CONTENTS Editorial 19 Contributors 20 The Shows 22 In partnership with 24 Giancarlo Timballo the President of the Gelato World Cup 28 From unusual to classic 34 It all started in 2002... 38 The Creativity of Champions 44 PuntoItaly wire 56 Fearless sweetness 62 The rise of veganism 66 The Companies 70 34 56 62 66 38 THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 13 - No. 37 - JANUARY 2024 - € 1.00 17
EDITORIAL THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 13 - No. 37 - JANUARY 2024 - € 1.00 Twenty years have passed since the first issue of puntoIT was published, the industry magazine specialized for the Italian market. A few years later, we began our editorial adventure with puntoItaly, our magazine for international markets. It has been a long journey that has taken us around the world, from Europe to Asia, from the Americas to Africa. We have been present with an exhibitor’s booth at 145 international trade shows, distributing over 1,5 million copies and connecting with tens of thousands of buyers. We are now approaching 2024, starting off with Sigep Rimini, followed by Gelatissimo in Stuttgart and Expo Sweet in Warsaw, contributing to spreading the culture of Italian artisanal sweets, appreciated and prized everywhere. In this new issue, you will find ample material dedicated to the Gelato World Cup, which is reaching its tenth edition. It is a journey filled with memories and stories from its protagonists, starting with Giancarlo Timballo, historic President of this gelato event, the most important in the world. Therefore, we look forward to seeing you at the upcoming trade shows, or you can find us online at puntoitaly.org, where you can find all the issues of the magazine and the most recent news. I wish you all the best with your work. 19
CONTRIBUTORS Massimo Carnio Master pastry chef Eugenio Morrone Master gelato chef Davide Pini Reporter Federica Serva Reporter Ernst Knam Master pastry chef Giancarlo Timballo President of Gelato World Cup Beppo Tonon Master gelato chef Sergio Colalucci Master gelato chef Diego Crosara Master pastry chef puntoITALY Milan - Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Three-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 13 - No. 37 - January 2024 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca, Patrick Hopkins Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv srl - Milano Editrade srl – Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - 20133 Milan, I Tel. +39 2 70004960 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Aziende Grafiche Printing Peschiera Borromeo, Italy Cover FOTO MAX - Mattia Serratore All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. 20
22 IN PARTNERSHIP WITH EXPO SWEET exposweet.pl ezig@exposweet.pl FHC CHINA www.fhcchina.com fhc@imsnoexpo.com FHA HORECA fhahoreca.com enquiry@foodnhotelasia.com GELATISSIMO www.gelatissimo.de info@messe-stuttgart.de GULFOOD www.gulfood.com gulfoodmarketing@dwtc.com HOST host.fieramilano.it host@fieramilano.it HOSTELCO www.hostelco.com hostelco@firabarcelona.com INTERNATIONAL PIZZA EXPO & CONFERENCE pizzaexpo.pizzatoday.com marketing@pizzaexpo.com LEVANTE PROF www.levanteprofbari.it info@levanteprofbari.it MIG www.mostradelgelato.com fiera@longaronefiere.it MONTE-CARLO GASTRONOMIE montecarlogastronomie.com info.carolicom@groupecaroli.mc NRA SHOW www.nationalrestaurantshow.com nraexhibitinfo@winsightmedia.com ROMA FOOD EXCEL romafoodexcel.it info@romafoodexcel.it SIGEP www.sigep.it helpdesk.rn@iegexpo.it SIRHA www.sirha-lyon.com sirhalyon2025@gl-events.com SÜDBACK suedback.de info@messe-stuttgart.de THE SPECIALITY FOOD FESTIVAL www.speciality.ae specialitymarketing@dwtc.com TIRRENO CT www.tirrenoct.it info@tirrenotrade.it THE SHOWS
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH ALVENA DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 2 98280138 www.alvena.it info@alvena.it ANSELMI DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.anselmi1892.com ACCADEMIA BIGATTON Tel. (+39) 421 271554 www.accademiabigatton.com info@accademiabigatton.com BABBI Tel. (+39) 543 448598 babbi.com info@babbi.it BIGATTON PRODUZIONE Tel. (+39) 421 271554 www.bigatton.com bigatton@bigatton.com BRAVO Tel. (+39) 444 707700 www.bravo.it info@bravo.it CARPIGIANI Tel. (+39) 51 6505111 www.carpigiani.com info@carpigiani.it CARTOPRINT Tel. (+39) 2 96399911 www.cartoprint.com infocartoprint@sedagroup.org COLALUCCI Tel. (+39) 6 92099203 www.colalucci.it info@colalucci.it COMPRITAL Tel. (+39) 2 95770829 www.comprital.com comprital@comprital.com CONI PERFETTO Tel. (+39) 81 5050033 www.coniperfetto.it info@coniperfetto.it DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333 600 www.disaronnoingredients.com info@disaronnoingredients.com FABBRI 1905 Tel. (+39) 51 6173111 www.fabbri1905.com commerciale@fabbri1905.com FRIGOMAT Tel. (+39) 377 415011 www.frigomat.com frigomat@frigomat.com FRUCTITAL Tel. (+39) 121 56587 www.fructital.it sales@fructital.it FUGAR Tel. (+39) 541 679470 www.fugar.it fugar@fugar.it GELATITALIA Tel. (+39) 35 4824335 www.gelatitalia.it info@gelatitalia.it GELDUE Tel. (+39) 51 6132910 www.geldue.it info@geldue.it GRANULATI ITALIA Tel. (+39) 35 4824335 www.comeiltiramisu.com info@comeiltiramisu.com I-CONICA Tel. (+39) 55 3870097 www.i-conica.it commerciale@microandi.it ICAM Tel. (+39) 31 6346101 www.icamprofessionale.com info@icamprofessionale.it 24
ICETEAM 1927 Tel. (+39) 51 6505330 www.iceteam1927.it info@iceteam1927.it IMBALLAGGI ALIMENTARI Tel. (+39) 577 660353 www.imballaggialimentari.it info@imballaggialimentari.it ISA Tel. (+39) 75 80171 www.isaitaly.com customerservice@isaitaly.com ITAL DIARY Tel. (+971) 547043074 www.italdairy.com info@italdairy.com ITALPROGET Tel. (+39) 75 987038 www.italproget.it info@italproget.it LEAGEL Tel. (+378) 549 999435 www.leagel.com info@leagel.com LINEA DORI 3000 Tel. (+39) 6 65671626 www.lineadori.com info@lineadori.com MARTINI GELATO - UNIGRÀ Tel. (+39) 545 989511 www.martiniprofessional.it info@martiniprofessional.it MEC3 Tel. (+39) 541 859411 www.mec3.com mec3@mec3.it MEDAC Tel. (+39) 89 301466 www.medac.it info@medac.it MONTEBIANCO DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.montebiancogelato.com info@montebiancogelato.com NUTMAN GROUP Tel. (+39) 141 835225 www.nutman-group.com info@nutman-group.com ORG. VITTORIO CASELLI TEL. (+39) 55 284292 www.caselli.it caselliorg@caselli.it PREGEL Tel. (+39) 522 394211 www.pregel.com info@pregel.it STELLA DISARONNO INGREDIENTS Tel. (+39) 444 333600 www.prodottistella.com info@prodottistella.com TADDIA Tel. (+39) 51 944973 www.taddia.com info@taddia.com TORRONALBA Tel. (+39) 173 361140 www.torronalba.com torronalba@torronalba.com UNIGEL Tel. (+39) 35 883154 www.unigelitalia.com info@unigelitalia.com IN PARTNERSHIP WITH 26
photos by Foto Max-Mattia Serratore INTERVIEW By Federica Serva the President of the Gelato World Cup Giancarlo Timballo 28
In Rimini, during Sigep, the tenth edition of the Gelato World Cup will be held. What new features will distinguish this competition? The event’s organization has been conducted in the name of maximum transparency to ensure fairness and professionalism. Several new features are planned. The first is the internationalization of the organizational chart by including two high-level jury presidents: Martino Piccolo, who has gained extensive experience in Australia, and Kenny Kong, who organized the Gelato World Cup selection rounds in Singapore. Marco Miquel Sirvent from Spain and Emmanuel Ryon from France will join the two competition regulators Sergio Dondoli and Sergio Colalucci. In addition, the group of Guarantors will involve highly experienced gelato chefs from different nationalities: five Italians For twenty years, he has presided with dedication over the organization of the prestigious international competition, constantly elevating an excellent Made in Italy product. (Cinzia Otri, Osvaldo Palermo, Biagio Settepani, Marco Venturino, Luigi Tirabassi), one Argentine (Maximiliano Cèsar Maccarrone) and one Chinese (Louie Ye). Another important new development is the international technical jury that will work alongside the jury of team managers. It is a team made up of five members from the World Association of Chefs’ Societies (Worldchefs), that is, Carlo Sauber, Ljubica Komlenic, Gilles Renusson, Ann Brown, Brendan Hill. I would also like to say that a code of ethics has been added to the technical regulations for the teams in the name of fair play, with the goal to bring back the original spirit with which the competition was born and that has somewhat been lost. Today, the teams arrive very fierce and determined to win, while in the past the aim of the competition was to spread the knowledge of artisanal gelato, to strengthen relationships between countries and to establish professional contacts that have often resulted in true friendships. 29
INTERVIEW Looking back to 2003 when the competition was born, how has its organization changed today? And how has the artisanal gelato industry changed in Italy? As I said, the playful mood of the first editions has been waning. A more professional-level and competitive spirit has taken over both as an evolution of our society, as well as in the preparation for the competition and in the interest of sponsor companies. The event’s organization started changing with the increase of trials, such as the culinary gelato trial. About ten years ago, that type of gelato preparation was in its infancy, and it has seen an interesting progression. The addition of a chef de cuisine in the teams represented a sort of clo30
Timballo’s gelato shop sure of the circle, in the sense that it completed the composition of professionalism in the wake of kitchen brigades of the past centuries, where cooks, pastry chefs, chocolatiers and decorators all worked. By training and competing together, it is possible to learn from each other. Ideas and advice can be exchanged. The gelato chef today cannot limit himself to scooping balls onto a cone. He has to have a broader professionalism that touches on cold pastries, desserts, chocolate. When the Gelato World Cup was born, this need was not yet felt, and this event has helped fulfil it. The competition plays an important role as a trailblazer of trends. Looking abroad, in these twenty years of the World Cup, in which countries has the attention to gelato grown the most? One of the first destinations of the selections abroad was Buenos Aires, where the Italian tradition of artisanal gelato is very much alive. There are numerous gelato shops managed by our fellow compatriots who immigrated there in the early 1900s. Just as it happens here, traditions are influenced by local habits, giving life to original flavours such as Dulce de leche. If in South America, Argentina is the number one country for the success and level of gelato shops, in Brazil, Peru and Uruguay, the number of businesses and the level of the gelato chefs’ preparation is growing. Personally, I have received a consultancy request from Chile, a sign of interest in gelato also in this country. The World Cup has also opened up to the Far East, as demonstrated by the participation of South Korea, Singapore and Taiwan in this year’s edition. I was surprised by China. I could not have imagined such skill in the creation of gelato. The number of professionals is limited, but their preparation is truly noteworthy because they work hard, study and leave nothing to chance. For years now Japan has shown to be a top-ranking country for desserts with pastry and gelato shops with a high level of professionalism. It should be emphasized that the development of gelato abroad would not have been possible without the entire industry which exports machines, display cases, ingredients. In this sense, the sponsor companies of the World Cup make a fundamental contribution not only to the competition, but to the entire industry. 31
INTERVIEW Are the values of yesterday, which brought this event to life, that is growth of the gelato artisan as a profession, research and sharing of traditions, motivation for new generations, still present? Or have they changed over time? These values have remained over time, and they continue to inspire the organization of the Gelato World Cup. We have worked to spread the culture of gelato without commercial interests, maintaining an open and transparent position. Our interest is to support the tradition of true Italian-style artisanal gelato. What does it mean for a professional to participate in this competition? What does it contribute to their career? Participating in this competition as a professional is very important. It represents an occasion to further their know-how. It opens their world to other aspects of sweets and the intertwined relationships with their peers. Lastly, if communication is well 32
managed, it can be a springboard for a career. I recall the 2006 edition. The team consisted of Sergio Colalucci, Beppo Tonon, Roberto Rinaldini, who became stars in their fields. In 2012, Ernst Knam, unknown at the time, was a member of the team, and he has since become the “King of chocolate”. Let me be clear, participation requires significant personal investment in that an intense training program is necessary to try and try again the recipes for each work that will be presented at the grand finale in Rimini. The last fifteen days of preparation are crucial for concentration and for stress management. In these twenty years as President of the Gelato World Cup, is there an anecdote that you are particularly fond of? One episode is particularly engrained into my memory. In 2006, the Czech Republic was competing, which trained for some time in Udine since it was the first time it was participating. The team manager was a well-known pastry chef, of a certain age, with whom I have developed a great friendship. When he arrived at the competition, he showed up with a jacket full of medals! A relic from the Communist regime in Czechoslovakia. What is the future for the Gelato World Cup? “As for tomorrow, nothing is certain” wrote Lorenzo de Medici. We are working to give a future to this initiative even if Sergio Colalucci and Sergio Dondoli, who join me as Vice Presidents, and I are starting to reach a certain age. We are looking for partners willing to work as we did in 2003, on a voluntary basis for the organization of the competition. We have dedicated, or rather sacrificed, many hours of our jobs and of our personal time for meetings, events, selection rounds. I believe, despite everything, in the younger generations and in the possibility of finding someone who will join us. We have made an agreement with Conpait, the Italian Pastry Chef Federation (Confederazione Pasticcieri Italiani) in 2022, and in 2024 we started our partnership with Worldchefs, World Association of Chefs’ Societies. We move forward strongly with our contract with Sigep for the organization of the event, and with new developments towards internationalization to execute an event for the entire world of gelato. 33
RECIPES FROM UNUSUAL By Giancarlo Timballo photo by FOTO MAX-Mattia Serratore 34
TO CLASSIC CREAM INGREDIENTS: • whole cow’s milk 634 g • anhydrous butter 90 g • nonfat dry milk 50 g • sugar 130 g • dextrose 70 g • pasteurized egg yolks 20 g • stabilizer for creams 6 g • star anise, cinnamon, cardamom INSTRUCTIONS Prepare the base. Place the three spices in the pasteurizer’s infusion chamber. SAUCE INGREDIENTS: • prunes, dates, dried figs, raisins 2000 g • sugar 500 g • glucose 43 DE 500 g • water 500 g • orange distillate 100 g INSTRUCTIONS Cut the fruit (2,000 g in equal parts) into small pieces. Blanch in water to remove any impurities. Cook the fruit in the syrup prepared from the sucrose, dextrose 43 DE, and water. When it comes to a boil, add the orange distillate at 70°C. Simmer and then cool. Layer the sauce in the gelato as it comes out of the batch freezer. Spiced gelato Two creations by Giancarlo Timballo, one featuring unusual spices, the other more traditional with all the sweetness of berries. 35
RECIPES 36
NEW NEUTRAL CHEESECAKE SEMIFREDDO INGREDIENTS: • fresh cream 38% fat 333 g • mascarpone 166 g • whole yogurt 199 g • E330 citric acid 2 g • Italian meringue 149 g • 70% extra fruit syrup base 149 g • Cristal thickener 3/5 GR/KG 2 g FRUIT JELLY INGREDIENTS: • berry pulp 759 g • inverted sugar 152 g • trehalose 76 g • isinglass 11 g • E330 citric acid 2 g ASSEMBLY Spread 2/3 of the semifreddo on the gluten-free streusel base. Cool in the blast chiller and top with the berry sauce to the edge of the mould. Berry cheesecake semifreddo 37
by Giancarlo Timballo COMPETITIONS It all started in 2002... 38
Giancarlo Timballo retraces the story of the GelatoWorld Cup which changed the way to create a culture of Italian gelato and how to communicate about it. …“on a night of slight inebriation”, as one of the founders of the Gelato World Cup, Pierpaolo Magni, loves to recall. We were in Turin for the Dolc’è tradeshow together with Pierpaolo, Luciana Polliotti, Alfio Tarateta and Eliseo Tonti and it came to us the idea to organize an event in a European context that would give dignity and importance to Italian-style artisanal gelato. They were years of great excitement. The industry was rebelling against the situation of a levelling-off of professionalism. Standardization was being caused by numerous openings of very commercial gelato shops, and they weren’t always supported by a decent training of the gelato makers. I, too, was one of the new gelato makers coming from another profession. However, I was lucky enough to meet people who donated and instilled in me motivation and advice that were very important for my new career. They planted in me a seed of curiosity and the perception that this job would be a passionate one if carried out in the right way. On this journey, two great trainers helped me: the unforgettable Carlo Pozzi and Luca Caviezel. 39
COMPETITIONS Turning point However, it still wasn’t enough just to learn how to make our product well. We gelato chefs were still way behind in our communication skills, and we were overwhelming fearful of the other categories of flavour. In the eyes of our clients, we were still just “makers of gelato” (as Carlo Pozzi would amusingly define it), with a cart and a horn. We decided to create an event that could stimulate new generations so that gelato could be elevated to a high professional level. This was one of the cornerstones of our project, which focused on the knowledge of other traditions in the world of gelato and on the sharing of cultures from different countries. The management team takes shape Characters such as Gabriel Paillasson, Iginio Massari, Emilia Chiriotti helped us take our first big steps. They gave us precious and authoritative advice, in addition to the aforementioned Luca Caviezel and Carlo Pozzi, authentic interpreters of the Italian-style artisanal gelato’s new journey. Three distinguished Italian gelato chefs joined our organizing group, Mauro Petrini, Sergio Dondoli and Sergio Colalucci. Other very important personalities supported us in running the project: Paola Franz, Barbara Campana, Claudia Santoro and Alessandra Pacini. A true team of professionals created the management group, all animated by a desire to strengthen the pulse of communicating about Italian-style artisanal gelato. With them, a great friendship was born. Together with them, I realized that the true values of life are not just professional successes, but so much so are also sharing and reciprocal help. Without them, the Gelato World Cup would have never made it to the level it is today. 40
Lots of support I would also like to mention some people who have helped us in an important way, such as the Argentine journalist Ana Galibert, who ensured the presence of the Argentine and Brazilian teams, and Franco Cesare Puglisi, who believed in our project from the beginning, becoming together with Livia Chiriotti media partners of the Cup with their respective magazines. On competition days, many professionals worked with us as assistants, including Mentore Valandro and Enzo Copetti. I would like to remember the many students from the technical institutes and their companions, who gave a sense of professionalism throughout the event. They supported serving, welcoming and helping in the kitchen, where the legendary Stefano Buttazzoni has delighted us, for many editions, with his typical dishes of Friulian cuisine. In the latest editions, we have counted more than a hundred collaborators active on the competition floor, coordinated by the incessant work of the management and the irreplaceable Spiridione Ripaldi. Complete teams A special thanks goes to the numerous teams that have succeeded each other in the previous nine editions, made up of great professionals from the world of food. They put themselves on the line by demonstrating seriousness and dedication to the project. I would also like to thank all the companies in the industry that have accompanied us with their valuable contribution, believing in the value of our proposal. With the passing of each edition, we have also aimed to expand the circle of members forming each team, which by adding chefs de cuisine and ice sculptors now contain all the various crafts of flavour. In this way, the professional exchange within the teams is ensured at 360 degrees and the results are increasingly of the utmost level. This is how we came to launch the high fashion of artisanal gelato all over the world, stimulating and launching new flavours and new ways of serving gelato. 41
COMPETITIONS IEG’s role None of this could have happened without the contribution and support of the various managers of IEG-Italian Exhibition Group who worked with our management team, starting with Mariarosa Bettini, Angela Bellavista, Patrizia Cecchi, Giorgia Maioli and Gabriella De Girolamo, Flavia Morelli, up to Valentina Sorgente, Vanessa Rinaldini together with the Sigep team, to the historical technicians of the tradeshows, Walter Fabbri, Andrea Silvagni and the entire IEG Operation team. The real proponent of the Gelato World Cup’s success was the late president of IEG, Lorenzo Cagnoni, a person of great moral and professional depth. He was the first to believe in the project and encouraged us with foresight to continue in the name of awareness of our work. Ours was not a real acquaintance, but every time I was lucky enough to meet him, he gave me the impression of dealing with a wise, honest, very valuable person with an enviable intellectual honesty. Ready to go We have arrived at the 10th edition without realizing that twenty years have passed. So much has occurred as we have constantly tried to always do our best. In planning this edition, we decided to give more impetus to collaborations with the various associations in our industry and in the world of pastry and cuisine with an international perspective, including prestigious names in the world of gelato and pastry 42
such as: Massimiliano Maccarrone, president of Afadhya in Argentina; Marco Miquel Sirvent, president of Anhcea Asociación Nacional de Heladeros Artesanos; Emanuel Rjon, a prestigious member of the French gelato artisan’s union CNGF; Angelo Musolino, president of Conpait; the World Association of Chefs’ Societies; Sal De Riso, president of Ampi, Beppo Tonon, several times team manager of the Italian team and president of the presentation jury. The search for collaboration will continue. I want to mention again the company DRG Comunicazione, which manages our press office, as well as the new entry of Francesca Brianese into the secretariat, because we believe it is essential to work as a team, support each other and learn from everyone. Finally, I would like to mention the constant, reassuring and professional presence of Eleonora Cozzella, who has impeccably conducted the last editions. This is the path we want to take, together with many actors from the various professions of flavour, certain that it is possible to give impetus to the Italian tradition of cuisine and fine living. 43
RECIPES BEPPO TONON His professional career began in 1967, when he moved to Germany to work in a gelato shop. When he moved back to Italy, he opened his own shop and he started his research in the world of fruit and vegetable carving. He placed first in Gelato Sundae competitions held in Longarone (Italy) in 1996, Alicante (Spain) in 1998 and Erfurt (Germany) in 2004. In 2006, he won the Gelato World Cup held during Sigep in Rimini, as a captain of the Italian team that he was also a member of. He participates in TV shows, teaches fruit and vegetable carving techniques at professional schools and is the author of multiple books on the subject. He also writes for various industry magazines. He currently lives in Oderzo (Treviso), where he manages “Cà Lozzio”, a gelato shop-restaurant that is also a cultural and artistic centre. Sioux cup Gala apples, with their intense red smooth and waxy skin are ideal for this preparation. Plus, they have a pleasant and sweet flavour, with a fulfilling and crunchy pulp. With a sharp knife, cut the apples lengthwise, then with a small carving knife make a few longitudinal cuts. Thinly slice the apple. Delicately handling the fruit with utmost care as to not damage it, divide the slices into small groups. Hold each group of slices with your left hand, and with the help of your right hand, spread them out as if they were a deck of poker cards. Wash a large and not too ripe strawberry, then remove the leaves. Place leaf-side down on a cutting board. Make several parallel cuts with a smooth knife making sure to not cut all the way through. Rotate the fruit 90° and repeat the parallel slices. Place the strawberry in the middle of a flower corolla made with orange peels; the petals are created by using an incision knife starting with cutting through the fruit to remove the pulp. With a smooth knife, create a crown of deep incisions, making a series of elongated petals, being careful not to break them. Suggestion. The suggested gelato flavours are fruit ones with dull colours, so that the decorative flower will stand out. We are dedicating our recipe feature to creations made by some of the Maestros who have risen to the highest step of the podium during the past editions of the Gelato World Cup. These trendy proposals are to be admired (and enjoyed) for their skilful originality. THE CREATIVITY OF CHAMPIONS 44
Photo by Studio Phototecnica 45
RECIPES SERGIO COLALUCCI After having assisted his father, a gelato chef, in the family business, in 1990 he took over the management together with his brother. He started his journey with maestro Luca Caviezel and over the years he developed a purely technical experience by attending numerous highly specialized courses and by studying subjects related to the art of gelato, such as food science and nutrition. In 2004, he placed third at the “Gelato in Tavola” competition and in 2006, he won together with his team the Gelato World Cup at Sigep Rimini. His production kitchen is the backdrop for continuous experimentation, which searches for unique flavours, aromas and flavour pairings. 46
COMPOSITION • Cooked rice • Saffron gelato Decorations • Sugar flower • Saffron threads • Grains of cooked rice COOKED RICE INGREDIENTS: • whole milk 225 g • Roma rice 77 g • sucrose 102 g • white glaze 50 g INSTRUCTIONS Cook the rice in the milk until you obtain a rice cream, being careful to not overcook it. SAFFRON GELATO INGREDIENTS: • whole milk 255 g • cream 146 g • skim milk powder 64 g • dextrose 20 g • neutro for creams 3 g • saffron paste ste. 77 g • cooked rice 434 g Revelations INSTRUCTIONS Pasteurize all ingredients at 85° then add the rice. Batch freeze. SUGAR FLOWER INGREDIENTS: • Isomalt sugar 200 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat to 180° then proceed with the pulled sugar technique. SAFFRON THREADS INSTRUCTIONS Place them on top of the gelato next to the flower. PREPARATION Batch freeze the Saffron Gelato. While extracting, variegate with Cooked Rice and a few Saffron Threads. Smooth out the gelato in a previously chilled pan and cool quickly. Decorate with Sugar Flower, Saffron Threads and Grains of Cooked Rice. 47
RECIPES ERNST KNAM Born in Germany, after many years spent in the most prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants of the world, he made it to Italy and entered Gualtiero Marchesi’s kitchen as Head Pastry chef. In 1992, he opened his famous pastry shop in Milan. His creations stand out for their elegance, for their uncommon flavour pairings and for the use of seasonal ingredients. They are often the result of influences and mixtures with the world of design, fashion, architecture and art. He has collaborated with several designers, including Lorenzo Palmeri, with whom he designed Home, a chocolate praline dedicated to Expo 2015. A familiar face on TV, he has received various international recognitions, including first place in the pastry category at Toque d’Or in Lucerne in 1988 and 1990, Best Pastry Chef in Italy in 2004 at Brussels. He was proclaimed as the Italian Chocolate Champion 2009/2010, Italian Champion of Finger Food in 2011, and World Champion at the Gelato World Cup in 2012 as captain of the Italian team and as the chocolate sculptor. 48
COMPOSITION • Multigrain sponge cake • Syrup • Pineapple, mango and pink pepper petals gelatine • Yogurt Mousse MULTIGRAIN SPONGE CAKE INGREDIENTS: • powdered sugar 75 g • toasted pine nuts 50 g • egg yolks 150 g • orange blossom honey 65 g • yogurt 110 g • muesli 45 g • egg whites 220 g • sugar 45 g • flour 85 g • whole wheat flour 85 g • baking powder 10 g • raisins 45 g • walnut pieces 45 g INSTRUCTIONS Whip egg yolks with powdered sugar. In a separate bowl, whip egg whites with sugar. In another bowl, mix muesli, yogurt and honey. In another bowl, mix toasted pine nuts, walnut pieces, raisins, flour, whole wheat flour and baking powder. Add 1/3 of the whipped egg whites to the whipped yolks; add the rest of the egg whites and continue to delicately mix. Add the mixture to the muesli, yogurt and honey mixture, then to the mixture of dry ingredients. Mix well. Pour the final mixture (about 150 g) into 16 cm diameter moulds. Bake at 180°C for about 20 minutes. SYRUP INGREDIENTS: • lemon blossom honey 250 g • water 300 g • glucose 50 g INSTRUCTIONS Bring the ingredients to a boil then let cool to 50°C. The field PINEAPPLE, MANGO AND PINK PEPPER PETALS GELATINE INGREDIENTS: • passion fruit juice 250 g • cubed pineapple 250 g • cubed mango 250 g • sugar 50 g • agar agar 3 g • pink pepper petals 5 g INSTRUCTIONS In a saucepan, bring the passion fruit juice to a boil. Add the sugar and agar agar and melt. Add cubed mango, cubed pineapple and pink pepper petals to the passion fruit juice. Pour the gelatine into a mould with a 14 cm diameter. YOGURT MOUSSE INGREDIENTS • yogurt 600 g • inverted sugar 80 g • isinglass 15 g • slightly whipped cream 600 g • tempered milk chocolate 150 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat the inverted sugar with the yogurt. Rehydrate the isinglass in cold water, then squeeze the water out of it and add it to the yogurt. Whisk all the ingredients together. Add pieces of tempered chocolate and mix together to create a stracciatella. ASSEMBLY Wet sponge cake with honey syrup. Compose cake by pouring the yogurt mousse into the mould with the sponge cake. Add the gelatine insert, and top with another layer of mousse. Decorate with a green glaze and white glucose to create a spiderweb effect. Finish decorating by placing a few daisies made with sugar paste. 49
RECIPES DIEGO CROSARA He comes from a family of pastry chefs, who instilled in him a passion for this noble art already at a young age. After several years, he decided to abandon the pastry kitchen to dedicate himself to his greatest passion: consultancy and teaching. He has been present at the most well-known pastry competitions. In 2006, he won the Culinary Cup in Luxembourg and the title of World Pastry Champion. In 2010, he won the silver medal at the WPTC Worldwide Pastry competition, competing as the captain of the Italian National Pastry team. Two years later, his experiences as a coach for the Women’s Pastry Queen International Championship and for the Gelato World Cup proclaimed him as a World Champion. In 2016, he was the winner of the Gelato World Cup. He is an author of several books, and in 2012, hewon the “Best Italian Book” award at the Gourmand World Cookbook Award in Paris with his volume titled “Mignon”. 50
Amounts for 60 3x3 cm cubes COMPOSITION • Soft savoury biscuit • Salmon bavarois • Tomato gelatine SOFT SAVOURY BISCUIT INGREDIENTS: • egg yolks 150 g • egg whites 230 g • sugar 40 g • salt 15 g • flour 130 g • potato starch 50 g INSTRUCTIONS In a stand mixer, whip the egg whites together with the sugar and salt. When the whites are almost fully whipped, slowly pour in the egg yolks, slowing down the mixing speed; using a spatula, carefully add the flours that have been previously sifted. On a silpat silicon baking sheet, roll out the dough to a 4 mm thickness and bake at 240°C for 5 minutes. Remove from oven and place immediately in the blast chiller. SALMON BAVAROIS INGREDIENTS: • fresh salmon 700 g • white or red Tropea onions 100 g • olive oil 100 g • tomato paste 15 g • fresh whole milk 200 g • isinglass sheets 20 g • slightly whipped cream 500 g • cubed smoked salmon 200 g INSTRUCTIONS Sauté onions in olive oil. Add the salmon and season with salt and pepper. Then add the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes; add milk, heat until boiling, then blend. Add previously rehydrated gelatine then strain; cool to 30°C. Add cubed smoked salmon and lighten the mixture with the slightly whipped cream. Salmon and tomato cube TOMATO GELATINE INGREDIENTS: • tomato puree 500 g • isinglass sheets 15 g • dry oregano 1 g • salt and pepper to taste INSTRUCTIONS Blend the tomato pulp with the salt and pepper. Season with oregano and add the animal-original gelatine that has been previously rehydrated and dissolved in a small amount of tomato pulp that was heated in the microwave. Pour into half-sphere-shaped silicon moulds and blast freeze at a frozen temperature. ASSEMBLY Place the cookie on the bottom of a squareshaped mould then pour on the bavarois and blast chill. Cut into cubes. Remove tomato gelatine from mould and place a half-sphere on every cube. Consume at +10°C. 51
RECIPES Photo by Matteo Lonati 52
INGREDIENTS • water 528 g • rice malt 220 g • cocoa mass 140 g • fibre 70 g • cocoa 22-24 40 g • carob seed powder 2 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat water to 70°C. Mix together all solid ingredients (except cocoa mass) then add them to the water, mixing thoroughly. Heat to 85°C. Chop up the mass then pour the water onto it in three stages, emulsifying according to the technique described in “Emulsion”. Batch freeze. While extracting, swirl in almond crumble and raspberry sauce. Emulsion Pour one third of the liquid at a temperature of 85°C onto the chopped mass. Wait a few seconds, then with a silicon spatula mix with fast and circle movements starting from the centre. Mix until the mixture is uniform and shiny. Add another third of the liquid and repeat. Lastly, add the last third, then repeat again. Blend with mixer. The optimal service temperature is -10°C/-12°C. Store at -15°C. Delicate chocolate EUGENIO MORRONE He began his professional experience in an artisanal workshop in Calabria (Italy). In 2004, he moved to Rome and a few years later he opened his own business, “Il Cannolo Siciliano”. He has always combined working in the production kitchen with an in-depth study of theory and technique. With these two aspects, his goal was to directly apply the principles he learned. He also teaches and offers technical consultancy. He recently opened a new business, “Fiordiluna il Gelato”, also in Rome. He has won prestigious contests such as the Gelato Festival Rome - European Champion in 2016, the excellence award at the Sigep in Rimini in 2017 and the Gelato Festival All Star in 2018. In the same year, he was crowned Master Gelato Maker of the Year - Reader Award, Food and Travel Magazine, and his shop was proclaimed Best Gelato Shop in Italy by Gastronauta and Best Gelato Shop by Gambero Rosso - Foreign Press. In 2019, he won the Sigep Gelato D’Oro and in 2020, he climbed to the highest step of the podium at the Gelato World Cup. In 2022, he was inducted into the Gelato Festival World Ranking Hall of Fame. image by freepik 53
RECIPES Millefoglie MASSIMO CARNIO He grew up in a family of pastry chefs and learned the secrets of the trade from his father and grandfather. Since 2000, he has been running his pastry shop and café “Villa dei Cedri” in Valdobbiadene (Treviso, Italy). For several years, he has specialized in artistic pieces by learning the art of the best master chocolatiers in the world, uniting elegance with simplicity. His first success came in 2013, when he won the Coppa d’Oro, chocolatiers category, which allowed him to participate in the Gelato World Cup 2014 as the maestro chocolatier of the Italian team, which earned the silver medal. The following year, he obtained the title of Italian chocolate champion in the Cacao Barry World Chocolate Master. This important success allowed him to represent Italy at the world competition, arriving among the top five finalists at the 2015 Paris Chocolate Show. On this occasion, with his dessert “Triumph of Raspberries and Chocolate”, he won the award for Best Dessert in the World. In 2020, he climbed to the top step of the podium by winning the Gelato World Cup at Sigep. Photo by Mauro De Rocco - Mauro Milan 54
COMPOSITION • Caramelized inverted puff pastry • Gianduja chocolate chips • Diplomat cream CARAMELIZED INVERTED PUFF PASTRY Panetto INGREDIENTS: • flour 500 g • “sfoglia” pastry flour 100 g Pastello INGREDIENTS: • butter 120 g • “sfoglia” pastry flour 600 g • milk powder 25 g • water 200 g • white Vermouth 50 g • salt 10 g • powdered sugar as needed INSTRUCTIONS In a stand mixer equipped with the hook attachment, knead the “panetto”. Once the butter and the flour are combined, stop the mixer and form the dough into a well-shaped rectangle. Store in the refrigerator. Then, knead the “pastello”. Place all the ingredients in a stand mixer equipped with the hook attachment and run the mixer until an elastic dough is obtained. Form into a square and let rest in the refrigerator, covering the “pastello” with a plastic sheet. With the help of a dough sheeter, roll out the “panetto” so that it can completely envelop the “pastello”. Then position the “pastello” in the centre and cover it by folding the sides towards the centre. Laminate the first two folds consisting of 3 and 4 folds, then let rest in the refrigerator until it reaches the ideal cooled temperature to roll out the puff pastry. Laminate again with two more folds, one with 3 folds and another with 4. Let cool in the refrigerator again. Laminate the puff pastry dough to a thickness of 1,5 mm, then cut it into 3 cm strips. Wrap the puff pastry dough strips around steel rings with a diameter of 20, 14 and 8 cm, then insert other rings with a diameter of 22, 16 and 10 cm. Position the rings on perforated baking trays. Bake at 175°C for 25 minutes with the valve closed. Once they are baked and cooled, remove from the rings and cover with powdered sugar. Caramelize in the oven heated to 220°C for two minutes with the valve closed. Bake circles of dough to make 22 cm diameter disks to place on the bottom. GIANDUJA CHOCOLATE CHIPS Hazelnut paste à l’ancienne INGREDIENTS: • raw hazelnuts 200 g • powdered sugar 200 g • vanilla bean 1 INSTRUCTIONS Toast the hazelnuts in a 150°C oven for 25 minutes. In a bowl, mix the powdered sugar with the vanilla seeds and toasted hazelnuts. Spread out onto baking trays lined with baking paper, then bake at 180°C until it caramelizes. Let cool then chop until a coarse puree is obtained. Chocolate chips INGREDIENTS: • Cuba 70% dark chocolate 500 g • hazelnut paste à l’ancienne 150 g INSTRUCTIONS Temper the dark chocolate then add the hazelnut paste. Spread out onto silicon mats. Once cooled, cut into small pieces. DIPLOMATIC CREAM INGREDIENTS • fresh liquid cream 500 g • fresh milk 500 g • sweetened egg yolk 600 g • granulated sugar 100 g • rice starch 100 g • whipped fresh cream 500 g • gianduja chocolate chips 650 g • gelatine powder 15 g • vanilla bean 2 INSTRUCTIONS In a saucepan, bring the liquid cream and milk to a boil. In a pot, whisk the egg yolk with the sugar. Add the vanilla seeds and previously sifted rice starch. Slowly pour the milk and cream onto the egg yolks while continuing to whisk. Finish cooking without exceeding 85°C, then add the gelatine. Immediately blast chill after covering with plastic wrap. Once the cream is cooled, pour it into the standmixer equippedwith the paddle attachment, then at a slow speed mix for a few minutes. Lastly, gradually fold in the whipped cream and gianduja chocolate chips. FINISHING Position the three puff pastry rings on top of a disk of puff pastry. Centre them well so that you have the same distance from each other along the entire diameter. Using a pastry bag, evenly fill the rings with the stracciatella diplomat cream. Lastly, decorate the top of the cake with chocolate leaves, using the same ones for the artistic piece. Wrap the perimeter of the cake with a 4-cm-high band of white chocolate with gold spots. 55
By Davide Pini FAIRS TOUR INTERNATIONAL PIZZA EXPO & CONFERENCE Las Vegas, USA, March 28-30 Las Vegas is a city that needs no introduction. A glittering oasis rising out of the Nevada desert, it is synonymous with gambling, glitz, and glamor. Its vibrant nightlife, countless casinos, and endless entertainment options make it a popular destination for thrill seekers. When it comes to food, pizza remains a local favourite, with hundreds of establishments offering a myriad of versions. No wonder, then, that it is here that one of the most widely attended events dedicated A chronicle of the trade fairs visited by puntoItaly during its travels abroad. A first-hand reportage of meetings, emotions, and experiences. puntoItaly wire to this culinary specialty is held every year. More than 9,000 buyers from around the world were registered at the 39th International Pizza Expo, interested in getting a preview of new trends in ingredients, equipment, and services. The trade show has also always been an opportunity to engage with big names in the industry, such as Tony Gemignani, winner of 13 world titles in pizza making. The World Pizza Games featured more than 130 participants, who competed in spectacular acrobatic displays. The 40th edition is scheduled for March 19-21, 2024. 56
HOST Milan, Italy, October 13-17 As soon as you walk through the HostMilano turnstiles you immediately sense an atmosphere of open internationality. Top players in professional hospitality, out-of-home, and food retail come here from all over the world. And here you can preview many of the latest developments that have not yet been officially launched on the market. More than 180 thousand visitors attended the 43rd edition of the trade show. Of these, more than 42% were from 166 countries. Innovation for HostMilano is also synonymous with training and professional development. There were more than 800 scheduled events. In its first edition, Chocolate Culture provided a space dedicated to chocolate culture with the aim of highlighting Italian master artisans and their specialties. Maestro chocolatier Davide Comaschi and his team of experts delved into different aspects of the food – from science to culture and business – with the masters of ALMA and the Chocolate Academy in Milan. During the event they talked about chocolate in the gelato shop and how this ingredient is the key to expanding sales throughout the year and more. Franco Cesare Puglisi, publisher of puntoItaly, focused on the quality of the product range and professionalism of the service as key elements for growth. “Gelato shops could educate customers about quality chocolate by holding free tasting sessions in their stores, also to increase gelato sales year round,” said Puglisi, who concluded with a quote from Benjamin Franklin: “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.” Also making its debut was the World Panettone Championship organized by the Academy of Masters of Sourdough Starter and Italian Panettone, which saw the Italian team victorious. The spotlight was also turned on the gelato-pastry world with the return of luxury pastries of the world curated by Iginio Massari, who focused on current trends. The World Trophy of Pastry Gelato and Chocolate went to France, while Poland won the Cake Designers World Championship. The World Trophy of Professional Tiramisu was awarded to China, followed by Italy and France. Design was the focus of the Smart Label - Host Innovation Award, a prestigious recognition of sustainable innovation that saw 26 products awarded out of a total of 157 entries received from all over the planet. The 44th edition of HostMilano is scheduled to be held on October 17-21, 2025. 57
FAIRS TOUR FOOD & HOSPITALITY CHINA Shanghai, China, November 8-10 The return to China in November 2023 should be seen as the most concrete sign of the beginning of a new cycle for our magazine, which during the pandemic had to deal with the difficulties that impacted all companies that conduct business abroad. China actually closed its borders for a few years, at least in terms of willingness to host foreign businesses at its events, and even the 2023 edition saw fewer Europeans than usual. This made our presence even more significant, the event seeing more than 150,000 visitors to the 200,000 square meters of exhibition space, with more than 50 nations hosted. The event was held within the Shanghai Sinoexpo under the guidance of Informa Market International Exhibition Co. and organizations such as the Shanghai Cuisine Association, China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Foodstuffs, Native Produce and Animal By-Products to name the most influential. Once again, the many topical exhibition areas were enriched by interesting forums, confirming the event’s desire to broaden the sectors involved. 58
MONTE-CARLO GASTRONOMIE Principality of Monaco, November 24-27 Wandering around the booths at the Monaco event, we breathed in an air of pleasant conviviality. About 100 companies specialized in gastronomic products from France, Italy, and other parts of Europe presented their fine foods in an area measuring about 2,500 square meters, offering tasting and shopping opportunities. The showcased products, all carefully selected, stood out for their authentic flavours: wines, champagnes, cognacs, armagnacs, and liqueurs from the producers’ estates, as well as salmon, foie gras, seafood, truffles, caviar, chocolates, sweets, cheeses, cured meats, organic products, jams, and much more. A prominent place was also reserved for table and kitchen accessories. The event was supported by an array of associations, including Monaco Goût et Saveurs, the Association of Italian and French Maîtres d’Hôtel, the Monegasque Sommelier Association, the Riviera Côte d’Azur Slow Food Association, and the Monegasque Hotel Industry Association. A large number of cooking enthusiasts took part in the fifth edition of the Maestro Chef competition. Contestants were judged on creativity, presentation, flavour, and ability to reduce waste. 59
FAIRS TOUR MIG Longarone, Italy, November 26-29 The art of combining novel ingredients in gelato is one of the emerging trends in recent years. And the 63rd Mig in Longarone offered many interesting insights to stimulate professionals’ creativity. The Veneto Region’s booth showcased the region’s excellent products, from Polesine white garlic to saffron from the Dolomites, not to mention rice from Verona, Piave and Asiago cheese, and Valpolicella wine. The “Gold of the Dolomites” flavour was presented in a series of cooking shows and demonstrations, made with Bellunese saffron and PDO Dolomite honey, expertly blended with Feltre nuts and 24-karat gold. The recipes of the first finalists of “Gelato for the Olympics” also featured exclusive flavours, the contest having been organized by Mig in anticipation of Milan-Cortina 2026. Fourteen master gelato artisans competed by coming up with a flavour designed with the Olympics in mind. Top finishers included Vanessa Piantari with the “Snow” flavour, Silvia Bianco with “Morello” made with Eraclea nut and goat’s milk, Mauro Crivellaro with “Shades of Green,” and Giovanni Talo and Marco Reato with “On the Slopes.” These five gelato professionals qualified for the grand finale and will compete against the other 60
five finalists to be chosen at Mig 2024. The winner will decide the official flavour of the Olympics. The Gold Cup competition had dark chocolate as its theme. More than 100 gelato artisans competed, offering creations of undisputed quality. First prize went to Alberto Luisotto (Eiscafe Crema Gelato, Gröbenzell, Germany), ahead of Cristiano Antoniazzi (Gelateria Dolce Gelato, Gorizia, Italy) and Antonio Tacco (Huesca, Spain). The best dark chocolate by a young competitor, on the other hand, was made by Sara Gallonetto (Gelateria Gallonetto, Venice, Italy), who won the Under 32 Cup. The flavour of the year that will be featured on the 12th European Artisan Gelato Day next March 24th was also announced at Mig: “Gaufre de Liège,” chosen by Belgium to pay homage to one of its most characteristic and popular desserts. The last Mig also opened its doors to science, hosting a conference organized by CNR on agrifood technologies for Innovation, a dialog between research and companies focused on gelato. 61
TRENDS by Federica Serva image by Freepik 62
“Sugar-free” or “low-sugar.” The trend of consuming desserts and gelato with these characteristics is now a solid reality. The development of products with a low glycemic load has shifted from being an effort targeting a small niche of consumers who for health reasons need to limit their sugar intake to a market demand to satisfy a broader segment of consumers seeking wellness. This is confirmed, for example, by GS1 Italy’s Immagino Observatory (June 2023 edition), which analyzed the sales of nearly 133 thousand FMCG products in Italy. Claims of low sugar, high protein, and lactose-free have also increased sales in volume and not only in value. The characteristics of these products are so important to consumers that they don’t change their purchasing behaviour in supermarkets. Fearless sweetness For reasons of health or wellness, the taste for sweets with reduced or no sugar is growing, as shown by a recent experiment. Recommended dose According to the WHO (World Health Organization), consumption of free sugars should be limited to no more than 10% of daily intake, that is, no more than 50 grams equal to 12 teaspoons. This value does not include so-called intrinsic sugars (i.e., those naturally found in fruits and vegetables) and those found in dairy products (milk and yogurt). Michele Cappiello New recipes The orientation toward “sugar-free” as well as “lactose-free” cakes, cookies, and gelato is also seen in the growth of offerings in the shop windows of bakeries and gelato shops, and therefore in the search for recipes. Recent evidence of this was the presentation of low- or no-sugar desserts at Campus Salute in Naples (Italy) last October. Michele Cappiello of the pastry shop bearing his name in Santa Maria Capua Vetere, Caserta, Ca63
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