CONTENTS Editorial 9 Contributors 11 Ilaria Castellaneta, the new queen of desserts 17 Sweet proportions 22 PuntoItaly wire 26 The formula for success 32 Creativity on stage 36 Snack 42 The spotlight on change 46 Vegan cake 52 Ladies of mixology 54 Boozy popsicles 58 A tradition that always stays alive 62 The Companies 66 The Shows 158 In partnership with 166 22 46 54 58 26 THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 12 - No. 35 - JULY 2023 - € 1.00 7
EDITORIAL THE ITAL IAN MAGAZINE FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS IN GELATO, PASTRY AND TRENDY FOOD-AND-DRINK Year 12 - No. 35 - JULY 2023 - € 1.00 The world keeps spinning, even with endless problems and struggles; nonetheless, it is business as usual. Very high inflation, questionable monetary decisions with continuous increases in the price of money, situations of war, unstable geopolitical circumstances. And yet, tourism is growing strongly. Italy in particular has overwhelmingly returned to the top of the list of destinations chosen by vacationers, thanks to its artistic treasures, its marvellous cities, its “good food”. Thus, Made-in-Italy food products are also desired throughout the world. The numbers reflect this and all the international events where Italy appears transform into a success. As it has happened in the past, in this issue of puntoItaly we have decided to focus on content where women are the protagonists. Some will comment that these gender distinctions are obsolete and outdated. However, we believe it is beneficial and relevant to place on the international stage the best of our female figures who work in the pastry and gelato arts. First of all, the Pastry Queen 2023 Ilaria Castellaneta, to whom we dedicate our cover and opening article of this issue. She is followed by many suggestions and ideas from other qualified female professionals in the Italian artisanal confectionery industry. Happy reading to all! For everything else, we will see you at the international tradeshows as usual or online at www.puntoitaly.org. Despite everything… 9
CONTRIBUTORS Barbara Bettera Master gelato chef Ilaria Castellaneta Master pastry chef Alessandra Poni Reporter Alice Vignoli Master gelato maker Lorenza Rizzi Master pastry chef Federica Boldetti Master pastry chef Federica Serva Reporter puntoITALY Milan – Tribunal Registration no. 444 of 03-08-2011 Three-monthly magazine - € 1.00 Year 11 - No. 35 - July 2023 Publishing Director Franco Cesare Puglisi Editor Manuela Rossi Editorial Staff Anna Fraschini Production Manager Gora Di Benedetto Public Relations Manager Davide Pini Advertising Manager Paolo Barretta Advertising Patrizia Dal Mas Translations Laura Duca, Patrick Hopkins Graphic Layout Illustrations ONiDEA adv srl - Milano Editrade srl – Headoffice Via Lomellina 37 - 20133 Milan, I Tel. +39 02 70004960 email: info@editradesrl.it www.puntoitaly.org Printing Pentagraf - Bernate Ticino (Milan, I) All rights reserved. The partial or complete reproduction of texts, illustrations and photos by any means is forbidden. Texts and illustrative material, even if unpublished, is not returned to sender. Texts and photos sent in by readers can be freely published and utilized by puntoItaly. 11
INTERVIEW By Federica Serva How would you define in a few words the pastry chef Ilaria Castellaneta? Creative, passionate and perfectionist. I aim for excellence, and these are fundamental char- acteristics in the pastry arts which I approached while studying at university. It was love at first sight. It won me over and caused me to leave the Liberal Arts School to go on to study ingredients and dessert recipes. The winner of the 2023 Pastry Queen World Championship held in Rimini discusses memories of her preparation, emotions during the competition and her plans for the future, all in light of her great determination. the new queen of desserts Ilaria Castellaneta Image by Studio23 Martina Acanfora Photographer 17
INTERVIEW What did the long preparation and the competition leave you as a legacy? Preparing for a competition of that level involves great commitment and the right attitude. It’s a set of ideas, sleepless nights and a lot of desire to make it happen. My preparation left me with a phrase “Only those who want it win”, a phrase that I repeated to myself many times and that will remain with me for my entire career, because it is true. If you have the constancy to study and work hard… in the end, you will win. I was coached by Eugenio Morrone, who, in addition to being very prepared, is a beautiful human being. When I was feeling down, he was always there to motivate me, to tell me: “don’t worry”. I really found it to be fundamental and helpful. What motivated you to participate in the Pastry Queen World Championship? When I had the opportunity to participate in the selection rounds of the Pastry Queen World Championship, I immediately accepted with enthusiasm. It was an opportunity to challenge myself and my potential, measure my limits and compare myself with other professionals in the industry. When I was chosen to compete in the championship, my enthusiasm and determination skyrocketed, and I was honoured to represent my country. The wait to compete was very long due to the forced pause caused by the pandemic, but that didn’t stop my determination. I was able to push through moments of frustration by thinking about the future. I did not give up and I made it to the finals. 18
What was the most difficult moment of the Championship and the best moment? During the competition, there were many difficult and stressful moments that strained my concentration. The most difficult of all of them, where I still having cold sweats just thinking about it, is when the lamp for sugar broke right when I was assembling the statue. And then, it was very difficult to lift the statue to position it on the table. My hands were shaking. The best moment, which may seem obvious, was the award ceremony: “The winner is Italy!”. I couldn’t believe it; it was an inexpressible emotion. Taking the Italian flag onto the podium was a source of great pride for me. Listening to Mameli’s Hymn from the podium gave me goosebumps. After having lifted the trophy together with my coach Eugenio Morrone, I ran to hug my family, who was there to cheer me on and who really supported me during the time I was preparing for the competition. What are your plans for the future? After the challenge of the World Pastry Queen, since I work in a restaurant, my dream would be to achieve a Michelin star. It will be a very hard and strenuous journey, but I’m ready to work hard and to study thoroughly to make it possible. Pastry arts in the foodservice world can achieve an even greater importance, and I am committed to this goal. Regarding your previous experience as a pastry chef in high-level restaurants, which collaboration has been the most formative? Over the years I have known many working situations, all of which have been formative each in their own way, but the one that taught me the most was my experience at the 1* Michelin restaurant in Lugano (Swiss), Artè al Lago. Working alongside Chef Diego Bertona and Chef FrankOerthlewasanhonour aswell asapleasure.Two great professionals and exceptional human beings. 19
INTERVIEW What features distinguish pastry arts in foodservice? Pastry arts occupy significant space when there is a Michelin star, being that the last course on the menu is the course that you remember most. It would be a shame to have a beautiful dining experience, then to make it to the end with a dessert that is not up to par. Pastry arts in foodservice must present harmony between flavours and balance the ingredients well. All elements must be well proportioned in the dish and their freshness and seasonality should be highlighted. Furthermore, it should aim for its final effect to be a positive turn of events. These characteristics differentiate pastry arts in foodservice from the classic pastry arts. The task of a pastry chef is to not disappoint customer expectations. To succeed in this requires a lot of study, preparation and dedication to work. At an international level, how are Italian cuisine and pastry arts perceived today and what future do you see for them? Everywhere in the world if we talk about Italy, we think of its cuisines and its pastries. The reputation is of excellence, authenticity and sophistication. However, when something becomes so popular, there is a risk of imitations. We must aim to defend Made in Italy products, our local products of excellence, of which Italy is rich. I see the future based on innovation and creativity, but with more consideration for sustainability, health and environmental impact. These issues are becoming increasingly important in the contemporary food world, and I believe that Italian cuisine and pastries will follow this trend, highlighting fresh, seasonal and sustainable ingredients. Women are still a minority at the top of the culinary and pastry worlds. What qualities does a woman have to rely on to succeed in these industries? Women were a minority, it’s true, but the situation is changing. Women are finally establishing themselves in the foodservice industry. The qualities to focus on are the same as their male colleagues: passion, dedica- tion, discipline, commitment. The chef’s hat is one size fits all. It looks good on all heads, without distinction of gender, and the world is noticing that. Reconciling work and family is possible, even for women. 20
What is your favourite dessert recipe? The cold bases such as mousses, semifreddoes and creams are my favourite preparations for many reasons. First, they offer a wide range of textures that make them interesting and pleasant to taste. Then, they lend themselves to being customized because they are dynamic. I can test new pairings and combine flavours and textures, stimulating my creativity. I don’t have a favourite flavour because I am excited more by the texture rather than the taste, which allows me to play with pairings. I am a person who likes to experiment, I have a lot of fun. If you don’t feel like experimenting, if you are not curious, you will not get ahead in many different areas, not just in pastry arts. What space does artisanal gelato have in your creations? Artisanal gelato, including savoury versions, has ample space in what is my idea of pastry arts. Playing with temperatures and textures, while being attentive to the seasonality of the ingredients, make the sensorial experience of tasting it even more intense and pleasant. Based on the preparations, I pair the type of gelato, which has become an important component in desserts thanks to the contrast between hot and cold. This contrast is interesting for the palate and requires careful studying of how to balance the ingredients. Would you like to deepen your study of artisanal gelato? Can this “cold dessert” conquer more space in foodservice pastry arts? In the months leading up to the Pastry Queen Championship, I was lucky enough to get closer to the world of artisanal gelato with my coach Eugenio Morrone, World Champion of Gelato 2020. I discovered new techniques, balancing and theories on coldness, that encouraged me to study this fascinating world in even more detail. “Cold desserts”, that is, granita, sorbets and gelato, occupy a large space in the foodservice world even during the winter months. Italian-style, artisanal and high-quality gelato is fundamental, bothwhen served alone or when used to complete a dessert. 21
RECIPES SWEET PROPORTIONS By Ilaria Castellaneta 22
The Vitruvian man is one of Leonardo’s most famous drawings and represents the study of human proportions. The ideal proportions of the human body are inscribed in the two perfect figures: the circle, which symbolizes Heaven, divine perfection, and the square, which symbolizes the Earth. This dessert, round on the outside and squared on the inside, represents a proportion made dessert and combines aesthetics with taste. COMPOSITION • Mascarpone Mousse, Vanilla • Italian Meringue • Gianduja Cremeux • Crème Anglaise • Citrus Cremeux • Raspberry Gel • Crunchy • Milk Chocolate Biscuit MASCARPONE MOUSSE, VANILLA INGREDIENTS • mascarpone 500 g • cream 500 g • Italian meringue 320 g • powdered jelly 12 g • cold water for jelly 60 g • vanilla pod 1 INSTRUCTIONS Whip the cream and the pulp of a vanilla pod together with mascarpone. Rehydrate and dissolve the gelatin. Dilute the gelatin with a little of the whipped mixture and add it to the mass again. Add the meringue to the mascarpone mixture, dress in the mould. ITALIAN MERINGUE INGREDIENTS • egg white 110 g • dextrose 35 g • sugar 185 g • water 50 g INSTRUCTIONS Bring the water and sugar to 121°C and pour slowly over the egg whites which are being whipped with the dextrose in the planetary mixer. Whip until cool. Hydrate the gelatin, whip the mascarpone with the cream and vanilla, add the melted gelatin diluted with a little of meringue, add the meringue mixing with a spatula. GIANDUJA CREMEUX INGREDIENTS • crème anglaise 250 g • gianduja 225 g INSTRUCTIONS Pour the crème anglaise over the chopped chocolate and emulsify. Aesthetics and taste come together in an admirable balance, just like the circle and square in which Leonardo’s Vitruvian man is inscribed.With this cake, Ilaria Castellaneta triumphed at the 2023 Pastry QueenWorld Championship. 23
RECIPES Image by Peppe Snake 24
CRÈME ANGLAISE INGREDIENTS • fresh cream 35% 125 g • whole milk 125 g • egg yolks 50 g • sugar 25 g • granular gelatin 2,5 g • hydration water 12,5 g INSTRUCTIONS Bring milk and cream to the boil. Mix the egg yolks without whipping them, pour the hot liquid onto the egg yolks and mix. Bring to 82°C, stirring constantly with the help of a maryse, making a figure of 8 and avoiding incorporating air. Remove from heat and add the hydrated gelatin melted in the microwave, pass the cream through a sieve. CITRUS CREMEUX INGREDIENTS • lemon juice 115 g • yuzu 40 g • sugar 15 g • eggs 180 g • gelatin mass 18 g • white chocolate 130 g • butter 35 g INSTRUCTIONS Bring the eggs to the heat with the lemon juice and the sugar at 85°C. Add the gelatin mass and pour over the white chocolate and the butter, below 30°C add the yuzu, put in the mould and cool. RASPBERRY GEL INGREDIENTS • raspberry purée 115 g • lemon purée 5 g • sugar 12 g • dextrose 12 g • gel mass 18 g INSTRUCTIONS Heat the fruit puree with the sugars up to 40°C and add the gelatine mass previously melted. CRUNCHY INGREDIENTS • Paillettes 540 g • Muscovado sugar 75 g • powdered glucose syrup 55 g • sweet almond paste 40 g • melted Dulcey chocolate 200 g • peanut oil 160 g INSTRUCTIONS Melt the couverture at 45°C and add the oil and almond paste. Matching sugars and mixing well. Finally add the shortbread grain. Spread a very thin layer, place the biscuit on it and chill everything in positive. MILK CHOCOLATE BISCUIT INGREDIENTS • butter 375 g • sugar 375 g • egg mixture 525 g • milk chocolate 300 g • flour 210 g • almond powder 270 g INSTRUCTIONS Whip the butter cream with the sugar, add the egg mixture and melted chocolate and whip again. Add the mixed powders and roll out on a baking sheet. Bake at 160°C for 13 minutes. 25
FAIRS TOUR SIRHA LYON Lyon (France), 19 - 23 January Sirha Lyon always has a certain appeal on those who, like us, are interested in previewing the trends of the international foodservice world. And the 21st edition of the tradeshow confirmed its key role in a distinctly global context. The theme of ecology and sustainable technological developments was at the centre of the exhibition, acting as a common thread to the great challenges in the hotel, restaurant and food inA chronicle of the trade fairs visited by puntoItaly during its travels abroad. A first-hand reportage of meetings, emotions, and experiences. puntoItaly wire dustries in all their facets. “Sirha Lyon 2023 proved more than ever its ability to mobilize international buyers and a highly qualified visitor base, where over 50% has the power to make decisions” declared Luc Dubanchet, director of the Sirha Food Division and director of Sirha Lyon. “The quality of the offer from the 4,700 brands present – in particular by adopting a sustainable approach – corresponds to the innovative nature of this global trade fair of foodservice, catering and food”. 26
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FAIRS TOUR Buyers and chefs made this show overflow with vitality, both in the exhibition halls as well as during the intense culinary competitions. The Grand Finale of the Pastry World Cup 2023 crowned Japan as the winner, which presented original and impressive creations with climate change as the theme. The Bocuse d’Or awarded the Danish Brian Mark Hansen, placing Denmark on the highest step of the podium for the third time. The next edition of Sirha Lyon is scheduled for January 23-27, 2025. SIGEP Rimini (Italy), 21 - 25 January When on January 21 we crossed the turnstiles of Sigep, we could not hide our emotions. This year’s show was the first show organized once again with its traditional format, after the restrictions caused by the pandemic. So here we are wandering around the Rimini convention centre which registered a more-thandeserved sold-out: there were more than one 28
thousand companies present from 34 countries, spread out over 28 pavilions, with an exhibiting surface of 130 thousand square meters. And walking down the aisles, you could feel yourself once again in a vast international environment thanks to the multitude of visitors which, according to the organizers of the event IEG - Italian Exhibition Group, came from 155 countries. “Sigep has returned to its ideal timing – specified the IEG President Lorenzo Cagnoni during the opening ceremony – after two difficult years for the out-of-home consumption. And yet, as the data confirms, Italian sweets have recovered well and are even growing”. Among the booths, you could feel the exhibitors’ enthusiasm to finally show “in person” their new developments from the last two years in the gelato, pastry, chocolate, coffee and bakery industries (this last one was strengthened thanks to the simultaneous AB Tech Expo). Many of these new developments denote an increasingly growing attention to protecting the environment. Shows and competitions animated the six Arenas, with over a thousand events. In the meantime, we have already marked our calendars with the next edition’s dates: January 20-24, in Rimini as always. 29
FAIRS TOUR EXPO SWEET Warsaw (Poland), 28 February - 1 March The days of the past edition of this Polish exhibition were really intense. Over 25 thousand visitors crowded the booths of some of the most important European companies for pastry, gelato, bakery and HoReCa, with the exhibiting landscape consisting of raw ingredients, equipment and solutions for cutting-edge point of sales. This exhibiting moment was the backdrop for four prestigious competitions: Ice Cream Championship of Poland, Championship of Poland in Dessert Preparation, the Polish Championship of Students of Confectionery Schools and the Confectionery Decoration Competition. During the Ice Cream Championship of Poland awards, first place was won by the “Patisserie Marek Moskwa/Lody Szypuła 1974” team, who is thus preparing to compete at the “Gelato World Cup” World Championship scheduled for Sigep Rimini 2024. It was also possible to witness the creation of authentic masterpieces made by the champions Renata Martyna and Angelika Chwyć, who will represent Poland at “Cake Designers World Championship 2023” in Milan. During all the days of the fair, a special area was set up with a record number of confectionery products: more than 100 pieces in six categories. The organizers of Expo Sweet are already preparing the next edition, scheduled for February 25-28, 2024, which promises to be even bigger and richer. 30
LEVANTE PROF Bari (Italy), 12 - 15 March Bari is a fascinating city in every season, with its maze of intricate streets that unfold in the historic centre. And the exhibition, organized every two years by DMP in the pavilions of the Fiera del Levante, represents an appealing “call” for specialized visitors that come from the other side of the Adriatic Sea: Balkan States, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia. In addition to these, a large group of professionals from Bulgaria also attend. The 2023 edition registered an over 30 percent increase in attendance from visitors. With nearly 200 booths that occupied 20 thousand square meters, there were over 400 specialized exhibitors of the foodservice, pastry and hospitality industries as well as the entire supply chain of the bakery industry. The events programme of conferences, workshops and competitions was particularly rich, including the “Divina Colomba”, which awards the best artisanal Easter colombas of Italy, the “puntoIT” trophy dedicated to Italian artisanal gelato, and the cocktail competition for the most original and balanced mixed drink. “Having returned to the traditional dates in Bari - commented Ezio Amendola, President of Levante Prof - and the thirty years of experience in organizing exhibitions and developing and managing business relationships with leading companies in the world of agri-food, have contributed to the success of the exhibition. With the same determination, we are already working on the ninth edition, which will take place in March 2025”. 31
TESTIMONIALS A passion for math, a degree in chemistry, a strong interest in innovation: these are Barbara Bettera’s winning ingredients. Twice she has earned the highest spot on the podium of the Coppa d’Oro competition at Mig Longarone. The formula 32
The educational path is always something that leaves a significant mark on one’s life. Then you can choose whether to continue to cultivate your passions or if you prefer to change your way. Barbara Bettera, an emerging talent in the artisanal gelato world, was able to accomplish both. After graduating from the scientific high school and obtaining her degree in chemistry and pharmaceutical technologies, she started her professional career first in her family’s café, then in a pharmacy. In April 2013, a turning point: she opened her gelato shop “Il Gelato di Barbara” in Rivolta d’Adda, in the province of Cremona (Italy). And here, her familiarity with numbers and her profound knowledge of chemical formulas prove to be valid allies. Everything is mixed with a clever dose of lively curiosity regarding what it is new in the food world. Success didn’t take long. In ten years of business, Barbara put her consolidated knowledge to good use, and her shop has become a real point of reference for the Cremona area. In 2019 and in 2022, she achieved the Coppa d’Oro award promoted by Mig - Mostra Internazionale del Gelato in Longarone (Belluno, Italy). This double victory was accomplished also thanks to her use of innovative ingredients, obtaining original recipes for the hazelnut and malaga flavours (which were the “themes” of the two editions). Today, she is the only professional who has reached the top step of the podium in this prestigious interna- for success tional competition twice. Among other awards achieved by Barbara, in 2013, she won second place in the Carlo Pozzi competition organized by Sigep Rimini. She also earned the coveted “cones” from Gambero Rosso (one in 2018 - 2019 and two since 2020). Since 2016, her shop is listed among the 100 best Gelato shops of Italy in the Il Golosario guide. For some years now, Barbara has also been instructing intense training for gelato makers, with basic and advanced courses. 33
TESTIMONIALS Sensorial laboratory The lab created by Barbara is a true centre of ideas and creativity. The objective is to keep the great tradition of artisanal gelato alive, renewing it with exclusive proposals. It is the result of continuous research and experimentation. The offer ranges from gelato to semifreddoes and includes spumoni. It is Barbara herself who organizes the production processes, manages orders and receives goods. Her job goes even further: management and training of personnel, sales assistant, head of marketing and communications of the point of sales, head of HACCP protocols and security… The aspect that has always distinguished her offer is its high level of customization. In her gelato, she uses a milk base formulated by her and that allows her to make unique creations. Among her most recent specialities, the intriguing Cremoso with calendula flowers and notes of passion fruit is highly requested. It is an original pairing that brings out the aromatic notes of its elegant ingredients. Barbara has also formulated a personalized recipe for a cold fruit base, and she has developed a program that automatically calculates the recipes for sorbets and alcoholic sorbets: all you have to do is insert the desired parameters and the final recipe is automatically drawn up, which is perfectly balanced. An example? The refreshing fennel sorbet, which brings out the sensorial notes of this delicate gift from Mother Nature. Interest in the constant evolution of the market led Barbara to study and search for more innovative ingredients, such as fibres, proteins, fats and new generation thickeners. And drawing from the plant-based world, she has developed a custom vegan base, Las Vegan, which can be used to produce all water-based gelatos (which can be used both with a fat-based flavour paste or with a sugar-based one). This offering aroused considerable interest among clients, so much so that there was an 20% annual increase in sales of vegan gelatos. Barbara’s attention to consumers’ emerging requests for healthy options encouraged her to produce a line of gelatos with no added sugars: it only contains the sugars naturally present in the milk and fresh fruit that are used in the preparation. The result of several years of study and research, the line reveals an important strength: it maintains the typical creaminess and flavour of traditional gelato. Today it is available in fiordilatte, chocolate, custard and coffee, and they are all high in fibre. They are perfect for those who want to limit the caloric intake in their diet, for those who follow a keto diet or for those who need to reduce their glycaemic levels. 34
PINEAPPLE, APPLE, LEMON AND TURMERIC for the syrup INGREDIENTS • water 257,5 g • sucrose 170 g • dextrose 25 g • dry glucose 29de 18 g • inulin 23 g • neutro fruit stabilizer 5 g • ground turmeric 1,5 g INSTRUCTIONS Weigh the dry ingredients and mix carefully. Add them to the water and heat to 85°C. Let cool completely. for the fruit INGREDIENTS • yellow apple extract (or centrifugal juice) 200 g • fresh pineapple extract (or centrifugal juice) 300 g Suggestion: to prevent oxidation of the apple juice during extraction, add 1 g of citric acid or 30 g of lemon juice directly into the pitcher where the juice will be extracted. INSTRUCTIONS When the syrup is thoroughly cooled, add the centrifugal juices and the zest of 1 lemon, mix well then batch freeze. This recipe creates a mix with about 30 brix, for an approximate serving temperature of -12,5°C. A party... for charity In April this year, Barbara celebrated the first ten years of her business with the “Gelato Champions in celebration” initiative. The event was animated by six gelato maestros who have won the Coppa d’Oro competition over the past few years, just like Barbara did: Giuseppe Zerbato, Roberto Galligani, Andrea Cabano, Curzio Baraggi, Genti Ashiku and from Utrecht (in the Netherlands) Roberto Coletti. And so, exclusive original flavours were made, and a free tasting was offered to all the participants. Francesco Falasconi also spoke, as he was one of the members of the Gelato World Cup 2012 winning team: he was entrusted with the task of making a series of ice sculptures that left the public… in awe. But that’s not all. The event also had a charitable purpose: it was an opportunity to raise funds for Rivolta d’Adda’s preschool, which will be used to carry out many projects for young children. Another “winning formula” developed by Barbara! 35
EVENTS By Federica Serva Creativity on stage Milano DesignWeek has returned to being the most sought-after stage that combines locations and events in the spirit of the project. Università Statale - Image by F.S. 36
If there is one “magical” week in Milan where the city completely changes its atmosphere, it is the one when Salone del Mobile.Milano and Fuorisalone take place, the most famous Design Week in the world. This year, it took place in April following its traditional scheduling from before the pandemic. The success of the fair at Rho was undoubtedly remarkable, as it involved over 2 thousand exhibiting brands and attracted over 307 thousand visitors (+15%). The Fuorisalone was also undoubtedly successful (the simultaneous events spread throughout the city), with over 900 events listed online at Fuorisalone.it. Between Palazzos and courtyards Born in the Via Tortona district, Fuorisalone has expanded to include other neighbourhoods and streets, transforming Milan into a “magical” maze where you can rediscover the beauty of historic buildings such as Palazzo Litta, Palazzo Serbelloni, Palazzo Visconti and the Circolo Filologico Milanese. It is a perfect opportunity to be impressed by the charm of forgotten places, such as the deconsecrated church of Saint Victor and 40 Martyrs, which hosted the designers selected by the Galerie Philia with the theme of desacralization. You can be surrounded by nature at the Botanical Gardens of Brera and at the courtyards of the University, or you can visit showrooms in a different backdrop, like the one that you could feel at Spazio Lenovo, where technology was accompanied by suggestive piano music and the precious craftsmanship of Riva Mobili d’Arte, which covered the outside of the instrument and displayed a sumptuous dining table. Ultimately, it is possible to explore places that are usually inaccessible, such as the Marchiondi Spagliardi Institute or the former slaughterhouse of Porta Vittoria. Riva Mobili d’Arte - Image by F.S. Installation by Galerie Philia - Image by F.S. 37
EVENTS Underground atmosphere The last of the aforementioned locations was very popular since it was the site of the Alcova exhibition, which united over 90 designers and institutions, committed to shaping contemporary design culture through innovative practices concerning living environments, products, systems, materials and technological innovation. Among them, Ciam, who created an installation based on the new gelato pozzetti, Circle, arranged on a long panel suspended in darkness. It was curated by Art Director Fabrizio Milesi, who played with contrasts such as off/on, light/dark, noise/silence to engage the visitors’ senses and bring out the sensations of freshness and radiance associated with gelato. From the lathe to the table Among the historic buildings, Palazzo Borromeo d’Adda with its neoclassical façade and the beautiful inner courtyard may seem at first glance an unlikely place for an exhibition dedicated to the industrial use of metal. Instead, it turned out to be the perfect location for the “Art Metallica” exhibition by Alessi, which presented four projects carried out with some of its most important collaborators. One was “Il Tornitore Matto” (The Mad Turner), which focused on objects that recall the function of containers, including bowls, vases, shelves and glasses. Installation by Ciam Installation by Alessi 38
Special flavours Gelato was the protagonist in two other events, which united fashion and furnishings. In the luxurious Stella McCartney boutique four special flavours were offered, inspired by the stylist’s summer collection built around the concept of “Change The History”. The same slogan was on the cart from which the gelato was served: kiwi sorbet, strawberry sorbet, turmeric cream with a walnut and chocolate crumble, and a savoury fiordilatte with blue stracciatella. In the unusual “cabinet de curiosités” shop Raw & Co, Lavoratti 1938 chose to present its latest creation: pralines and bars of chocolate filled with artisanal gelato made with high-quality ingredients, such as the Favetta di Terracina strawberry and the Tonda di Giffoni hazelnut. Lavoratti’s bar chocolate Installation by Stella McCartney - Image by F.S. 39
EVENTS Explosion of colours Along the streets of Brera, where the most artistic and fascinating soul of Milan is hidden, Veuve Clicquot spread joy and optimism through colours with its presentation of “La Grande Dame 2015 X Paola Paronetto” at the La Grande Dame Gallery by Veuve Clicquot. The artist Paola Paronetto created for the Champagne house a collection of six coffrets for their new Cuvée, with a range of shades taken from a wide palette that express emotions and positivity. In front of the Gallery, the sculptural composition “Monumental Giants” was set up, consisting of three coloured metal bottles that represented the essence of the creations of Paola Paronetto and the metaphor of the verticality of Veuve Clicquot champagnes. Limited edition Exclusive glasses and cocktails were at the centre of the evenings at Dry Milano. A dedicated installation unveiled the limited edition “Strata” collection of glasses, the result of a Strega Design Collection project. The historic liqueur company Strega Alberti 1860 invited the designer Lucia Massari to design a glass that was inspired by the brand philosophy. Thus, a collection of cocktail glasses was created, each unique and numbered, handmade in Murano (Venice) by Fornace Mian. The establishment’s barman, Edris Al Malat, developed a dedicated cocktail made with Strega liquor paired with a fennel-infused gin, white vermouth, sugar and citric acid. Installation by Paola Paronetto for Veuve Clicquot - Image by Montuori Installation by Strega Design Collection 40
On the road to sustainability Even in the fashion district, there was the atmosphere of the Fuorisalone. In illy’s flagship store on via Montenapoleone, for example, the collaboration between the coffee roasting company and Kartell was celebrated in the name of circular economy with a spectacular installation. Lush plant islands welcomed the Re-Chair seats made with recycled coffee capsules as designed by Antonio Citterio, turning a waste item into an object of design. This was the first episode on the possible applications of recycling systems, which was continued by the Eleganza seat designed by Philippe Starck. Inspirational bottle Changing your point of view. That is what Campari Soda did with its new chapter of “Design Connection” entrusted to Qeeboo. The two brands presented an original collection of objects inspired by the iconic bottle designed by the futurist Fortunato Depero, such as the lamps Giraffe In Love and Sweet Brother Tom, the vase/wine chiller holder Turtle Carry Drinks, and the Rabbit chairs. Seemingly different objects found a common thread in the vibrant colours and the graphic designs of Campari Sode, mixing pop culture, wonder and art. Installation by Kartell and Illy Qeeboo Design Connection for Campari Soda 41
RECIPES SNACK By Silvia Federica Boldetti Images by Francesca Lazzarini - F2Studio 42
COMPOSITION • Whipped shortbread • Peanut paste • Cremino WHIPPED SHORTBREAD Ingredients • fresh butter 300 g • powdered cane sugar 110 g • almond powder 75 g • egg 75 g • weak flour 110 g • corn flour 75 g • starch 185 g • salted peanuts for decoration Instructions Whip butter with powdered cane sugar using the paddle attachment. Add eggs that are at room temperature. Add the dry ingredients and finish the dough. Place in silicon moulds, decorate with three peanuts and bake at 160°C for about 30 minutes. PEANUT PASTE Ingredients • salted peanuts 500 g • sunflower oil 80 g Instructions Blend peanuts with sunflower oil obtaining a paste. CREMINO Ingredients • milk chocolate 500 g • peanut paste 300 g • anhydrous butter 100 g • pailleté feuilletine 100 g • gold powder 4 g Instructions Melt chocolate at 45°C. Add anhydrous butter and blend well. Add peanut paste and temper mixture until it reaches 24°C. Add the pailleté feuilletine and pour mixture into the moulds where the shortbread has reached room temperature. Decorate with salted peanuts covered in gold powder. This shiny and inviting snack seems to be enchanted thanks to the subtle gold dust that covers the peanuts. It is a small delicacy that conceals a double contrast; the sweetness of the chocolate opposes the saltiness of the nuts, while the crispy shortbread merges with the softness of the cremino. 43
RECIPES 1. Place the whipped shortbread into moulds 2. Decorate with salted peanuts and bake at 160°C 3. Prepare the cremino by mixing the ingredients 44
7. Remove from moulds and present the snacks 4. Pour cremino into the moulds on top of the shortbread 5. Level the cremino by moving the mould 6. Decorate with salted peanuts covered in gold powder 45
Claudio Ceroni and Paolo Marchi EVENTS by Federica Serva – images by Brambilla-Serrani The spotlight on change 46
“Ladies and gentlemen, the revolution is served”. This was the theme of Identità Milano 2023, international conference of gourmet cuisine, pastry, mixology and dining room service, held this past January at MiCo Milan Convention Centre. It was focused on the changes going on in the foodservice industry with an international vision thanks to the return of prestigious foreign chefs. Eighteen years ago, during the first edition in 2005, Ferran Adrià participated. This year, his brother Albert Adrià presented together with a lineup of exceptional chefs such as Alex Atala, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Leonor and Laura Espinosa, Paco Morales. The eighteenth edition of Identità Milano focused on current events, bringing over 100 speakers on stage and opening new spaces for discussion. 47
Cristiano Tomei Marco Ambrosino EVENTS Renewed format Together with them, there were several protagonists of the Italian culinary scene, and many more. Alongside chefs of the calibre of Massimo Bottura, Carlo Cracco and Luca Sacchi, Antonia Klugmann, Moreno Cedroni and Luca Abbadir, Niko Romito, personalities from the entertainment and cultural world participated as guests of Golosi di Identità, a new format in collaboration with the Cotarella Foundation to promote studies for a healthy and balanced diet. There was a new session of Identità South America, an extraordinary food and wine journey into the heart of the southern hemisphere. It was also a novelty to have hosted the Italian finals of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy, won by Michele Antonelli. The idea of the organizers Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni is to make Identità Milano a “home” for other events that can be integrated into the general program. The versatility of pasta From year to year, Identità di Pasta, a pillar of the convention, has encompassed many different formats: long and cut, dry and fresh, orthodox and creative. Pasta, in fact, is not a single product devoid of nuances, but rather a versatile ingredient with different shapes and uses. Thanks to the experimentation of “courageous” chefs, the importance of dry pasta in restaurants in Italy has increased enormously, leaving its traditional territories (Campania, Puglia, Sicily) to expand into all regions and to become the subject of interpretations, not just a simple base to be dressed. Marco Ambrosino did just that by thinking about pasta as a material to be processed, obtaining a sauce made from the fermentation of pasta, with which he dressed the pasta itself, his “Pasta di conserva”. Cristiano Tomei, starting with the concept of “pasta asciutta”, he created a minestrone soup made only with soup, that is, different types of steamed pasta rehydrated with vegetable extracts. 48
The plant-based trend From edition to edition, Identità Milano has given space to “natural cuisine”, in all its many facets. This concept has always been interpreted with varying nuances. In 2023, the focus was specifically on plant-based cuisine, one of the most dynamic frontiers in the contemporary world of gastronomy. During his debut at the convention, Antonio Chiodi Latini talked about the “cuisine of the past”, that is, the path taken in the past starting from plant-based cuisine, and the “cuisine of the present”, that is, how new techniques, suitable for plant-based foods, are giving results that are often surprising. Strengthened by the value of memory, Karime Lopez was inspired by “mole”, a dish from Mexico, her country of origin, recreating it with Italian ingredients and adding a feminine touch by decorating it with a butterfly. Creation by Antonio Chiodi Latini Creation by Karime Lopez 49
EVENTS Signature pizzas Pizza is one of the specialities that best represents the culinary culture of Italy. Starting with the first appearances of pizza chefs next to chefs on the stage at Identità Milano, it has moved on to an entire session dedicated to this dish. This session offered many ideas thanks to the work of famous maestros along with that of young rising talents. The undisputed maestro is Franco Pepe, who along with the obsessive care for flour blends, the leavening process and the dough, has added giving value to local products and the ability to communicate pizza beyond regional borders by making it a subject of dialogue between chefs. His sweet pizza is innovative, made with a bufala mozzarella cheesecake base, Riccio tomato preserves, and a basil and olive oil reduction. The creations of Giacomo Devoto (chef) and Gianmarco Ferrandi (expert of leavening) are also innovative, as they work in the gourmet world by uniting the long and meticulous work of preparing doughs with the pairing of refined and sophisticated toppings. Creation by Franco Pepe Giacomo Devoto and Gianmarco Ferrandi 50
Room for dessert Gelato and Desserts did not miss out on Identità Milano 2023. “Identità di Gelato” has earned its dedicated space thanks to talking about the evolution of the “cold dessert”, moving from the display case in a shop to an item on the restaurant menu. This year offered three completely different visions: the tasting and research flight with Paolo Brunelli with raspberry sorbet; the journey into olfactive memories with Stefano Guizzetti, by creating a composition with aromas of the land. He transposed the Japanese kakigori dessert into a dish with deer tartar and vegetables from Paolo Griffa’s garden. After the professional pastry and restaurant dessert sessions, Identità Milano proposed a new session of Identità Dolce with two big personality protagonists: Marco Pedron and Luca Montersino. The first is a Pastry thinker and the second a contemporary chef as they love to define themselves. They talked about their choices in life and experimentation with ingredients and techniques. Creation by Paolo Brunelli Creation by Marco Pedron 51
RECIPES VEGAN CAKE By Lorenza Rizzi Pasticceria La Circe Bio - San Felice Circeo (Latina, Italy) 52
INGREDIENTS: • flour 260 g • organic coconut blossom sugar 130 g • grape sugar 50 g • dark chocolate 70 g • raw cocoa powder 30 g • organic soy or oat milk 250 g • sunflower oil 90 g • powder leavening agent 16 g • chopped hazelnuts 100 g • vanilla bean 1 INSTRUCTIONS Combine flour, cocoa powder and leavening agent. Add vanilla seeds to milk. In the meantime, melt the dark chocolate in the microwave. Add sugar, oil, grape sugar and salt to the stand mixer; mix with the paddle attachment at medium speed for ten minutes. While the mixer is still mixing, slowly pour in the soy or oat milk at room temperature, then add the melted chocolate and keep mixing for another three minutes. Then gradually add the flour in three parts. Lastly, add the chopped hazelnuts and mix quickly. Pour the mixture into a mould with a 20/22 cm diameter. Bake at 175°C in a non-ventilated oven for 30/35 minutes. This cake will win you over with its extreme simplicity and for its flavours that will take you back. Organic and high-quality ingredients have been chosen, such as PGI hazelnuts from the Langhe area and coconut blossom sugar. Its genuine flavour can be brought out when accompanied with an apricot jam or coconut whipped cream. 53
EVENTS Pallini, a historic Italian distillery, has launched a challenge with a focus on women. At the past Bar Show 2023, a prestigious industry event held in Rome during last May, the company staged the project “Women Do it better. Or Not? Shake it up with Pallini to find the answer”. This is the new leitmotif of this entrepreneurial business managed predominantly by women (it is guided by Micaela Pallini, member of the family’s fifth generation). The initiative’s objective is to create an informal gathering space where good drinks merge with the possibility to express female creativity and the art of innovation in the cocktail industry. Women and mixology are two sparkling ingredients that, when united in harmonious agreement, reveal the ability to create true magic behind the bar, and much more. Also in the beverage industry, the search for greater balance and exchange on par with recent times is bringing ideas and practices characterized by a high level of innovation. In this project, Pallini has involved the bartenders of ShakHer, a group of female bar professionals born in 2019 from an idea of Roberta Martino together with some of her colleagues. It is a valuable partnership of two realms that share the same passions and ideals with the intention to put them into practice in the spirits and mixology industry, as could be seen firsthand at Pallini’s booth during Bar Show. The preview The day before the start of the Bar Show, at the Roman cocktail bar Drink Kong (which rightfully finds itself in the prestigious ranking of the World’s 50 Best Bars) the numerous participants were able to enjoy a special drink list prepared by Pallini, made with No.3 London Dry Gin, a spirit artfully made after two years of research. This journey of taste was led by three barwomen: Martina Proietti, Brand Ambassador of No.3 Gin, Gulia Cuccurullo and Kyriaki Dachtyloudi, respectively Bar Manager and Bartender of London’s Artesian Bar. Ladies of mixology Women and cocktails: two words that are growingly more common behind the bar. Pallini, a historic Italian distillery, has developed an entirely female project. 54
SPRING BREAK by Martina Proietti, Brand Ambassador of Pallini No.3 Gin • Pallini No.3 London Dry Gin • Spring Cordial • Lime and lavender foam Spring Cordial is a preparation that is obtained by working the following ingredients at room temperature: asparagus, basil, rice vinegar, sugar, and a mixture of citric acid, malic acid and water. This mixture, when combined with No.3 London Dry Gin, brings to life a drink with soft and botanical aromas that are balanced with the more acidic lime and lavender foam. Food pairing Spinach dumplings with Parmigiano Reggiano foam ELOTE by Giulia Cuccurullo, Bar Manager of the Artesian Bar in London • Pallini No.3 London Dry Gin • Nixta • Ancho Reyes Verde • Coffee powder • Soy Yoghurt • Asahi Beer For the realization of this drink, all the ingredients, except Asahi Beer, are well blended then centrifuged in a special machine for about 40 minutes. This process causes the aromas of the ingredients to be released inside the drink, but the solid part of the coffee powder and soy yoghurt are separated, leaving a clear liquid. Food pairing Spring rolls (Vietnamese style) with mixed raw vegetables and sweet chili sauce Martina Proietti, Brand Ambassador of Pallini No.3 Gin Gulia Cuccurullo, Bar Manager of the Artesian Bar in London 55
EVENTS Land and water On opening day of the Bar Show, the Pallini stand welcomed female guests to offer exclusive signature drinks. In the evening, at the Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel, an event was set up starring two gins that have made sustainability and environmental awareness part of their DNA: Aquamaris and Procera, respectively a gin made with sea water which preserves its unaltered properties (thanks to the presence of over 60 minerals) and the first premium artisanal gin from Kenya, made with ten African botanicals carefully selected from the territory. Sicily and Africa, water and land come together to bring to life a sensorial experience that has its roots in the careREISHI NEGRONI by Kyriaki Dachtyloudi, Bartender of the Artesian Bar in London • Pallini No.3 London Dry Gin • Red Vermouth • Bitter • Pink peppercorn • Reishi mushrooms • Chocolate milk The preparation of this cocktail involves two important steps: a sous-vide cooking at low temperature of reishi mushrooms and pink pepper in a mix of red vermouth and bitters, to which No.3 London Dry Gin is added. Subsequently, the mixture undergoes a milk washing technique with chocolate milk which, thanks to the help of time (about two hours) and a coffee filter, gives the cocktail a bright colour and a smooth flavour. Food pairing Chicken Tacos, lettuce, celery and Ranch Sauce Kyriaki Dachtyloudi, Bartender of the Artesian Bar in London 56
ful choice of raw ingredients and in respect for the environment: both gins try to reduce wasting water and they promote sustainable production with local and when possible zero-km ingredients. The sensorial journey to discover the Aquamaris gin was entrusted to Giovanni Torre, the young owner and bar manager of Catania’s Circus Cocktail, as well as the Brand Ambassador of this Sicilian gin. Roberta Martino of ShakHer created original cocktails with Procera gin. Sensorial explorations The “Women Do it better. Or Not? Shake it up with Pallini to find the answer” project was born with the aim of bringing out female creativity in the mixology industry using products from Pallini’s portfolio. Martina Proietti and Roberta Martino, guests “behind the bar” for bars that participate in the initiative, create a series of engaging activities for customers with the goal to explore the flavours and the quality of the ingredients of their cocktails. The drinks can also be accompanied by a special food pairing. Roberta Martino, creator of ShakHer, a group of female bar professionals 57
RECIPES BOOZY POPSICLES By Alice Vignoli Images by Giancarlo Bononi The happy hour ritual takes on a unique spin with two sorbets on a stick with rum and refreshing ingredients. A creative version of the cocktails most loved around the world that will definitely surprise your clients. 58
Mojito MOJITO SORBET ON A STICK Ingredients Quantity (g) Sugars (g) Sugars (%) Lime juice 200 10,0 5% Water 519 0,0 0 Sucrose 196 196,0 100% Cold fruit base 50 50 40,0 80% White rum, three years old 35 14,0 40% Total 1000 260,0 26% You can substitute part of the sucrose with brown sugar, maintaining the same proportions. Other ingredients: mint leaves Instructions • Squeeze the limes until you have the amount of juice desired. • Add the zest of one lime to the juice. • Add the other ingredients – except the rum – to the juice, following the recipe proportions. Add mint leaves as desired to the mix. Let stand for a few minutes. • Add the rum and then start the aeration phase by using a powerful mixer to blend the mixture. • Use a confectionery funnel to quickly pour the mix into the steel moulds that have been precooled in the blast freezer for ice pops. • Insert the wooden sticks into the moulds using the stick holder. Allow to crystallize for about 30 minutes. • Once crystallization is complete, extract the mould and stick-holder assembly from the blast freezer and dip it into a tray of cold water to facilitate removal of the treats from the moulds. • Place the treats one by one on a tray covered with baking paper. • Place the sorbet on a stick in the display case for sale or store for later use. 59
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