosity and the attention of clients. Grué is written as it should be pronounced. Few know its meaning, as it refers to toasted and crushed cocoa nibs. Those who cross the threshold are curious and are driven to ask. Their goal is to create a cutting-edge production kitchen that does not involve the use of semi-finished products, but rather high-quality ingredients starting with the use of butter. 12
portions, leavened goods, gelato, chocolate desserts and savoury proposals. At first glance, you can sense the difficult, but successful, choice to respect tradition while using the most modern technologies and choosing the best raw materials. They bet on this while having to fight different prejudices and having to accustom palates to a new culinary experience. They introduced customers to confectionery processing with mother yeasts; for example, the gianduja panettone, the Gianduioso, produced all year round and awarded as the best chocolate panettone in 2018 and the best panettone in Rome in 2019, is very loved. They believe that panettone is a product to be offered all year round and they do it successfully. For 2023, they propose a panettone with lightly salted caramel drops and candied annurche apples. One of their signature items is the elegant Torta Grué made with thin chocolate sponge cake, pralines, Madagascar vanilla Chantilly and Caraibe 66% dark chocolate mousse. Without excess The pastry shop is elegant, beautiful, good, and designed to give value to the territory. Their offering meets the needs of the customer; their attention to the lightness of the sweets, the adoption of highly technological tools, and the choice of high-quality products with a careful selection of suppliers are not surprising. With their sweets, Marta and Felice give the desire for pleasure to customers who are increasingly attentive to what they eat, but who do not want to give up enjoyment. With pastries, you cannot give up sweetness, but you can balance the recipes, reducing the fat and sugar content. In short, Pasticceria Grué is love. To confirm all this, during the “Dolce Amore” Wedding Pastry Festival, held in Naples in Piazza del Plebi- scito, Felice asked Marta to marry him in front of everyone. 13
A refined single portion dessert that plays with elegant consistencies and combinations, while remaining balanced and flavourful. MARTA By Marta Boccanera and Felice Venanzi Photo by Alberto Blasetti 14 RECIPES
Ingredients for 15 single-portion desserts COMPOSITION • Thin chocolate sponge cake • Guanaja 70% dark chocolate mousse • Brittle for the base • Mandarin orange and pineapple gelatine • Mascarpone cream • Mirror glaze THIN CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE • egg yolks 300 g • sugar 150 g • acacia honey 50 g • egg whites 375 g • sugar 180 g • flour 70 g • starch 50 g • cocoa powder 70 g • Caribe 66% dark chocolate 180 g • warm cream 160 g Whip egg yolks with sugar and honey. Sift flour, starch and cocoa powder together, then heat the cream to 60°C. Pour the cream onto the previously melted chocolate that is at 45°C and mix until a ganache is obtained. When the egg yolks are ready, start to whip the egg whites with sugar. Lighten the ganache by adding part of the whipped egg whites to it, then add the rest of them to egg yolks. Add the dry ingredients to the yolk mixture, then the lightened ganache. With the help of an adjustable pastry scraper, spread the mixture onto a silpat silicon mat and bake for 7-8 min at 220°-230°C with the valve closed. 15
GUANAJA 70% DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE • whole eggs 55 g • egg yolks 65 g • dextrose 13 g • sugar 65 g • water 22 g • whipped cream 275 g • Guanaja 70% dark chocolate 270 g • coeur de Guanaja 50 g • milk 200 g • animal-origin gelatine 3 g Cook the sugar and water until the mixture reaches 121°C. Make a syrup with the eggs, yolks and dextrose. Whip. In the meantime, prepare a ganache with boiling milk, coeur de Guanaja and the Guanaja chocolate. Keep the ganache mixture at 45°C. When the pâte à bombe reaches 30°C, add the gelatine and mix with a spatula. Then, with the ganache at 45°C, lighten it with this mixture. Lastly, add the soft and shiny whipped cream. Use immediately. BRITTLE FOR THE BASE • grape seed oil 15 g • Caribe 66% dark couverture chocolate 100 g • hazelnut paste 150 g • 50-50 hazelnut praliné 100 g • pailletté crunch 320 g Melt the couverture to 45°C, add the flavour pastes and the grape seed oil. Mix with immersion blender. Add the crunchy pailletté and use immediately. MANDARINORANGEANDPINEAPPLEGELATINE • pineapple pulp 120 g • mandarin orange juice 100 g • sugar 50 g • dextrose 25 g • animal-origin gelatine 5 g Mix the pulp and juice together and heat to 35°C. Mix the sugars together, then add them to the juice mixture. Whisk and heat to 40°C. Mix until the sugars are completely dissolved, then add the melted gelatine. Use immediately by pouring into the dedicated silicon mould then freeze. MASCARPONE CREAM • mascarpone 225 g • liquid cream with 35% fat content 50 g • egg yolks 100 g • dextrose 25 g • sugar 100 g • water 35 g • animal-origin gelatine 5 g • espresso coffee 20 g • whipped cream 125 g Cook the sugar and water until the mixture reaches 121°C. Slowly pour mixture onto the egg yolks and dextrose (that were previously heated to 30°C), making a syrup. Whip in a stand mixer equipped with the whisk attachment. In the meantime, soften the mascarpone with liquid cream. When the whipped mixture reaches 30°C, stop the mixer and add the coffee together with the melted gelatine. Add the whipped mixture (yolks and sugars) to the softened mascarpone, then add the whipped cream. Use immediately. 16 RECIPES
MIRROR GLAZE • water 50 g • sugar 450 g • fresh cream with 35% fat content 400 g • animal-origin gelatine 30 g • cocoa powder 135 g • neutral gelatine 500 g • condensed milk 100 g Boil water with the neutral gelatine. Add sugar and bring to a boil. Add cream then bring to a boil. Add cocoa powder then bring to a boil. Cool to 40°C. Add the rehydrated gelatine and the condensed milk. Mix well. Let rest in refrigerator for 12-24 hours. Use at 30°- 34°C. ASSEMBLY In a 30×30 cm mould, prepare the centre of each single-portion dessert. Insert a disk of the chocolate sponge cake into the mould. Then pour the brittle on top and level well with a spatula. Pour on the light mascarpone cream. Blast freeze until the structure of the light cream reaches a thicker consistency. Pour the last layer of mandarin gelatine. Blast freeze again. Take out of the mould and cut into 4×4 cm squares. Store the centres in the freezer and start to prepare the dark chocolate mousse. When the mousse is ready, pour it into a mould with a 6 cmdiameter, filling it three-fourths of the way, then insert the centre. Blast freeze again, then remove from mould. Glaze and decorate. 17
photo by Leonardo Cai “PAN DI STRACCI” FROM PRATO 18 A NEW DESSERT
As the concept of a circular economy continues to spread, Leonardo Cai along with pastry chef Massimo Peruzzi present a recipe inspired by the art of recycling, an art that has made Prato (Tuscany, Italy) famous throughout the world. The production of regenerated fabrics has become part of the economic and cultural identity of Prato. Leonardo Cai, a student of the Industrial Design course of DIDA – the Design School of the University of Florence, reminds us that this Tuscan city is the capital of textiles. It is he who “designed” the new dessert for his thesis, in collaboration with Maestro of the Flour Arts, Massimo Peruzzi, a pastry chef from Prato and finalist of the Panettone World Cup 2019. Textile - and pastry - arts The “Pan di Stracci”, translated literally as “bread made of rags”, is a baked dessert dedicated to the textile district and to the city of Prato, not only with its dough but also with its packaging. For his design, Leonardo Cai was inspired by Furoshiki, an ancient Japanese tradition that consists in transporting objects with fabrics instead of bags. These fabrics are masterfully folded to obtain a bag. The “Pan di Stracci”, which refers to the work of ragpickers, reuses the leftovers of brioche dough from Italian croissants. The rectangles and triangles of dough, intertwined into a fan-shape, are assembled to create a circle. The trimmings are then rolled up and arranged into a cake tin. Left to rise overnight at a controlled temperature, the balls of dough are then baked in the oven. The cake has an irregular form reminiscent of the “mountains” of rags, or the high piles of fabrics sorted by colour that are then chosen by expert ragpickers. Just like with fabrics, the “Pan di Stracci” can play with colours. For the “Cammellitto” version, filled with an almond cream, the brown colour is obtained with cocoa powder. For the “Verzino” version, filled with pistachio and white chocolate cream, matcha tea powder is used to replicate the green colour. Similarly, for the “Mezzochiaro” version, filled with Chantilly cream, the yellow colour is obtained from turmeric and coconut paste. For the “Rossino” version, filled with fig jam, the red colour is obtained from strawberry paste. 19
Italian croissant and Pan di Stracci Ingredients • flour W320-350 P/L 0,55 2000 g • sugar 300 g • butter 350 g • eggs 1000 g • salt 20 g • Tahitian vanilla bean 1 • orange zest 2 • cake yeast 80 g For the laminated dough butter 1000 g In a twin-arm mixer at 60 beats/minute, add the flour and eggs (less than 20 percent) and knead for a few minutes. Add salt, sugar, flavourings and butter, and knead until the dough no longer sticks to the sides of the machine. Then add the yeast with the rest of the eggs and mix until a smooth, elastic and uniform dough is obtained. Divide the dough into two parts and place them in boxes covered with cellophane. Place the boxes in a freezer set at -12°C/-15°C and leave overnight. The next morning, when the dough is soft enough, add 500 grams of butter that has been kneaded to make it workable to each dough. Fold 3 times to make the laminated dough, then 2 times, then a third time after 30 minutes of rest in the refrigerator. When the dough is hard enough, roll it out to a 4 mm thickness and cut out triangles that are 50 g each. Roll up the triangles to create wellshaped croissants that are not too thick. Place them 4x3 on a 60x40 cm baking sheet and let rise at room temperature for 10-12 hours. Once ready to be placed in the oven, brush them with an egg wash, or spray the egg wash so they brown uniformly and faster. Bake at 195°C for 12 minutes. When the product is still warm, it can be glazed with a water-based orange glaze. Recipe 20 A NEW DESSERT
Packaging A further surprise is the packaging, that is available in two versions: a cardboardone(whichcan be recycledafter use) and another one made with regenerated jeans (limited edition), designed to unfold entirely, becoming a sort of tablecloth. Pan di Stracci When making croissants, many leftovers are produced, which are usually mixed up again. These leftovers usually consist of a strip that is as long as the rolled-out dough and can be between ten and twenty millimetres wide, and of many unused triangles because they are too small to be used to make a croissant. By hand, cut up the leftovers, creating rectangles (roughly 10x1 cm) and triangles (roughly 10x2 cm). Place the trimmings in a fan-shape creating a circle, then fold them in on themselves to create a ball (roughly 10 trimmings for each ball), intertwining the various “rags” irregularly. Once the balls are made, place them in a tapered cake pan with a 20 cm diameter (based on the version), with seven balls for each Pan di Stracci. Let rise at room temperature for 10-12 hours. When ready to be baked, brush or spray with egg wash. Bake at 180°C for 30 minutes. Once cool, the dessert can be filled. 21
Kaori Nohara on Unsplash THE REDISCOVERY OF RHUBARB 22 INGREDIENTS
A forgotten plant with a bitter flavour, it is being rediscovered thanks to its nutritional properties and because there are many ways to use it in various recipes, especially sweet ones. For some years, rhubarb, a vegetable native to China with more than sixty known varieties, has become the undisputed protagonist of several sweet and savoury recipes. The plant is brightly coloured and ranges from red to green to bright pink. It is chosen more and more not only to make jams to fill cakes and pies, but also to produce granitas, sorbets and creams suitable for garnishing milk-based gelato. In the pastry and gelato arts, the renewed interest in this plant that seemed to be forgotten is due to its ability to create a sharp contrast between a sour and a sweet taste. Rhubarb has charmed not only the world of desserts, but also the culinary one as cuisines increasingly seek for ingredients capable of giving hints of acidity to savoury dishes. Some chefs use it instead of lemon or vinegar. Even mixology has rediscovered it to make refreshing and easy-to-drink cocktails. 23
julienmerceron on pixabay Its properties To understand the versatility and use of rhubarb in many recipes, one must first understand its properties. The plant is composed of water and fibre, substances that make it light and suitable for solving intestinal problems and for purifying toxins. Rhubarb has few carbohydrates, proteins and sugars, but many vitamins and minerals. Ancient history Rhubarb is a plant with ancient origins. Its story begins 5000 years ago as a medicinal plant. In fact, ancient documents attest that it was celebrated for its healing qualities by the Chinese emperor Shen Nung. Later, it was used as a drug in ancient Greece. For use of rhubarb in the kitchen, we have to wait until Marco Polo made it known throughout Europe. The vegetable has had a mixed destiny over the centuries, being most successful in northern European counHeather Barnes on Unsplash 24 INGREDIENTS
tries, England and the USA. Since it is a late spring vegetable, in Nordic cuisine, it has traditionally been paired with strawberries. Strong yet delicate flavour The stalks and roots of rhubarb are used, taking care to remove the leaves. Due to its flavour similar to that of celery, it is used to make appetizers, first courses, main courses and desserts. Thanks to its characteristic intense red colour with shades of pink and green, the plant is also used to give a distinctive touch to dishes. Its flavour is acidic and bitter, with a strong but at the same time delicate taste. Those who know the plant, have learned that the redder it is, the sweeter it is. Rhubarb can be baked, pan-fried or boiled. It goes perfectly with red fruits and strawberries, but due to its palate-cleansing power, it pairs well with fish, especially salmon. At the same time, it is perfect for making an accompanying sauce for meat, in particular duck breast. Another successful combination is with cheeses, from ricotta to aged ones. Exquisite jam Rhubarb jam is excellent for filling pies, to be spread on a slice of bread or when paired with cheeses. The most wellknown flavour combinations are with apples, strawberries, raspberries, oranges or lemons. In particular, apples sweeten rhubarb’s flavour, as well as giving it the right density. Adding some almonds will make it crunchy. In England, it is easy to find it paired with ginger. Virginia Long on Unsplash 25
“Famelico”, the cocktail Ettore Diana, recognized throughout the world of mixology as one of the most eclectic Italian bartenders, a book author and a winner of several Guinness World Records, is known to the public for having created, in support of charity initiatives, the largest cocktail, coffee, tea, cappuccino, herbal tea and mojito in the world. For the readers of SweetMood, Ettore Diana, at Central Bar 80 in Santa Teresa Gallura, has created “Famelico”, a cocktail starring rhubarb. It is a fruity drink, especially perfect for happy hour. It is enjoyable and it pairs well with the usual appetizers. • rhubarb 4,5 cl • gin flavoured with Mandarin oranges from Procida 2,5 cl • peach liquor 2,5 cl To decorate, you can use some mint leaves, and a slice of lime, strawberry and peach. Recipe by Ettore Diana 26 INGREDIENTS
As a digestif You can prepare a homemade rhubarb liquor and offer it as an after-dinner drink, or digestif. In recent times, some serve a rhubarb kombucha, which is a fermented version of rhubarb. • rhubarb 25 g • cane sugar 150 g • water 250 ml • pure alcohol at 95° 200 ml Wash the rhubarb. Dry and cut it into cubes. Place it in an airtight jar together with the alcohol and leave to infuse for about ten days. After the infusion time, prepare a simple syrup with sugar and water and add it to the liqueur. Let it rest for about 24 hours, then strain and bottle. Recipe Racool studio on Freepik 27
By sous chef and pastry chef Alessandro Berlanda Photos by Loris Premoli This chocolate and anise cream, with a cocoa nib sauce, tamarind and banana gelato elegantly plays with Eastern and Western ingredients. CHOCOLATE, ANISE AND TAMARIND 28 RECIPES
Ingredients for 12 portions COMPOSITION • Chocolate and anise cream • Chocolate cookie • Chocolate mixture for spraying • Banana gelato • Tamarind • Cocoa nib sauce CHOCOLATE AND ANISE CREAM • milk 200 g • cream 200 g • sugar 40 g • egg yolks 80 g • 75% dark chocolate 160 g • anise 20 g • whipped cream 125 g Infuse milk with anise for 12 hours. Unite egg yolks with sugar. Boil milk and cream, then pour onto the egg yolks and heat to 82°C in a bain-marie. Take off the heat and pour over the chocolate. When the mixture reaches a temperature between 45 - 50°C, add the whipped cream. Pour into silicon moulds and top with a cookie disk. Blast freeze to -22°C. CHOCOLATE COOKIE • 55% dark chocolate 100 g • melted butter 50 g • eggs 2 • sugar 30 g • cornstarch 15 g Melt chocolate and butter together. Whip eggs with sugar. When the mixture is foamy, add cornstarch, then add to the chocolate and butter. Pour onto a sheet lined with baking paper that is 3 mm thick. Bake for 10 minutes at 160°C. Use cookie cutter to cut out round disks. 29
Racool studio on Freepik CHOCOLATE MIXTURE FOR SPRAYING • 55% dark chocolate 180 g • cocoa butter 120 g • drops of green anise essence 4 Heat to 50°C, then pour into spray gun for chocolate. Spray onto the frozen cream. BANANA GELATO • milk 280 g • cream 50 g • powdered milk 32 g • granulated sugar 90 g • dry glucose powder 30 DE 50 g • maltodextrin 18 DE 60 g • stabilizer 3 g • banana 400 g Heat base (milk, sugars, cream) to 80°C. Bake the bananas with their peel in the oven for 40 minutes at 85°C. Then blend with the still-warm base. The mixture needs to have 31 degrees brix. If it is higher than that, add water until the desired degree is obtained. TAMARIND • tamarind flavour paste as needed • water as needed Cook the tamarind flavour paste with water on a low flame until the desired consistency is obtained. Then, push mixture through a sieve. Store in the refrigerator. COCOA NIB SAUCE • soy milk 120 g • cocoa nibs 20 g • white chocolate 70 g • tamarind flavour paste 40 g • white vinegar 10 g Heat milk then infuse with cocoa nibs for 20 minutes. Blend, then filter with a fine-mesh sieve. The mixture should reach 50°C. If the temperature is lower than 50°C, heat in microwave. Lastly, add chocolate, tamarind and vinegar while continuing to mix. Then, add the tamarind flavour paste. Store in the refrigerator. Jcomp on Freepik 30 RECIPES
Italian pastry arts meet China Mu DimSum, a gourmet restaurant in Milan inspired by China has two souls. One reflects traditions and reveals itself through dim sum and iconic dishes that are an expression of authentic Cantonese cuisine. The other is contemporary, the result of the encounter between raw ingredients, modern techniques and new flavours born from the blending of Asian and Italian cultures. The pastry chef Alessandro Berlanda introduced desserts into the restaurant’s menu, a tradition that is not common in Chinese cuisine. To preserve an Eastern flair, he uses Asian spices and fruits that are traditionally employed for savoury offerings. He skilfully mixes Italian, French and German traditions with Asian ingredients. Evening tao on Freepik ASSEMBLY AND DECORATION On the single portion of cream with the chocolate cookie that has been sprayed with chocolate, place a quenelle of banana gelato with the cocoa nib sauce, and decorate with a wafer. 31
HISTORY AND SECRETS Photo by pastry chef Denis Dianin 32 TRADITIONS
In Italy, Pandoro has always competed with Panettone to be the most beloved dessert for the Christmas holidays. Panettone remains the best-selling leavened dessert, but Pandoro is gaining ground. Pandoro was born October 14, 1884, when Domenico Melegatti, owner of a grocery store in centre of Verona, obtained the certificate of industrial property rights (the patent of the time) from the Ministry of Agriculture and Commerce of the Kingdom of Italy, for the creation of a new dessert that perfected a recipe made for centuries in Veronese homes with various versions. In addition to the recipe, Domenico Melegatti also filed a patent for the shape, the traditional 8-point star, designed by an impressionist painter, Angelo Dall’Oca Bianca, distinguished for having participated several times at the Venice Biennale and for having earned awards at the Parisian Universal Exhibition. Melegatti, besides being a skilled pastry chef, turned out to be an excellent entrepreneur; for the sales launch of the dessert, he organized a competition with an award of a thousand Italian lire. This amount would have been won by the person who succeeded in making the perfect dessert at home. Domenico knew that no one would be able to succeed, but in the meantime, the idea decreed the success of the Pandoro and allowed him to become a small industrialist. 33
The meaning of its name Legend has it that when an apprentice from the Melegatti grocery store saw the colour of the new dessert’s dough, he yelled out in amazement: “L’è proprio un pan de oro!” (Italian for, “It is really a golden bread!”). Reality or fantasy, it is very likely that the name of the Veronese Christmas cake comes from the yellow colour of the leavened dough. A less-accredited theory refers to the “pan de oro” of the Serenissima, of which there is no certain evidence. It seems that in their homes during the holidays, Venetian nobles would eat a bread covered in goldleaf. According to some scholars, the Pandoro’s classic 8-point shape recalls various pagan rites; for others, it is the exact opposite, as it recalls the guiding star for the Three Wise Men. Glauco on Adobe Stock 34 TRADITIONS
Ancient origins Historians descend Pandoro from an ancient Veronese dessert probably from the 1700s, the “Nadalin”, a leavened cake covered with a mixture of pine nuts worked with sugar - “la pignocada” - and topped with chopped almonds. There are traces found in ancient documents from festivity guilds or “scalettéri”, guilds of confectionary producers that would prepare a sweet bread covered in pine nuts and sugar. They competed with “i pistori”, or bread bakers, who were only allowed to add sugar to their leavened products. “Nadalin” is considered the ancestor of pandoro also for its characteristic shape in an eight-pointed star. The process was very different though, as the points were made by hand before leavening. For these reasons, Brugnoli, a historian, prefers to consider the Veronese “Christmas bread” the true ancestor of Pandoro. By studying the expenditure records dated in 1700s from the Del Bene household, in addition to Nadalin, Brugnoli found other purchases of some “Pan di Natale”, or Christmas bread, made in the St. Joseph’s female monastery in Fidenzio (near Verona). The recipe, which was then modified during the 1800s due to the influence of Viennese sweets which had an important leavening process, had some similarities with Pandoro’s recipe. anna q. on Adobe Stock 35
The kneading time must allow for the yeast to be oxygenated without being excessive, to avoid overheating. The obtained dough is then wrapped up and covered in a clean and durable loose-knit cloth towel, to allow the yeast to breathe. Then, it is tied up with twine and placed at room temperature for two hours until it begins to pull due to reproducing yeasts that are starting to ferment. At this point, it is placed in the refrigerator until the next feeding. With the in-water storage method, after feedings, the yeast needs to be wrapped up in a clean Natural yeast, how With natural yeast, or a sourdough starter, two methods can be used: in-water or bound. Each technique has pros and cons. Both methods are effective and allow the yeast to be stored for a few days with daily feedings at a temperature between 15°C and 18°C. For a long storage period, it is necessary to store the yeast in the refrigerator at 4°C, and feedings should occur once a week. The bound method is the most common and consists of kneading the yeast with flour and water (at about a 45 percent hydration). cloth and placed in a tall and narrow container, then covered with water at 20°C, and if necessary, sugar should be added. The bowl should be left at room temperature then fed the next day, or it should be stored in the refrigerator then fed after a week. When the yeast floats, it should be left at room temperature at 18°C for about 12-24 hours. For a longer storage time, the water and flour amounts should be increased two/four times. Once kneaded, the yeast is placed in water at 20°C. When it floats, it should be stored in the refrigerator to slow the fermentation process. Which method to prefer The differences are few, and they are mostly due to practical reasons. Starting and taking care of a mother yeast or sourdough starter is not easy. It takes patient and knowledge. Bound yeast maintains more consistency and a more constant fermentation, even if it can result more sour and less flavourful when compared to the in-water method, which can have a sweet after-taste similar to honey, a lighter colour and a more refined flavour. Water performs a dual function towards the yeast: it lowers the acidity by bringing oxygen, and it provides isolation from the external environment by forming a skin. Water also favours saccharification of the starch, with a greater production of sugars that nourish the saccharomyces, giving more flavour and sweetness to the yeast. This explains why even bound yeasts need to the bathed inwater before their daily feedings. ricka_kinamoto on Adobe Stock 36 TRADITIONS
Nuvola, a reinterpreted pandoro Two engineers, a marketing specialist and a shared dream to get off the beaten path to follow one’s instincts and to create something exceptional together: these are the ingredients that created Infermentum, a young but already solid company of artisanal sweets from Verona. Francesco Borioli, Luca Dal Corso, Elisa Dalle Pezze (together with Daniele Massella, who left the company in 2021 to follow other projects), grew up together between the Stallavena hills. They were not born pastry chefs, but on the brink of turning 35, they decided to make a change in their professional lives, rolling up their sleeves and literally getting their hands dirty kneading dough. One of their successes is the Monte Nuvola (which translated sounds like “mountain cloud”), a panettone-shaped pandoro, with a dough that is as airy as a cloud. It is named after the mountain the three friends used to play on as kids. Among its ingredients, in Nuvola you can find 00 soft wheat flour, butter, sugar, pasteurized whole eggs, fresh cream, natural yeast, white chocolate, Marsala wine, acacia honey and bourbon vanilla from Madagascar. 37
This Christmas dessert is airy, and it is perfectly balanced between its strength and sweetness. It is to be enjoyed warm so you can taste all its nuances of flavour. AN IDEA FOR A PANDORO By pastry chef Denis Dianin Photos by pastry chef Denis Dianin Star illustration by sdecoret on Adobe Stock 38 RECIPES
STARTER DOUGH • zeta flour 662 g • compressed yeast 132 g • water 552 g • granulated sugar 88 g Knead together all the ingredients in a stand mixer equipped with a hook. Knead until the dough is firm and does not break when you stretch it. Leave dough to triple in volume while stored at 26°C (roughly 30 minutes). In the meantime, prepare the emulsion. EMULSION • block of butter 1.656 g • powdered sugar 662 g • cocoa butter 166 g • egg yolks 552 g • Bourbon vanilla 1 g • vanilla extract 144 g • orange essential oil 7 g • Marsala wine 75 g Work together soft butter with the sugar and all the flavourings. Slowly pour in the Marsala wine and egg yolks while continuing to mix. Lastly, add the cocoa butter in small pieces. Cover and store until use. 39
SECOND DOUGH • zeta flour 795 g • granulated sugar 331 g • block of butter 132 g • water 199 g Knead the first dough together with all the ingredients of the second one. Knead until the dough is firm and does not break when you stretch it. Leave dough to triple in volume while stored at 26°C (roughly 1 hour). THIRD DOUGH • zeta flour 1.325 g • granulated sugar 397 g • block of butter 199 g • egg yolks 410 g • water 430 g • mother yeast 350 g Knead second dough together with flour, sugar, butter and water. When the dough is firm and does not break when you stretch it, add the egg yolks and finish kneading. Leave dough to triple in volume while stored at 26°C (roughly 2 hours). 40 RECIPES
Serving suggestions Pandoro should be en- joyed warm. Before eat- ing it, it should be placed in a bag and next to a heat source for a few hours. Thiswill allowyou to taste all the nuances of its flavour. It should be cut with a serrated knife from the top down, without squishing it to not ruin its airiness. If there is any leftover after having served it, just close it back up in its bag and leave it in the box. FOURTH DOUGH • zeta flour 2.650 g • granulated sugar 662 g • block of butter 1.767 g • salt 88 g • eggs 607 g • egg yolks 397 g • emulsion Knead third dough together with the flour, butter, egg yolks and eggs. Once the dough is firm and does not break when stretched, add the sugar and knead until it reaches the same consistency. Then add the salt. When the dough is smooth, add all the emulsion and finish the dough. Cover and let rest for 45 minutes, then cut off the desired portion, shape the dough into a ball and place in the mould. Let rise, then bake at 170°C for the time needed based on the size. Let cool in the refrigerator. Once completed cooled, turn over and remove from mould. 41
Kamran Aydinov on Freepik IS IT REALLY FRENCH? 42 INTERESTING FACTS
Valeria Aksakova on Freepik Up until today, no one ever doubted it: Chantilly cream was made for the first time by French chef Franoçois Vatel. Research from beyond the Alps will now change history. The cream was actually created by an Italian gelato chef. In Chantilly, France, in a picturesque castle, the recipe of one of the most well-known creams of the pastry arts is guarded: the Chantilly cream. The origin of its name can be misleading, as the whipped cream sweetened with powdered sugar and flavoured with vanilla was actually invented by an Italian gelato chef. Up until today, the inventor of the cream was considered to have been the French François Vatel who, in the 1600s during the era of Louis II de Bourbon, Prince of Condé, was the head of ceremonies at the Chantilly castle. Legend has it that in 1671, during a banquet organized by the prince in honour of King Louis XIV, the cook had run out of eggs due to a batch of expired eggs and was left with just a little bit of cream. It seemed impossible to create a royal dessert. Everything was lost, but the cook did not lose heart. To not let down the guests, he invented the Chantilly cream. The dinner ended with a dessert that was enjoyed by everyone. Today, Nicole Garnier, honorary curator of the Chantilly castle’s legacy and author of the volume “Vatel: The Splendours of the Table Under Louis XIV”, claims that in reality Vatel was not the cook, but rather he was only the master of ceremonies. He was considered the inventor of the cream only to make his legend more tragic, since it recounts his suicide. In fact, he took his own life by stabbing himself with a sword due to delivery of seafood that never arrived but was necessary to set a sumptuous banquet. Furthermore, Chantilly cream obtained its name which made it famous throughout the world fifty years after the death of this French Master of ceremonies. This circumstance seems to support the theory that his legend was in part constructed. 43
When to use Chantilly cream It is used in the pastry arts to decorate cakes, sponge cakes, mille-feuille, Chantilly cake or to fill beignets and profiteroles. It is also useful in preparing some cream desserts made with fruit or chocolate, or to decorate gelato or hot chocolate. It is also used to make Diplomat cream, which is nothing other than pastry cream mixed with Chantilly cream. Dani on Unsplash The true story Whipped cream, known as “neve di latte” or “snow cream”, was known in Italy already during the Middle Ages. During this time period, dairy products, with the exception of cheeses, were considered food for the poor and were eaten only by farmers. Only in the 1500s, when cream was sweetened with sugar and flavoured with aromas did dairy products begin to be valued. Nobles and aristocrats, tasting the dishes served at Caterina De’ Medici’s court, started to appreciate its use. The trend of using of cream started in Italy and then spread throughout Europe. Even though its origins are Italian, the first recipe where the cream is used was published in a book in England in 1545, whereas the first recipe similar to Chantilly cream, thicker and without egg whites, was published roughly two hundred years later in a French cookbook, “La Science du Maître d’Hôtel Cuisinier” by François Menon. In this book, a recipe for whipped cream called “fromage Chantilly”, is the reworking of a recipe by a Sicilian gelato chef, Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli. Procopio dei Coltelli Procopio opened a luxurious café, Le Procope, in Paris in 1686. The establishment was immediately successful, so much so that it supplied gelato to Louis Joseph de Bourbon. The Prince of Condé enjoyed his gelato in the Chantilly castle. In 1722, during future King Louis XV’s visit, Procopio prepared a gelato topped with a cream that was called Chantilly cream. The dessert was liked so much that the Chantilly cream became one of the most requested desserts in all of Europe. Its praises can be found in various testimonies from the same time period. One example is from 1784, where the Baroness of Oberkirch praised it in her memoir as a ”good, delicious and well-prepared cream”. The brotherhood was born Chantilly cream was not a fleeting trend. This is proven by the foundation of the Chantilly Cream Brotherhood. Founded in 2007 by the maestro Hervé Grébert, it gathers twenty-four professionals. Its objective is to defend the traditional recipe. The cream is made with three ingredients: whipping cream with a minimum of 30 percent fat content, powdered sugar and vanilla. It requires specific tools, including a large whisk and a round, stainless-steel bowl or cul-de-poule. The secret to perfectly making it lies in the correct whipping in three phases: adding air to the cream, adding sugar and vanilla, and thickening. To be called Chantilly cream, it can only contain these three ingredients, but at times the Knights add other ingredients such as caramel or coffee. Careful attention to whipping is recommended, since whipped cream is the state of cream before it turns into butter. It is said that the whipped cream is ready when the bowl can be turned upside down without the whipped cream collapsing. 44 INTERESTING FACTS
Ingredients for 8 portions • liquid cream at refrigerator tempera- ture with at least 30% fat content (better if 35%) 25 cl • powdered sugar 20 g • vanilla extract (or seeds from one vanilla bean that has been halved and scraped) 15-20 drops Place a stainless steel cul-de-poule bowl in the refrigerator for at least an hour or overnight. Pour the cold cream into the chilled bowl. Using a large stainless-steel whisk, delicately whip the cream for several minutes until you can see the lines made by the whisk. Add the sugar and the vanilla. Continue to whip consistently for several minutes until the cream starts to thicken. Taste the whipped cream and add more sugar and vanilla if needed and as desired. Vigorously whip the cream until it has thickened. It is whipped enough when the whisk can stand up straight in the whipped cream. Be careful not to whip it too much to avoid it turning into butter! Recipe by Hervé Grébert, founder and gran maestro, The Brotherhood of the Chantilly Knights Sorin Gheorghita on Unsplash 45
LECCESE COFFEE AND… 46 THE LEGEND
berna_namoglu on Adobe Stock A refreshing, sweet and energizing drink made with coffee, ice and almond essence that, despite being rooted in the past, is still quite successful today. Like everything that is rooted in the past, the history of Leccese coffee has an uncertain origin. Even with many suggestions, they all struggle to find historical confirmation. The most accredited story tells that Leccese coffee is a reinterpretation of a recipe that was very trendy during the 1600s in Valencia. In Spain, at that time, the Café del Tiempo, served with a slice of lemon or orange, was very popular. Others prefer to refer to documents attesting that in the early 1800s, the custom of sipping a hot coffee served with a green lemon peel or mint and ice had spread in many countries. This was a short-lived proposal, but it was revisited with some variations, proposing that it spread throughout Europe in 47
the mid-1900s. Whatever the ancestor of Salento coffee, its success is due to Antonio Quarta, the owner of the Avio Bar in Lecce, who sold ice in thick flakes when refrigerators and freezers did not yet exist. To avoid throw away the leftover ice, he decided to put it in the coffee. To sweeten the drink, he added almond essence, smoothing out its strong taste. The result was a creamy, refreshing, energizing coffee rich in flavours and aromas. • espresso coffee 1 • almond essence 50 ml • large ice cubs as desired Place a few ice cubes in a glass and add the almond essence. Prepare an espresso coffee and pour on top of the ice while still hot. Tradition has it that the drinker should pour the coffee with almond essence into the glass of ice. Calories On average, one cup of this drink has between 40 and 60 calories, based on how sugary the almond essence is. Recipe berna_namoglu on Adobe Stock Pairings Leccese coffee can be paired with the pastry that is the symbol of Salento, the sweet pasticciotto: a small treasure chest of shortcrust dough that encases pastry custard. The pairing with the rediscovered Leccese Rustico or with a gourmet savoury pasticciotto should not be underestimated. The origins of the pasticciotto are disputed between Galatina, where it was allegedly created in 1740, and Lecce, where it was made for the first time in 1911. In reality, traces of it can be found in texts by Annibal Caro from 1538, and by Bartolomeo Scappi in 1570. Be that as it may, the tasty dessert has become the symbol of pastries from Puglia. Antonio Campeggio, maestro pastry chef from l’Arte bianca pastry shop in Parabita, in the province of Lecce, offers a contemporary version. The shape of his sweet and savoury pasticciotti, as defined 48 THE LEGEND
The “caffè speciale” The “caffè speciale” (special espresso) was created in Polignano a Mare, in the province of Bari, by Mario Campanella at the gelato shop and bar “Il Super Mago del Gelo”. Its ingredients are espresso, sugar, lemon zest, cream and amaretto. The drink is served warm in small glass cups, and it is famous for being one of the favourite drinks of the great Italian singer Domenico Modugno. Massimo Parisi on Adobe Stock by Antonio as “the magical reminder of the Apulian land”, is smaller and, above all, light, elegant, crumbly and fragrant. He replaced lard with butter, and the filling ranges from the classic pastry cream to a pistachio-, chocolate-, fig-, sour cherry- or mandarin orange- cream. The secret to a perfect pasticciotto is the right balance between a thin pastry crust and a very soft filling. The dessert should melt in your mouth. But Antonio Campeggio’s revolution does not stop at the pasticciotto. He has also decided to revisit the Leccese Rustico, which instead of being round is square. It is the rediscovery of a tradition that was lost during the 1970s due to pour industrial production. The “classic” proposal is made with a savoury puff pastry dough filled with mozzarella, Béchamel sauce and tomato. There are many different variations for the filling. Sundried tomatoes and Celline olives; PDO Capocollo from Martina Franca; tuna with cappers; cubed vegetables; lastly, sundried tomatoes with pitted Celline olives and capers. In all versions, Béchamel sauce is used. 49
Sweet Pasticciotto by Antonio Campeggio, APEI (Ambassador Pastry Chefs of Italian Excellence) maestro pastry chef Ingredients for about 15 pasticciotti Shortcrust dough • weak flour 500 g • granulated sugar 200 g • butter 220 g • powder baking yeast 10 g • egg yolks 30 g (about 2) • whole egg 50 g (1) • lemon zest 1/2 • vanilla 1/2 Knead the cold butter with your hands to make it workable. Add the granulated sugar and let it absorb into the butter. Add the flavourings and eggs. Lastly, add the flour that has been sifted together with the powder baking yeast. Mix well and place in the refrigerator wrapped in plastic wrap for at least one night. Pastry cream • whole milk 500 g • granulated sugar 150 g • rice starch 60 g • egg yolks 140 g (7) • vanilla 1/2 • lemon 1/2 Bring milk to a boil with the vanilla and lemon zest. In the meantime, whisk together the sugar and rice starch. Mix well, then add the yolks. When the milk boils, pour it over the egg and sugar mixture, and continue to cook it, either in the microwave or on the stove, until it reaches a temperature of 82-84°C. Pour it immediately onto a baking sheet and let cool. Put in a refrigerator covered with plastic wrap placed directly on top of the cream. Assembly Roll out the shortcrust pastry to a maximum thickness of 3 mm and form discs. Place the discs into a special steel or aluminium tartlet mould and push down with your thumbs until they take the shape of the mould; using a pastry bag, fill the mould with the pastry cream. Cover with another disc of shortcrust pastry, sealing the borders well, to obtain the classic shape of the pasticciotto. Bake in a preheated oven for about 10 minutes at 230°C. Recipe 50 THE LEGEND
Savoury Pasticciottini • grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese 100 g • peeled tomato to taste Put the butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg in a saucepan on the stove. Melt the butter and pour in the flour. As soon as the flour is absorbed, start pouring in the milk a little at a time and continue to cook over medium heat. Add the diced mozzarella and mix well. Add the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Allow to cool a little before use. Add the tomato. Assembly Roll out the puff pastry to a thickness of two millimetres and cut into 10 × 10 cm squares with a pastry cutter. Brush the edges of the puff pastry square with beaten eggs. Using a pastry bag, place in the centre about 50 g of Béchamel sauce to which the peeled tomato (or another filling, in case you have chosen a different one) has been added. Take another square sheet of puff pastry and cover. Seal the edges tightly. Then, with the help of a round cookie cutter, lightly press a border around the filling, forming the characteristic rounded dome. Brush the entire surface of the Rustico with egg. To give a toasted taste, you can sprinkle the surface with seeds, if desired. Bake in a preheated convection oven for six minutes at 210°C and then another 5 minutes at 240°C. As soon as you see the filling coming out, take it out of the oven. The Rustico should be served hot. by Antonio Campeggio, maestro pastry chef The procedures and the assembly are the same as for the sweet version. Savoury shortcrust dough • weak flour 500 g • white almond powder 100 g • butter 250 g • salt 12 g • sugar 15 g • powder baking yeast 10 g • eggs 100 g (2) Margherita filling • mozzarella 200 g • Bechamel sauce 200 g • grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese 50 g • fresh cream 50 g • oregano 5 g • peeled, crushed and salted tomatoes to taste Mix all the ingredients. Salento Rustici Puff pastry dough made with your own recipe, with the caveat to make it only with butter Filling • butter 100 g • flour 100 g • salt 2 g • pepper to taste • nutmeg to taste • whole milk 500 g • cubed mozzarella 500 g Recipe 51
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