CONTENTS Editorial 7 Contributors 9 Italian style in Paris 10 Undergrowth 12 Global success 16 Taleggio brulé 22 The king of Sicily 26 Moscato D’Asti the comeback 30 Ninì 46 The versatility of rice 50 Pastry collection 58 The companies 96 Year 10 - No. 28 NOVEMBER 2021
ICETEAM I 9 2 7 WE ARE READY... ARE YOU? Come and discover • • our 1nnovat1ons aboutGelato & Pastry! -__,...----:1 :•-J A R°) ' ;;;Jl'JB!C:-.iJiD �L ,- Compacta Varl08 �� SIIGIEP> THE DOLCE WORLD EXPO IGELATISSIMO World of gelato 5.-9.2.2022 I Messe Stuttqart (DE) 22-26 JANUARY 2022 RIMINI 05-09 FEBRUARY 2022 STUTTGART 19-22 FEBRUARY 2022 MADRID O@iceteam 1927 info@iceteam1927.it www.iceteam1927.it Tel. +39 051.6505330 G)iceteam1927_aligroup
EDITORIAL New horizons! We have started up again! Some specialized exhibitions have already taken place, with a good turnout of visitors and professionals. You can feel the strong desire to go back to “normalcy” and to meet up once again. We exhibited our publications in Bari at Levante Prof, with many people and very few rules… then in Lyon for Sirha, which saw the Italian team triumph at the Pastry World Cup. Afterwards we travelled to Milan for Host - Tutto Food, where we saw many professionals once again. Shortly afterwards, we “landed” in Dubai for the Speciality Food Festival, and we are now preparing to head off to Mig in Longarone. All very positive experiences, but… But the pandemic is not giving up, and now as we are going to press with this dossier, we are in the middle of a fourth wave of infections, especially in Europe. The much-discussed “green passes” are increasingly shaping the new boundaries of mobility, drawing new horizons to which we must refer. You get vaccinated and you work; you don’t get vaccinated, and you remain blocked: you cannot fly, you cannot travel, you cannot work, you cannot live. In January, we will be heading to Sigep in Rimini, full of expectations. Afterwards, we will travel to Stuttgart, and here too we have to cross our fingers. We need to hang in there. It isn’t easy, but it is absolutely necessary. In the meantime, you will find lots of news and suggestions in this issue of SweetMood, dedicated to multiple Italian excellencies. Until our next meeting, better if in person. Franco Cesare Puglisi 7
CONTRIBUTORS SWEETMOOD-puntoITALY Milan - Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Three-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 10 - No. 28 - November 2021 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Monica Viani Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca Patrick Hopkins Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv srl - Milan Editrade srl - Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - 20133 Milan, I Tel. +39 02 70004960 Fax +39 02 70004962 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Aziende Grafiche Printing Peschiera Borromeo (Milan, I) All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. Denis Dianin Master pastry chef Alessandra Poni Reporter Giorgio Facchinetti Flair bartender Elide Mollo Master chef Alessandro Borghese Master chef Massimo Tringali Master chef Davide Rangoni Master chef Monica Viani Reporter 9
10 FROM THE COVER ITALIAN STYLE IN PARIS Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante. The secret of its success lies in the unmistakable style of Giorgio Armani, in the mastery of chef Massimo Tringali and in the intuition of Massimo Mori, a master of Italian cuisine in Paris. By Monica Viani From the left: Executive Chef Massimo Tringali, Chef Pâtissier Antonino Di Stefano, Sous Chef Claudio Oliva and Garde-Manger Leonardo Patton.
11 Giorgio Armani is not only a famous Italian designer, known throughout the world as “King Giorgio”, but he is also one of the first entrepreneurs to believe in brand extension, so much so that he invested in the hotel and restaurant industries. Back in 1998, he opened on the Rive Gauche in Paris his first Emporio Caffè, an experiential place created to illustrate the most authentic Italian style, elegance and luxuriousness directly on the plate. The great Italian designer’s philosophy was translated in the kitchen by Massimo Mori, who succeeded in establishing the Chef Massimo Tringali Massimo Tringali is originally from Sicily, and he is the chef of the restaurant that is the point of reference for Italian cuisine on French soil. After having attended hospitality school in Sicily, he moved to Paris in 2001. At a very young age, he became the head chef at the Mona Lisa hotel, on Rue La Boétie. Later he joined the brigade of the prestigious and Michelin-starred restaurant Il Carpaccio of Royal Monceau. Then, after lengthy experience in Corsica, he returned to Italy. In 2016, he met Massimo Mori and he returned to Paris, where he became the Executive Chef of the Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante. In 2018, he earned a Michelin star. Armani Caffè’s team is completed by Chef Pâtissier Antonino Di Stefano, Sous Chef Claudio Oliva and Garde-Manger Leonardo Patton: a group of professionals who are crucial for creating the magic of a restaurant that is constantly searching for quality and refined taste. value, the quality, the aromas and the flavours of Italian cuisine with Parisians. This journey was rewarded by earning a Michelin star in 2018, under the guidance of chef Massimo Tringali. The strength of territoriality The secret of Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante’s success lies in its courage not only to offer Italian cuisine on French territory, but also for having chosen to not betray its authenticity by searching for products made by small producers. Massimo Tringali’s dishes respect the quality of the ingredients, seasonality and tradition, as well as that simplicity in which hides extensive research. The menu is strictly Italian, with a strong Mediterranean imprint. It skilfully mixes tradition with innovation, with elegance and a pinch of light-heartedness. All of this constantly with sophisticated taste. In true Armani style.
An unusual, captivating dessert featuring a combination of chocolate and truffle. A combination that isn’t simple, but that offers truly surprising aromas and flavours. UNDERGROWTH By Massimo Tringali 12 RECIPES
COMPOSITION • crème anglaise • 70% chocolate Bavarian cream • hazelnut and cocoa cookie • shiny cocoa glaze • red berry ganache • cinnamon sponge • white truffle gelato with Pacojet • porcino mushroom meringue • cocoa meringue • cocoa sauce • pear and squash chips • mountain pine syrup • cocoa nibs CRÈME ANGLAISE • milk 100 g • cream 100 g • egg yolk 40 g • sugar 20 g Boil the milk with the cream. Pour over the previously mixed egg yolk and sugar. Heat everything to 83°C. 70% CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM • crème anglaise 250 g • animal gelatin 4 g • 70% coating 162 g • semi-whipped cream 325 g Heat the crème anglaise to 45°C. Add the animal gelatin to the crème anglaise. Pour the mix into the 70% coating. Emulsify everything with an immersion blender. Finish with the semi-whipped cream. 13
HAZELNUT AND COCOA COOKIE • egg yolk 250 g • sugar 150 g • inverted sugar 28 g • salt 1 g • egg white 300 g • sugar 175 g • flour 137 g • cocoa 100 g • hazelnut paste 125 g Beat the egg yolks with 150 grams of granulated sugar and the inverted sugar. Gently fold in the hazelnut paste to avoid deflating the mix. Beat the egg whites with 175 grams of sugar. Gently combine the beaten egg whites with the first mix, alternating with the flour and cocoa. Place in moulds and bake at 200°C for about 6-7 minutes. SHINY COCOA GLAZE • water 50 g • sugar 376 g • cream 35% 416 g • gelatin 200 bloom 24 g • water 120 g • unsweetened cocoa 135 g • neutral gelatin 500 g Heat the neutral gelatin with 50 grams of water and bring to a boil. Add the cream, the sugar and cocoa and bring to a boil. Finish with the gelatin 200 bloom rehydrated in 120 grams of water. Keep refrigerated for at least 24 hours before use. Heat to 35°C. RED BERRY GANACHE • cream 85 g • honey 100 g • dextrose 80 g • 40% coating 400 g • raspberry puree 165 g Bring the cream, dextrose and honey to a boil. Pour into the 40% coating and emulsify with the immersion blender. Finally, add the raspberry puree at room temperature and emulsify again. CINNAMON SPONGE • egg white 50 g • egg yolk 20 g • sugar 100 g • milk 100 g • flour 50 g • sunflower seed oil 50 g • cinnamon powder 5 g Add all ingredients and emulsify with an immersion blender. Place the mix in a siphon and load it with two cream cartridges. Set aside for one hour. Then, siphon in a paper cup and cook in the microwave for 45 seconds. WHITE TRUFFLE GELATO WITH PACOJET • whole milk 1000 g • dry milk 80 g • cream 120 g • egg yolk 200 g • sugar 150 g • salt 3 g • truffle 6 g Place the truffle in the milk and cream to steep overnight. Filter and bring to a boil. Pour the liquids over the egg yolk and sugar mixture and heat to 85°C. Add the truffle and salt back into the mix and emulsify. Leave to rest in the fridge for 24 hours. Then place the mix in the cups and allow to freeze. Use the Pacojet as needed. 14 RECIPES
asierromero - freepik PORCINO MUSHROOM MERINGUE • egg white 100 g • sugar 200 g • porcino powder 6 g Beat the egg white with the porcino powder at medium speed. Sprinkle in the sugar until a very solid structure is achieved. Form the stems with a no. 7 nozzle and leave to dry at 70°C for one night. COCOA MERINGUE • egg whites 100 g • sugar 140 g • cocoa 10 g • powdered sugar 60 g Beat the egg whites at medium speed. Sprinkle in the granulated sugar. Beat until you have a solid structure. Gently add the powdered sugar mixed with the cocoa. Create the shape of a mushroom using a no. 8 nozzle. Leave to dry at 70°C for one night. COCOA SAUCE • cream 60 g • water 56 g • sugar 80 g • cocoa 23 g • cocoa butter 10 g Bring the water, cream and sugar to 106°C. Pour over the cocoa and filter. Add finely chopped cocoa butter. Allow to cool. PEAR AND SQUASH CHIPS • Conference pear 1 • small squash 1 • powdered sugar to taste Cut the pear and squash lengthwise into thin slices (about 0.5 cm). Place on a silpat mat and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Bake at 160°C for about 30 minutes. MOUNTAIN PINE SYRUP • water 100 g • sugar 100 g • mountain pine needles 15 g Wash the mountain pine needles very carefully. Dry and sprinkle them with half the sugar. Blend. In a saucepan, boil the mix with the remaining sugar and water. Filter the mixture with cheesecloth. ASSEMBLY Heat the cocoa glaze in the microwave, not exceeding a temperature of 35°C. Use silicone moulds to form the single portions consisting of chocolate Bavarian cream and the hazelnut and cocoa cookie. Place on a grill and coat with the shiny cocoa glaze. Puncture the single portion in the centre with the help of a bamboo stick. Roll the single portion over the cocoa nibs so they stick to the sides. Use a brush on a plate to create a vortex with the cocoa sauce. Then, place the glazed single portion on the plate to the left of the vortex. Form small mushrooms with the two meringues. Place a meringue mushroom on the single portion to cover the hole created by the bamboo stick. Garnish with a few tufts of red berry ganache, add the slices of caramelized squash and pear. Finish the dish with a quenelle of white truffle gelato and a few drops of mountain pine syrup and cinnamon sponge. Racool_studio - freepik 15
by Alessandra Poni GLOBAL SUCCESS 16 COMPETITIONS
The Italian team is the World Pastry Champion 2021-2022. Italy triumphed at the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie held during Sirha in Lyon, France last September. Japan earned the silver medal and France took bronze. Switzerland won the sustainability award, and the team spirit award went to Chile. This is Italy’s third gold medal, joining the medals from 1997 and 2015. The Italian team was coached by Alessandro Dalmasso, president of Club Italia Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie, and is composed of Lorenzo Puca, team captain, Massimo Pica and Andrea Restuccia. Lorenzo Puca and Andrea Restuccia were already part of the team chaired by Alessandro Dalmasso that won the bronze medal in New management French pastry chef Pierre Hermé is the new president of the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie, replacing Gabriel Paillason, who is now the honorary president. He introduced, among many new developments, the restaurant dessert trial, which took the place of the plated dessert trial of past editions. This trial was judged by a jury that was specifically established and composed by eight maestros, including both pastry chefs and chefs de cuisine. This new trial was introduced to emphasize the importance of the pastry chef and of the collaboration between the chef de cuisine and the pastry chef. Another change was that the ice sculpture trial was eliminated, and it was replaced by the chocolate sculpture trial. 2019. Dalmasso wanted to have the World Pastry Champion of 2015 as coaches for the team, each bringing their own unique experiences. These coaches were Fabrizio Donatone, Francesco Boccia and Emmanuele Forcone, and the training sessions were held at Cast Alimenti in Brescia. The training was strenuous, every day of the week from seven in the morning until midnight, including holidays. Lorenzo Puca oversaw the chocolate dessert and the sugar sculpture; Andrea Restuccia was the gelato specialist; Massimo Pica created the chocolate sculpture. The team was tightknit, and their past competition experience helped them to not repeat the same mistakes. 17
18 COMPETITIONS
Imitation of nature All art is an imitation of nature: this was the only theme for the eleven teams. Four works needed to be prepared in only ten hours, along with ten restaurant desserts, four gelato entremets, an artistic sugar sculpture and a chocolate one (both of which could not exceed 165 centimetres in height). The base of the chocolate sculpture needed to be carved from a block of dark chocolate, a trial which replaced the ice sculpture one. The chocolate dessert à partager (or dessert to be shared) juxtaposed with the entremets dessert, that is the layered chocolate cake. The dessert à partager differed from the entremets in that it was a dessert to be shared; once it was portioned and plated, it needed to have the elegance of a single-portion dessert, and the cut needed to be clean without any visible stratification. The Italian team perfectly interpreted the theme. “The art of nature” was the leitmotif which focused on bees, honey, pollination and ants. “Royal flower” was the name of the chocolate dessert with bee designs on the petals; “Bee flower” was the name of the gelato cake that was topped with a bee; for the restaurant dessert, a bee buzzed around the hive recreated with wafer. In this edition, it was imperative to create all products during the competition, whereas in the past it was possible to bring already-prepared elements such as sponge cake or other items. Innovative desserts Research and development are the goal of this type of competition, and innovation is particularly rewarded. For example, the Italian gelato cake contained a meringue in the shape of a 3D doughnut; when cut, a circle of meringue was obtained, adding crunchiness to every bite. To create this, the pastry chefs studied alu19
minium moulds and a manual machine that can roll out the meringue with a four-millimetre thickness. The restaurant dessert was also innovative, and it obtained the maximum score from the judges; the dessert was a 3D beehive wafer created thanks to a special mould made by a precision mechanics workshop. Up until now, the beehive wafers have only been 2D and prepared with stencils. In conclusion, the chocolate sculptures gave life to two ants, one of which rested on a snail carved entirely from a 25-kg block of chocolate. 20 COMPETITIONS
21
Davide Rangoni, an Italian starred chef, offers a non-sweet dessert that is the result of a culinary exploration that drives him to compose and recompose ingredients and dishes in the name of continuous research. TALEGGIO BRULÉ By Davide Rangoni Davide Rangoni, chef for two years at Dolomieu in Madonna di Campiglio and from this year also at the Sulphur restaurant in Torri del Benaco, Verona 22 RECIPES
COMPOSITION (ingredients for four people) • Brulé • Sesame crunch with mountain pine • Chinese lanterns with mustard (replaceable with Chinese lantern mostarda with mustard) 23
Inspiration The cuisine of Davide Rangoni, a starred chef, is best described by three words: balance, harmony, and vibration. The latter arises from the stimulation of the senses and a maniacal focus on details, down to the use of custom ceramic plates with a dual character: shiny on the surface where the food is placed, rough and unpolished underneath. It is here that touch and sound combine to write the musical score of his cuisine. BRULÉ • taleggio cheese PDO 125 g • fresh cream 500 g • sugar 50 g • egg 80 g Bring the fresh cream to a boil and add the taleggio cheese. When the temperature is no higher than 80°C, add the eggs and the sugar. Place the mixture in a ceramic baking dish and cook in a bain-marie at 165°C for about 35 minutes. When the consistency is firm, remove the mixture from the bain-marie and allow it to cool. Strain the mix to make it creamy, and place it in a pastry bag. SESAME CRUNCH WITH MOUNTAIN PINE • flour 00 30 g • powdered sugar 100 g • melted butter 60 g • white sesame 45 g • orange juice 50 g • mountain pine syrup 50 g Mix all the liquid ingredients with a whisk, then add the powdered sugar and sesame. Spread on a baking paper in the desired shape. Subsequently it can be perfected while hot using a cutting tool. Bake for 7 minutes at 175°C until golden brown. CHINESE LANTERNS WITH MUSTARD • Chinese lanterns 500 g • sugar 250 g • glucose 50 g • drop of mustard essence 1 Macerate the cleaned, washed Chinese lanterns without the husk (the thin sand-coloured membrane that surrounds the berry and that is shaped like a lantern) for 24 hours. Drain the liquids and sauté in a hot pan for 2 minutes. Repeat this procedure three times at a distance of eight hours. Only when completely cooled, very carefully add the mustard essence. ASSEMBLY Form the brulé on the plate, add the Chinese lantern with mustard before placing the crunch on top. Sorin Gheorghita on unsplash 24 RECIPES
Why a non-sweet sweet Oftentimes it’s hard to choose a dessert in the restaurant because a note that is suddenly too sweet can be overbearing. To the rescue comes the nonsweet sweet whose function is to accompany the guest’s palate to dessert. With his Taleggio Brulé Davide Rangoni harks back to the days when cheese was served at the end of a meal, but turning it into an “almost sweet.” The square shape of the specialty recalls the shape of taleggio, the crunch recalling the colour of the cheese’s crust. Mountain pine, a syrup prepared with small pine cones macerated in a natural way and which – according to ancient tradition – must be preserved for a maximum of seven years, gives the non-sweet sweet the aroma of medicinal herbs and resin, transporting those who taste it into the vibrant, fresh air of the mountains. 25
Photo by Ammu THE KING OF SICILY 26 TRADITION
Photo by Ammu Photo by Ammu Sicilian cannoli are a symbolic and classic dessert of the island’s confectionary culture. Its distinctive trait is to wrap a crunchy and crispy shell around a filling made with sheep’s ricotta. As decoration, chocolate chips, candied orange peels and candied cherries are a must. As is often the case, tracing the origins of a dessert is never easy. Searching for the origins of cannoli means diving into a past that often has undefined boundaries. What is certain is that it is a traditional Sicilian recipe, and, in its most archaic form, it dates to the Greek and then Roman times. Some argue that the recipe most similar to the one we know today was born in a cloistered convent in Caltanissetta, where the nuns prepared the first cannoli by revisiting an ancient Roman recipe. But another legend attributes cannoli to the women of a castle harem, during Arab rule around 1000. The dessert is said to have been invented to seduce and exalt the masculinity of their men. Which is not surprising when you consider that in the past, having children was a true blessing. For the poorest families, it meant having more hands to work the field, for the richer families it meant having heirs. What we can certainly affirm is that the cannoli recipe is an excellent example of cultural contamination. The ancient Arab confectionary traditions combined together with the skill of Sicilian nuns who were always eager to find new recipes to delight parties and celebrations. Suggestive Sicilian desserts Today Sicilian cannoli are made with dough rolled up in a tube shape and filled with sheep’s ricotta that has been flavoured with various ingredients. The shape suggests the 27
Claudio Pantoni on Unsplash Photo by Ammu Photo by Ammu male organ, considered a symbol of fertility and abundance. In Sicilian pastry arts, it is not the only suggestive dessert. Such is the case for the “Minni ri virgini” or “Cassatelle di Sant’Agata”, which are hemisphere-shaped ricotta filling that has been covered with a white glaze and topped with a candied cherry, made to resemble a woman’s chest. They recall the martyrdom of Saint Agatha, who had her breasts excised for having rejected the sexual advances of General Quintianus. Another example of these types of desserts are the “Feddi ru Cancillieri”, which consists of an apricot marmalade wedged in between two cookies, which is jokingly supposed to represent the buttocks of a chancellor. Precisely because of their sexual references, cannoli were prepared to celebrate Carnival, a time when anything was allowed. In particular, men would give cannoli to women to court them in a bold way. Today, they are consumed all year round, and the best ones are those that are 14 cm in length. 28 TRADITION
Deryn Macey on Unsplash Freepik - Racool Studio Cannoli are international Cannoli are recognized throughout the world as an Italian dessert, so much so that in Italy there is no lack of pastry chefs that dedicate themselves almost exclusively to this dessert. This is the case of Ammu, a pastry brand born after Expo 2015. It surely had a lucky start which led to the sale of over 130 thousand cannoli and recognition as the best cannoli at the Expo. The first opening in Milan occurred in 2016. Afterwards, five more stores were opened: three in Milan and two in Rome, along with an online shop. Ammu live on a path of experimentation, but at the same it is rooted in tradition. It has become famous for its “express” cannoli that are stuffed only when they are ordered, and it has become the point of reference for those in the heart of Lombardy who love Sicily and its confectionary culture. It is a declaration of love, even in the name of the brand. The word “Ammu” is a verse that Sicilian mothers make when feeding their children, a contraction of the word “ammuccamu”, which indicates someone who is enjoying a delicacy. They offer two recipes, a classic version, the result of an ancient noble family’s recipe, and a pistachio one. The secret of their success lies in their choice of sheep ricotta, which must be of the highest quality. All the mastery lies in finding the right balance of sugar, so that the ricotta cream is sweet but not overwhelmingly so. The shell is an ancient recipe from Catania, crispy and crunchy, with a pinch of cocoa powder to balance the sweetness of the ricotta. The garnishes include candied orange peels and cherries, Sicilian pistachios and dark chocolate chips. 29
MOSCATO D’ASTI THE COMEBACK 30 HISTORY Mirafiore - Villaggio Narrante
In Piedmont, the sweet Moscato wines Moscato d’Asti Docg and Asti Docg are produced. They are wines that go well with desserts, but they also allow for interesting accompaniments with savoury dishes and use in mixology. The Langhe, a hilly area between the provinces of Asti and Cuneo bordering the Roero and Monferrato areas, are poetically summarizes by the Asti Docg, a designation reserved for three types of wine: the aromatic Asti Dolce, the refreshing Asti Secco (which ranges from pas dosè to Brut) and sweet Moscato d’Asti. The secret of their quality and their success is contained in three T’s: terroir, traditions and territory. Bianco, a local variety There are 9700 hectares of “moscato bianco,” or white muscat vineyards, and 51 municipalities in three provinces are involved in the production of Asti Docg. It is an economic activity that involves those who cultivate the grapes, turn it into wine and make it sparkling. It is produced by small- to medium-sized companies, or by winemaking cooperatives that transform the grapes from their own vineyards. The wine is characterized by its aromatic intensity and by its balance between the acidity and the sweetness of the sugar con31
tent. These characteristics are accompanied by a low alcohol content. It is recognizable by the intense musky aroma of the grape from which it is made, and with its delicate flavour that recalls wisteria, linden, peach and apricot along with hints of sage, lemon and orange blossoms. The story of making Muscat sparkling wine starts in 1850 with the oenologist from Piedmont Carlo Gancia. After having traveling throughout the Champagne region, he decided to make an Italian version using the local aromatic variety from Piedmont, Moscato. The bottles used, referred to as “Asti pesanti,” needed to withstand up to ten atmospheres of pressure and those who worked in the winery had to protect themselves from the explosions caused by uncontrolled fermentation in the bottle. Only from 1940 onwards, thanks to the discovery of autoclaves, will production of Asti wines with the Charmat-Martinotti method begin, and this will bring the wine to an industrial production of one million bottles. The aromatic bouquet of Italy’s first sparkling wine is rich with aromas of acacia flowers, wisteria and orange blossoms, mountain honey with an afternote of spices, elderflower and bergamot. Versatile, refreshing and delicate, a glass of this wine pairs well with both savoury and sweet dishes, 32 HISTORY Underground cellars Cantina Mirafiore
especially now that the recent changes in the Docg Asti regulations have introduced the drier versions that have a lower sugar content. These additions can join aperitifs, cocktails and the whole meal. The Asti Secco Docg, unlike the sweet version, while maintaining its strong identity of the Moscato grape, has florals hints on the nose, specifically of sage, lavender and fruit, where plums and lemon stand out the most. Territory, wine and culture There are many examples to describe the relationship of Moscato d’Asti and of Asti Spumante with its territory as written by Cesare Pavese and Beppe Fenoglio. We have chosen two of them, the Villaggio Narrante at Fontanafredda and the Underground cellars of Canelli. In the heart of the Langhe region, an UNESCO World Heritage site, you can find the Villaggio Narrante 33
of Fontanafredda, surrounding by rolling hills and vineyards of which every corner has a unique story to tell. An example is the story of Bela Rosin, first the lover then the morganatic wife of the first king of Italy. The gracious Rosina had two sons with the King, and she was given the title of Countess of Mirafiori and Fontanafredda. In 1878, after the death of her father, her son Emanuele Alberto started putting his business skills to use. He starting to produce Barolo wine and to bring to life the Villaggio, by building farmhouses, cellars, stables, a school, a church, a tobacconist, a bakery, and a recreational club called “Fratellanza Agricola Operaia.” This translates to the “Brotherhood of Farmworkers” and the communi34 HISTORY Fontanafredda
Mirafiore Royal Villa - Villaggio narrante 35 Fontanafredda
The Consortium to safeguard It was established on December 17, 1932, and recognized in 1934, adopting the patron saint of Asti as the consortium brand, Saint Secundus of Asti, as he sits on a horse. Its objective is to safeguard, create value and promote Asti Docg and Moscato d’Asti Docg in Italy and throughout the world. It controls the entire production chain, and it monitors any counterfeits of the designation. Its crown jewel is its scientific laboratory, unique in its kind, where in addition to controls, scientific studies are carried out with the goal of innovation and qualitative improvement for the entire production cycle. 36 HISTORY
The Big Bench and the colours of Piedmont They are giant benches, coloured in a way that recalls the territory in which you can find them. They are over two and half meters high, and they are placed in different panoramic points throughout Piedmont. Conceived by the American designer Chris Bangle, they allow adults to feel like children again, and they also allow for an amazing view of an extraordinary territory; they represent the perfect synthesis of the happy relationship between humanity, art and nature. ty, at the time illiterate, would meet to hear books being read out loud. Today, Fontanafredda can boast having embraced organic farming, coining the term Green Renaissance to describe a path started in 2015. In addition to Barolo, Moscato is also produced here, a wine that has its roots in the peasant history of the territory, as told by a poem by Cesare Pavese in “The Moon and the Bonfires.” To not succumb to fatigue after many hours of work, the farmworkers brought a snack with them, called “la sinòira,” which included a refreshing and light wine, precisely the Moscato wine. Another site that cannot be missed is a trip to the elegant town of Canelli and to its Underground Cathedrals which represent a secular yet spiritual landscape that touches the soul. A UNESCO heritage site, they are called the Underground Cathedrals for their grandeur: they are immense and winding cellars, carved directly into the tuff rock of the hills between the sixteenth and the nineteenth centuries. The four cathedrals, headed by the noble families of remarkable wines - Bosca, Contratto, Coppo, Gancia – are caverns of light, shadows, of sacred silence, of walls of exposed brick, of majestic vaults, of aromas, of industrious work, of the art of making, but also of meetings to learn about the magic of wine. 37
Sweets, and more. Reworked tradi- tional specialties to be combined with the aromas and flavors of Asti Spumante and Moscato. TIRAMISU Classic combination By Elide Mollo Chef of the restaurant Il Centro di Priocca, with one Michelin Star COMPOSITION • tiramisu cream • coffee gelatin • savoiardi ladyfingers • unsweetened cocoa powder for decoration Recipes FROM TRADITION TO INNOVATION 38 HISTORY
TIRAMISU CREAM • sugar 200 g • water 70 g • pasteurized egg yolks 176 g • marsala 65 g • isinglass 6 g • Seirass ricotta 500 g • cream 350 g Make a pâte à bombe, bringing the sugar and water to 121°C to form a syrup. Drizzle it into the whipped yolks. In the meantime, warm the marsala and add the isinglass that was previously rehydrated and then squeezed to remove the excess water. Combine the mix with the pâte à bombe, add the cheese and continue to beat until cool. Leave to rest in the fridge for two hours. Finally, whip the cream and add it to the previous mix. COFFEE GELATIN • espresso coffee 200 g • isinglass 2 g Prepare the coffee, add the isinglass that was previously soaked in water and then squeezed. Set aside for four hours. SAVOIARDI LADYFINGERS • eggs 8 • weak flour 160 g • potato starch 40 g • sugar 200 g Separate the egg yolks from the egg whites, beat them separately with 100 g of sugar. Do the same for the egg whites and the remaining 100 g of sugar. Add the egg whites and the previously sifted flour to the well-beaten yolks. Line the baking trays with baking paper, form the savoiardi, sprinkle them with powdered sugar and bake at 140°C for 10 minutes, then lower the temperature to 80°C and leave them to dry in the oven for 30 minutes. ASSEMBLY Pour the first layer of tiramisu cream into a baking dish, distribute the savoiardi, cover them with coffee gelatin, then continue to build layers in this same order, ending with cream. Sprinkle the surface with unsweetened cocoa powder. 39
BANANA SPLIT By Alessandro Borghese Brand Ambassador of Asti and Moscato d’Asti DOCG (Savoury dish at the restaurant AB - Il lusso della semplicità in Milan) Recipe for 4 people COMPOSITION • hazelnut shortcrust pastry • peanut cream • crushed banana HAZELNUT SHORTCRUST PASTRY • butter 395 g • powdered sugar 355 g • hazelnut flour 120 g • salt 8 g • eggs 200 g • 00 flour 920 g In a planetary mixer mix the butter, hazelnut flour, sugar and a third of the 00 flour. When the dough is uniform, add the rest of the ingredients. Line a buttered mould and bake for 15 minutes in a static oven at 165°C. Contemporary look 40 HISTORY
PEANUT CREAM • cream 105 g • fresh milk 105 g • egg yolk 45 g • sugar 20 g • chocolate 45% 200 g • gelatin 200 bloom 2 g • water 10 g • vanilla pod 1 • peanut paste 100 g Prepare an English cream with milk, cream, yolk, sugar, and vanilla pod. When it reaches 85°C pour it over the chocolate, add the gelatin that has been rehydrated in water and let it dissolve with the peanut paste. CRUSHED BANANA • banana • 10% sugar • lemon juice Blend a frozen banana that has been diced and covered with the sweetened citric acid. Let it dry for one day in the oven at a temperature of 50°C. ASSEMBLY After cooking the pastry in white, add the peanut cream dissolved in the microwave. Place in the fridge. When everything has crystallized, add the crushed banana using a spoon to give it a quenelle shape. Complete with a banana wafer and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 41
TELEPHONE SUPPLÌ WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS By Alessandro Borghese Brand Ambassador of Asti and Moscato d’Asti DOCG (Savoury dish at the restaurant AB - Il lusso della semplicità in Milan) Recipe for 4 people COMPOSITION • ragu sauce • supplì Contemporary look 42 HISTORY
RAGU SAUCE • chicken giblets 200 g • tomato puree 400 g • garlic clove 1 • coarse sausage 1 • glass of white wine 1 • butter 50 g Clean the chicken giblets, cut them into small pieces, and fry them in a pan with butter and garlic. Add the sausage without casing, simmer with the white wine until reduced, add the tomato and cook over low heat. SUPPLÌ • arborio rice 200 g • parmesan cheese 30 g • butter 50 g • whole eggs 4 • fiordilatte mozzarella 200 g • chicken broth 1 l • sunflower oil 1 l • breadcrumbs to taste Toast the rice in a pan and start cooking with the hot broth. Halfway through cooking, add the ragu sauce, finish the preparation leaving the rice dry, stirring in the butter and parmesan cheese. Cool the rice by laying it on a baking tray. Cut the fiordilatte cheese and let it dry on paper towels. When the rice is cold, prepare the supplìs, filling them with a generous dose of fiordilatte. Place in the refrigerator for at least four hours. Bread the supplìs with egg and breadcrumbs and fry in hot oil. 43
Asti Dolce DOCG is ideal for preparing excellent cocktails to be served with salami, cheese, roasted peppers, omelets with wild herbs, or with traditional sòma d’aj, a dried bread rubbed with fresh garlic topped with a drizzle of olive oil. ASTI SIGNATURE By Giorgio Facchinetti Cocktail created by flair bartender and bar specialist Giorgio Facchinetti Mixology 44 HISTORY
• basil leaves 4 • pink grapefruit juice 1 • Sichuan pepper • Asti Dolce DOCG Pour a base of Asti Dolce DOCG to infuse the basil leaves and a slice of pink grapefruit, stir well and then add the ice. Finally fill the glass with Asti Dolce DOCG, pink grapefruit peel, and finish with a dash of ground Sichuan pepper. 45
By Denis Dianin A surprising dessert that meets the challenge of contemporary cuisine increasingly in search of aesthetics and textures capable of enhancing flavours. NINÌ 46 RECIPES
COMPOSITION • crispy bottom • cocoa shortcrust • coconut dacquoise • toffee • tropical fruit compote • milk chocolate and caramel cream • dark chocolate mousse CRISPY BOTTOM • milk chocolate 40% 20 g • dark chocolate 64% 30 g • hazelnut paste 50 g • hazelnut pralines 20 g • liquid butter 5 g • cocoa shortcrust 630 g Mix all the ingredients together, melting the chocolates. COCOA SHORTCRUST • sugar 92 g • powdered sugar 92 g • butter 372 g • shortcrust flour 430 g • powdered cocoa 49 g • egg 31 g • salt 2 g • orange peel 1 g • lemon peel 1 g Mix all the ingredients leaving the mixture coarse-grained or pass it through a large mesh sieve for a coarse-grained texture. Bake at 170°C for 15-20 minutes. COCONUT DACQUOISE • French meringue 370 g • cream 50 g • shredded coconut 175 g • shortcrust flour 130 g Mix flour and coconut in a blender. Whip the French meringue. Add the powders (flour and coconut), mixing by hand. Drip in the cream. Spread in 0.5 cm sheets. Bake at 250°C for about 5-6 minutes with the valve closed. 47
TOFFEE • sugar 257 g • dextrose 90 g • cream 385 g • glucose 81 g • butter 90 g Make a dry caramel with sugar and dextrose. Decoct with boiling cream and glucose. Reheat to 110°C. Add the butter and emulsify. Allow to stabilize in the fridge before use. TROPICAL FRUIT COMPOTE • mango pulp 315 g • passion fruit pulp 84 g • lime pulp 42 g • yuzu pulp 36 g • sugar 28 g • corn starch 15 g • bourbon vanilla 1 pc • animal gelatin170 bloom 4 g • water 25 g Soak the gelatin in cold water. Combine all the ingredients together except the gelatin and bring to a boil. Allow to boil for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the gelatin, and emulsify. Allow to stabilize in the fridge. MILK CHOCOLATE AND CARAMEL CREAM • gelatin powder 120 bloom 7 g • water 36 g • cream 35% 385 g • pâte à bombe 231 g • caramel coating 206 g Soak the gelatin in water. Heat the pâte à bombe. Pour the melted caramel coating and emulsify. Combine the cream, then the jelly, and mix everything. DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE • pâte à bombe 106 g • Italian meringue 32 g • soft butter 200 g • cream 35% 155 g • dark chocolate 64% 90 g Combine the pâte à bombe and Italian meringue. Heat to 40°C and whip. Melt the chocolate at 45°C. Whip the cream until it has a semi-whipped consistency. When the cream is ready, add a part of it to the chocolate to form a ganache. Add the softened butter. Combine the ganache with the pâte à bombe/meringue. Finally, incorporate the cream into the pâte à bombe/meringue. 48 RECIPES
ASSEMBLY Arrange the inner rings covered with acetate. Spread the crumble evenly on the bottom. Pour over the toffee. Stabilize in the fridge. Spread the tropical fruit compote and stabilize in the fridge. Decorate with the creamy caramel. Spread the coconut dacquoise on top and press well. Chill in the fridge, remove the rings, and blast freeze. Arrange the outer rings covered with acetate. Pour in dark chocolate mousse. Insert the interior with the crumble facing upwards, pressing. Cool in the fridge and remove the rings. Place in the blast freezer. Glaze and decorate as desired. 49
THE VERSATILITY OF RICE Photo credit Gianfranco Podestà 50 INGREDIENTS
Over 140 thousand different varieties of rice exist in the world, with over 140 officially enrolled in the national register in Italy. Each Italian region has its own dish, and each recipe has its own variety of rice. Rice’s story begins in the East, but its origins are very uncertain. For some scholars, “oryza sativa,” the scientific name of the species, first appeared along the slopes of the Himalayas over 15 thousand years ago. Others prefer to trace its origins to the south of China, attributing evidence to some archaeological excavations in the Yangtze River valley, which would suggest the existence of rice fields dating back 8 thousand years ago. From the Far East, rice then travelled to Mesopotamia and Egypt, where many centuries later the Arabs would get to know it. Before rice would arrive in the West, we will have to wait until Alessandro Magno’s expeditions in Asia. It seems that the ancient Greeks and Romans did not know about it very well, and they definitely did not use it for food. Plinio briefly described it, whereas Orazio, in a satire, speaks of a doctor who prescribes rice tea to a misery aristocrat to combat dysentery. Matrons used it as a facial beauty product for the skin, and gladiators drugged themselves with rice decoctions. 51
Aragonese and their passion for a Turkish dish made with rice and saffron. They donated it to Pisa, which then arrived in Lombardy and then to Ferrara, to then travel throughout the peninsula. A third thesis argues that the Venetian markets brought it from the East, but they opposed its cultivation so to not lose their business. We do know that during the Middle Ages, it was purchased mainly to be used as a thickener for sweets. The Plague officially caused a need to find nutritious foods, so the intensive cultivation of rice began. Thus, already during the sixteenth century, rice had become a widespread crop in Lombardy, and from there it spread to Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Veneto Before rice becomes food in the West, the Medieval times must first pass; to consider it an ingredient in gourmet dishes, we need to wait until the last century. Ancient recipe books, written for the banquets of nobles, completely ignore it, considering it an ingredient intended for the canteens of the poor to make soups and breads along with millet and rye. Lengthy history in Italy In the fourteenth century, rice was already known in Italy, but there is no certainty on how it arrived. The most accredited hypothesis refers to the Arabs around the year one thousand, who brought it to Sicily in the areas of Syracuse and Lentini. Other sources says that it arrived in Naples thanks to the 52 INGREDIENTS
regions. Finally in 1932, rice became a gourmet ingredient thanks to Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, who in the Futurist Manifesto declares himself a bitter enemy of pasta, which he considered disheartening; on the contrary, he supported rice as light, aerial, versatile, fast and, above all, for its ability to adapt and be used as in appetizers, first courses, entrees, and desserts. How varieties are born In reality, we should always consider “rice” to be the many “types of rice.” Already in the Faris Mohammed on Unsplash 53
nineteenth century in Italy, experiments were taking place to diversify the varieties resulting from the selection made by farmers over the years. The selection served to improve crop yields; it meant increased productivity and quality, resistance to adverse climatic conditions and resistance to chemical agents used in the fight against wild rice. To obtain better plants and to create new varieties, the breeder chooses which plants to crossbreed, each with different characteristics to obtain new combinations with properties that are only partially present in the original varieties. To make these characteristics stable over time in the new varieties, it is necessary to purify the plant from undesired genes, inherited together with the useful ones. To do so, subsequent crossbreeding takes place to eliminate as much as possible the harmful or “wild” genes. In addition to employing genetic variability already existing in nature, it is possible to create new varieties by inducing mutations with high-energy radiation (X rays, UV rays, Gamma rays), chemicals or biological tools. Baldo variety for gourmet cuisine Baldo is an Italian variety born in the 1970s, cultivated in the rice lands between Vercelli, Novara and Pavia, but currently it Each recipe has its own • For risotto, a rice-based dish commonly found in Northern Italy in its various version based on each territory’s traditions, the rice variety must withhold its structure during cooking and absorb well the flavourings. Recommended varieties are: Arborio, Baldo, Carnaroli, Razza77, Roma, Sant’Andrea, and Vialone Nano. • For soups, rice must rapidly absorb water and release a good amount of starch. Recommended varieties are: Originario, Ribe, Roma, and Sant’Andrea. • For arancini, supplì, sartù and other baked dishes, the rice must release enough starch to bind the grains together as well as to the other ingredients in the dish. Recommended varieties are: Originario, Ribe, Baldo, Roma, and Arborio. • For rice salads, rice must maintain its consistency after cooking, with grains that remain well separated. Recommended varieties are: Carnaroli, Vialone Nano and the aromatic ones such as Apollo, Artemide, Ermes, and Venere. • For paella, a Spanish dish that is fairly common in the world, the grains must remain firm and crunchy. Recommended varieties are: Carnaroli or Vialone Nano. • For desserts, rice with rounded grains are used. Recommended varieties are: Originario or Balilla. For cakes that need to remain soft, Baldo or Roma varieties are recommended. • For sushi, the Japanese dish now universally widespread, for Italian varieties that offer the right amount of starch, the recommended variety is Selenio. Roma and Baldo can also be used. Lukasz Rawa on Unsplash 54 INGREDIENTS
is increasingly rare due to the difficulties of its cultivation. The Riso Testa company defines as “Riserva” the rice (still in its raw state) that has rested in the silos of the rice paddy after drying, for a time that can range from one to three years. This technique allows for the grains to best complete their physiological maturation and to further improve its quality, which is already high, thanks to important chemical and physical transformations. Baldo stands out for the harmonious proportions of its grain, its rare glasslike and crystalline appearance, and its remarkably creamy consistency, making it the perfect pair with the ingredients and seasonings in the preparation of a risotto or many other dishes, even desserts. It is ideal for obtaining a true, creamy risotto. Another one of its important natural properties is its short cooking time, at only twelve/ fourteen minutes. To each region its dish Mentioning all the Italian recipes that have rice as the main ingredient is nearly impossible, but it is possible to highlight a few interesting points as we travel along the Boot. We start in Valle d’Aosta with Cogne soup, where rice is added to the soup. The addition of rice has ancient origins, where in the summer, pilgrims from the Aosta Valley and the Soana Valley of Piedmont would make a pilgrimage, meeting up in a sanctuary at a high altitude. On this occasion, they would exchange local products. Those who came from the plains would bring mainly rice, which was added to the soup. Piedmont has many different recipes, such as “Turta verde,” typical of Monferrato. It is a savoury recipe to be eaten either at room-temperature or cold, and between Easter and April 29th, the feast day of Holy Christ. The Lombardy region is the birthplace of “Risotto alla milanese.” In Brianza, sausage replaces the traditional ossobuco as an accompaniment. If in the Veneto region “riso e bisi” is on every table, in the Lazio region, Supplì are a must-have. In Campania region, the rice cake is enjoyed as much as the pastiera cake, in addition to the “Sartù,” a one-plate meal of the best Neapolitan tradition. In Puglia the “Tiella” rice with potatoes and mussels is king, and in Sicily you can find Arancini. The legend of “Risotto alla milanese” One of the most famous dishes in the world is “Risotto alla milanese,” a dish whose origins are told by a legend. According to a manuscript found at the Trivulziana Library in Milan, the birth of this speciality dish would be closely linked to the history of the construction of Milan’s Duomo. In 1574, Maestro Valerio of Flanders, a Flemish man from Leuven, was engaged in making the stained-glass windows of the Milanese Cathedral. At his side, he had an assistant who was called Saffron; the reason behind his nickname was linked to his habit of always adding a hint of saffron to the colours, to create a more vivid effect. One day, to make fun of him, the Maestro told the young assistant that if he continued this way, he would end up adding saffron even to his food. No sooner said than done, whether as a joke or in spite, on September 8, 1574, on the occasion of Valerio’s daughter’s wedding, Saffron made a deal with the chef to make a change in the wedding menu; to the rice, seasoned with butter, he asked the chef to add a pinch of the famous golden spice. To the amazement of the young man, the diners appreciated the joke, both for its flavour as well as the colourful note that it gave to the dish. Jocelyn Morales on Unsplash 55
Grandma Cristina’s Cake Ingredients for a hinged cake pan with a diameter of 24 cm • whole milk 750 ml • water 250 ml • Baldo Testa Riserva rice 350 g • granulated sugar 175 g • eggs 4 • butter 150 g • zest of 2 lemons • vanilla some seeds In a large pot, heat milk and water with butter, zest from untreated lemons, vanilla and half of the sugar. Meanwhile, simmer the rice in lightly salted water for five minutes. Drain the rice and place it in the milk, butter and sugar mixture to cook for another 12/13 minutes, stirring frequently as if it was a risotto. Once cooked, let it rest and cool. Separate the yolks from the egg white. Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks, then cream the yolks together with the rest of the sugar. Delicately add the yolks to the whites, mixing with folding movements from the bottom to the top. With the same procedure, add the eggs to the cooled rice mixture. Pour mixture into a greased and floured pan, then bake at 170°C in a static oven for 40 minutes. Recipe Chef Monica Ruspa 56 INGREDIENTS
Rice cake Ingredients • fresh milk 500 ml • rice 60 g • sugar 180 g • finely ground almonds 80 g • candied fruit 40 g • eggs 5 • star anise flavoured liquor 4 • lemon 1 • vanilla bean 1/2 • lemon peel • currants to taste Instructions Cook the rice with the milk, vanilla, a spoon of sugar, lemon peel and the almonds. Cook it slowly for 30 minutes, until all the milk is completely absorbed. Let cool. Remove the lemon peel. In a separate bowl, cream the eggs with the rest of the sugar. When they are whipped and airy, add to the cold rice. Flavour with the liquor. Finish with chopped candied fruit. Pour the rice mixture into a 20 x 20 cm mould that has been lined with baking paper. Place in a preheated oven at 180°C for 35 minutes. After 20 minutes of baking, place a sheet of aluminium foil on the cake. Remove from the oven and let cool. Decorate with currents. Recipe Chef Simone Bertaccini, Hotel Brunelleschi Firenze 57
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